LC1 Not working

[Atuca]

I have no idea why the WB is not working.

I have taken the following procedure when trying to set up my wideband.

I have an LC1.

White and blue hooked up to the same lug grounded.

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The black wire is hooked up with the test light on a seperate lug, grounded to the same point. (You can see my fingers where it grounds.)

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The red wire is hooked up to the white and black ignition power. It gets power when the key is turned to the "run" position, and is tapped right at the source as you can see.

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The brown output wire is wired into pin number 75 the rear o2 sensor. In the picture, you can see I have a voltage meter hooked up for varification.

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Here is the brown wire hooked up to the other side of the voltage meter. (Yellow wire is tapped up, not using it since default it is set for narrow band, and I want to use the default LC1 function in ECMlink v3 which is the brown wire if I am not mistaken 0v - 5v)

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and when it runs through the voltage meter, with the car idleing, it reads a constant 4.83v

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The actual sensor is hooked up to the "stock" rear o2 bung, since I am running a megan turbo back with cat delete, should yield the same results.

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I have no idea what I did wrong in the install, but even when I set the LM Programmer to out put 2.5, it seems to not actualy program when I click the "program" button.

Here is verification it is set for gasoline 14.7

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Here is after I set it to display 2.5 no matter what.

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The voltage meter still shows the same output. I took this same devie back to FFtech and they said they tuned a car with it and gave it back to me. I had the results as shown above with pics. So I was told I could use the serial output to see what the LC1 was finding as far as afr. When I use "Logworks 3" and connect to the LC1, it shows me afr at 32 when idling, and does actually vary between 20 and 40 when I rev the engine.

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So I did the best I could to document what I did, have done, and where I am now. The last thing i noticed is the program is called "LM Programmer" and some of the functions say "program the LM device with blah blah" when I have an LC1. Is there a seperate program called "LC programmer"? Maybe that is what is wrong. This is the first of many things to get my car running properly again, but hopefully someone can help me with this.

 

[snowborder714]

What version of LM Programmer are you using? The one that came with my LC-1 did not function. I could change the wideband range as much as I want, yet when I went back in to make sure the settings where the same, they'd reset themselves. The version I received was 3.19. I called Innovate and they knew this version had problems so they sent me 3.15. Let me know if you want this version since it works for me and many others on here and the link forums that I've sent it to.

 

[Atuca]

Please sir. I am running 3.19 as well it appears.

[email protected]

(my dsmtuner email was used only to register, no longer use it.)

Thanks in advance, and if it works, there needs to be somewhere that states we need to use 3.15, because I havn't heard version conflicts anywhere on any forum and I been everywhere.

 

[snowborder714]

E-mails sent.

You obviously haven't searched the link forums hard enough Go search for v3.15 and there should be 3 threads that I mention it in. Let us know if this helps!

 

[Atuca]

Well go figure 3.19 doesn't work, and 3.15 did. I wish it was made more appearent somewhere that the version it ships with does not work. I suggest on the dsmlink forums they update the LC1 install walk through with some info on the 3.19 problem.

I found that no matter what I mapped the brown wire, analog 2, voltage wise, it did not change from the 4.82 or w/e I previously stated. I assume it is broke.

The Yellow wire was able to be mapped to whatever I wanted and changed, and is now the wire I am using through my voltage meter.




The number varies a bit when reving and set to 0v .5 lambda and 5v 1.5 lambda. However in ECMlink, it is being read at a steady 7.8:1 AFR.

I assume it is just some configuration setting I have wrong, but I am going to try and set it to the TechEdge as it seems to be what is more accurate anyways.

I'll let you know how that turns out.

 

[Atuca]

Alright set it to the TechEdge voltages and it seems to "kinda" work.

My car idles at the max voltage, which by dsmlink is 19:1

anytime I am off the throttle, it sits at 19:1



when I am on throttle, it acts similar to the estAFR which makes me think it is "kinda" working. Once I go full throttle, you can see the techEdge (which i renamed LC1) reads 10:1 to 12:1 til i come off the gas.

So I guess i need to adjust the idle to 14.7 afr unless it means I got a leak or something. However if there was a leak, wouldn't I be more rich? I really don't know.

Here are the logs, let me know what to do next!

 

[bling5tatus]

Update the firmware on your lc-1's controller.... that's the next step. (If you have not done so already)... yes, this is separate from the LMProgrammer software version.

 

[snowborder714]

I would not recommend doing this, especially as it should come with the latest firmware. This is one reason I'm on my 3rd LC-1 unit. I tried doing this (being the computer geek I am) and it failed 5% into the flash.

 

[bling5tatus]

Ha, what bad advise... and from a wiseman. You can check your firmware version with the lmprogrammer software. Check it, if it doesn't match the newest version (mine did not) then flash it. Don't be a chicken because someone else messed their flash up and it didn't work for them. They added this feature to their unit/software so that it can be used to improve the functionality of the product. Don't discount this at the expense of someone else's downfall.

 

[snowborder714]

I never said "Don't do this" but instead said I don't recommend it.

Did yours not work before you upgraded the firmware, but did work after?

 

[Atuca]

Well the longer and more fustrated I get the more I find out I wish I didn't get an LC1.

The LM Programmer is the most retarded program ever. It works sometimes but not always and I have to recheck things 3 times because it might fail inbetween. I spent a good 12 hours today working on exhaust leaks (among other maintance), and I still need more time tomorrow to fix the last of the two exhaust leaks I found. I think I can attribute these exhaust problems as the cause of the LC1 not reading 14.7 at idle.

I spent today trying to drill through the exhaust housing of my 16g to just get a bolt and washer ont he otherside to get rid of an exhaust leak between the exhaust manifold and turbo, i got a new exhaust manifold gasket and replaced some studs on the head, and now it appears the last two leaks is at the o2 housing to down pipe, and my down pipe to cat back has a tiny little leak.

I am HOPING, that fixing those leaks will get my a clean 14.7 reading, otherwise I will be back here asking for more help.


As far as firmware, what is the point of upgrading it? I really just want it to output my afr, and if i run the risk of breaking it I am scared to mess with it if all it is gonna do is look prettier. Is there a changelog of the newest firmware?

 

[bling5tatus]

I never said "Don't do this" but instead said I don't recommend it.

Did yours not work before you upgraded the firmware, but did work after?

Mine was giving me random "not working" issues.

I really don't understand why people are afraid to do things. It's misinformation or mistakes that others have made that really make it difficult to help people online.

Atuca - if I was physically there I would be telling you that you had better upgrade your firmware... THEN see if there's still a problem. Companies don't write better firmwares that do things like break your product on purpose. If this was the case they would patch it and move on. You can either attempt to fix your problem or be a chicken because someone recommended against using one of the built in functions of the product that you paid your money for... either way. Mine works now... and has served me well for 30k miles.

 

[ImportWarrior]

i downloaded the latest software , firmware update, with ZERO problems. performed the open air calibration. once set it is rock solid. running all summer with no problems.

 

[knochgoon24]

I finally got my LC-1 to start working. I ended up changing the fuel type to something other than gas, doing a new free air calibration, changing it back to gas, then a new free air calibration.

That's the instructions I was given by Innovate personnel when I filed for an RMA.

 

[bling5tatus]

but still no firmware update? shame on you.

 

[bling5tatus]

Any more discussing this we should probably keep to the LC-1 thread. But I do know that laptop is kept clean with antivirus, ad-aware, and spybot.

One good way to troubleshoot things in the IT world is to try it on a separate computer before flagging it as "not working".

BTW, many viruses are made to break your av software... and your adware stuff too. Use Internet Explorer much ? And even if your answer is no, you're still not safe. A properly configured hardware based firewall and router are the only way to REALLY be close to 100% protected and even then... that is not fool proof.

I still will not stand by two moderators that are saying that you should not flash to the newest firmware.

 

[turbosax2]

We tried 2 computers, neither worked. We use Firefox, not IE. Ok, so I may not be entirely protected, what's your point? (Edit: Actually, we were behind a firewall and router when we tried the update.) What if the OP is not entirely protected too? snowborder714 based his advice on his own real life experience, which was that the firmware update failed. If it worked for you, great, and I congratulate you. You offer your advice, I offer mine.

Is this really worth arguing any more?

 

[knochgoon24]

I updated my firmware, but that's not what fixed it.

I thought that the LC-1 was supposed to have a recovery mode build in where it can revert to a point where you can attempt to install the firmware again?

 

[bling5tatus]

We tried 2 computers, neither worked. We use Firefox, not IE. Ok, so I may not be entirely protected, what's your point? (Edit: Actually, we were behind a firewall and router when we tried the update.) What if the OP is not entirely protected too? snowborder714 based his advice on his own real life experience, which was that the firmware update failed. If it worked for you, great, and I congratulate you. You offer your advice, I offer mine.

Is this really worth arguing any more?

There was no argument other than it's bad advice to tell someone to not update their firmware....

You could, however, say something to the effect of, "try updating your firmware, but i will warn you that mine failed and i've been through 3 units because of this." I would have kept my mouth shut and not thought of your boy as a little noobish if the reply had not been so biased towards his experience. Remember, that what firmware you F$*# up doesn't affect anyone else's LC-1.

If you all couldn't get it to work, i'd say there's a problem between the chair and the keyboard.