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lc1/db gauge programming

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The MTX-L is a bit different - the yellow wire is the wideband signal wire. That's the one that needs split between the gauge and ECU.

He hooked up the brown wire per ecmlink knowledge base instructions. So he needs to disconnect the brown, and wire up the yellow instead?
 
I spoke with him this evening. He informed me that he was mistaken and actually hooked up the yellow wire, not the brown. He's not simulating a narrowband though so wondering if he needs to hook up the brown wire as well. Hmmm....
 
I saved a log of his. He's only getting 7.3 on the log and raw volts is 0, using the yellow wire. Just trying to figure out why that is. I know someone else having the same issue as well so trying to figure out what's up so I can help these guys out.
 

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I guess I'll have to ask.

He said he's 100% sure he hooked it up correctly, so I dunno.
 
I saved a log of his. He's only getting 7.3 on the log and raw volts is 0, using the yellow wire. Just trying to figure out why that is. I know someone else having the same issue as well so trying to figure out what's up so I can help these guys out.

IM having THIS SAME thing happen.

I rechecked all the wiring and using the MTX-L instructuons. When loggin my WB it only shows 7.3. No idea what to do.
 
I thought I had posted the resolution to this. The guy I was helping thought he had hooked it up properly but had it connected to the wrong wire. He's good to go now.
 
I thought I had posted the resolution to this. The guy I was helping thought he had hooked it up properly but had it connected to the wrong wire. He's good to go now.

I currently have my brown (narrowband sim) wire connected to the Front 02 spot. Works perfectly.

I have the Yellow (wide band output) wire connected to the rear 02 spot. I have told link to use the rear 02 reading as the wide band. All it reads is 7.3, while the gauge itself reads normal.

I've read the instructions a million times and this is what is said to be done.

:banghead:
 
Lm logger and use the other output. Shouldn't tap off of the ecu wire, per my tuner. I had a few problems with LMProgrammer and the adaptor that I got at radio shack but after loading the driver for the adaptor, LMProgrammer worked fine. I have done it both ways and now my LC2 gauge and the DSMLink read the same. Just chiming in.
 
Use LM Programmer only if you need to change output voltage. My tap on my LC2 didn't like working with my ECU so I just reprogrammed the other output to 0-5 volts, exacly simulating the first output and all is much better. Mine was not reading exact so my tuner said take any tap off of the ECU feed wire since the guage might be pulling a little of the signal off of that input before the ECU saw it. Now everything is on the money. Just sayin, its there for you to use if you need to. Get the right driver for the cable adaptor(your computer will search the web for a good driver) and LM Programmer works, but thats all I needed it for, the rest is taken care of by DSMLink V3 full. Also, if the OP had his WB disconnected and at any time turned on the ignition, then the WB will need recalibrated. Happened to me accidentally and my WB would read 7.3 or 22.4 with hardly any readings in between. Did a free air calibration, reinstalled it and it works fine. Just my experience lately. Maybe just try a fresh free air calibration and see if that fixes it.
 
I currently have my brown (narrowband sim) wire connected to the Front 02 spot. Works perfectly.

I have the Yellow (wide band output) wire connected to the rear 02 spot. I have told link to use the rear 02 reading as the wide band. All it reads is 7.3, while the gauge itself reads normal.

I've read the instructions a million times and this is what is said to be done.

:banghead:

You're sure you connected it to the correct wire and that you have a solid connection?

Post a log.
 
You're sure you connected it to the correct wire and that you have a solid connection?

Post a log.

My latest log can be found in Post #4 in this thread. I did change a lot since re-watching all of the ECMlink videos.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/log...-small-cruise-logs-new-setup-new-dsmlink.html



I VERY positive. I have the Yellow wide band readout wire connected to the ECU pin for the rear O2. Ill pull the heat shrink off and redo the connection, just for gits and shiggles.

I will try re-calibrating it once I get home. Might be worth a shot.

I literally just sent my ECU/Cable out to ECMlink for a V3 full upgrade from V2 today.
 
Same thing guys.

V3 is showing nothing but a 7.3 afr while the gauge reads correct. I couldnt get narrowband to work. I tried narrowband simulation in V3 but that was working either. The car only idles/runs in open loop. Closed loop she leans out and stalls.

I did a free air calibration.
Re-wired everything.


Here's my game plan.
- Im going to put the front 02 back in the down pipe. I need to get closed loop to function and work.
- Im going to place the wideband in the rear 02 location, and wire it into the rear 02 pin.


Not sure what else to do.
 
Just wondering, but how are you making the connection? Soldered? And if it's tapped for the rear O2, is the wire either cut, or plug disconnected to the rear O2 at least?
 
Just wondering, but how are you making the connection? Soldered? And if it's tapped for the rear O2, is the wire either cut, or plug disconnected to the rear O2 at least?

All of my connections have the wires twisted together and then wrapped with heat shrink tubing, and shrunk.

The cut wires from the stock harness have the ends heat shrunk so they cannot contact anything.

Pin 76 (rear O2) - Yellow wire from the wideband
Pin 75 (front 02) - Brown Wire from the wideband - narrow band signal.

Narrow band signal would work fine before link and when I had V2, its the actual wideband signal I was initially having trouble with. Now it seems both are not working right while the gauge is reading fine since going to V3.

The wideband has MAYBE 300 miles on since new last year.
 
I will post a log this evening. My apologies, I got caught up last night.

I did however get the front stock 02 back in the car. She is running great! I have her tuned for idle and cruise. I ended up going back to MAF setup as SD was hard to figure out.

Currently trying to figure out the WB issue before any more tuning gets done.

I'm going to post on the link forums as well to see if anyone else has some insight.

Log will be uploaded tonight.
 
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