just landed my first 2g TSi

[ryboj]

New newbie here….

This past Friday, I just scored a clean and unmolested 96 TSi FWD. I finally let my secondary car go, a 5.0 (once blown) after owning it almost 10 years, for some new satisfaction, a Turbo Talon.

And yes, it’s a 5spd, original CA car, 30yr old girl owned it before, and serviced it regularly. So no teenage abuse here. Not one oil leak anywhere, turbo still spools nicely, even if it’s a T25.

I’m somewhat familiar with the mods of these cars from the past and what I’ve read in all the tech articles and FAQs, but will need a little assistance with mine, as to where to go for best possible customer satisfaction and fair pricing…..

My bro owned a 92 AWD Talon before getting stolen a few years back, with a massive FMIC, 16g, fuel controller, boost controller, ECU mod, 2.5” exhaust turbo back, 2g ported mani, 550 injects, MA hack, all gauges, I believe 1g BOV not vented, etc etc… at about 18-20psi. The car simply ripped and was enjoyable to drive.

Anyhow, I will be starting to purchase parts in the coming weeks. For now, just going over the basics, routine maintenance to make sure everything is in proper working order….

Going to be looking at checking/replacing the below first before mods:

1: Double checking the Timing belt/Balance shaft belt
2: Fuel filter
3: It has some new car quest wires, these need to come off
4: Replace plugs
5: Any hoses
6: Change over to Amsoil 10-30
7: Amsoil in tranny too
8: Check brake wear
9: Flush coolant
10: Etc etc… 02’s, knock, will wait

Then, I plan on following the FAQ’s for the most part and get this junk ordered up in the coming weeks….

1: Larger in-tank Walbro fuel pump (not sure if I’ll do the “rewire”? or not)
2: Likely a 1G BOV, or the equivalent (not vented to atoms)
3: Intake pipe and filter (don’t know which one though yet) don’t want any hacking, want bolt on
4: Boost/Inlet temp gauge
5: Boost controller, haven’t decided which one yet, or elec or manual, need to read more
6: Turbo timer

Then, looking into a turbo back exhaust in the coming months. I’m sure there are a gazillion options, so I will do plenty of research here. Prefer to do SS, straight through muffler design, no ricer tip, no serious exhaust drone or note, has to have cat since I’m in CA, and does not interfere with other stock parts. Don’t know if I’ll do 2.5 or 3…..

After the exhaust mods, I will look into a FMIC, but I may try and postpone this if possible. But if I need a FMIC before the turbo upgrade, I will have to do it. Not sure if my side mount can handle a bigger turbo or not. Need to read some more.

In the next 6-12 months, will do an injector upg, fuel controller, and turbo upgrade. From what I’m reading, looks like the BigEvoIII 16g might do the trick for me, as the T-25 will run out of steam quickly. My goal is to be at 300-325whp, reliably, safe boost levels, and remain completely functional and streetable as a daily driver.

Let me know guys if I’m on the right track…..

And just to confirm, I can only take my completely stock 2g setup to 15 or so psi safely on the T25, with an aftermarket BOV installed, right?

Thanks, Ryan

 

[punishercb]

Yeah, you have it pretty well covered bud. And yes, the T25 can push around 15 psi max. If you do all the inspections and maintainence you mentioned, you should be well covered. By the way, just be aware that there is a problem our 7 bolt motors are known for and it's called crankwalk. Now, DO NOT START FREAKING OUT. This is NOT as common as it sounds and i just wanted to make sure you were aware of it. Lot's of people freak out and at the slightest problem, and they assume it's cw. Anyways, you will probably want to change you SMIC to a FMIC becuase with around 300+ hp, I'm thinkin the SMIC will become heatsoaked. Also, before you start any major mods, be sure to install a boost guage. The stock guage is not accurate at all so it's nice to know how much pressure you're pushin in real numbers.

Good luck tuning
Chris

 

[ryboj]

Chris, thank you for the tips. Well covered. Yes, heard of the crankwalk, but haven't invested enough time to trully understand it. Will read.

Boost gauge asap....

Ok, so around 300whp the SMIC starts to heat up, got it. I wonder if my numbers will be anywhere near the 300 mark without the larger turbo/injects. It might be. Meaning I might have to do a FMIC sooner than later.

Again, appreciate the feedback. Looking forward to making this thing cherry, running tight and fast....

Ryan-

 

[JessesTalon]

You get 2 thumbs up for reading before posting.

Check out the DSM guide from this site, it will be pretty helpful in aiding you to get the max out of your puny lil t-25 and then show you how to get ready for more fun with bigger turbos

 

[ryboj]

Thanks man.... I noticed they took asking the same questions over and over again fairly seriously with a threat to ban...so I felt inclined to educate myself first....

I feel a little "small" at the moment with the "lil" T25 as you so called it. I don't know how long I can wait before I need bigger. I'm used to the power of my 5.0 which has varied from 220-380rwhp.

Hopefully I can be smart about the upgrades....

Oh, crankwalk s/b no issue. Higher mileage.

 

[ryboj]

Making some headway here folks.........

Installed this past weekend: Flushed out engine, and stuck in Amsoil 0-30 Severe Duty Synthetic oil & filter. Already noticing little signs of improvement across the board.

Ordered yesterday....

-1G BOV w/ adapter for 2g
-190lph FP (will likely hold off on re-wire)
-Boost Gauge
-A-Pillar pod
-SBR MBC
&
-Fuel filter

Next week, need to look into the following purchases:

-Some sort of motor mount replacement (driver side looks a little shady, but still ok)
-Replace car quest wires (not sure which brand I'll use)
-Check/Replace plugs (not sure which brand I'll use)

Also, trying to figure out all the confusion with UICP and intakes. Too many different choices/prices/ and configurations out there.

I need something that is smog legal in CA, and I want quality with no hassles on the install, a great fit and finish and compliant with a 1g BOV and the stock T-25. Any preferences?

Also, if I purchase UICP stuff now, does all that get tossed aside when I run a FMIC system or larger SMIC?

Questions questions...and believe me, I have been reading hundreads of threads throughout the last few weeks....

Thx guys, Ryan

 

[97TSIAWD]

Wires, check out either NGK or Magnecor 8.5mm wires. I have run them for more than 3 years, with no problems. Also, check out NGK bpr7s (or similar number, can't remember exactly also have the 6's available) and gap them to .28. As for motor mounts, a lot of aftermarket companies offer them. If your thinking of racing the fwd, I think your best bet is some sort of solid motor mount. I have heard some people complain of the effects on daily driving, but since you have already owned a Stang, I would assume that you would be less effected.

Damian

 

[ryboj]

Damian...thx for the feedback. I noticed those Magnecor's get used a lot on the really competitive cars out there... will check out for sure, along with a set of NGK's. I imagine don't run the platinum stuff right, just the typical standard plugs..?

I used energy suspension poly bla bla bla motor/tranny mounts on my older 89 stang. Liked them. I didn't run the solids because of it originally being a daily driver. The Talon too is a daily driver, and would prefer to keep it idling smooth.... Do most people run the energy ones, or other?

Right now trying to research the exhaust stuff, smog compliance, etc etc... again, more and more options...it's killing me. Wish this was a stang, I already know the good, the bad and ugly when modding those.... but a little bit of a learning curve with these cars as to what types of mods to choose from.....

 

[97TSIAWD]

Correct stay away from the Platinum plugs. The number I listed is pretty close to the actual part number, one variance is the 6's or 7's and one is a colder plug, but gapping them at .28 is going to help this. I believe that I run the 7's. As for the energy suspension, check out http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ they are in california and have years of experience with suspension modifications and can help you out a lot, even if you just call for information and not to order they will help you. As for exhaust, obviously your going to need a cat. Again, depends on if you want a 3" or 2.5" and what turbo you are thinking of eventually running. Talk to RRE for that also, they carry the N1 which is a very popular exhaust system.

 

[ryboj]

Got it...will check them out. I've been to their site before, just not with engine mounts in mind. And will also stay away from the platiums....

If an aftermarket exhaust will still let me pass smog visually (even with a cat), I'll likely go 3", even though I mentioned 2.5 above. Only because I don't want to upgrade twice, which seems to be a very valid point.

RRE seems pricey on most thing compared to other online vendors, and I will have to pay tax. It might be advantageous to use them for certain items they have a lot of experience with, but other high dollar items shop elsewhere, at least in my case...

Appreciate the help...

 

[94awdcoupe]

as far as wires go, i would just use factory OE wires. they seem to do the job quite nicely. also, recomment BPR7ES plugs gapped at .0032 for fuel economy.

 

[ryboj]

I'm pretty sure NGK plugs and factory are really close in price. The Magnecor 8.5mm wires are around 80ish..I think.. Don't want to blow so much cash on wires that I don't have enough for other things, but I won't be too skimpy, like the car quest wires I have....

Yes, .030 for 16psi and down, and .028 for 17+ psi boost. I read that on RRE....

 

[JessesTalon]

If I were you I would go to Road Race Engineering for everything, they are a quality shop with quality people and although it might be a little more expensive (I don't think they are by that much) It would be worth having them close by to trouble shoot anything that went wrong.

Most of the DSMtuners Online vendors are pretty good so search for a quality product or even try to get used parts of other Tuners that are upgrading...

 

[Attack Eagle]

I'll second the above, and even as a first time buyer when I bought all my assorted goodies from them I received a discount > than the shipping amount which made their prices very competitive with others... + the caliber of serviceI received from them so far outshines Any other company that I am a convinced customer for life.

I don't think ANY DP is Carb legal.
Asfar as filter its expensive but an FIPK is IMO the biggestand best filter out there. I switched up from a K&N round filter clone.

Some times yes the UICP you buy now gets replaced with a shorter piping once you get an FMIC... so just fet an UICP from someone like RRE or on a super budget Brode. Make sure the piping is dark and you probably won't have any problems, since it will be mostly hidden under the Fuse box anyway. As far as an intake... ou don't absolutely need it at your prospective power level, the one thing about them is fitment. Once you get rid of the air box the maf location varies wildly depending on the filter you run. For example with my FIPK setup there is no way I could get a *popular* intake tube to fit, it wanted the maf farther over than if could go with the filter on and mounted. It also is a "bling! check this car over " Warning light for visual inspections, and since I don't think any DP or UIP are carb certified you'd be shooting yourself in the foot.

I simply "hacked" the dump tube and moved on to other post turbo areas.

 

[ryboj]

Jesses…

Appreciate the feedback. I had a feeling their level of service was above par, because they spent so much time creating FAQ’s, and tech articles…that go into more detail than most shops are willing to do.

So far, from prior experience with my bro’s old talon, BR and SBR delivered excellent service, but I’m definitely willing to do some business with RRE, especially since they’re only 2 hours away (no traffic of cos). I take back what I said about their prices, there’s just a few items they seem to be quite high on, and then other prices are very competitive and fair. Hopefully I did not offend their business or pricing. I’m sure the extra bucks are worth it, and hopefully I’ll have a chance to experience that soon.

Attack: Service is VERY important to me, so like I said above, I’ll shell out a little extra to have that cushion or fuzzy feeling so to speak. Most of all, I depend on the level of experience they have and need to know the do’s and dont’s of these types of mods. I can only gain so much from these forums, and not everything on this forum is factual, a lot of it is just what they read on another post, with no real life experience to back it up. So, maybe RRE can offer up a little assistance where need be.

Yeah, the K&N filter is $120 or so, and then the intake piping and couplers are $120 from extreme, but at least I will have a CARB number on the filter, where no other companies have them. Any piping I do will be BLACK, definitely! Thank you for the notice about the varying placement of the MAF with regards the intake choice. Makes sense. I think the extremepsi one is a replica of the Injen one, so hopefully it will be compliant with the K&N filter and be ok, unless someone else sends me in another direction. Maybe I’ll just get the K&N filter and hold on the Intake since I’m not making any huge numbers right now…. So, definitely no BLING BLING…I want a stealth car…. I’m actually trying to justify/rationalize a large SMIC to avoid being noticed on the street. Too many cars get stolen, and since my bros talon was stolen, it makes me nervous with too much bling (incl a large FMIC), so I want a stock looking car that hauls balls…

Appreciate the guidance guys…
Ryan

 

[biglady112]

I would go with stock wires or NGK. The magnacores are nice though. I made 450awhp with them. The above two are much cheaper and tested them as well. Car made same power.

Look to dejon tool for your intercooler pipes. Bolt on and good quality. Only issue we had was on a 2G we had to JB weld the throttle body flange. Had a large intake leak there.

The exhuast, you could either buy one or have one built. Same results. Just a lot different prices. I would say 2.5" witha straight through muffler. 3" is nice but it is all just metal in the end. Unless you really want to unleash your car.

I have a friend with a 2G and an Evo III 16g. He has and external dump for the wastegate. He uses a greddy profec b (I don't like it) and runs 12-14psi because of no tuning tools, and he has no creep issues.

On green performance makes an adapter with filter for $60. That will bolt right onto your 2G MAS.

Good luck and enjoy your 2G. They are wonderful cars. Be kind to it and it will return the favor.

Steven

 

[dave99gst]

as far as wires go, i would just use factory OE wires. they seem to do the job quite nicely. also, recomment BPR7ES plugs gapped at .0032 for fuel economy.

ya prob dont need 7's on a close to stock setup. ( esp with that large of a gap )
6's @ .030" if ya went with 7's id prob go .028"

 

[ryboj]

Big: Things are adding up like crazy with my mod li$t, so if the magnacores are going to make roughly the same power for my application, I might as well be better off with the NGK set for reasons of cost. How do you feel about the RRE UICP? It seems completely reasonable, and the color is right (black). Any major diff to the Dejon tool you suggested?

On my list of wants, as for exhaust, I’ve got it narrowed down to RRE DP, high flow cat (CA), and the N1 out the rear. (I need to ask about the rear resonator? and its removal, smog wise) This would be a 3” system. Reason being, it seems appropriate (long term goal of 350whp, while staying within the lines of the stock block’s capabilities safely), and I like the stepped design of the RRE DP, interesting concept of the 2.5” starting point off the turbo into a 3” section out the back of the DP. I’m sure a 2.5” system would work nicely too, but there seems to be no cost difference in the 3” sys above….. I’m under the impression these aftermarket bolt on systems are cleaner (also proven) looking than having the local muffler shop throw some things together underneath my car. Just my thoughts though….

Trust me, this car will get loads of love, just like all the other cars I’ve owned. I take better care of my cars than I really should.

Dave: I can start with the 6’s, and after the inject/turbo mods, I will switch over to the 7’, plug wise.

Right now I’m running into a problem. I had my mind made up to try and keep the costs down to some degree and was just going to go the route of a S-AFC to keep the injectors under control, but after extensive reading this week on this site about tuning, it seems irresponsible not to run a datalogger as a compliment to go along with the S-AFC. This now brings the cost up closer next to the DSMLink (I have laptops available to me). The DSMLink is raved about on this site, and I’m sure for obvious reasons, IT WORKS, and it’s feature rich, including the logging aspect of the device. Problem is, it’s bringing the cost back up again. And if I have a DSMLink, I won’t sweat how big of an injector I go because it won’t have any issue handling them, compared to the max of the S-AFC at 650’s more or less. Plus, the DMSLink provides a smooth and consistent idle, which is important for drivability reasons.

BUT, one thing that is BAD about the DSMLink, if the battery is disconnected, you lose all the settings programed into the system by you via the DSMLink on the 2G. So, all your custom settings are gone and you need to redo them. Don't like that one bit. Correct me if I am wrong here.

Bottom line, it’s going to cost me more to do this right, and I like to do things right.

Secondly, I’m stuck between the notion of purchasing an EvoIII Big 16g ported, and some variation of a 50 trim turbo to reach my goals. Biggest problem is trying to narrow down the flow/feel characteristics of how it would be on my car is difficult to imagine. I like the fact the 50 trims are bolt up for the most part, no? But the Evo I need to purchase the 2G install kit which seems like a waste of cash, and could be better spent towards a “better” (which might mean larger) turbo.

Also, I’m still stuck on the FMIC. I don’t want one if I can avoid it. I don’t want the bling in the front bumper, and I don’t want to spend the $900 bucks to have one (and it's not just the money aspect). I feel a SMIC is better because it’s not flashy and is going to be a few hundred cheaper. Problem is, will it be sufficient to cool the turbos I mentioned above? I have a feeling I will be in the 16-18psi if I had a SMIC, and 17-20psi if I had a FMIC.

What to do, what to do….

 

[biglady112]

I would do NGK BPR6ES' @ .028". That is what I recommend for everyone. It works very well. I run .026-.027, but run super large turbos that blow out spark.

Go to the dealer and get the stock wires. Actually since conicelli is no longer around, I can say that two local dealers here give a great discount. The one I use is 25%. Its mile high mitsubishi. (303) 369-7800. Just tell them you are a DSM member and they will hook you up. My friend is making over 400awhp as did I with them.

The road race pipe is nice, just more expensive then dejontool.com. Dejon can paint it almost any color. OUrs are black on our 2G. Dejon is much cheaper.

The exhuast are all the same in my opinion. Just about all of the mufflers I have heard are very close in sound. It is all just metal. Just depends on how much bling and respectable appearence you want. We run straight pipes. No muffler. I know you can't but that is what we do. It just sounds pissed. It is not a law in colorado.

I would recommed a 50 trim. I like bigger turbos. But a FMIC is necessary. Evo III, you can do well for the most part without a FMIC. It just depends on your goals. But eventually you will tire of a small turbo. The enjoyment just won't be there anymore. There are plenty of smaller front mounts out there. Just do some searching and see if it is for you.

You will have to purchase a 95 ecu, FFWD connection, ongreenperformance.com, etc. But the flexibility of DSMlink is great. We run it up here all day. Yea you have to always put your settings back in, but it is worth it. We almost went with this for our race car as well, but found that a GM MAF wouldn't flow like we wanted. SO we ended up going with AEM EMS. But for all my friends and their kids, dsmlink has been wonderful. It is a great loggin tool, that allows support of up to 1800cc injectors and controls timing +12degrees and -8degrees.

Good luck and have fun. One thing at a time. Learn your car and your parts. It is better and more fun. I went from stock to 450awhp overnight, and regret it. I had to sell because I needed money more than the car. I have a 2G now and have the plan, but getting my life with my girlfriend started is most important. Her car has AEM EMS and thats it. It drives wonderful. That is not the race car by the way.

Steve

 

[ryboj]

Will do on the plugs…..

Cool, thanks for the info on the discount. I was wondering which dealers could give discounts. I have 20% off at the local dodge dealership for like the last 15 years, but for some reason they want to retract it….not sure why.

The RRE UICP is $95 or so, and it looks like the Dejon Tool one on their site is $199. So, I think it’s the opposite from what you said unless I’m confused on the UICP itself.

The exhaust, I don’t want the rice look, but the N1 is awfully close to that image. I’ll reconsider the cat-back section in the coming months.

So, was I correct, a 50 trim will bolt right up, no install kits needed right?

Assuming I took the route of a 50 trim, it seems the pricing on a FMIC kit smaller or bigger are all roughly in the same price range 800-1k. I know you can do custom for cheaper, but then it can often turn into a hacked job, and the fitment is never as good as these designed kits, piping that is.

Yeah, I know about the eprom 95 ECU…. Didn’t know about the FFWD connection. I’ll read into that part again. The MAFT option did not seem worthy, as you still need to run another system on top of that, and it will raise eye brows at the smog place. The DSMLink seems to be the only REAL daily driver tuning device that can do what I need it to do. The AEM system is far too involved for my liking, but obviously has its place in the racing world.

Another thing, the AFPR. Another mystery. Will I actually need this with my coming setup considering I’ll be running a 190? It’s like 50% yes, 50% no throughout reading these posts…. Maybe it just depends…. Who knows..

Can I run a 50 trim at very low boost levels before adding a FMIC by the way, assuming I had larger injects and the DMSLink.

I completely understand your last point about blowing cash, and priorties. I will be getting married next year, and I don’t want cash flow to interfere with that next step. So what you say makes sense. That’s why I’m trying to be somewhat frugal with my desires…. But I do need more power you know, she can understand that…

Ryan

 

[biglady112]

Dejon's is the same price. The one on road race is just replacing the plastic pipe. It still has the upper rubber pipe. In the end both pieces are about the same through both vendors.

You don't need a regulator until you up the injectors. I would just get the 255 fuel pump. I think they are the same price. Why go less if its only $100. You can run the 50 trim with just a fuel pump, side mount and stock injectors. Just run low boost and the car will be fine. Have seen friends do it to no ill effect. DSMlink works well with a GM MAF and translator. Also works great for the 2G mas. As that is what is was designed for.

I would say run the 50 trim, side mount and stock injectors and learn the car. Any issues you might have can be tuned out. Just know that the car will only do good from a roll. If you drag race it, by the top of second gear, it will heat soak. But you will just have to see what I mean.

Contact martin at thespeedfactor.com. That is about the cheapest you can find a 50 trim right now. And yes, the mitsubishi hybrid's are direct bolt ons. I.E. pte, forced performance, turbochargers.com.

Steve

 

[ryboj]

Ok, wasn’t sure….on the UICP….thank you for correcting me.

Nah, the 255 is way too big, as the 190 will flow enough over my goals.. It (the 255) will only produce extra pressure in the system, and the fuel will be returned, and it will just warm the fuel, and create additional tuning factors I wish not to compensate for if possible. I had the same issue on my Super Charged mustang. I simply had too much fuel (if there is such a thing), and that was with an AFPR.

I noticed the hybrids are bolt on, but they still mention I need a garret install kit, which goes for $125 or so. Is this just basic parts that any turbo would need if swapping one out? Or is it unnecessary?

Attack: Great pics, thanks for the visual. The N1 from what I read has a deeper tone. Is it annoying by any means? Are the other Apexi setups more dinero, or the same price? I’ve seen some, but they are costly. The N1 seems to be the most popular, or is it trendy?

I noticed a lot of guys on this site are in the high 200’s and low 300whp range with their varying forms of 16g’s. I would like to be a little higher than that, preferably 325-350whp, and not maxed out by any means. I want a nice safety cushion there, knowing none of my aftermarket parts (incl engine) are tuned out to their limits.

I too have a daily driver, so top end pull and muscle is not my only concern. I do however want a little extra up on top if possible. I do roughly 75% street now, but enjoy the 5th gear pulls on the freeway….even if it’s just the puny T-25 at the moment…

From all the posts about the Big Evo, the RPM’s and when it spools seems ideal, coming on soon, but maybe a hair shy on overall top end and follow-through power…. Is there a 50 trim with similar bottom end, like that of the Big Evo that can be fetched?

FP Big28……..price is definitely right, but many on this board seemed to favor the Evo overall….. I don’t have any quotes, just remember seeing the two referenced together multiple times and most would favor the Evo in how it spools and pulls compared to the 28. Do I have that wrong?

Keep it coming…..guys…

 

[Attack Eagle]

THere are other Apex"i setups besides the N1 that sound a lot lot better. At least IMO.

I'm not a drifter or a ricer so I don't need a loud exhaust tilted all funky.

RRE DP AND CAT

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dunk fitment

sorry I don't have an under car shop of the piping... She's at the shop getting a built 6 bolt right now (since my new house doesn't have a garage and we have sandy 30+ mph winds...)

At 300-350 whp you are really only looking at an EVO3 though I will be the first to admit that 50 trim is always a thing of beauty. Personally I prefer quick spool up to max hp since I drive mine daily in congested traffic (planned big28 from fp at $500... killer deal and totally stealth). Have any local friends that can give you a ride in their set up to help you decide?

 

[ryboj]

Ok, wasn’t sure….on the UICP….thank you for correcting me.

Nah, the 255 is way too big, as the 190 will flow enough over my goals.. It (the 255) will only produce extra pressure in the system, and the fuel will be returned, and it will just warm the fuel, and create additional tuning factors I wish not to compensate for if possible. I had the same issue on my Super Charged mustang. I simply had too much fuel (if there is such a thing), and that was with an AFPR.

I noticed the hybrids are bolt on, but they still mention I need a garret install kit, which goes for $125 or so. Is this just basic parts that any turbo would need if swapping one out? Or is it unnecessary?

Attack: Great pics, thanks for the visual. The N1 from what I read has a deeper tone. Is it annoying by any means? Are the other Apexi setups more dinero, or the same price? I’ve seen some, but they are costly. The N1 seems to be the most popular, or is it trendy?

I noticed a lot of guys on this site are in the high 200’s and low 300whp range with their varying forms of 16g’s. I would like to be a little higher than that, preferably 325-350whp, and not maxed out by any means. I want a nice safety cushion there, knowing none of my aftermarket parts (incl engine) are tuned out to their limits.

I too have a daily driver, so top end pull and muscle is not my only concern. I do however want a little extra up on top if possible. I do roughly 75% street now, but enjoy the 5th gear pulls on the freeway….even if it’s just the puny T-25 at the moment…

From all the posts about the Big Evo, the RPM’s and when it spools seems ideal, coming on soon, but maybe a hair shy on overall top end and follow-through power…. Is there a 50 trim with similar bottom end, like that of the Big Evo that can be fetched?

FP Big28……..price is definitely right, but many on this board seemed to favor the Evo overall….. I don’t have any quotes, just remember seeing the two referenced together multiple times and most would favor the Evo in how it spools and pulls compared to the 28. Do I have that wrong?

Keep it coming…..guys…

 

[Attack Eagle]

I noticed the hybrids are bolt on, but they still mention I need a garret install kit, which goes for $125 or so. Is this just basic parts that any turbo would need if swapping one out? Or is it unnecessary?

Attack: Great pics, thanks for the visual. The N1 from what I read has a deeper tone. Is it annoying by any means? Are the other Apexi setups more dinero, or the same price? I’ve seen some, but they are costly. The N1 seems to be the most popular, or is it trendy?


I too have a daily driver, so top end pull and muscle is not my only concern. I do however want a little extra up on top if possible. I do roughly 75% street now, but enjoy the 5th gear pulls on the freeway….even if it’s just the puny T-25 at the moment…

From all the posts about the Big Evo, the RPM’s and when it spools seems ideal, coming on soon, but maybe a hair shy on overall top end and follow-through power…. Is there a 50 trim with similar bottom end, like that of the Big Evo that can be fetched?

FP Big28……..price is definitely right, but many on this board seemed to favor the Evo overall….. I don’t have any quotes, just remember seeing the two referenced together multiple times and most would favor the Evo in how it spools and pulls compared to the 28. Do I have that wrong?

Just about any turbo except the t25 will give you so much more up top it will be like driving a new car... I only mention the t28 as it shows that I am on the oppposite end of the spectrum... looking for good down low power for daily driving rather than getting a bigger turbo... Over all power is supposed to be slightly lower than the evo3 but shifted lower and not as much up top.
Best bet is finding someone who will give you a ride with an evo3 or big 16 and seeing if its "enough" before you jump straight from a t25 to a 50 trim.


The N1 is not any deeper than any other exhaust that I have heard... but it definately is louder. Silencing ability is directly affected by the muffler volume and the n1 is not real big.It is the most popular of the apex'i setups b/c of its drifter/"JDM" look IMO and price IMO.


In that picof the Dunk you only see about 50% of the muffler, its an offset tip and there is a big chunk of it hidden in the body work.