Just did mods now I boost WAY too high stock T25

[r6speed]

Have stock T25 just put on the greddy BOV and recirculated it compared to my old one not recirculated. Also built a aluminum can cover around the intake filter, also put on a dual stage MBC2 from Dejon. I have the thumb screw pretty much all the way out on the boost controller.

Just took it for a drive started with the switch ON and did a third gear pull. Boosted all the way up to 21-22 lbs before I hit fuel cut (guessing cause it was like a brick wall)
So then I switched the switch the other way and it did the exact same thing.

What the hell? It should be only boosting like 8lbs with it all the way out right?
Need help fast I have test and tune for autocross tomorrow.

Thanks!


EDIT: My thoughts...MBC not working correctly or I am backwards on adjusting the thumbs screw (backing it almost all the way out) / hooked it up wrong but I did it the exact way the directions said / new BOV affecting something but I don't see how

 

[VanGT30]

huh? So your saying leave the lower one just atmosphere (like I tried if you read above)?

yes just leave it open

 

[doayamaha]

you shouldn't be running it with the clapper closed all the way to start out with. It is supposed to be open a little from the get go. I put a aftermarker actuator on my buddy's srt the actuator was adjustable, and he took off the origanal so i didn't see where the flapper was origanally. and i adjusted it all the way closed, well since i did that it overboosted like crazy and ran into brick walls.

 

[r6speed]

Please read above posts ^^^ the clapper is not all the way closed. It is sticking all the way open

 

[r6speed]

Ok I put the other wastegate on anyways cause I had to drive it anyways. While in neutral sitting still I had a friend watch the wastegate rod (right now its closed) and I stepped on it to about 6k and let the BOV blow off....the bar never moved...is this normal? Theres no real way to see if it opens and closes except I guess after I drive it if it was sticking open then when I stop it should be stuck open...and its not. So its obviously working IMO. The CEL is still on though?? I didn't try to disconect the battery though. Any ideas?

 

[92awddsm]

Ok I put the other wastegate on anyways cause I had to drive it anyways. While in neutral sitting still I had a friend watch the wastegate rod (right now its closed) and I stepped on it to about 6k and let the BOV blow off....the bar never moved...is this normal? Theres no real way to see if it opens and closes except I guess after I drive it if it was sticking open then when I stop it should be stuck open...and its not. So its obviously working IMO. The CEL is still on though?? I didn't try to disconect the battery though. Any ideas?

You shouldnt be able to make the wg open by free revving the engine. It requires a load to spool the turbo that much and make the wg operate.

Do you have the original bcs removed from the vehicle? If so, reconnect the wiring to the bcs but dont hook any vacuum lines to it. If the light was on before the bcs was removed, the stock bcs is faulty and needs to be replaced.

 

[r6speed]

Stock BCS is still in the car with the harness hooked to it, but not vacume lines to it. Ok I can try that I guess...buy a stock BCS just to get the check engine light of, but the check engine light is not whats making my car run like this....that is what I'm trying to figure out.

Like said above the WGA clapper sticks wide open when the WGA is disconected and you are moving by hand...although when i go drive it and boost up and stop and look at it, its closed. Meaning during the drive it opens and closes and is working.

 

[r6speed]

UPDATE: Did a boost leak test and everything is solid

 

[92awddsm]

Stock BCS is still in the car with the harness hooked to it, but not vacume lines to it. Ok I can try that I guess...buy a stock BCS just to get the check engine light of, but the check engine light is not whats making my car run like this....that is what I'm trying to figure out.

Like said above the WGA clapper sticks wide open when the WGA is disconected and you are moving by hand...although when i go drive it and boost up and stop and look at it, its closed. Meaning during the drive it opens and closes and is working.

You need to remove the o2 housing and see why the wg arm is sticking. If it is just bad, you need to swap out the turbine housing. This can be done without removing the turbo. All it requires is removing the o2 housing and exhaust manifold. Then you can access the turbo enough to remove the turbine housing.

Im sure most everyone gets what your problem is and you have been told to remove the o2 housing and check out the wg flapper(not clapper) for an obstruction. Until you do this, no one else will really be able to help you. At this point, there is no way around it.