Just did mods now I boost WAY too high stock T25

[r6speed]

Have stock T25 just put on the greddy BOV and recirculated it compared to my old one not recirculated. Also built a aluminum can cover around the intake filter, also put on a dual stage MBC2 from Dejon. I have the thumb screw pretty much all the way out on the boost controller.

Just took it for a drive started with the switch ON and did a third gear pull. Boosted all the way up to 21-22 lbs before I hit fuel cut (guessing cause it was like a brick wall)
So then I switched the switch the other way and it did the exact same thing.

What the hell? It should be only boosting like 8lbs with it all the way out right?
Need help fast I have test and tune for autocross tomorrow.

Thanks!


EDIT: My thoughts...MBC not working correctly or I am backwards on adjusting the thumbs screw (backing it almost all the way out) / hooked it up wrong but I did it the exact way the directions said / new BOV affecting something but I don't see how

 

[Maranello993]

good point, sorry. Goin to bed. Hope someone can help you, I'm not sure whats wrong so I don't want to tell you to go try something.

 

[r6speed]

No problem just frusterated. Can't get anyone to look at this post that knows whats going on...even tried PM ing people

 

[1992awdlaser]

From what you have said so far I would have to say you have either 1. Too small of a line going to the wastegate actuator thus making it take longer to open which will cause it to boost higher then it should at first 2. The line going to the wastegate actuator is kinked, has a hole in it, is melted somewhere or something to that affect to limit the air going to the actuator which would cause the actuator to do the same thing as I said in number one 3. The wastegate actuator itself is bad and is not responding as fast as it should be.

 

[r6speed]

THANK YOU! ok so I just checked all the lines and they are good, larger than stock, and not kinked all brand new. SO I am guessing its the wastegate since I am also getting the p1103 code for wastegate malfuntion. My only question is if the wastegate was not working right wouldn't I boost 21lbs and it do the same thing when I bypass the MBC? And its not, its doing whats said above.

 

[1992awdlaser]

With the boost controller in place it will take just a second longer for the wastegate to open since it limits the air a little which would make it boost a little higher.

 

[Maranello993]

It peaked boost at 18...as it started to come back down it did the brick wall thing but not as aggresavely, it settled at 14 and ran like a stuck pig So this leads me to beleave my wastegate is working fine otherwise I would just go right back up to 21 lbs and feul cut like crazy...

Would have suggested the wastegate was bad if it weren't for this post...

A lot of times boost spikes are caused by the mbc delaying the signal, but your saying that your problem is bigger. But if the stock wastegate is allowing 18psi while bypassing the mbc, it must be a line or the wg actuator.

 

[r6speed]

Ok so I might have found my problem...problem to the CEL AND the OVER BOOST. I have two stock wastegates with the Turbo and everything. I started switching the one on the car with the other one I have. After I got the wastegate off of the car I accidently closed the clapper when taking the WAG off. No big deal i just open with my hands that way I can get the new WGA on....not so much, it won't open back up unless I use a hammer and hammer it open...then it closes by had really easily but won't open. Even if I just close it a 1/4 inch and try closing back it won't it will only open by hand. However I can get it close with a hammer. SO I thought maybe its something weird I never noticed before, but the one that is off the car opens fine and closes fine by hand....UNLESS you open it ALL THE WAY then it sticks and is a harder to get closed but still possible without the hammer.

SO what now? Is this suppost to be like this and then when the car runs it will free back up? Why does it close so easy but takes a hammer to open the damn thing? Should I install the new WGA and see what happens or stop now cause this is messed up?

The other thing is that the WGA I took off the car (just by pulling on it) feels the same as the new one so I'm not sure this is it, I think its that damn clapper and that sux!!!!! I was able to get the WGA off without removing ANYTHING else...if I have to change this I'm in for a day probably (never done it before)

 

[r6speed]

Would have suggested the wastegate was bad if it weren't for this post...

A lot of times boost spikes are caused by the mbc delaying the signal, but your saying that your problem is bigger. But if the stock wastegate is allowing 18psi while bypassing the mbc, it must be a line or the wg actuator.

Ya I didn't think it was the WGA or the lines....lines are new and I thought if the WGA was messed up...or the clapper is sticking than it would run the 21psi just like when I had the MBC hooked up and it wouldn't go down when I bypass the MBC...So I don't know what the hell is going on, doesn't make sense

 

[1992awdlaser]

Do you mean the wastegate flapper where the actuator arm connects to (I am pretty sure you do)? If so, this should move freely. You should be able to move it with one finger. So I would have to say that is deffinately your problem since it would either cause the actuator to open it slower or it won't open all the way. I would leave off the wastegate actuator and take off the o2 housing. Then see if you can tell why it is hard to open. Maybe you can fix it without taking anything else off.

 

[1992awdlaser]

or the clapper is sticking than it would run the 21psi just like when I had the MBC hooked up and it wouldn't go down when I bypass the MBC...So I don't know what the hell is going on, doesn't make sense

Like I said before, when the boost controller is on it is going to limit the air slightly that is going to the actuator(even if backed off all the way. This will cause the actuator to open later since it doesn't see full pressure as soon. If you tighten the boost controller then it will limit how soon the air gets to the actuator even more. It does this because there is a ball bearing at the bottom (right above where the in line is hooked up). And there is a spring above that ball. The spring is going to require some sort of pressure to be on the ball before the ball will move up and let the air get to the actuator. So as you can see when tightened it works by tightening the spring whiuch will require more pressure on the ball to open. This is how a boost controller works.

 

[r6speed]

right I understand that...but when the boost controller is not hooked up it runs less is what I don't understand...but it has to be something with the WGA clapper. What does it take to get that off?

Do you mean the wastegate flapper where the actuator arm connects to (I am pretty sure you do)?

Yes exactly

 

[r6speed]

The other one I have the clapper moves freely unless you open it ALL THE WAY then it hits the housing and sticks...is that normal? Should I not use this one? Should I dremmel out the spot the clapper hits and sticks at and use it?

 

[1992awdlaser]

right I understand that...but when the boost controller is not hooked up it runs less is what I don't understand...

Since the boost controller is not in place the air doesn't have to put pressure on the ball that is inside of it. The air can just move right to the acuator through the vacuum line. So now there is less resistance on the air.

but it has to be something with the 02 housing. What does it take to get that off?

You have to take off the two bolts that connect it to the downpipe and the four that connect it to the turbo. You might have to remove some things to get to the bolts. I didn't have to on my 1g though.

 

[r6speed]

On second thought....you can't change just the clapper, I would have to change the turbo....NOOOOOOOOOO the other one I have is not as good damn I really need to get a 16g

 

[1992awdlaser]

On second thought....you can't change just the clapper, I would have to change the turbo....NOOOOOOOOOO the other one I have is not as good damn I really need to get a 16g

Just take off th o2 housing like I said and see if you can find the reason it is hard to move and fix it. If you can't fix it then take off the turbine housing and put the one on off your other turbo. The o2 housing has to come off either way so might as well try to fix this one first.

 

[r6speed]

Since the boost controller is not in place the air doesn't have to put pressure on the ball that is inside of it. The air can just move right to the acuator through the vacuum line. So now there is less resistance on the air.

Ok I know this is probably anoying the hell out of you but I still don't understand this.
When the MBC is bypassed and I am running NO BC I should be running MAX boost possible because the clapper is stuck open anyways.
And with the MBC hooked up I should be running the same MAX boost possible because the clapper is stuck open.
So my question to that is why when its bypassed am I getting LESS boost than when its NOT bypassed?
I automaticly think it should be the same no matter what I do if the clapper is stuck open, but I don't know.

Second question: With the MBC bypassed I am peaking 18 hitting a bit of fuel cut on the way back to 14 and then stable and running great at 14psi, so since I can't afford a Evo big 16g for a couple months and I have races to race would it hurt anything with the clapper just stuck open and me running 18 peak 14 stable with the MBC bypassed?

 

[r6speed]

If you can't fix it then take off the turbine housing and put the one on off your other turbo. The o2 housing has to come off either way so might as well try to fix this one first.

ok so your saying if I can't fix it take the internals out of my current turbo and put them in the new housing? Cause the clapper is in the actuall turbocharger so how hard is it to swap the internals from one to the other?

 

[1992awdlaser]

Ok I know this is probably anoying the hell out of you but I still don't understand this.
When the MBC is bypassed and I am running NO BC I should be running MAX boost possible because the clapper is stuck open anyways.
And with the MBC hooked up I should be running the same MAX boost possible because the clapper is stuck open.
So my question to that is why when its bypassed am I getting LESS boost than when its NOT bypassed?
I automaticly think it should be the same no matter what I do if the clapper is stuck open, but I don't know.

Yeah, I'm not going to try and explain this because I will just be repeating myself. Just know that it is normal.

Second question: With the MBC bypassed I am peaking 18 hitting a bit of fuel cut on the way back to 14 and then stable and running great at 14psi, so since I can't afford a Evo big 16g for a couple months and I have races to race would it hurt anything with the clapper just stuck open and me running 18 peak 14 stable with the MBC bypassed?

I would fix it whether you can do it with the one that is on the car or by putting the other turbine housing on your turbo. You don't want to race your car when it is not running right.

 

[1992awdlaser]

ok so your saying if I can't fix it take the internals out of my current turbo and put them in the new housing? Cause the clapper is in the actuall turbocharger so how hard is it to swap the internals from one to the other?

The turbine housing is the part you will have to change. You will have to take your turbo off the car to get that off. Then put the other turbine housing on it from your other turbo. It is the housing that the exhaust goes through. Some call it the exhaust side, hot side, exhaust housing.

 

[r6speed]

You don't want to race your car when it is not running right.

ok I will tear it apart I guess, would it hurt it to just drive it easily? I wouldn't think so since I am not running much over stock psi...and I mainly mean like 15 miles tomorrow to the shop so I can put it on the car lift

 

[r6speed]

and thank you for all the help I really appriciate it, I will post back when I get it done

 

[1992awdlaser]

ok I will tear it apart I guess, would it hurt it to just drive it easily? I wouldn't think so since I am not running much over stock psi...and I mainly mean like 15 miles tomorrow to the shop so I can put it on the car lift

Sure. With this problem if you are not going to beat on it you can drive it as much as you want.

and thank you for all the help I really appriciate it, I will post back when I get it done

No prblem, I am just losing some sleep over this one that is all. Yeah, let us know what happens with it.

 

[VanGT30]

do not block off the lower nipple on you bov leave it open and just run the upper one, it won't case any problem and having the lower one capped it will not allow the BOV to function properly

if you arn't sure about changing your wastgate flapper buy a good used T-25 and change the hole turbo it may be easier for you.

 

[r6speed]

do not block off the lower nipple on you bov leave it open and just run the upper one

having the lower one capped it will not allow the BOV to function properly

huh? So your saying leave the lower one just atmosphere (like I tried if you read above)?

 

[r6speed]

btw, the really weird thing about the clapper not closing is the fact that it opens so easy, but doesn't close...even if you just open it half way with ease, it then will only open more it will not close...thats what I don't get. If there was something blocking it it should be hard going both ways