Just did mods now I boost WAY too high stock T25

[r6speed]

Have stock T25 just put on the greddy BOV and recirculated it compared to my old one not recirculated. Also built a aluminum can cover around the intake filter, also put on a dual stage MBC2 from Dejon. I have the thumb screw pretty much all the way out on the boost controller.

Just took it for a drive started with the switch ON and did a third gear pull. Boosted all the way up to 21-22 lbs before I hit fuel cut (guessing cause it was like a brick wall)
So then I switched the switch the other way and it did the exact same thing.

What the hell? It should be only boosting like 8lbs with it all the way out right?
Need help fast I have test and tune for autocross tomorrow.

Thanks!


EDIT: My thoughts...MBC not working correctly or I am backwards on adjusting the thumbs screw (backing it almost all the way out) / hooked it up wrong but I did it the exact way the directions said / new BOV affecting something but I don't see how

 

[1992awdlaser]

Take the boost controller off and I bet the problem will be fixed.

 

[knochgoon24]

Do a boost leak test. I had the same problem since putting on a new BOV. I'm still running the stock BCS but was hitting 15psi, at which point, it would stutter. Turns out I had a massive boost leak.

 

[r6speed]

Take the boost controller off and I bet the problem will be fixed.

Are you saying just put the stock one back on? That would really suck because I already seperated the line from the turbo compressor to the wastegate and made it two seperate instead of Teed together like stock. Also means I bought this and now it does me no good?? Do you think it is the MBC and I should send it back and get a new one? Or are you saying no matter what MBC I use it will do this? Makes no sense to me could you explain why?

 

[1992awdlaser]

I am saying just hook a line up with no boost controller. Hook it up like the one you have now just without a boost controller in there. You know what I mean. If you do that and it gets fixed you either 1. have a bad boost controller which is causing the problem or 2. have the boost controller adjusted wrong.

When you hook the line up the wastegate actuator will make the flapper open at whatever the set spring pressure is in the actuator.

 

[r6speed]

ok i think I get what your saying. There are two hoses going into the mbc, one from the Wastegate and one form the compressor...just unplug them off of the MBC and connect them? Also forgot to tell you, my CEL is on throwing P1103 code and says wastegate actuator not functioning properly, but I have been told thats probably not whats throwing the CEL because there is no sensor on the WGA....just on the stock BS. Also wondering what to do with the harness that was plugged into the BCS...could that be causing anything? Its just sitting there now doesn't seem right?

 

[1992awdlaser]

Yeah just have one going from the compressor outlet to the wastegate with no boost controller. The cel is coming on since your stock bcs is disconnected. You should be able to plug the electrical connector back on to it and the light should go off. Just don't hook the lines back up to it.

 

[r6speed]

No what I was saying is the CEL has been on for months...I just changed the boost controller today. I will try to bypass the MBC and see what happens although I must say it makes me nervious

 

[r6speed]

Ok I did exactly what you said exept I left the BOV conected in that line also. So I just had a line going from wastegate to compressor with a tee to the bov.

It peaked boost at 18...as it started to come back down it did the brick wall thing but not as aggresavely, it settled at 14 and ran like a stuck pig So this leads me to beleave my wastegate is working fine otherwise I would just go right back up to 21 lbs and feul cut like crazy...the MBC is setup exactly like it says in the install.php file from DEJON | Powerhouse click on the bottom left tab "boost controllers" and I have the dual MBC2. It is setup just like that.

SO you think its the mbc? I don't see how much could really go wrong with it...?

EDIT: I just realized the directions they sent me are different from the PDF file on there site. The one on there site says to cap the compressor line and run one line into the wastegate and one into the BOV 2 INTAKE line.

The one I got says to run one into the comressor and one into the wastegate....Right now I have one ran to the compressor with a tee in it for the BOV and one ran directly to the wastegate....WHAT THE HELL!!! Two different directions???????

Anyone have any idea whats going on here?

 

[r6speed]

Also I am reading these forums and they are saying to hook it up like the directions I got say...one line compressor housing and one to the wastegate....tee off of line to compressor for bottom BOV outlet. Is this right?

 

[Maranello993]

Ok I did exactly what you said exept I left the BOV conected in that line also. So I just had a line going from wastegate to compressor with a tee to the bov.

It peaked boost at 18...as it started to come back down it did the brick wall thing but not as aggresavely, it settled at 14 and ran like a stuck pig So this leads me to beleave my wastegate is working fine otherwise I would just go right back up to 21 lbs and feul cut like crazy...the MBC is setup exactly like it says in the install.php file from DEJON | Powerhouse click on the bottom left tab "boost controllers" and I have the dual MBC2. It is setup just like that.

SO you think its the mbc? I don't see how much could really go wrong with it...?

EDIT: I just realized the directions they sent me are different from the PDF file on there site. The one on there site says to cap the compressor line and run one line into the wastegate and one into the BOV 2 INTAKE line.

The one I got says to run one into the comressor and one into the wastegate....Right now I have one ran to the compressor with a tee in it for the BOV and one ran directly to the wastegate....WHAT THE HELL!!! Two different directions???????

Anyone have any idea whats going on here?

Very much could go wrong with an MBC. When I first installed my Hallman Pro RX MBC I accidentally ran the hoses to the wrong parts of the mbc. The reason it drops off: the t 25 can't keep up. You may not be getting a signal to the wastegate actuator. I'm not sure how you've got it set up but do it like this. From the turbo pressure source, send a line to the INLET of the mbc. Then from the outlet goes the line to the actuator. If that doesn't work something is wrong with the way you've adjusted it or it doesn't work. There should be no connection from your BOV to or from the MBC.

When I crossed the lines for the mbc it was like having no signal to the actuator and it let the turbo go, I let off the gas as soon as I saw the gauge flying up toward 20psi. I limped home and switched the hoses and problem solved. I did the cross because the hoses were conveniently placed close to the wrong inlet/outlet at the time I connected them, it just slipped my mind.

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

Why do you have your BOV tee'd into the line from the wastegate to the compressor nipple? Just have one line from the wastegate to the compressor nipple and you'll be running wastegate pressure basically (I'm doing the same thing right now). You shouldn't be boosting anything past 12 psi like that. There should be only one vac line coming from your BOV going to the intake manifold...

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

Also I am reading these forums and they are saying to hook it up like the directions I got say...one line compressor housing and one to the wastegate....tee off of line to compressor for bottom BOV outlet. Is this right?

Since you're running such low boost why didn't you just go with the single stage MBC?

 

[r6speed]

Well I would like to figure the MBC out...not just leave it unhooked and forget about it whats the reason for having one then? Also like I said I am steadily getting 14psi with it ran directly from WGA to compressor but it peaks at 18 first and right after the peak it does the fuel cut thing before it settles back to 14.

Next thing...have you ever installed a greddy type s BOV? If you have you should know that there is TWO lines coming off of the BOV...one on the top going to the intake...one towards the bottom going to the compressor. My understanding on this is that you can leave the bottom one unhooked, but you can't adjust the BOV if you do...so they say to hook it up and it doesnt effect anything else.

This is were it says that...check it out Installing a Greddy Type S BOV in a DSM Eclipse/Talon/Laser

 

[r6speed]

obvious reasons.........I don't plan on running low boost forever...that would be like buying a aftermarket sidemount because your on the stock turbo or a 18g...then you buy the 20G and have to buy a FMIC...whats the point??? Why not just buy the FMIC first?

 

[r6speed]

I'm not sure how you've got it set up but do it like this. From the turbo pressure source, send a line to the INLET of the mbc. Then from the outlet goes the line to the actuator. If that doesn't work something is wrong with the way you've adjusted it or it doesn't work. There should be no connection from your BOV to or from the MBC.

this is how I have it hooked up, except I do have the LOWER bov line teed into the compressor line that is also going to the INLET of the MBC

 

[Maranello993]

Well, I don't know about the type s. I have a 1G BOV and I only had do deal with one vac line to it. It's simple in my car, just two vacuum hoses: one to and from the mbc. The point of unhooking the mbc for you at this point is to test to see if your mbc is the problem or if something else is. If you have a steady 10-12 psi with the pressure source going straight from the comp. housing to the wg actuator, then its the mbc.

EDIT: the line from the bov going to the mbc? Could be messing up the signal to the wg actuator.

 

[r6speed]

Well, I don't know about the type s. I have a 1G BOV and I only had do deal with one vac line to it. It's simple in my car, just two vacuum hoses: one to and from the mbc. The point of unhooking the mbc for you at this point is to test to see if your mbc is the problem or if something else is. If you have a steady 10-12 psi with the pressure source going straight from the comp. housing to the wg actuator, then its the mbc.

EDIT: the line from the bov going to the mbc? Could be messing up the signal to the wg actuator.

I don't think the line is messing up the MBC but I will unhook it and try it, although as the link I posted said this is how its suppost to be. Once again I am getting a steady 14psi....but BEFORE that steady 14psi I peak 18 and hit feul cut...this is when the MBC is bypassed

Someone help please. BTW I understand what the bypassing the MBC was for, but I don't want to leave it like that, makes no sense to do that...I need to figure it out

 

[Maranello993]

Installing a Greddy Type S BOV in a DSM Eclipse/Talon/Laser

this guy says that you may be able to avoid that smaller outlet, it just makes the bov respond faster and makes it adjustable.

 

[r6speed]

Right I understand that. I just unhooked it and capped it and the car did the exact same thing...so this is not the problem

 

[r6speed]

????

 

[r6speed]

Your not understanding ... one more time ... WITHOUT THE MBC HOOKED UP I am peaking 18PSI and then feul cut and then STAYS AT 14PSI...THAT IS WITH MBC BYPASSED.

WITH MBC HOOKED UP-->21psi feul cut to no end
keep in mind the MBC thumb screw is screwed all the way OUT so it is set to its LOWEST BOOST possible.


EDIT: I understand that the T25 can't hold high boost....but that is not my problem...not my problem at all

 

[98eclipsekidd08]

Get rid of the t25 problem solved.







ha just kidding

 

[Maranello993]

Ha, you laugh but that's my solution for my problems (and there are many) with the t25. got an E3 16G

 

[r6speed]

I would like to, but I don't think the turbo has anything to do with this problem