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Just did compression test pissssed!!!!!

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2GFWDbeast

10+ Year Contributor
1,094
15
Jan 17, 2010
kenosha, Wisconsin
Had a shop do my engine build for me. They told me not to do any hard driving for at least 500 miles. So far i only have 199 miles on it, and its been about a month. I decided to do a compression test and it was 160 128 130 160 cause i noticed my vacuum at idle was little on the low side.

I have Je pistons 9.5:1. My vacuum is at 8 in/hg at idle. I do have hks 272 cams. Could it be that piston 2 and 3 haven't seated yet or do i need to goto the shop and bi*** at them, cause they messed something up.
 
Some of you have it wrong, it's not variable speeds that you want; you can stay the same speed. You want non constant RPMs.
 
baby first 500 miles,1/2 of max boost till 1000 miles,full boost till 1500 miles should have good compression. with regular oil changes. I recommend diesel oil for brake in
 
baby first 500 miles,1/2 of max boost till 1000 miles,full boost till 1500 miles should have good compression. with regular oil changes. I recommend diesel oil for brake in

What this guy said contradicts what everyone else here is saying so im thinking majority rules. Good info on this thread for when its my turn to break my engine in thanks everyone.
 
I put 240 miles on my motor so far with the wastegate arm disconnected, compression test results were between 165-170 across all 4 with 272 cams. The wastegate arm is hooked up now, haven't put any miles on it though.

If I did it again though, I'd boost it from the beginning.
 
baby first 500 miles,1/2 of max boost till 1000 miles,full boost till 1500 miles should have good compression. with regular oil changes. I recommend diesel oil for brake in

This guys an idiot... listen to the other members. Beat the hell out of it. You want the rings to seat fully, and they do this best when beat on hard.

You already saw it increase once you beat on the car for 1 day, so continue to do so.
 
First time I started mine, I let it idle while I set A/F and then started to drive it down the road. It was stumbling because of the tune but as soon as I get the tune good enough to get going, I let that thing hit 10 psi all the way through 3 and into 4th. Then let it suck the vacuum back down to 10. After diving it semi hard for 100 miles, the boost went up to 15. Then after 500 miles, boost went up to 20 and after 1000 it has been at 22 psi.
 
AS stated before, if anyones engine here wasn't broken in properly at first, it was my recent engine build...

But...on my other motors I would break it in like Motoman stated. Seat the rings fast in the first 50 miles from doing 3/4-WOT pulls and engine braking discharges all the shavings quickly. Do an oil change.

Then drive it a tad softer than before, till you get 250 more miles on it. (300 on motor total) Do an oil change.

Up the boost a little to 15-20 psi while driving still with some aggression, not hatred. LOL
Put another 1000 miles on the motor like this, and then an oil change to your favorite oil.

Now you can stop throwing that crappy Quaker State (or whatever Dino oil you were using for the first three oil changes), and start throwing in Brad Penn Partial Synthetic 10w-30 winter, 20-50 summer.
 
i don't see the reason to change the oil so many times. The motor was cleaned and what not. And if there was metal shavings in the oil i be able to see it on the dip stick. Iv seen it on previous cars. My oil is as clean and clear as water rite now at almost 230 miles. Rite now i have joe gibbs break-in oil which is high in zinc. After the 500 mile mark and then going to use valvoline vr1 race oil.
 
thats the main purpose for a oil filter to filter out things. If theres that much metal shavings and what not in the oil filter after 50 miles of driving then the motor wasnt cleaned very well or something else is going on. after 500 miles i will cut my oil filter open and post it.

all that was done to it was new pistons and rings. The motor and head were cleaned spot less.
 
Ok so if thats what happens, then what about all the brand new cars out there. I bought a 2006 cobalt ss 5 years ago, with 8 miles on. I didn't change the oil til the cars oil sensor told me to, and that was 7500 miles. I highly doubt that the car manufacturers bent test's hundreds of thousand motors in a room for 20 miles, and then change the oil.
 
change the oil whenever you want to, it's your money. I changed my oil on my new built motor after the first 10 miles then at 50 then at 200 then at 500, and just did it last week at 1,000. I'm going to go to 1,500 and then put mobile 1 synthetic in
 
thats the main purpose for a oil filter to filter out things. If theres that much metal shavings and what not in the oil filter after 50 miles of driving then the motor wasnt cleaned very well or something else is going on. after 500 miles i will cut my oil filter open and post it.

all that was done to it was new pistons and rings. The motor and head were cleaned spot less.

I take it you havent blown a turbo yet due to oil contamination have you. Metal shavings getting past the oil filter. I've gone through 3 rebuilds until I went and got an inline oil filter pre turbo and caught a chunk of metal. I thought the same way as you too.
 
I will say I'm not douting anyone's information. The shop built the motor for me, they told me 500 miles so that's what I'm doing. If something happens then you can bet I'll be raising hell, and they will be rebuilding me a new motor on there own cost.
 
That's exactly what I would do... Listen to the shop which apparently told you to break it in wrong.

I have 2500 miles on my engine now and have just done around the 6th oil change.


I recently built an engine for a friend and we did the motoman method changed the oil at 22 miles. There were no big shavings in the oil but it had a metallic color from the rings seating. It will be changed again at 250 then at 1000 then at 2000 with Brad Penn.
 
Well I just checked the oil and it has no such metallic color to it, still as clear as day one. If there was that much metal shavings in the I should be able to see it on the dip stick RIGHT???
 
No you aren't going to see all the shavings. It's not a bearing withthe color/brass yellow metal that is easily visible. Ring material is micron size and it's mixed throughout 4qts of oil.
 
Well I just checked the oil and it has no such metallic color to it, still as clear as day one. If there was that much metal shavings in the I should be able to see it on the dip stick RIGHT???


No we could only see it in the oil drain pan you had to look across it to see the metallic glow. I couldn't see it on the dipstick because it is metal it blends in.
 
You also have to consider that with breaking in the motor, you are getting tons of blow by gasses which are contaminating the oil and thinning it out as fuel is getting in it.

Even when the break in period is over i still change my oil like every 1000 miles. it cost less than 20 bucks and is a good preventitive measure as when as diagnostic tool. You can tell a lot by how the oil smells, looks, and feels. I also got an oil filter cutter that i use every time to see what my filter is catching. sometime you might randomly get a chunk of crap that is big enough that you wonder where it came from.
 
Ok but how is it any different with brand-new car with just a few miles on it vs a motor that has been cleaned hot tanked brand-new internals and what not. With the oil changing process?
 
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