Just a few questions about my interccoler setup I have chosen

[1993TalonTsiAWD]

Ok as my car sits it gets 30 or so counts of knock at 15psi on a evo 3 turbo. I only want around 300-350 while I'm in school anyway. So I have picked out a core that measures 26.75"L X 6.2"H X 3.5"D. Just about the right size, and there will be some room left for air to still get to the rad. It's a garret core and it made by pte so it should be fine for my goals.

Anyway I have searched and searched and can't find the info I need on piping and ruffly how many couplers I will need. I don't need really detailed instructions, just about how many u-bends I need and 90 degree bends, and how much stright pipe I need. I will be going the long route back to where the smic is and up the stock location. All will be 2.5in piping. Also I need a good number of around how many couplers and t-bolot clamps I will need. I plan to weld as much as possible to avoid 20plus t-bolt clamps.

Again I just need a ball park and don't mind buying extra I just don't want to forget anything as I will be installing it on a weekend back home and have to have it done to get back to school 5hours away.

thanks Derek

 

[DSM90AWD]

Again I just need a ball park and don't mind buying extra I just don't want to forget anything as I will be installing it on a weekend back home and have to have it done to get back to school 5hours away

If I were you, I would not attempt to do this all at once as sourcing parts on a weekend may not be possible. I'd first do a trial to test fit where the core is going to sit buy a couple cheap crush-bent bends from an AutoPart store to mock up where best to run the pipes (in your application) and to test clearances.

Some things to consider:
- The 1990 has an external oil cooler that may need relocation
- the bumper support may (ok will) need trimming
- the PS cooler may need relocation
- Both fans may have clearance issues (slim lines or creative pipe routing)
- Are you fabbing up your own "J" pipe?
- Buy uncut sections of silicone for more flexibility in connections
- add a "hump" connector on each run (UIP/LIP) to allow some flex in the system so couplers dont' pop off.
- Beading of the pipes

I've fabbed up custom pipes twice now and on both occasions ran into things I've not thought of prior

 

[Newlogics]

Here's what we commonly expect on a 1G FMIC install:

For complete piping (with UICP) we usually use:
3" to 2.5" reducers X 2 (if FMIC has 3" inlet/outlet, otherwise just couplers)
2.5" coupler X 3 (rest should be welded for clean setup)
2" to 2.5" reducer X 1 (to mate to J-pipe or turbo outlet)
2.5" t-belt clamps X 9
3" T-belt clamp X 2 (if FMIC has 3" inlet/outlet, otherwise 2.5" clamps)
2" t-bolt clamp X 1 (ot whatever your j-pipe or turbo outlet is)
2.5" U-bends X 5
2.5 Straight pipe X 2ft

Where do inlet/outlet point on your FMIC ?

 

[1993TalonTsiAWD]

Thanks guys for all the info,but I just went ahead and bought a slow boy racing street fmic kit.

thanks aways

Derek