The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Jacked Up Stereo, Need Help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

hardware

20+ Year Contributor
38
0
Nov 11, 2002
Wichita Falls, Texas
Finally home from Korea, get to work on my new 1g. Guy who owned it before was a total moron(we're talking deserves elimination from the genepool here) The stereo wiring is shot, I can't believe this one. The ground for the amps was merely taped into the hole where the bolt for the jack and spare is supposed to go. I can't get my head unit to work at all. I've tried everything short of wiring it direct to the battery. It's a Kenwood 1028. I shot the power leads running into the stereo harness, grounded to the metal chassis inside the dash. Key On Power line always shot dead, and the Hot All Times line was dropping voltage. Hard wired from pins 3 and 6 on the ignition switch using a Haynes Manual, and still grounding inside the dash chassis. I need help here, I'm thinking the reciever is dead now(was accepting a CD before, didn't turn on though(replaced speakers as well, so doubt they're the problem). I really need help here.
 
It's already essentially hard-wired to the battery, and I still get nothing. WTF? Bad reciever? I checked the fuse on the back of the unit, and it's okay. I'm stumped....
 
I used to install stereos professionally and I would recommend that you hard wire it straight to the battery first to eliminate the head unit as a problem.

Anytime before we installed used pieces (most importantly Head units) we had a rig set up with battery and speakers so we could test its total function before taking apart the dash. This test was done outside of the car.

If the head unit tests fine, get a volt/ohm meter and start tracing you connections, or just rewire the whole car. Shouldnt be that difficult either way.
 
You can also use a battery charger to test your head unit. They convert 120V -> 12V. Just plug the positive lead from the charger to both the red/yellow(typical colors) power wires and negative lead to the ground wire of the deck. I find this a bit easier than trying to use a car battery.
 
n0c7 said:
You can also use a battery charger to test your head unit. They convert 120V -> 12V. Just plug the positive lead from the charger to both the red/yellow(typical colors) power wires and negative lead to the ground wire of the deck. I find this a bit easier than trying to use a car battery.

Wow, thats a brilliant idea, I never thought about that.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top