it ran perfectly fine at the auction before I bought it

[One Equals Two]

A little change in moods. I'm just saying "Whatever, I guess." I'll figure out what's wrong with it eventually. I don't hate my car that much...I hate everything else that's been happening to me. My frustration also comes out with many many more issues (computer dying, buying a new one), F 150's transfer case going out (lots of miles though), and many many more problems not related to the DSM. I also smashed my finger too, and that (despite being user error) always facilitates lots of cursing and throwing of wrenches.

I am glad though that I found out that Autozone alternator was DOA, because now it made it so that it's very very easy to figure out what's going on I realized. There's obviously a short, and it's most likely the alternator plug wires because it's not blown any fuses but yet, making a considerable drain. It was just difficult to trace before because damn Autozone alternators are worth a...cough) and that caused all kinds of problems on top of the short. But anyway, I think I've got it down, I just need to take another hour or so and retrace all the wires again.

On a second note, don't buy a Honda. I went to a dealer and picked up a perfect condition certified used Civic Sedan because it's reliable. Well, I drove 30 miles, and now it's knocking and barely runs. The dealer I got it from said, "It's Certified by not under warranty." So, I am out yet another car and another $4000. It's full of oil, fluids, etc. and I didn't even drive it hard. I was on the freeway doing 65 when it started losing power. Anyway, so....yeah, don't buy Honda! I know it's probably a fluke, but I hate Honda's anyway so I like to trash on them.

I'll check the wires and post results.

 

[phunny]

The best way I've found for tracking down a short is hook a voltmeter up and then pull one fuse at a time until you see the voltage spike up. You'll know it when/if you find it.

 

[rush2252]

Your complaining about small maintenance issues? Ill trade you rebuilding my 7bolt after it jumped time AND the auto tranny took a shit all in the same week.

 

[ratatack]

I feel your pain man I had to have my engine rebuilt before I ever got to drive it. After I got my engine in my altinator broke down after 60 miles on it back to the shop I go with it and now it has a Idoling problem

 

[One Equals Two]

The best way I've found for tracking down a short is hook a voltmeter up and then pull one fuse at a time until you see the voltage spike up. You'll know it when/if you find it.

Already tried that, no change in voltage with any fuse. I also redid all the grounds too (sanded, and respliced a few wires).

Your complaining about small maintenance issues? Ill trade you rebuilding my 7bolt after it jumped time AND the auto tranny took a shit all in the same week.

Hey I have a shot transfer case in my F150 after 500 miles, a certified 5 day old Civic with a rod knock, and the grumpy DSM all at once. I think I'll trade your set of problems for mine anyday. I need ONE of these cars to work, and now I am down to borrowing my fiances STS.

What pisses me off the most about the DSM is that it reminds me of the grumpy child stomping his foot on the ground when things are not going his way.

 

[One Equals Two]

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I checked all the grounds (a lot of them were dirty) and reground them down to where they were shiny. I also filled the battery with water (distilled of course, and it was LOW) and redid the negative battery terminal ground. I also retaped all of the wires that had electrical tape falling off. Sigh....no change.

I am thinking that I have bad luck, and that my battery happens to be going to dead at the same time.

OR, that my alternator is bad again from Autozone. It goes to 12.8v when cold and gradually drops to 12.2v when warmed up.

 

[AWD_FIEND]

A little change in moods. I'm just saying "Whatever, I guess." I'll figure out what's wrong with it eventually. I don't hate my car that much...I hate everything else that's been happening to me. My frustration also comes out with many many more issues (computer dying, buying a new one), F 150's transfer case going out (lots of miles though), and many many more problems not related to the DSM. I also smashed my finger too, and that (despite being user error) always facilitates lots of cursing and throwing of wrenches.

I am glad though that I found out that Autozone alternator was DOA, because now it made it so that it's very very easy to figure out what's going on I realized. There's obviously a short, and it's most likely the alternator plug wires because it's not blown any fuses but yet, making a considerable drain. It was just difficult to trace before because damn Autozone alternators are worth a...cough) and that caused all kinds of problems on top of the short. But anyway, I think I've got it down, I just need to take another hour or so and retrace all the wires again.

On a second note, don't buy a Honda. I went to a dealer and picked up a perfect condition certified used Civic Sedan because it's reliable. Well, I drove 30 miles, and now it's knocking and barely runs. The dealer I got it from said, "It's Certified by not under warranty." So, I am out yet another car and another $4000. It's full of oil, fluids, etc. and I didn't even drive it hard. I was on the freeway doing 65 when it started losing power. Anyway, so....yeah, don't buy Honda! I know it's probably a fluke, but I hate Honda's anyway so I like to trash on them.

I'll check the wires and post results.

YOU CANT HATE DSMs or IM GOING TO

 

[Eclipsed]

ive owned 2 dsms and i havent had a single problem with either aside from just general maintenance. hell, im still driving the gst ive had since 2002 and the only problem i have ever had was a blown AFTER MARKET turbo.

maybe im just lucky? :X

 

[Dark_Horse]

It could most definitely be the Autozone alternators. I've read stories of DSM people going through 3 or 4 Autozone units before finding one that wasn't a POS. Can you go to a junkyard and get a OEM alternator out of a junk DSM?

Or, better yet, do the Saturn Alternator mod...Allows you to use much cheaper, and much better, alternators than the ones the DSM comes with.

 

[One Equals Two]

I think I finally nailed it down. I think the ECM is bad. I tried hooking it up to my laptop again to see what the computer said, and it wont connect for anything. I guess since it wont connect, that it's dead. Problem is, is that, how do I fix DSM link? It was working okay, and now it wont respond to anything.

I am really lost here, but I guess it makes sense because the ECM is the only thing I haven't replaced yet.

 

[rush2252]

DSMlink is a chip in the ECU. Open the case of the ECM/ECU by rmeoveing the 4 philips head screws. You will see the chip on the bottom right of the EPROM ECU. THat is DSMlink. Youll need another EPROM ECU if yours is in fact bad and you will have to have the EPROM chip removed and ECM socketed to accept the DSM chip. IF thats the problem its an easy fix.

 

[One Equals Two]

Okay, (sorry guys). Whenever things seem just within reach, something else happens. So (), I picked up a VW Jetta w/122K (to replace the Honda that died, the F150 with T Case, and the DSM) and the WATER PUMP pulley snapped off 20 miles later. Maybe I should buy a bicycle. It was overheating badly, so I parked it at my work and hitched a ride home from my bro. So now I am out 4 (FOUR) cars and am still driving my fiances STS. Luckily I have enough money to fund all of this B.S. Fortunately the water pump is easy to fix, so I should be good today for a car. BUT....

Anyway, so if the mood is bad, you'll understand why.

RECAP OF THE WHOLE SITUATION:

Car: 98 GST, 6 bolt swap from a 91' GSX, 16g turbo, FMIC intercooler, turbo back 3" exhaust (ALL HEAT SHIELDS IN PLACE), new P/S pump (NO LEAKS), CAI with MAF hooked up, slim fans running all the time, 880cc injectors, 9 psi, stock BOV (waiting to get a Greddy BOV to hold the 18 psi I want)....that's basically it.

Three weeks ago? I pulled a datalog and the car was pinging at 6K rpms. Air Fuel was way lean. We didn't know why. Then it started to lean out at lower rpms a few days later, even as low as 3500 rpm. Fuel pump wasn't getting enough power and the Turbo Timer was flashing 13.1 volts while running.

So, I was like (ALTERNATOR!!) Really easy fix, or so I thought.....

I replaced the alternator with an AUTOZONE (yes AUTOZONE) alternator and it ran horribly afterwards. 11.8 volts running (no change in voltage when revved). Also it ran 11.1 volts with the engine off. I KNOW THAT IS LOW, so I suspected a short.

I traced all the wires, (and indeed found a few bare ones), taped them up...but no change.

I then checked all fuses, none blown. I replaced the battery too (no change) so I put the old one back in.

I checked the battery terminal and it burned my hand. It was a digital reading one, and it totally shorted itself out. I took it off and replaced it, but still no change. Battery terminal is fine now.

I also replaced the alternator choke, no change.

Finally I just took the old Autozone alternator back and (even though it tested fine) and I got a another one (Duralast Reman.) same one as before.

The voltmeter still read 11.1 volts ignition on but jumped to 13 volts (13 flat), and stayed there. All the warning lights went off, until 3 minutes or so later and then they all came back on, and the alternator was putting out 12.2 volts. I parked it, shut it off. Alternator was HOT. Hotter than the rest of the engine bay, meaning, the surrounding area was cooler than the alternator.

The next day I started it, and it was back to 13 volts, but the same thing happened after a few minutes. Down to 12.2 volts. NOTE: THERE IS NO CHANGE IN THE VOLTAGE WHEN I REV THE CAR. ZERO CHANGE. 12.2 volts at idle, 12.2 volts at 3800 rpms. But when it sputters, the voltage goes way low (like 11.4 volts).

Then I suspected maybe the battery was bad, so I replaced it with a really really nice commercial battery, and no change.

So I redid all the grounds (again a lot of them were dirty), but no change. Still the same symptoms as before.

So, I thought (maybe it's my AC inverter?) No change when off or on. Then I thought, (maybe it's the battery that powers the amp?) No change when out of the car. Stereo? No change when pulled.

Finally I was guessing after reading on the forums that maybe the ECM was bad. It only made sense, and that's what the guy at autozone said (one's really into DSM's and has a Talon TSi). When I tried to link up to the computer...nothing. Not even able to establish a connection...so I thought, FINALLY, that's it!

BUT!!!! I am not sure now on the computer being bad. Because the CEL comes on when the car starts, and if I gun it hard it comes on because I have it set to come on at 2 degrees knock and it pings. Also the coolant temp is working too, so...it's working... But now what?

I don't know what could possibly remain that could be the culprit..... (shrinks down and cries). Am I looking at another bad alternator? Maybe the voltage regulator is bad? I am just stumped. I am not selling the car, but if this persists, I don't know what I am going to do.... Please help guys, again. Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[One Equals Two]

I am also curious, how did this thread end up in the Hangout area? I am obviously a retarded newbie that needs help in problem solving.

 

[One Equals Two]

RESOLVED: and what a RETARDED solution.

Sometimes when you look at something, you skip the very basics. That's exactly what I did, and everyone else that looked at my car.

So, when I toasted the alternator, I failed to comprehend that this car was running on a 100 + amp alt. It has 880 injectors, electronic stuff up the wazoo, and an 1800 w alpine system. So, naturally, you'd need something a LOT more potent than a stupid 60 amp stock alternator. So, whenever I installed a 60 amp alternator, it never had a chance to keep up with the power demands. (Shakes head), what a retard I can be!!

So, up the amperage with a new alternator and I'm back on the road.

However, I already abandoned the car and am selling it. I bought RUNNING Talon instead and am enjoying the hell out of it.

 

[SpawnedX]

Welcome to DSMLand.

However:

Then I put new wheels on it (because one tire exploded), impact wrenched them on while is was on jack stands, and they came loose 30 seconds later after driving. So, I had to wobble back for an hour at 5 mph. Needless to say, I was really getting steamed at this car.

This one was because you used an impact gun to put your lugs on. You should always use a torque stick set to 80 and then use a torque wrench to torque them to spec and make sure they are all uniform.

 

[Achelea]

So, can we get a rundown?

Is the GST sold? And what's the talon? TSi FWD, AWD?

 

[One Equals Two]

GST, sale pending for $4200.

97' FWD ESi $800, mainly for reliability until I can get me an RS (not a GST or GSX). Question here, I get 33 mpg. Normal? I mean, I've seen 420a Neons get 40 mpg day in and day out, so I guess 33 isn't out of the ordinary, but it seemed higher than I anticipated.

Either or, when I pick up a clean RS (like the body more), it'll be time to boost. I'd like to have an RS-T.

I know, many will have their opinions on the 420a, but I am a Dodge man, first turbo car was a Lebaron. I also have had 2 SRT4's (one I sold). I know far more about the Neon's engine and boosted Chrylsers than I do actual Mitsubishis. I'd rather stick to something I know. So, I am sticking with the 420a build up idea with an RS, which I don't know why I didn't think of it before.

Pics of the SRT and ESi.

 

[Doubleot]

I'll buy your talon once you find an Rs.

 

[bluegs03]

haha thats funny ive owned my car now for 4 years, guess how much ive driven it.

wait for it



3 miles, yep then it broke down on me due to a oil pump problem.

and im still repairing it! haha gotta love the dsm's

 

[Achelea]

Right. Check around and find the tuners who have pushed their 420a motors and learn from them of what they did.

That said, the advantage of working on a motor with a turbo already installed is the nessasary hardware is there already.

In either case. Good luck. You'll figure something out either way.