it ran perfectly fine at the auction before I bought it

[nosdsm3]

I bought my 2g new put 50,000 miles on in the first four year I owned it as soon as the warranty was up it died. I have had it since 1999 and still love it.

 

[907gs-t]

Boost is Awesome.

 

[toxicity883]

Check the previous owners work, something could be grounding out. And at the first sign of crimp connections rip it all out and start over, solder and heat shrink ftw

 

[MOTOR-RX]

The good ole DSM life. The first one i bought i was in same boat as you.

I auctually just bought another one weds. from a auction she should be here ANYDAY now.

good luck though. If the car starts disconnect battery and see if it runs off alt. easy way to check

 

[MOTOR-RX]

also check your fuses for weak bridges!!!!

 

[One Equals Two]

Well guys, I am at a total loss..... Anything would help now......

I'll be honest (like I have a reason to lie) I am not a super expert mechanic, but I am not a complete idiot either. However, this car has been an ABSOLUTE NIGHTMARE TO DEAL WITH.

BOTH alternators seemed to check out fine.
BOTH batteries also check out fine.
All the connections are clean and give 12.54 volts with the ignition off. As soon as it's on, they ALL go down to 11.5.
The voltmeter indicated no shorts of any kind.
ALL of the fuses were intact and the correct amperage. I pulled every single one out as well, and no change in voltage so I couldn't single anything out..
Both battery terminals are making good connections
All of the wires are intact and together.
I cleaned every electrical contact I could find, and the only difference now is that the alarm works. Problem is, is that I don't have a keyfob, so, now my alarm doesn't go off!!! Bangs head...
Stereo is just fine, and doesn't draw an excess of amps either and all of the connections are clean and good. Sigh....

I HAVE ONE FINAL GUESS. I wasn't able to test it because I had to leave. One day when I was looking at the engine compartment wondering why my digital battery terminal wasn't displaying anything, I grabbed it to see if it was loose or something. It burned the hell out of my hand and left blisters. I ran into the house and tended to my burn. I came back out the next day and it was displaying 19.99 volts (malfunctioning) but has never heated up since. BUT, AND IT'S A BIG BUT, that is the day my low voltage issues started up. So, since I replaced that battery with a brand new one (and that both of them checked out fine), I think the actual culprit is the AMP battery. I think it shorted out and died. I didn't even realize it had an amp battery until I removed the battery terminal from the engine bay but still managed to zap a few things. Tell me what you guys think... Thanks for helping me..and helping me get my DSM on the road to running again. !!

 

[talon913]

did you unbolt the 80amp fuse that has like 1 bolt on each side???cause i was haveing the same exact problem and thats what it was the fuse is black so you wouldnt know its good unless you look realy close

 

[khartley]

Did you have the alternator checked while the car was running, or out of the car being tested on a machine?

My alternator was reading 9.5v on the car at idle, but yet it still passed the auto parts store test. Basically it was doing fine when it wasn't under load, but it couldn't keep up when it was under load.

Replace the alternator, if its out anyways, might as well throw a new one in it, so you don't have to worry about it. Most have a lifetime warranty anyways, so one you replace it, keep your reciept.. you won't have to buy it ever again One less thing to worry about.

 

[One Equals Two]

did you unbolt the 80amp fuse that has like 1 bolt on each side???cause i was haveing the same exact problem and thats what it was the fuse is black so you wouldnt know its good unless you look realy close

My alternator fuse is 100 amp, and from what I remember, I didn't have an 80 amp fuse...maybe a difference between 2g and 1g? But, I didn't try unbolting it and replacing it, so I'll try that. Also my fuse was Green if I remember correctly. Sorry, the car is at my shop so it's not like I can just go outside and look.

Did you have the alternator checked while the car was running, or out of the car being tested on a machine?

My alternator was reading 9.5v on the car at idle, but yet it still passed the auto parts store test. Basically it was doing fine when it wasn't under load, but it couldn't keep up when it was under load.

Replace the alternator, if its out anyways, might as well throw a new one in it, so you don't have to worry about it. Most have a lifetime warranty anyways, so one you replace it, keep your reciept.. you won't have to buy it ever again One less thing to worry about.

My first original alternator (looks like it could be the original with the car at 119K) would jump the voltage to 12.6 and with the engine off, it was 10.9-11.1 or something I think. I put the Duralast remanufactured alternator in and the voltage only went up to 11.5 afterwards. Both tested okay on the bench.

GUESS, I guess what I am thinking is, is that the AMP battery is dead, and at the same time, the alternator is fried (both of them for some odd reason) because the voltage on the battery is good when the ignition is off, but when it's on, the voltage drops so there is an obvious drain on the car. I don't have the power steering leak, or bad connections, or any of the common "alternator killers" on my car.

 

[talon913]

yea you right it probly is different but i know mine was a black 80amp and when i tested my alternator and battery they worked great and i had good ampage for a while till my battery diead again..have you tried taking the negative wire off while the car is running..if it cuts off then i would think its maybe that fuse cause they blow out fairly easy with a system.thats how i blew mine with my system dont know if to much voltage pulling from the alt or what..im like 75%positive that it could be the fuse cause i was having every little symptom..but i could be wrong just trynna help

 

[One Equals Two]

I know you're all trying to help and I appreciate it. I am going to try the fuse and fusible link tomorrow to see if that works...I hope so.

 

[eclipse-gs-t]

dude those little problems that you are having can happened to any used car now there is more things that you have to get done before doing performance, i can tell you that you will have fun with your car so DO NOT SELL YOUR DSM.

I had the same problem and it was my alternator fuse which is blue and is 100 amp

 

[One Equals Two]

Okay guys, I am stumped and getting angry again.

I replaced the fusible link/alternator choke....even though the old one tested out just fine. I checked the alternator contact points and connections and they were good. I also checked the fuses again. My f***** alarm wouldn't shut off even after I disconnected the battery terminal. So I removed the entire alarm "box". I disconnected the amp battery too. NO CHANGE IN ANYTHING!!! Actually that's a lie, now it wont even start even thought the battery is charged. So, it's obviously worse now. I give up....what the f*** else can it be?

Still 11.1 v when the ignition is on but 12.4 when it's off. Since none of the fuses are blown I can't imagine that there is a short anywhere but at this point I have no idea. HELP!!!

 

[cardot33]

I feel your pain. I bought my car almost a month ago now, and I was supposed to be able to drive it right off the trailer. nope, I haven't driven it more than down the road and back. its really frustrating and when your car just doesn't run it puts you in a rough spot.

 

[96eclipzGsT]

Okay guys, I am stumped and getting angry again.

I replaced the fusible link/alternator choke....even though the old one tested out just fine. I checked the alternator contact points and connections and they were good. I also checked the fuses again. My f***** alarm wouldn't shut off even after I disconnected the battery terminal. So I removed the entire alarm "box". I disconnected the amp battery too. NO CHANGE IN ANYTHING!!! Actually that's a lie, now it wont even start even thought the battery is charged. So, it's obviously worse now. I give up....what the f*** else can it be?

Still 11.1 v when the ignition is on but 12.4 when it's off. Since none of the fuses are blown I can't imagine that there is a short anywhere but at this point I have no idea. HELP!!!

Of course the voltage will drop when the ignition is on, because everything is powered, radio, ECU, fuel, etc. What does it do when you try to start it? Do the dash lights go dim? how about headlights? Cooling fans slow?

I had the same headache for a while, same burn on hand from battery terminal. Not starting, leaving me stranded.

The problem was the positive BATTERY TERMINAL! I cleaned it all I could, with a knife, baking soda wire brush, even a wiz wheel, it would still short out. Finally I replaced both terminals and don't have anymore problems.

 

[jjm96gst]

Just treat her right and she will love you back

 

[rEclipserGST]

Is the only problem the low voltage? Does the car still drive? Why did you have to limp home when the car should have a hand jack and tools to tighten your lugs?

 

[1fst2g]

Just to clear some things up, can you describe what the problem is? You said the voltage is 11v when the ignition is on and 12v when it's off - this hardly seems like a problem. The car won't start now but before you removed the alarm and amp battery it would start? I think you'll get some more help after people decide to quit telling you to keep it and when they understand what is actually going on with the car...I still don't understand the initial problem:

Then, 2 days later, my battery looks like it's going to take a crap, or the alternator.

hard to turn over? dim lights? smoke coming from the rear-view mirror? what's going on?

 

[GsXtC21]

Don't give up bro, she'll take care of you for taking care of her...

 

[One Equals Two]

I had the same headache for a while, same burn on hand from battery terminal. Not starting, leaving me stranded.

The problem was the positive BATTERY TERMINAL! I cleaned it all I could, with a knife, baking soda wire brush, even a wiz wheel, it would still short out. Finally I replaced both terminals and don't have anymore problems.

So, maybe it is the battery terminal shorting out? Wow, I'd be so happy if that was the case. I will try that, just for the hell of it.

Is the only problem the low voltage? Does the car still drive? Why did you have to limp home when the car should have a hand jack and tools to tighten your lugs?

The previous guy removed anything to do with the jack, spare tires, lug wrench etc to fit the stereo battery in. I pulled the tools out of my Chrysler and put them all in the back seat floor after I got back.

Just to clear some things up, can you describe what the problem is? You said the voltage is 11v when the ignition is on and 12v when it's off - this hardly seems like a problem. The car won't start now but before you removed the alarm and amp battery it would start? I think you'll get some more help after people decide to quit telling you to keep it and when they understand what is actually going on with the car...I still don't understand the initial problem:



hard to turn over? dim lights? smoke coming from the rear-view mirror? what's going on?

I agree, I don't care if they think I should keep the car. If I can't get it running, I am not keeping it, it's as simple as that.

So the problem is, is that the voltage only climbs to 11.5 v when the car is running. So, when the car is off and it has 12.4 ish volts, there's obviously a heavy drain coming from somewhere. It would start just fine when the alarm was in and the amp battery was installed, but now, I got nothing. I don't have the clicking of the solenoid of the whirr of the starter motor. I've NEVER had the car not start on me, it's always started, and started strong. But the low voltage is the only issue here, and it runs badly to because of it. I can't hit boost or anything because the pump doesn't have enough power.

All the lights are fine (bright) all of the instruments are on and "strong" like the radiator fan and blower motor.

(I DON'T THINK IT'S THE ALTERNATOR) Here's why. I always have a charged battery at the end of the day, even after 35 minutes of driving it. Also replacing the old one with a new one did nothing. I also don't have dim dash lights coming on or anything.

(I DON'T THINK IT'S THE BATTERY) Because, again, it's got juice when I start it and always has 12.4 volts when sitting. Also, I've installed a new battery with no difference.

(I DON'T THINK IT'S THE ALTERNATOR FUSE) Because, both I have are testing good, and no difference with a new one.

(I DON'T THINK THERE IS A SHORT) Because, none of my fuses are blown.



I HAVE A FEW MORE GUESSES.
One, the ECU. One guy on here had the same problem as me, and he said he replaced the ECU and the problem went away. Problem with that is, is that I have DSM link which I think is the replacement for the ECU, so, I would need a new DSM link chip.....

Two, the battery terminal I guess could be the issue here. I hope so, cause it's cheap. Thing is though, it's not getting hot anymore.

Three, I may just have bad luck and have 2 bad batteries and 2 bad alternators...

I am totally stumped.....Thanks for the advice though..

 

[1fst2g]

I would open the ECU up and see if there is any visible damage to the circuit board (melted capacitors, burn marks, ect...) If it's bad I don't see why you can't take the chip/socket off and install it on another eprom ecu, unless the chip itself is bad. The battery short might have caused some damage to the ECU...


I'd work on getting the car started first though.

All the lights are fine (bright) all of the instruments are on and "strong" like the radiator fan and blower motor.

So, you have power in the car but when you try to start it it shuts off?

 

[jjrock5]

I bought my 2g new put 50,000 miles on in the first four year I owned it as soon as the warranty was up it died. I have had it since 1999 and still love it.

Did you know there are countless tests being made by manufacturers out there that determine the 'good' life cycle of a car? Once they determine the life of it, they base this knowledge on how long the warranty of the car should be. Oh and 'coincidently' they break off the warranty as soon as their experts determine the car will start having serious issues...bastards.

 

[One Equals Two]

I'd work on getting the car started first though.

So, you have power in the car but when you try to start it it shuts off?

I have power to the inside, but not the starter. No dimming of the lights or anything, I turn the key and nothing (and I really mean nothing) happens. The alarm is preventing it from starting, and there is no way to deactivate it because the last owner lost the fob. I am steaming at the previous idiot who had this car.... Why do these aftermarket pieces of s*** behave like this?

When I disconnected the alarm, the starter also lost power.

 

[rEclipserGST]

I have power to the inside, but not the starter.

When I disconnected the alarm, the starter also lost power.

Ever thing you broke a bridge of power by disconnecting it? I would trade my TPS problem for this little electrical dilemma you are having.

What's the problem with reconnecting the alarm? Did you think the alarm was draining power or something?

 

[1fst2g]

he couldn't shut it off...