it ran perfectly fine at the auction before I bought it

[One Equals Two]

Ever thing you broke a bridge of power by disconnecting it? I would trade my TPS problem for this little electrical dilemma you are having.

What's the problem with reconnecting the alarm? Did you think the alarm was draining power or something?

The alarm wasn't any part of the issue to begin with. But when I went through and cleaned all of the contact points to make sure everything was clean (making sure nothing was getting poor contact and causing the low voltage), the alarm came back on because it's contact point was dirty and wasn't getting power initially. Then I set it off when I opened the hatch and now I have no way of deactivating it. I disconnected the battery and it didn't reset it. So I removed the fuse and it still went off. I tried unlocking the doors, starting the car (it started but the alarm was still going off), etc, but nothing turned it off. So I removed the alarm module entirely, but now since the starter was wired through the alarm, it wont start anymore.

 

[rEclipserGST]

o0o0o0o0o easy fix, rewire it. haha

 

[1fst2g]

that sucks man. you obviously have to rewire the starter; there must be a relay somewhere that was installed with the alarm that allows power to the starter. If you can find that you can bypass/remove it and hopefully solve this issue. my guess is under the dash connected to the ignition wire. I'll try to find out what color it is...

ah here you go: Aftermarket Alarm/Remote Start/Turbo Timer Install Wiring Diagram

 

[One Equals Two]

that sucks man. you obviously have to rewire the starter; there must be a relay somewhere that was installed with the alarm that allows power to the starter. If you can find that you can bypass/remove it and hopefully solve this issue. my guess is under the dash connected to the ignition wire. I'll try to find out what color it is...

Yeah, I know it's what I have to do, but I don't want to....especially since the initial problem is still not solved.

 

[1fst2g]

I can understand your discouragement but all I can say is one step at a time. The starter issue shouldn't be too difficult and you sound like you have enough knowledge to take care of it. Hopefully some other guys can lend some good advice. Take a look and let us know what's up.

 

[DailySchedMaint]

Looks at my name** Well at least the work pays off in the end, As long as you take car of the car, it should be ok.

 

[icekilla126]

Sry to here about ## problems. I feel for yeah I have been threw a motor a melted wiring harness now my turbo is going bad this is over the course of a year.

 

[One Equals Two]

Okay guys, making progress but still not completely done yet.

So, SIGH, I rewired the starter and it starts just fine now. No more alarm problem, YEAH!!! That damn thing was about to drive me to drink, if I could drive that is. Anyway, I still have the low voltage issue and it runs really really rough. Twice as bad as before. I am going back to some basics though.

One, what is the average base voltage for a car with the ignition on ENGINE OFF, radiator fans on, and interior lights on? Ball park. I am sitting at 10.9 on a fully charged battery (two different ones as well, just to make sure it's not the battery). If voltage is supposed to be around 12.2-5 (which correct me if I am wrong, but I think that's it), then I am getting a serious drain when the ignition is switched on. Obviously, 11.8 volts is too low for a running car and a new alternator. Both alternators ran the car at 11.8 volts, so I am confused there too.

My question is really this. If I have a short, then I should have a blown fuse or symptoms of a drain right? But I have neither. No blown fuses (replaced them anyway), and no signs of a short anywhere (tested with a voltmeter). So, what could it possibly be? I've done everything I could find in the forum, but to no avail at all.




So, my last resort is the ECM. How do I check if it's bad? And, where is the damn thing? I can't find it to save my own life. Thanks a bunch, I have a feeling I'll nail this problem really soon.

 

[1fst2g]

As you know the battery puts out 12v...so if you're running a couple electronic devices you should have some voltage drop. However, when the alternator is running you should see around 13v (if i remember correctly). Wait, so you're running two alternators simultaneously??

So, my last resort is the ECM. How do I check if it's bad? And, where is the damn thing? I can't find it to save my own life. Thanks a bunch, I have a feeling I'll nail this problem really soon.

It's behind the radio. If you're sitting in the passenger seat it'll be near you're left knee.

 

[96mitsugsx]

Do you have a test light? If you do, check for battery drain while pulling out the fuses one by one.

 

[One Equals Two]

As you know the battery puts out 12v...so if you're running a couple electronic devices you should have some voltage drop. However, when the alternator is running you should see around 13v (if i remember correctly). Wait, so you're running two alternators simultaneously??


It's behind the radio. If you're sitting in the passenger seat it'll be near you're left knee.

I know it should have some voltage drop, but the question is, how much? Should the fans and dash lights drop the voltage an entire 1.5 volts? And when I turn the headlights on, there is no drop, and when I turn every other light on in the car, no drop. I'm only running one alternator, but I have two (I changed them out) to make sure it's not the alternator either.

Do you have a test light? If you do, check for battery drain while pulling out the fuses one by one.

I don't have a test light, but, I guess I could pull out each fuse one by one and see if the drain stops. That should point out the problem right?

Anyway, I am going to try the computer. I figured, it's my only other guess. If that's not it, I think I'll just wait until I get the motivation to tackle it again.

 

[1fst2g]

this is a long shot but check the wiring on the fuel pump. maybe the previous owner rewired it and there is a bad connection somewhere (bad ground, short, ect...)

 

[One Equals Two]

You may be a genius, the fuel pump is rewired straight to the battery!! I remember because some guy that does DSM's here in Utah explained why it was directly wired to it. I hope you're right. I'll check when I can.

 

[One Equals Two]

Well guys, I can't fathom a guess anymore. I am so lost.

So, it's been a while since I was able to work on the car, but I got the chance recently and spent quite a few hours AGAIN working on fixing the electrical bug of low voltage.

Well, new terminals, fuses all around, fusible links, all bare wires taped up, fuel pump was fine, no drains anywhere....and a hell of a lot of trouble shooting elsewhere, and NOTHING. 11.1 volts with the ignition on/motor off, and 11.8 volts ignition on/motor on. The car fired up with no trouble after sitting for week and everything seemed fine, EXCEPT FOR THE VOLTAGE. The voltage was verified using another voltmeter besides the turbo timer, and it was accurate.

I am seriously just going to replace the alternator again with a new one because there is no other option that makes sense. My first alternator was showing signs of dying (first started leaning out at 6K rpms), then at 4K a few days later, and then couldn't hit boost or else it'd completely stall. It was registering at 12.6 volts with the motor on and 12.4 with the motor off when I pulled it. But then after I put the new one in, 11.8 volts motor on, 11.1 motor off. I think it came with a bad voltage regulator. Nothing else makes sense. Please tell me if there is anything I am missing. Thanks guys!

 

[JayRolla]

Bring it down and have the new alt tested. If you bought it at a local parts store im not surprised at all its dead. I have ran junkyard OEM alt's for years and they last a lot longer than the part store crap.

 

[One Equals Two]

I agree OEM is the way to go. I bought a washer pump for $83 from Toyota in 2002 and it's still working in my truck. I doubt a Duralast one would make it that far. I think I may drop $200-$300 in an OEM alternator and never worry again.

 

[My90tsiawd]

For your everheating issue I would really check the alternator fan fuse. As others said maybe you would more fan power but the fuse is easy to check. And you got to keep this car it is so fun to drive when it runs right. I am curently trying to get mine running . I seem to enjoy this car more now that I have another one that I can rely on though.

 

[STEVEn95tsi]

mann...i know what you mean.. i had my talon for about 100 miles and the engine BLEW!!!...day after day...part after part...it was getting so bad...then i found out that my computer had a bad ground...i fixed...and DAM... lambo killer...

 

[91_tsi_talon]

Wow your tire exploded thats unusual were you getting alot of wheel spin when you hammered on it try using nitrogen in your next set of tires it does not expand when its heated like air there as there is no moisture in it.

also about the voltage problem have you tried to disconnect the stereo and run it???

and i think about the over heating the fan has two speeds on it are both speeds working??

 

[rush2252]

It honestly sounds like a bad ground to me. I havent read the entire thing again but is the battery in the stock location and does it hold at least 10.8 volts under a load? I wouldnt rule out the new parts either I slung parts for about 5 years and ran into new parts being bad off the shelf several times. The parts exchange hands numerous times before you recieve them as a consumer you never know how many idiots have dropped it or swapped it.

 

[One Equals Two]

Well, I don't know about this now.

So I took back the previous alternator and got a new one. I don't know if this is a good thing. 11.1 volts at a stand still (ignition on/motor off), 12.8 volts running motor. I haven't driven it, but it seems a little better. I mean, it's at least not flashing "What the hell kind of voltage is this?" I only ran the car for 15 seconds, so I haven't seen if it changes with speed.

When I started the car, it went from 11.2 volts, and then then steadily climbed to 12.8 and stayed there. I know that is low, but the fans are running all the time, and there is also an amplifier battery so that might be low as well.

One question: Would my batteries that are probably low right now (starting the car 2 or 3 dozen times and not having much recharge time) cause a slight lower voltage until it charges?

But the big question is......SHOULD I CONSIDER MYSELF GOOD?

 

[One Equals Two]

It honestly sounds like a bad ground to me. I havent read the entire thing again but is the battery in the stock location and does it hold at least 10.8 volts under a load? I wouldnt rule out the new parts either I slung parts for about 5 years and ran into new parts being bad off the shelf several times. The parts exchange hands numerous times before you recieve them as a consumer you never know how many idiots have dropped it or swapped it.

Yes the battery is in the stock location and holds a charge of 11.1 volts with the ignition on but the motor not running.

Wow your tire exploded thats unusual were you getting alot of wheel spin when you hammered on it try using nitrogen in your next set of tires it does not expand when its heated like air there as there is no moisture in it.

also about the voltage problem have you tried to disconnect the stereo and run it???

and i think about the over heating the fan has two speeds on it are both speeds working??

There is no stereo in it. Also, the fans are running full speed all the time. The overheating was solved with the radiator cap.

Also, I was on the freeway doing 55 mph when it exploded on a 70 degree day. I think it was just a s*** tire.

 

[One Equals Two]

I officially hate my g**d*** no good motherf***** piece of s***hell bred little lame a** excuse of a car, called a GS-T.

So Autozone gave me a bad alternator...so when I replaced it the coltage was up but not to where it should have been 12.6 volts running. After I ran it around, it went up to about 13v so I was relieved. Then, it stalled coming out of the garage. I started it and I was right back to 11.8 v again... I felt the alternaotr and it was HOT HOT HOT. Toast. Burnt, dead. There are NO F***** traces of drain anywhere. Nothing on the voltmeter..... I hate my car it's as good as gone unless I get a solution.

 

[ghostwritr]

+1 on checking all the grounds.

 

[AWD_FIEND]

Dude seriously, non of those issues are earth-shattering. I know all of those problems are frustrating to deal with but they can't count against the car. They were all operator error starting with buying a car from dealer trade-in throw away auctions. All those cars have issues!