It got worse (clutch issues)

[Maroon98gst]

98 eclipse gst.. Original problem, clutch pedal sucked to floor randomly, wouldn't come all the way back up on it's own, an slipped in high gear when building boost. First fix, replaced both clutch cylinders. Now after replacing cylinders clutch slips with just increased throttle an it still will not come all the way out... It feels like clutch doesn't fully disengage... I have no idea what else to do an don't wanna replace clutch but if I have to I will... Let me know what u guys think any help greatly appreciated

 

[bryanwheat]

Does the pedal get real stiff when it is slipping? If not and it isn't returning and slipping with new hydraulics than I would assume there is an issue with the clutch. I would drop the trans and check everything out.

 

[Maroon98gst]

Is that pretty much the last thing could be....also the piece that the slave cylinder pushes on, should u be able to move that with a finger.

 

[nismoz]

Is that pretty much the last thing could be....also the piece that the slave cylinder pushes on, should u be able to move that with a finger.

No. Not if you mean push the fork in by your finger. Hint as to why they use hydraulic pressure to do it.

 

[Maroon98gst]

Haha oh ya wow I feel dumb after reading your reply... So I called a buddy an were gona bleed it again tmr from bottom to top. if that dosnt work then gona check out the trans. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

[slickers111]

Sounds like it wasnt bled.
Meaning, the old cylinders could have let air get into the line, causing it do drop, then when you replaced the cylinders, you may not have bench bled them, then fully bled the lines.

You were linked to a Proper Clutch Petal adjustment video on your intro page.
After you bled the lines, you should only have to adjust the clutch petal push rod.(Inside the car)

 

[spyderdrifter]

I say your issue could potentially be one of these:

*Clutch not bleed fully (bleed clutch line)
*Clutch fork pivot ball adjusted too much therefore not allowing clutch to fully disengage (readjust pivot ball)
*Pressure plate fingers too weak to disengage clutch disc quickly (replace pressure plate)

 

[Maroon98gst]

What is the pivot ball ?

 

[spyderdrifter]

It's a ball shaped screw (kinda like a shoulder or hip ball joint) that the clutch fork sits on inside the trans bell housing. When you push the clutch pedal, the fluid pushes on the fork and it is centered on the ball so it can move back and forth. If it is shimmed too much or too little (spaced in or out with washers) it leads to improper clutch operation.

Here's a pivot ball, and the inside view of the trans. The ball is midway on the clutch fork, behind it. Can't see it in the pic, but here's the idea.

 

[bryanwheat]

Sounds like it wasnt bled.
Meaning, the old cylinders could have let air get into the line, causing it do drop, then when you replaced the cylinders, you may not have bench bled them, then fully bled the lines.

You were linked to a Proper Clutch Petal adjustment video on your intro page.
After you bled the lines, you should only have to adjust the clutch petal push rod.(Inside the car)

If the clutch is slipping than there isn't an issue with air in the lines, either the master is adjusted too tight and isn't allowing the slave to release, or there is an issue with the clutch.

 

[Maroon98gst]

After I replaced the cylinders though it got drastically worse with the slipping. If it was just clutch wouldn't it take at least a couple days to get that much worse?

It's a ball shaped screw (kinda like a shoulder or hip ball joint) that the clutch fork sits on inside the trans bell housing. When you push the clutch pedal, the fluid pushes on the fork and it is centered on the ball so it can move back and forth. If it is shimmed too much or too little (spaced in or out with washers) it leads to improper clutch operation.

Here's a pivot ball, and the inside view of the trans. The ball is midway on the clutch fork, behind it. Can't see it in the pic, but here's the idea.

Very helpful thank you

 

[Mischif]

After I replaced the cylinders though it got drastically worse with the slipping. If it was just clutch wouldn't it take at least a couple days to get that much worse?



Very helpful thank you

It all depends. I've seen clutches start to slip gradually over weeks/months. I've also seen them go from working fine, to giving out completely in a day or two.

 

[codym]

It all depends. I've seen clutches start to slip gradually over weeks/months. I've also seen them go from working fine, to giving out completely in a day or two.

I can vouch for this: as it happened to me this week.

Last Saturday it was perfectly fine during my weekly inspection, Sunday she drove good, went to take the gf to school Monday morning and could not get it in gear and had no pressure behind the pedal.

 

[Mischif]

I can vouch for this: as it happened to me this week.

Last Saturday it was perfectly fine during my weekly inspection, Sunday she drove good, went to take the gf to school Monday morning and could not get it in gear and had no pressure behind the pedal.

Sounds like you have a leak in your system. When your clutch goes you'll be able to grab gears easily, you just wont go anywhere. A leak in your hardline or a bad master/slave will cause you to loose pedal pressure and not be able to go through the gears.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I eliminated all hard lines and the clutch accumulator for a steel braided line from Mach V. No leaks since then, and less parts to be concerned about. Makes bleeding the system a little easier too since the way I routed the clutch line, the line makes a gradual downward sloop from the master to slave. There's no loops or anything to trap air.

 

[Maroon98gst]

I eliminated all hard lines and the clutch accumulator for a steel braided line from Mach V. No leaks since then, and less parts to be concerned about. Makes bleeding the system a little easier too since the way I routed the clutch line, the line makes a gradual downward sloop from the master to slave. There's no loops or anything to trap air.

Could u explain how u did this I wanna do it once weather starts to warm up. Also where is this clutch accumulator?

 

[redi4axion]

A similar thing happened to me in the past which turned out to be mechanical. I was getting fluctuating clutch feel and fluctuating clutch slip and engagement/disengagement. It turned out that one of the clutch springs had broken and a tiny piece broke off. That piece was getting lodged in different places of the pressure plate and depending on where it was at the time of pressing the clutch determined how it would feel. you can see in the pic the spring at the 4 o'clock position is missing a piece. Its porbably the best idea to change the clutch and clutch lines like spyderdrifter said.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Basic questions not asked. When was the clutch last replace and how many miles are on the car?

If you don't know when it was last replace, no choice but to rip into it and install a new one for ease of mind= PRICELESS.
I had a similar problem once. When I come to a stop the clutch pedal will sink. I also had slipping issues. I replaced the master and slave thinking it would of solved it but, at the end it turn out my 113k mile stock clutch had finally gave out. Went with act 2100 and never looked back.
Be sure when you install the master cylinder follow the proper instructions.
Doesn't hurt to get a ss line from master to slave.

 

[Maroon98gst]

I suppose now that u say that I don't know when was last replaced an also has lil over 150k

 

[spyderdrifter]

Could u explain how u did this I wanna do it once weather starts to warm up. Also where is this clutch accumulator?

The accumulator is bolted to the front of the transmission. I'll jump on my computer in a few to search through the pics of my DSMs for the accumulator pics. I basically just unbolted the hard line from the master cylinder and pulled it carefully from the car. I decided to cut the lines in a few areas to avoid unbolting other components. Then removed the accumulator from the trans and ran the steel braid line from the master to the slave. I ran it along the fire wall and across the passenger side frame to the front side of the trans then to the slave cylinder. Was fairly simple.to do.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I couldn't find pics of mine from before I removed it. So instead, I found this in my electronic service manual so I hope it helps. The accumulator is the component listed as "clutch fluid chamber". When I removed it from ,my car, I read that it would engage the clutch sooner and be pron to hard shifts, I haven't noticed any of those in almost a year of having the accumulator gone. It took a day to get familiar with it being gone, but since then, it feels normal like it's still in there. The accumulator is only there for clutch comfort anyway.

 

[Maroon98gst]

Replacing the clutch in it hopfully fixes the problem i don't know what else it could be

 

[spyderdrifter]

Can you post pics of the clutch disc, or are you replacing the pressure plate?

 

[4g63t]

Bleeding the clutch should have nothing to do with it slipping. As stated, as long as the master is not adjusted to far with pressure on the slave before the pedal is depressed it can only be the worn out clutch.

Replacing the clutch in it hopfully fixes the problem i don't know what else it could be

This sounds like a good idea. I'm sure it got worse with the new hydraulics because it working like it should now. As long as it is adjusted properly I would think you have anything to worry about after the new clutch. What are you thinking for a clutch kit? We can help you pick a quality proven setup for your goals.

 

[drybones273]

have you bled your lines? i know with my motocross bike there are sometimes airbubbles in the lines which cause it to not return to origional position