is this a good deal for $3000.00

[clone]

it's all brand new, just built is the claim.

Stock intake manifold (head has been polished, the valves seated.)
Ferrera Titanium Valves 6000 series
HKS Titanium springs
Ferrera titanium Valve locks
Viton valve stem seals

Cometic multi layer performance head gasket

Wiseco 8:3:1 85.5mm (20 thou overbore) forged pitons & Wiseco Rings
Eagle forged connecting rods H beam
Eagle steel crankshaft
New crank and cam sensors
ACL race bearings

ARP studs, head & connecting rods

o2 stainless steel dump tube
stainless steel downtub 3in
AEM true time cam gears
Lightweight crank pully
Gates racing timing belt
New water pump with OBX light weight pullys

stock and AEM fuel rail
750cc clinic fuel injectors
Walboro 255 lph fuel pump.

Valve cover Powdercoated
Coolant pipe powder coated

the block has been cleaned, honed, crank and crank pully balanced there is a legit receipt for $950 in just cleaning, honing, balancing and re-seating valves.

is this an ok deal at $3000.00?

 

[LittleBear]

If you can drive to go see it, get some pics. And some more paper work on the whole deal.

 

[clone]

does it seem like an ok deal or if I'm more patient can I do better.

I don't need 80% of the parts, my goals with my talon were far more modest as I was only shooting for 350 hp...... these parts are all overkill and I would never have considered them on my own due to lack of interest.

my current engine is fine although it could use a new timing belt, some of the parts I was planning on getting but my overall budget was $8000.00 for the car and if I buy this motor that'll push the budget to $10,000 which is more than I'd like.

the reason I'm asking is because if it's not an "amazing deal" I have no need to buy it at all and will get by fine with my parts while having the luxury of upgrading at my own pace as the money comes in.

 

[willydsm]

If you can drive to go see it, get some pics. And some more paper work on the whole deal.

^^^ agree

 

[richardc475]

If your only shooting for 350 at the wheels use your stock engine, replace the timing belt, get some injectors, a fuel pump, evoIII 16g, and some meth. Then choose your tuning method.

 

[clone]

so basically I don't need the parts and it'll be money better spent elsewhere?

I already have the Evo III 16g turbo, an FP exhaust manifold, oil lines return and feed, manual boost controller, gasket set, and 190lph fuel pump all brand new from FP but most of these parts will work on the new stuff.

 

[boostedtwo]

I wouldnt spend the money on that engine honestly. I would spend it on a dsmlink, eprom ecu, and that will be under 1k..

 

[clone]

I need to get the DSM link and ECU anyway..... it'll be on top of the engine expense.

I wish he was local but instead lives 4 hours away and I've been trying to work out the deal via the web.

well be talking on the phone today trying to finalise the deal but as I sit back and get the chance to really pore over the expenses vs end goals with this car I just don't see the point of buying it....... I'll try to bend him over tomorrow to throw in a bunch of addiitonal parts but if I can't get them I'll have to pass on the deal.

I can afford this stuff but I don't really want it...... the kid in me screams "just buy it for petes sake" but the pragmatist won't allow it.

 

[richardc475]

so basically I don't need the parts and it'll be money better spent elsewhere?

I already have the Evo III 16g turbo, an FP exhaust manifold, oil lines return and feed, manual boost controller, gasket set, and 190lph fuel pump all brand new from FP but most of these parts will work on the new stuff.

Swap out the 190 for a 255HP, get 650 or 750cc injectors, ecmlink, an eprom, 3 bar map sensor, iat sensor, and a meth kit. And then take it all in for a Dyno tune.

 

[95gst16g]

Swap out the 190 for a 255HP, get 650 or 750cc injectors, ecmlink, an eprom, 3 bar map sensor, iat sensor, and a meth kit. And then take it all in for a Dyno tune.

If you were to get Ecmlink then you might as well just get some 1000-1600cc injectors because they are not much more and when using Ecmlink they will idle just fine.That would also insure you dont have to buy injectors 2 times for a bigger turbo setup or E-85.Also if you get a 255 you probably should get a FPR.

 

[My1GLaser]

The Eagle crank is a waste of money.
AEM fuel rail is a waste of money.
You don't want a lightweight crank pulley. If it doesn't dampen, then its junk.
There isn't any cams in the list???
9:1 CR is a much better choice, especially if you are tuning with DSMLink.

On the other hand, I have about $3500 into my built motor and this one comes with a bunch of other goodies.

I would rather do the actual building myself, so I can physically measure the bearing clearances. What was the piston to wall clearance? What is the ring end gap? Since its an MLS, was the block/head decked to the correct finish? Is it already assembled? What's the quench pad? (were the pistons flush with the deck, below or above; how much was shaved off the head/block?)

These are the important questions that I would be asking myself. There are many instances of pushing coolant, piston slap, excessive blowby, knock prone motor and spun bearings b/c of incorrect clearances that I wouldn't trust the motor assembly to anyone but myself. But I am a paranoid SOB if you couldn't tell.

 

[boostedtwo]

I duno, I know you can get a good block and buy the slow boy racing stroker kit for cheaper.

 

[clone]

The Eagle crank is a waste of money.
AEM fuel rail is a waste of money.
You don't want a lightweight crank pulley. If it doesn't dampen, then its junk.
There isn't any cams in the list???
9:1 CR is a much better choice, especially if you are tuning with DSMLink.

On the other hand, I have about $3500 into my built motor and this one comes with a bunch of other goodies.

I would rather do the actual building myself, so I can physically measure the bearing clearances. What was the piston to wall clearance? What is the ring end gap? Since its an MLS, was the block/head decked to the correct finish? Is it already assembled? What's the quench pad? (were the pistons flush with the deck, below or above; how much was shaved off the head/block?)

These are the important questions that I would be asking myself. There are many instances of pushing coolant, piston slap, excessive blowby, knock prone motor and spun bearings b/c of incorrect clearances that I wouldn't trust the motor assembly to anyone but myself.

what's wrong with the crank?
the fuel rail is coming free.
why does it need to dampen?
stock cams

to the question of build quality...... that's been a tough one for me..... the seller claims he's been doing it for several years and that this isn't his first engine..... while that doesn't get me going "awesome perfect" it does get me to wonder along with the parts list and coin allocation that he likely did try his best to build a super strong motor.

he mentioned it was headed for a dedicated race car, not a dragster but road course which makes some sense while his horsepower goal was only 500pony he wanted the motor to be strong and reliable.

all of the tolerance and build check is up in the air..... for a while I was going to have the engine taken straight to Magnus for a rebuild and tolerance check but do I really want to pony another $1400.00 for an engine that is likely to be built quite well?.... no.

in the end it's a gamble with regards to build quality.

I wouldnt spend the money on that engine honestly. I would spend it on a dsmlink, eprom ecu, and that will be under 1k.

I was looking at that today and hadn't factored the cost for a DSM link to be so high.

it's making me want to shy away from the engine altogether...... and makes it feel more like a luxury.

I may have found a car with a blown motor that has a DSM link, Apexi SAFC, crushed 1g bypass valve, full exhaust and a really nice set of 17" rims to me at least for $1500.00...... this has become a lot more interesting because the seller believes he's fooling ppl into thinking his car just needs the timing set when in the photo's their is no belt at all making me believe the the reality is that the belt snapped and his head and pistons are destroyed...... I'm hoping I can get the whole thing for $800 with my eye on the parts and any spares I can walk away with..... oh yeah and the rims are nice and I want.

anyway given the advice and my own reservations it looks like I'll pass and choose an alternate route..... would have been "neat" but not needed.

 

[My1GLaser]

Nothing wrong with the Eagle crank, but a waste of money if you are building a motor under 800ish hp IMO.

It needs to dampen harmonics in the crank from the rotating assembly. You might break the crank without an OEM crank pulley or a Fluidampr.

Hmmm, the car has DSMlink & an SAFC? You don't need both to tune...

 

[cdm_sd02]

I wouldn't spend the money on that block setup... Better off getting the other stuff first, i.e. link or safc/injectors/exhaust/255/etc. There are stock block setups pushing 350hp with the right tune all day long.