Is my flapper open?

[Araesk]

I got an evo3 16g and I just installed a greddy FMIC kit with a type s BOV and upon completion i decided to take it for a test drive. To my dismay, my car religiously will not allow for boost over 0psi. It will vacuum itself and my boost meter detects it, but my car won't allow boost to build over 0. I can hear the turbo turning over, and upon getting to like 4.5K RPM's the car starts to stutter like theres a massive boost leak. It just so happens thats when my car would normally reach max boost. The BOV sounds a tiny amount if i'm driving hard, but the boost will never go above 0. There are no boost leaks on the couplers or in the piping either. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

Pull on your wastegate actuator. See if it is hooked up first. If you can pull the rod easily your diaphragm is blown. A few pics might help of the turbo area. You installed the 16g and the FMIC at the same time or the 16g was already on the car?

 

[crash89]

Have you actually done a boost leak test or are you just saying there arent any because you tightened all the couplers?If it worked fine before the FMIC and now its doing that, boost leak.

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

My eyes are set on that type S BOV, hoping it is not a knock off. If he only touched the Cold side. If the turbo was swapped I am curious to see the flapper and housing casting around it.

 

[crash89]

Thats a good point! A knock off type s is friggin junk. Also to keep in mind, perhaps you have the vacuum line on the wrong port on the BOV?

 

[Spoolingaround]

Sounds like the wastegate is open. Do you have a wideband? Are your AFs looking correct?

 

[TaLN91tsI]

Pictures of your engine bay would help ident any common install issues

 

[Araesk]

Sorry for the late update, been passed out the last couple hours because not feeling well. The 16g was on there before the fmic and working beautifully. I've actually done tests, I know the TB elbow has a little leak in it cause i'm missing the top nut that screws onto the bolt. I'm going to test the BOV in a couple minutes here when i can find my damned squirt bottle. And here are pictures of the BOV (sorry for ghetto ziptie, no small couplers for the time being) and then I believe the flapper arm since it is an external wastegate.

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[DSM Chase]

Check for back pressure on your exhaust, ie collapsed flex section in downpipe. You would have to have a massive astronomical boost leak for it not to even make 1psi, it probably wouldn't even idle with a boost leak that bad, take the waste gate actuator arm off the flapper and see if it opens and closes freely.

 

[Araesk]

Well upon revisiting my couplers, if you like inthe second and third pick you can see therr is no clamp attaching the bov pipetoo the s bend towards the throttle body. Must have popped off. I retightened it and the bov making sure they stay and now im at 3psi. Im thinking it might be the throttlebody elbow really killing me. Going to grab a new bolt and clamp for the bov vacuum. As for the exhaust it sounds the exact same as it did before, same popping when reving it towards 3k in neutral.

 

[4wsaddict]

Definatly check for leaks, could even be a pin hole in the intercooler you cant see.

 

[Araesk]

I checked the diaphram and it looks like it is a real one from everything I've seen, and I quickly did the 1 spring mod on it. I redid teflon tape, and now am at the waste gate pivoter-thingymaducet. Here is a picture of what I'm talking about.

http://i.imgur.com/sHxhJR4.jpg

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

Yea I would fix the throttle elbow and go from there. A leak is a Leak and you have to start somewhere.

 

[Araesk]

Did the throttle body, didn't create much difference. I can get up to 5psi boostmax atm, if im lucky. Going to have to check the ic core soonn possibly.

 

[bryanwheat]

So have you actually done a boost leak test, or did you just look at,it and assume that it isn't leaking? Judging by how tight you have the one clamp, and the one I'm the background on the edge of the clamp I am going to assume that you have a big leak. You need to get some better hose clamps while you are at it. Worm clamps are shit in this situation.

 

[Araesk]

I did a book leak test on them, but which other clamps would i use if not worm clamps? Secondly, that wastegate arm, i cant get it back on to the actuator that it pivots on to be open or closed. Should i be able to move the whole arm or no?
Also, is my Greddy s way too tight in the picture with the adjustment but being all the way down? I have it now with like 1/3" off of the top of the bov since with 1 large spring it says 2-3 full turns from first contact on the ego forums talking about the single spring mod.

 

[bryanwheat]

I did a book leak test on them, but which other clamps would i use if not worm clamps? Secondly, that wastegate arm, i cant get it back on to the actuator that it pivots on to be open or closed. Should i be able to move the whole arm or no?

How many psi did you pressurize the system to for your test? You originally said that there were no boost leaks and you were missing one clamp, and the other is way too loose.

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

I did a book leak test on them, but which other clamps would i use if not worm clamps? Secondly, that wastegate arm, i cant get it back on to the actuator that it pivots on to be open or closed. Should i be able to move the whole arm or no?
Also, is my Greddy s way too tight in the picture with the adjustment but being all the way down? I have it now with like 1/3" off of the top of the bov since with 1 large spring it says 2-3 full turns from first contact on the ego forums talking about the single spring mod.

T-clamps FTW

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^^^The coupler under the BOV bolt doesn't look like it is clamped at all, Like half of it is sticking out. Also right under the nipple for the BOV there looks like there is another nipple facing at a 45 degree angle downwards. Is it leaking out of there?

 

[Phantom DSM]

T-clamps FTW

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^^^The coupler under the BOV bolt doesn't look like it is clamped at all, Like half of it is sticking out. Also right under the nipple for the BOV there looks like there is another nipple facing at a 45 degree angle downwards. Is it leaking out of there?

Chris i think you figured it out man ! I just saw the pics and looks like the coupler is barley hanging on the pipe. Looks like one inch of pipe lip to hold on tP get Tbolt clamps for sure like chris's pic, Redo boost leak test at higher psi like 15 and you should notice more leaks as well, if any.

 

[Araesk]

Well upon revisiting my couplers, if you like inthe second and third pick you can see therr is no clamp attaching the bov pipetoo the s bend towards the throttle body. Must have popped off. I retightened it and the bov making sure they stay and now im at 3psi.

I've already addressed that, and I'll redo my whole test later today on every coupler to make sure the same thing hasn't happened. I've gotten a new coupler for the Bov, and have adjusted all the UPIC piping so that there aren't any problems like the ones being seen currently.

I know for a fact the Bov mounting flange has 2 holes drilled from a different Bov mounted on it seems. (When I ran water through the piping to clean it all out it was pouring out from there since I didn't tighten the Bov on to squeeze the gasket flush) I'm unable to get a look there for a boost leak test because it's underneath to check if it's leaking. Thoughts?

 

[crash89]

Also right under the nipple for the BOV there looks like there is another nipple facing at a 45 degree angle downwards. Is it leaking out of there?

No, one nipple is for positive pressure to open the valve and the other is negative to open the valve. The way his is hooked up is correct, its how I have mine hooked up and I pressurize to 30+ psi.

I've already addressed that, and I'll redo my whole test later today on every coupler to make sure the same thing hasn't happened. I've gotten a new coupler for the Bov, and have adjusted all the UPIC piping so that there aren't any problems like the ones being seen currently.

I know for a fact the Bov mounting flange has 2 holes drilled from a different Bov mounted on it seems. (When I ran water through the piping to clean it all out it was pouring out from there since I didn't tighten the Bov on to squeeze the gasket flush) I'm unable to get a look there for a boost leak test because it's underneath to check if it's leaking. Thoughts?

I dont think you're performing a boost leak test correctly.. From this post it sounds like you check at every connection? If so, it is taking you entirely too long to do this task and are removing clamps that dont need to be touched..

Start with this http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/169435-boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester.html There are a lot more tutorials on youtube to check out as well..

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

No, one nipple is for positive pressure to open the valve and the other is negative to open the valve. The way his is hooked up is correct, its how I have mine hooked up and I pressurize to 30+ psi.

Ah I see, not familiar with that type of BOV.

I've already addressed that, and I'll redo my whole test later today on every coupler to make sure the same thing hasn't happened. I've gotten a new coupler for the Bov, and have adjusted all the UPIC piping so that there aren't any problems like the ones being seen currently.

I know for a fact the Bov mounting flange has 2 holes drilled from a different Bov mounted on it seems. (When I ran water through the piping to clean it all out it was pouring out from there since I didn't tighten the Bov on to squeeze the gasket flush) I'm unable to get a look there for a boost leak test because it's underneath to check if it's leaking. Thoughts?

You can't hear air escaping? any pictures of these extra holes?

 

[Bud92gsx]

Umm hey buddy your missing a vacume line on that bov..I used a t fitting for my type s..The bov wouldnt go off untill it was hooked up right.

Lets adress that first.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I have that greddy s, check out the wg mine was bad replaced it and all good now.

 

[Araesk]

What I read is that its simply a vapor return line from the Bov, and doing the single spring mod should get rid of having to connect it. But I do the simple water and soap on the lines and have someone hit the throttle. Unfortunately with school and work I'm busy and not able to get around to trying the test again until at least like late night tomorrow. I'll look around a little farther and try to figure something else out.