Is my flapper open?

[Araesk]

I got an evo3 16g and I just installed a greddy FMIC kit with a type s BOV and upon completion i decided to take it for a test drive. To my dismay, my car religiously will not allow for boost over 0psi. It will vacuum itself and my boost meter detects it, but my car won't allow boost to build over 0. I can hear the turbo turning over, and upon getting to like 4.5K RPM's the car starts to stutter like theres a massive boost leak. It just so happens thats when my car would normally reach max boost. The BOV sounds a tiny amount if i'm driving hard, but the boost will never go above 0. There are no boost leaks on the couplers or in the piping either. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Phantom DSM]

Are you testing with motor on and having a friend hit the throttle? Thats gonna be difficult to hear certain boost leaks. Try thi out, build yourself a boost leak tester and hook it up on turbo with an air compressor, just watch the pressure not to go over 15 psi, you can buy a gauge for the tester also, or have a friend watch the boost gauge inside car How To: Boost leak tester for $5.02 - evolutionm.net

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

I boost leak test to 30 psi?

 

[Phantom DSM]

I boost leak test to 30 psi?

Me too, but just keeping it conservative at 15 bro, then he can go higher if needed.

 

[Araesk]

Quick update before hitting the hay tonight. Got the flapper arm back on and pinned (a little harder than I thought considering I wasn't pulling it over while pushing it on), and decided to turn the car on to check the Bov. After cupping my ears and putting them on the Bov, over the roar of the engine I could hear hissing. No pressure was being sucked in through the back nipple, so it must be the two holes that were drilled in the bottom from the prior owner. Going to pop the Bov off tomorrow after school and drop some j.b. weld in the extra tiny drilled holes for the mounting prior then use some black silicon gasket maker around everything to try to aid the gasket already there.
It would be my luck the one thing I didn't test turns out to be the major leak in the system.

 

[bryanwheat]

What I read is that its simply a vapor return line from the Bov, and doing the single spring mod should get rid of having to connect it. But I do the simple water and soap on the lines and have someone hit the throttle. Unfortunately with school and work I'm busy and not able to get around to trying the test again until at least like late night tomorrow. I'll look around a little farther and try to figure something else out.

This is Not a boots leak test. You will never get it anywhere close to leak free doing this. It is impossible, you are wasting your time. Please take the time and listen to the people here who are telling you how to fix your car. Your car will run 100 times better than it ever has. The bov will make a hissing noise at idle, because it is being partially open by engine vacuum the bottom nipple is just to set the bov up with a fast release setup. It doesn't have to be hooked to anything. Do not block off the lower nipple of else the bov won't work at all. The type s is basically the same setup as a 1g bov except the 1g bov has the chamber that the lower nipple goes to connected to a passage that goes inside the bov to the flange. When you do a dodge garage mod on a 1 g bov you are just adding the extra nipple.

 

[Araesk]

Will do, thanks.
Follow-up: Turned out to be the BoV 2 extra holes that were drilled that were the major leaks. I took the BOV off the flange, and sure enough the gasket left about 1/3 of the holes open on each side of the middle ring meaning air was just escaping out those. Still going to do a proper boost leak test here in the near future, get rid of all remaining leaks to optimize my system. Thanks for everyone's response with continually bantering my head into the wall about boost leak tests and how to actually do them properly. Kind of embarrassing that it was something so simple.