Is my clutch toast?

[dpok69]

Is my clutch toast? 2g dsm gs-t with a lsd

When I was on the highway and in third gear at 4000 rpm with no boost and punch it, the engine gets very loud and and rpms climb rapidly to 7000-8000 with boost at 20lbs. During this, the car does not seem to be pulling as hard as the rpms indicate. At other gears under no boost or low boost the car moves fine.

I just bought this car a couple of weeks ago and it came with an act2600 clutch. If it is the clutch, what do you guys recommend, and what would be the going rate at a shop to do the install? Thanks in advance .

Sorry, I am a noob. I had a Buick Grand National before this and it is nowhere as complicated as these cars, but going through these forums, you dsm guys seem to now your stuff!

 

[gst96spyderman]

Doubt its your clutch. You'd be doing what is stated in 3rd gear in all gears... Might be 3rd gear synchros... You my friend are losing 3rd gear... I lost 2nd and reverse shifting too hard. If so... Time for a rebuild. Double synchro gear 1-3 if you ask me

 

[_MACE_]

Is the clutch pedal engaging near to the floor or almost all the way out?

 

[dpok69]

It does this in a any gear as long as the rpms are kept high, in which my boost is like between 13-20lbs and it sounds like my car is free revving (it still moves, but not as fast as it sounds). If I am not in higher boost and rpm the car drives normal.

I do have a big turbo installed a pte 5857, and fidenza flywheel. The previous owner also installed new synchros.

What I thought was happening was when I reached boost, the car was creating too much HP and slipping the clutch. previous owner estimated the hp to be about 430.

Also after the drive I smell something burnt. I presumed that to be the clutch. Correct me if I am wrong.

The clutch engages when pedal is nearly up.

 

[_MACE_]

There is 1 smell that is unmistakable. Clutch is burnt out dude.
Now they gotta drop the tranny to replace the clutch somebody fried. Its gonna run about 600 bucks. Make sure they order the right flywheel.

oh snap. Its engaging all the way up? It wont last long now........................fix it

 

[gst96spyderman]

Affirmative on clutch.

Short term fix to get car to shop. Behind clutch pedal is located. There is a small diameter threaded bolt. If you unscrew it as much as possible, this might get you to a safe house. This might and might not work. Worked for me for about 20 miles. But be carful going uphill.

 

[dpok69]

Damn!

I've been driving the car like this since the day I bought it with clutch pedal engagement high. I did not know anything was wrong. I probably only put about 30 miles on the car since I bought it and did not boost it much. Good thing it is not my daily driver.

Hopefully I will be able to drive it home safely today from work.

What is the clutch you guys usually use as a durable replacment?

Forgot to mention previous owner put in a act2600 clutch. Also I had an oil leak from loose valve cover which I cleaned up with degreaser. It was all over the engine, would it have made its way down to the clutch and contaminated it?

 

[_MACE_]

Damn!

I've been driving the car like this since the day I bought it with clutch pedal engagement high. I did not know anything was wrong. I probably only put about 30 miles on the car since I bought it and did not boost it much. Good thing it is not my daily driver.

Hopefully I will be able to drive it home safely today from work.

What is the clutch you guys usually use as a durable replacment?

Forgot to mention previous owner put in a act2600 clutch. Also I had an oil leak from loose valve cover which I cleaned up with degreaser. It was all over the engine, would it have made its way down to the clutch and contaminated it?

It may last a week or maybe a year, clutches are weird like that. Do some googling to determine the best clutch for your horsepower rating and driving style, I think you may run a stage 3 clutch. thats alot of horsepower.
I dont think it was contaminated by oil, but order a new gasket anyway.
at least it wasnt the engine
nice car dude.

 

[dpok69]

Thanx alot!

From the brief research I did, I think I will be going with a
XTD Stage 4 solid 6-puck clutch. I heard some bad things about the fidenza 4.3 and also the act2600 clutch.

I used to have a 1990 gst with a centerforce df clutch back in the days (10 years ago) that survived my abuse. But it does not look like a popular choice these days.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Does seems like your clutch. I would recommend not adjusting anything at this point until you have a new clutch install.

I wonder how your car would look wingless since you have that back windsheild visor.

 

[gst96spyderman]

+1 on ACT clutch being crap... They are pretty good if you're in the 300-375 area, but you sound like you have a pretty big setup. Go big and go strong.

Hyundai valve cover replacement. That should stop oil leak. pretty easy install.

 

[psx]

sounds like your clutch is slipping

 

[khartley]

Your clutch is engaging all the way up because it is not properly adjusted. There is an adjustment on the master cylinder, you will have to be upside down with your feet on your seat and your head resting against the brake pedal to see it. I believe it is a 12mm bolt that you loosen, then you twist the adjusting rod in our out... I can't remember which way you need to do it. Search 'clutch pedal adjustment' and get more info on that. But you need to do that.

FYI, ACT is not that bad if you make sure you have enough clutch for your setup. I've been running a 2600 with a 4 puck disc with my stroker motor and its holding up fine.

My experience with slipping clutches is that if its slipping.. you know. It will be like you went into neutral for a second. Also, the smell is unmistakable.. it will smell like you went into a hair shop where someone was getting a perm.

I would suggest you drain your tranny fluid, see if it has metal in it or smells burnt. And get that clutch adjusted. Then go from there.

Please be wary of some of the advice you get, new members seem to get a little desperate for post counts sometimes.

 

[dpok69]

I haven't driven the car much. But I did notice when the clutch is about half way and let out slowly the car starts to move, but the full engagement is up higher.

I does feel like the engine free revving when boost is above like 10 lbs. The car starts to pull like a freight train then suddenly the engine rpms shoot up quickly and engine gets real loud without car pulling hard anymore. After I park i smell the funny burnt smell.

I will have to have someone look at it, preferably a dsmer. Maybe all it needs is the adjustment?

Also my clutch reservoir is just above minimum. But from my understanding that only comes into play when stepping on the clutch not after the clutch is already engaged. I will add some more fluid later.

On a side note, the day I bought the car and my friend drove it home for me he said the clutch pedal got floored and stuck (like it lost pressure) and he had to get his foot under the pedal and lift it back up. Since I have been driving it around, that has never happened to me, but in fairness I did change some of the vacuum lines that looked weak\cracked before I drove it, if that had any effect.

It is getting cold here in NY, and I am not looking forward to changing the clutch out myself and may not do so myself if thats the problem, especially since I never did it before. On the other hand a ton of money is being saved if I do it myself.

I appreciate the advice... Thanks

 

[gst96spyderman]

I still think your clutch is going out... Same thing happened to me, same diagnosis, and result is toast clutch... I agree on the part about checking fluid for metal, as well as readjusting clutch pedal to master cylinder... Let us know what has happened or hasn't. I'm very curious now.

 

[khartley]

Just for kicks, check out under your dash where the master cylinder goes into the car, and make sure there isn't fluid leaking out from the master cylinder anywhere. Also pull the boot back on the slave cylinder and see if there is any fluid inside the boot. The fact that the clutch pedal went to the floor on your buddy indicates that either the master or slave is leaking, or it is just that far out of adjustment. My guess is the adjustment, but it doesn't hurt to check things out. I would add fluid to the master asap, you don't want it to get low enough to get air in the system.

Definitely check your tranny fluid out and let us know what you find, that will tell a lot of whats going on. Don't come to hasty conclusions and think it is the clutch yet. Also, is there any way for you to find out if this only happens in 3rd gear? A worn clutch isn't going to be picky about what gear it slips in.

 

[SubversionX]

If it is your clutch, you could potentially be paying upward near $1000 for a mechanic to do it.

 

[dpok69]

Today, I took it to a "dsm" (they do work on all forced induction cars) shop and sure enough i need a new clutch. The shop said they had installed the clutch a year ago for the old owner.
They recommended me getting a exedy twin clutch, but from my readings in this forum it seems like overkill. I am still waiting for a call for an estimate.

 

[ViciousLord]

I had an Exedy Twin HD on my previous Evo. It was a little overkill for my power (420whp/430wtq).. But it is an awesome clutch none the less! Pedal pressure will be significantly stiffer. It should run you about $1400 (without install). Remember, this is a flywheel and clutch as one unit.

 

[rza808]

someone in the classifieds on here is selling a act2900 for 500....thats the way to go

 

[mandrigues]

Hey on top you were talking about a head gasket leak most of these cars get leaks change it out they usually go bad around 60,000 miles also good time to check timeing belt and serpintine belt/tension belt wich ever some people call it, just try to help and give you more info so you know.

 

[dpok69]

Thanks for the help.

I decided to go with an XTD Stage 4 sprung 6-puck which I see people have very few complaints about. It costs about $200 and should be adequate for my setup. I already have my brother in law willing to do it at his speed shop for $350. I saw the prices on the twin clutch and I was like yeah right.

The leak I had was on the valve cover. A new gasket was put in there by the previous owner but it seemed all the bolts got loose. I tightened the bolts in a crisscross pattern and the leak stopped. I later found out that it is easy to crack the valve cover by over tightening by the previous owner.

The belts are new and are visible, because the top timing cover is removed for the adjustable cams

 

[96awd]

it's gone! i just had that happen to mine. I also bought a stage 3 shep trans just waiting to put it in. I have the act 2900 6 puck sprung clutch. it's amazing and launches hard if you have awd.

 

[razrman8]

+1 on clutch adjustment.. I was adjusting mine and took it out on the highway and it did the exact same thing.... just cruising and give it a Lotta throttle and rpms start climbing and you move nowhere...
In my case I adjusted the clutch and it wasn't in the correct spot . Not allowing for disengagement.. which is why you have to let out so far to start rolling.. its a pain on hills isn't it?? Lol
But my clutch is new so this is the only reason I'm sayin mine wasn't bad
Just needed adjusted

ooh my bad I didn't see where it said that the shop said it waaS clutch..
just a little insight on my problem

 

[dpok69]

Interesting, razrman 8. I should try to do that adjustment myself. I have nothing to lose now. The shop could be wrong and maybe just wants to make money off me.

I guess you made that adjustment under the clutch pedal?