is it dangerous or ok?

[RocCitySlayer]

With the mods in my list, is it possible to just just zero ever thing out in link and set the psi to something low and saftly drive my car? By driving in mean normal crusie driving not racing or boosting. Im wondering if I can saftly do it or if not what are the KEY "Most important" things I need to adjust in link.

 

[JayB12]

Don't zero out your injector settings, that's probably the worst thing you could do. If everything is set right in link now, you can just turn the boost down with an MBC and be fine. Worst case scenario you don't have as much power.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Don't zero out your injector settings, that's probably the worst thing you could do. If everything is set right in link now, you can just turn the boost down with an MBC and be fine.

Im not sure if everything is set right, and its probably not. I just need to get it about 65 miles from my house back to my house and I cant find anybody to flatbed it for any less then $220. Plus I miss driving my car

Is that really worst case?

 

[JayB12]

If your car is in good running condition, and your injector settings are scaled correctly for your 1050cc injectors I don't see any reason it would damage anything.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

If your car is in good running condition, and your injector settings are scaled correctly for your 1050cc injectors I don't see any reason it would damage anything.

Worst case something does get damaged, What would/could get damaged if anything

 

[enasnitsi]

Worst case is you destroy your engine. But not likely to happen if you baby it.

 

[JayB12]

I mean anything can go wrong at anytime. You could get a flat tire, who knows. Post a file of what your current link settings are and maybe we can go from there if your not sure.

And maybe I should have asked this first, what is the story on why you need to move it or was there a problem that makes you think there is reason to worry about driving it?

 

[RocCitySlayer]

This is my last log. Nothing has been changed since. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153149380-post64.html

Im kinda impatiant to get this car running for the fact that I need to get it 65 miles from where it is now by Jan 1st and I dont have the money for a flatbed. Im storing it for the winter and hopefully bringing it to STM in the spring to fix the things that are wrong and retune it. So right now im kind of stuck

And the only problem I know of is It had an idle surge but I got that to go away and fully idles smooth at 900-950rpms Same as my target idle. But I feel like my tune is way off and im still not sure of whats safe and whats not

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Can a Non turbo throttlebody be used on a turbo car?

 

[95talongirl]

I would at least leave the injector scaling where it is.... You have some large ones in there and zeroing it out will not help this at all. I would just turn the boost way down and baby it.

 

[95talongirl]

Can a Non turbo throttlebody be used on a turbo car?

420a? I do not think so. The 4g63 cars have a pretty interesting throttle body. Did you check yours for leaks at the throttle body shaft seals? Mine were leaking badly, causing idle issues and making it harder to dial in the tune.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

My seals are good, just changed. But I took my TB off and the butterfly plate has alittle light showing through the sides if I hold it up to a light. Not sure if thats my leak or not. I changed the FIAV gasket and the 2 other gaskets. Also if I push on the gas and let off it feels like the plate is getting stuck partally open and the rpms stay steady high but if I push it again theyll drop back down

 

[RocCitySlayer]

So later on this week im going to attempt to drive my car 72miles away from the spot its currently at. Wish me luck please

 

[NHerron]

You'll be fine, just stay out of boost if you're paranoid. The 'stock' part of the ECU controls things safely when you're not boosting. It hunts for a 14.7 AFR and timing is safe in this mode. Check the oil, tires, suspension, any modded fuel parts, etc just like you would for any car.

My seals are good, just changed. But I took my TB off and the butterfly plate has alittle light showing through the sides if I hold it up to a light. Not sure if thats my leak or not. I changed the FIAV gasket and the 2 other gaskets. Also if I push on the gas and let off it feels like the plate is getting stuck partally open and the rpms stay steady high but if I push it again theyll drop back down

The plate is getting stuck then, you shouldn't ever touch the little screw and nut holding the plate open. But if IRC, the screw is set when it contacts the tab and you screw it in 2 1/4 more additional turns. That should get things back in order

 

[Wildside22]

For some reason I am not able to review your log.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

You'll be fine, just stay out of boost if you're paranoid. The 'stock' part of the ECU controls things safely when you're not boosting. It hunts for a 14.7 AFR and timing is safe in this mode. Check the oil, tires, suspension, any modded fuel parts, etc just like you would for any car.




The plate is getting stuck then, you shouldn't ever touch the little screw and nut holding the plate open. But if IRC, the screw is set when it contacts the tab and you screw it in 2 1/4 more additional turns. That should get things back in order

Thanks for the info
I hope everything is good. Ill capture a little cruise log before I take that ride and hopefully somebody can let me know how my settings look and my fuel trims and stuff. The only real problem I have is the TB and my tune is off and my idle is getting alittle better

 

[NHerron]

You know what screw I'm taking about then? It's on the firewall side of the TB, tiny little thing. All it does is hold the plate open a bit so it doesn't get stuck like it currently is for you

How you likin that 7 blade. I just picked me one up for close to nothing, all I did was change injectors out on a guys 24V cummins and he just gave it to me

 

[Wildside22]

Keep in mind that with the plate open farther then spec it will allow more air into the system and that will cause other goofy issues, just clean the throttle body.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

You know what screw I'm taking about then? It's on the firewall side of the TB, tiny little thing. All it does is hold the plate open a bit so it doesn't get stuck like it currently is for you

How you likin that 7 blade. I just picked me one up for close to nothing, all I did was change injectors out on a guys 24V cummins and he just gave it to me

Are you taking about the idle switch?
And the HX35 is a beast turbo. Mine used to start spooling at about 2800rpms and pull hard till redline link was logging 47lbs per min last summer. But I havent drove it since late august

Keep in mind that with the plate open farther then spec it will allow more air into the system and that will cause other goofy issues, just clean the throttle body.

Yeah I knew about that. And I did clean the TB
Im just worried about the tune being way off and hurting the engine in anyway

 

[Wildside22]

ok, then just go back into link and do the basic insanity checks and make sure the injectors and maf are set up for your build and drive it home. Get it home and into familar territory and start over with your tune. Be easy on her and try to stay out of boost until then.

 

[NHerron]

Keep in mind that with the plate open farther then spec it will allow more air into the system and that will cause other goofy issues, just clean the throttle body.

His plate is sticking. So it's safe to assume someone messed with the SAS so it needs to be readjusted per FSM specs.

Ah I mentioned the wrong specs. Instead of 2.25 turns it's actually 1.25 turns. So thread the screw in until it touches the tab and from there give it another 1 1/4 turn and snug up the nut good while holding the screw still.

The screw I'm talking about is referred to as the SAS screw. It's 07088 in the attached picture (next to 07797) Tiny thing.

In this link, post #4, 2nd picture it's missing but that's where it threads into.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/428000-tps-adjustment-without-stop-screw.html

 

[Wildside22]

I have to agree that his tbody may be out of adjustment. If the tbody is adjusted to spec and it still sticks it may have some build up in it that needs to be cleaned out. My brother in-laws 2g had the same sticking issue and we just replaced his tbody with a bigger one

 

[RocCitySlayer]

So I got to mess with the gsx alittle bit today. I was able to stop the TB from sticking, I loosened the throttle cable and readjusted the idle switch screw and retightened the cable. The plate is fully closed and no longer sticking . Now I think I have to readjust the TPS and the CAS and my idle will be set good. Its definitly idling smother and steadier just alittle high. Also, I no longer have to move my car 70 something miles away anymore I found a place to store it till I can get the problems and the tune figured out. Another thing is mt TB doesnt have that screw. Its also a 1g Tb

 

[NHerron]

Aww man I should have checked your pro. Yeah the 1g TB's adjust via the idle switch...

And just what the heck kind of strut brace is that?

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Aww man I should have checked your pro. Yeah the 1g TB's adjust via the idle switch...

And just what the heck kind of strut brace is that?

Im not sure what brand off hand but its like hyabusa or something. I also have one for the back