is installing a turbo hard?!

[BrockLee GS-T]

so heres the deal, it all started when i noticed my boost that was set at 15lbs was now not hitting above 10psi, so i did the usual pressure testing and found that a lot of air was flowing through my turbo into the oil pan(bubbling sound) and i noticed that the shaft play was noticable. my final goal for the car is upper 2's or 300hp, thats it. i realize i dont have the supporting fuel mods to handle any turbo bigger or badder than the stock t25, so im trying to figure out if i can just replace this turbo cheap to get me boosting to 15psi again....so if i was able to find a good shape used t-25 or bite the bullet and buy a fp big28, what all would be entitled to doing the swap...im pretty mechanical, have all the tools i'd need, i just cant seem to find any thread showing a how to remove and install the turbo, or if theres anything i should be careful about, because the last thing i want to do is install the turbo incorrectly and be out another turbo, any how to's on this would be very much appreciated!!!

ps: this is not another what turbo is better thread:::lets keep this to good turbo installation information

 

[SexyGsX]

Go to Vfaq.com, choose DSM, Click turbo, Find "16G Install in a 2G." It will show you step by step instructions for a turbo install. Its easy, just make sure everything is tightened to torque specs and no leaks. Good luck man!

 

[truwarrior]

I would say it easy to do if: nothing breaks during removal, you have all the right tools, torque specs, and have all the right parts. (I stripped the o2 housing when attempting to remove the 02 sensor set me back about an extra $300) Take out the fans and radiator to give yourself more room.

Go with a 14b or EVO16G (boost creep will get you if you have a lot of mods already) and an install kit to make it fool proof. I don't think I would have been able to save the oil feed line on my t25 so atleast get a new feed line and intercooler pipes. If you go the t25 or t28 route, good looks saving the oil feed line. Don't for get to get all new gaskets and copper crush washers.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

:takes a deep breathe:

okay, for your goals an evo III 16G is perfect. It spools crazy fast and hits HARD. at 20 psi (after your fuel mods) your car will feel like it's flying. well, until you get used to it and want a bigger turbo . DO NOT go with an fpt28 unless you want to autocross or something. This is just my opinion, but the extra 300 dollars can be spend on injectors or something of the like. The 800+ price tag just doesn't cut it these days with the hybrid/evoII turbos running around for much less money and more power.

Now, as for the install. PREP your car first. This is important so that you do not have to deal with a lot of headaches during your install. Start by spraying PB blaster on (ALL OVER) your exhaust manifold, turbo, oil fittings (especially the sumbitch banjo at the oil filter housing), water fittings, and o2 housing. Do it for 3-4 days straight, twice a day, and letting the oil penetrate for 30 hour before driving. This seems tedious and overkill, but it will assure that your old rusty bolts will come out easily. (FYI, you WILL smoke when the car warms up. Don't worry, it's just the PB blaster burning off). Now, during those days, read the vfaq over and over again until you actually understand what needs to be done. Knowing is the hardest part. Once you're ready to commence action, warm the car up for a minute (from cold) so that your components are warm. Then go to town and start cracking bolts. Don't remove them, just loosen them before you uninstall. Then.. the uninstall/install part. Here's a short list of what you have to do.

1. drain fluids
2. TAKE OUT THE RADIATOR (it makes life easy, only a couple of bolts)
3. crack your turbo bolts
4. unbolt your downpipe
5. remove your oil drain
6. remove your oil feed (the one that goes to the filter housing)
7. remove/unfasten your coolant lines
8. you should be able to see that there is nothing connected to the turbo anymore.
9. remove turbo bolts (best to have a buddy hold the turbo while doing this)

install:
1. install coolant lines (connect to turbo only)
2. install oil drain (connect to turbo only)
3. install o2
4. (this is optional, i like to do it first) install your j pipe (turbo only) (make sure you have a gasket for this, or use RTV).
5. bolt turbo on
6. connect water lines
7. bolt oil return to oil pan
8. bolt oil feed to oil filter housing
9. bolt on downpipe
10. connect j pipe to IC system
11. finish up (put everything else on, refill fluids, etc.)
12. double check everything torqued.
13. double check again.
14. now you can double check everything else you bolted on.
14. double check it again.

have fun, it's not terribly hard.

*edit* i'm such a hypocrite sometimes when it comes to double checking my work, but IT IS definitely important because you will ALWAYS miss something.

 

[NeOzz1]

I would have to agree about the bigger turbo, if your goin to do it you might as well upgrade. On my first DSM I ran a BIG16G with just a pump and no injectors about 17-18psi with no problems. I would say go with a small16G or the evo3 16g and you may not need to upgrade injectors but I would def. get a pump if you dont already have one. As far as swapping the turbo out I would say as long as you have at least some mechanical knowledge you wont have a problem, just take your time and you will be okay.

 

[Attack Eagle]

Visual comparison of t28 vs t25

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Hints (for any turbo install):



Remove the heat shields by spraying them 2 days early with PB blaster... also hit the o2 sensor as best you can...
remove the upper shield at least 1 day early and spray pb blaster liberally on the turbo to manifold bolts and if possible remove the o2 sensor and lower shield and hit up the lower section of the bolts...

reinstall the 02 and drive it around normally.
When you are ready hit the bolts again with pb blaster and crank the car and warm things up as hot as you can stand, then douse em again with pb.
WHile you wait for things to cool off (b/c you let it get too hot) pull the engine fan and only the engine fan.

Remove the 14 mm turbo to manifold bolts and the 02 while things are hot... and try to at least get the stud loose and moving while it is hot.

They will come free a lot easier.


FOr a t28 or other that can reuse the OEM line (or just its removal)

There is a 19 mm and 11 mm flare fitting on the turbo oil feed UNDER the turbo in the line...
disconnect that fitting instead of fighting to get the oem oil line off the housing and in place on the new turbo...
it will save you at least an hour of cursing.

Tools needed

14mm box end wrench
11mm flare wrench
19 mm open end wrench
12 and 10 mm sockets
O2 sensor tool

what ever size your 02 to DP bolts are (mine were 19? and I had to use an end wrench due to no clearance for the socket)

screwdriver to remove couplers.

Vice grips to remove the OEM stud if replacing with a Turbo to manifold Bolt (recommended)

Parts:
OEM metal o2 to turbo gasket
OEM metal turbo to mani gasket
spare OEM turbo mani bolt (make it a lot easier to get it into place and get out if you get rid of the OEM stud after pulling the turbo down to get vicegrips on it)
oil drain pipe gaskets (both)
DP gasket (if needed)



you can do this without draining coolant if you use a turbo to manifold bolt to "stop up" the water line after removing the rubber from the hard line.

You can do it without draining the oil IF you do it up on ramps and don't mind loosing about 3/4 quart when you remove the oil drain pipe from the pan. otherwise just drain the oil and do your oil change.


Clean your heatshields while you have them off... CLR kitchen cleaner or similar, a little water, elbow grease, and a scotch brite pad or two will work wonders.

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Look, no upgrades Mr. Honda Drag racer. *WINK* It's still on the t25.





Since I have a 6 bolt swap, I am converting to the 1g water pipe and will be installing a 14b probably in a week or so... my t28 is dead.

You can find good 14bs for under 200 bucks, I only put on the t28 b/c I got it for free.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

wow... great post man

 

[oldman]

Good job guys.

 

[96whgsx]

Also, instead of taking out the o2 sensor while the turbo is in the car, just unplug it. The harness is around the picture with the tee on the coolant line. The wires run along the top of the heatshield. Also, I took off the manifold to take out the turbo and replaced the stud sticking out of the turbo with an ordinary turbo bolt.
'
If I were to do it again, it will take me 2 hours if I had the right supplies.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

If I were to do it again, it will take me 2 hours if I had the right supplies.

Sadly, since I've done this process so many times before, last time it only took me a half an hour to get my 50 trim out of the car

How goes the install brockleeGST?

 

[Dream On]

I'm scared I'm gonna snap bolts/studs...I've never taken the turbo off my car, but will be shortly to port it and put on a 2g manifold and o2 housing.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Now, as for the install. PREP your car first. This is important so that you do not have to deal with a lot of headaches during your install. Start by spraying PB blaster on (ALL OVER) your exhaust manifold, turbo, oil fittings (especially the sumbitch banjo at the oil filter housing), water fittings, and o2 housing. Do it for 3-4 days straight, twice a day, and letting the oil penetrate for 30 hour before driving. This seems tedious and overkill, but it will assure that your old rusty bolts will come out easily. (FYI, you WILL smoke when the car warms up. Don't worry, it's just the PB blaster burning off). Now, during those days, read the vfaq over and over again until you actually understand what needs to be done. Knowing is the hardest part. Once you're ready to commence action, warm the car up for a minute (from cold) so that your components are warm. Then go to town and start cracking bolts. Don't remove them, just loosen them before you uninstall. Then.. the uninstall/install part. Here's a short list of what you have to do.

 

[Attack Eagle]

exactly. USE PB BLASTER, not wd 40 or someother spray, several times and do it while it is hot... you shouldn't have any problems

 

[oldman]

Always use anti-seize on the turbo bolts when re-install, I'm assuming you bought new turbo bolts.

 

[BrockLee GS-T]

well i havent actually started busting knuckles yet due to my turbo not being in yet, but i definatly want to thank you guys for all the good posts you've been putting up, and as for the new turbo bolts, is this one of those things that i definatly would want to just replace instead of reuse?

 

[MrBoxx]

Yes. Replace the turbo bolts. They don't cost much and it's always reassuring to know that they're fresh. As oldman said, use a nice film of anti-seize on them.

 

[xcelr8n]

Don't know if it has been mentioned yet, but aside from spraying it down everyday before removal, make sure everything is HOT when removing it, and wear gloves so you dont get burnt, hot metal will come out easier, whereas cold bolts will snap, trust me snapping turbo bolts inside the housing = not fun.

 

[LRS95TSI]

http://www.dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184255

it's pretty easy in my opinion, but if u take your time and understand what your doing you will learn alot more and gain more then just installing a turbo...when u go the swap remember to just cut ## factory oil feed line out, don't try to salvage it. use alotta pb blaster and anti-seize. get a new oil return and fit it properly.

 

[BrockLee GS-T]

hey, i know this has been a dead thread for over a month, but i finally got around to getting all the parts needed(ended up biting off a lot to chew) and installed my 14b i picked up, fmic, tb, tb elbow, downpipe in one glorious weekend.... thanks for the posts, you guys really gave me the courage to do it, and for anybody who reads this post, its really not too bad, just make sure and double check that you have all the gaskets you're going to replace on hand, namely, both return oil gaskets, and as mentioned above, take off the radiator!!!! this will make life MUCH easier...not too bad though, and definatly get 4 new turbo bolts, you will most likely shear a bolt when removing the turbo, and the old bolts i'd be scared to try to retorque onto the turbo, umm...i think thats it, thanks to all who have helped with step by step guides!!!

ps...pulls like a mofo compared to the t25

 

[Attack Eagle]

Hmm I'm glad it all worked out for you.

I didn't need to remove the manifold or the radiator to install my 14b and 1g water pipe and tstat housing, nor when I did the T28 previously but I can see how if you were working from above the car it would certainly make things easier... I always run them up on ramps and drop the turbos out the bottom, then all I have to take off is the fan.

I did mine from underneath and even had to fit the turbo into the OEM 1g U shaped water line without removing it from the pipe... and i'm on my 4th turbo (oem t25, rebuilt, t28, 14b) with the OEM vintage 1997 bolts and no snappage ever so god must love me or something.

I think the actual turbo (removing the pipe was a pITA) part of the swap took me about an hour & 20minutes from disassembly to reassembly... Including installing the SS oil line and removing the OEM one from the block, and teh J pipe to side mount pipe install.
I bet yours runs like a raped ape with a nice FMIC on it though, congrats...