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Is a clutch going to kill my thrust bearing?

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Carter97GSX

15+ Year Contributor
62
3
Jul 25, 2005
Boston, Massachusetts
Okay, I am fully aware that crankwalk is talked about way more than it should be considering how often it occurs, but I got scared the other day. I was sitting idling with the clutch in, and the car in 1st gear when I decided to rev the motor. When I hit the gas the pressure on the clutch pedal decreased significatly enough for me to feel it.

I have no other reason to suspect crankwalk, but I need to know if this is going to be an issue cause I'm about to buy a new clutch. If I get the clutch and put it in a motor that is just beggining to crankwalk then I'm going to accelerate the process right? I want to get the ACT 2600, and I need it ASAP cause my stock clutch is on the brink of slipping right now. Am I going to have to just get it and put it in and see what happens? Are there aftermarket thrust bearings that can be installed to fix this problem, or would I have to just get myself a 6 bolt? Thanks in advance for your advice.
 
I say that if its going to happen, then it'll happen no matter what. If it does happen, then get a 6 bolt, if not, drive your car.
 
I agree with Dream On. It is a shame that there are so many posts out there of people saying to stay away from 2600's cause your car will walk. I personally had one on my 95 7bolt for thirty thousand miles. The trust bearings looked new when I took it apart after the motor finally spun a rod bearing. Its an excellent clutch for the money and I say go for it, if your car is gonna walk then its gonna walk.
 
You guys are right, I guess this was just a paranoia post. Just kind of a scary thought I guess. Here is a secondary question though:

ACT 2600 Clutch +
What flywheel?
 
Carter97GSX said:
You guys are right, I guess this was just a paranoia post. Just kind of a scary thought I guess. Here is a secondary question though:

ACT 2600 Clutch +
What flywheel?
I wouldnt use the act 2600. Although CW is blown aout of proportion, i still say take some general precautions, try something like slowboys clutch that is advertised to have a lower clamp load than the 2600 with more holding power (by the use of higher friction coefficient discs). Also, use a 1g oil filter, it is bigger and flows oil better, lastly, disable your clutch start switch.

I dont worry about cw all day, but i am aware of the potential problem and im not just going to toss that possibility aside, do what you can about it then enjoy your car, there is no question whether a stronger pressure plate exerts more pressure on the thrust bearing, it certaintly does and is something to consider.
 
It has been tested that pressure on the throw out bearing is increased significantly in the 2600. For 2G's I usually recommend the http://www.clutchmaster.com Or http://www.hyp-drive.com Who change the leverage point to gain clamping force, reducing throwout bearing load.
On a side note lately I've seen as many 6-bolts crankwalk as 7-bolts.
 
Dream On said:
I say that if its going to happen, then it'll happen no matter what. If it does happen, then get a 6 bolt, if not, drive your car.

Having had a 7bolt recently crankwalk on me, I would tend not to agree with this statement. I had a 104k mileage 7-bolt that had been running fine. I installed an ACT2600 and within 2500-3000 miles, the motor walked. Although this may have occured with my stock clutch in the same timeframe, the crank had .004" of play before the clutch install, so I would like to think that my crank was doing just fine.

I know the ACT2600 is tried and proven, but you may want to keep your options open, I know a lot of people have great luck with clutchmasters and the SBR clutches.
 
oddrob said:
It has been tested that pressure on the throw out bearing is increased significantly in the 2600. For 2G's I usually recommend the http://www.clutchmaster.com Or http://www.hyp-drive.com Who change the leverage point to gain clamping force, reducing throwout bearing load.
On a side note lately I've seen as many 6-bolts crankwalk as 7-bolts.

My former clutch was a Clutch Masters. It was advertised as being designed to minimize the chance of CW. It was slippy throughout it's short life, often smelling burnt from traffic light "launches" at no more than 3000 rpm.

I replaced it with a Spec 2+. So far I am very happy with it. I never thought the ClutchMasters was heavy but when I started using the Spec, I thought there was something wrong with it, it was so light. The quick grab and lightened flywheel took some getting used to though.
 
Great info guys! I hadn't really thought about it like that, but if there are clutches out there that can handle my power (goal of 400whp) without increasing the load on the thrust bearing then that's probably my best bet. Wret, is this the clutch you're talking about? ( http://www.optionimports.com/sm483h-623.html ) If its as light as you say I'll go ahead and give that one a try. Also, any recommendations on a flywheel while I'm at it?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I agree with wret on the spec clutches. If you are gonna choose anything other than ACT get a spec. There is no other brand on the market that impresses me as much as the two listed companies(that is without spending a rediculous amount of money).
 
That's the one but I bought from TheSpeedFactor, a site sponsor. I'm not much for giving reviews, and I haven't done more than street driving on it, but if you are looking for something with some bite and a light stroke, look into it.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. Due to one of our DSM Gods chiming in I went ahead and bought the Spec 2+ just now from TheSpeedFactor seems how they're a site sponsor and all. I also got a lightweight flywheel. Thanks for all your help with this guys!
 
I love my south bend dxd rally clutch, light pedal, good holding power so far, although my stock clutch lasted until 125,000 miles. Its good that you posted, i'm glad we could help even though im not a DSM god or anything:thumb: . I dont know what the spec clutches come with, but make sure you use an oem throwout bearing!
 
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