thrust bearing

[TSITurbo95]

Ok, so the cause of crank walk is when the thrust bearing moves correct? Couldent you just replace the bearing that "walks" and solve the issue/possibility of getting it?

 

[CrackedDSM]

Don't Lie... 6 bolts don't crank walk ;-)


You must have had a heavy front clutch in there ..... Heavy clutches are the only reason cars ever crank walk ...

 

[JusMX141]

I've had a 6-bolt Auto crankwalk. Measured end-play and everything.

Ricky bought an auto 6-bolt to part out a while ago....and it had worse crank walk than any 7-bolt he ever disassembled.

 

[ThunderChild]

I did a lot of reading on crank walk before I picked up my talon. Now granted, I've never had a car, let alone a dsm, walk on me, but I have looked into poor piston squirters as the cause of 7 bolt woes. The squirter is much smaller and has tiny passaged that are easily clogged. There was a company that looked into this heavily, and it seemed spot on for diagnosis.

Just a thought.

 

[Lemony]

I did a lot of reading on crank walk before I picked up my talon. Now granted, I've never had a car, let alone a dsm, walk on me, but I have looked into poor piston squirters as the cause of 7 bolt woes. The squirter is much smaller and has tiny passaged that are easily clogged. There was a company that looked into this heavily, and it seemed spot on for diagnosis.

Just a thought.

Mobil 1 full synthetic ftw

 

[JusMX141]

^ Nope. Besides being synthetic, today's Mobil 1 is just as shitty as the cheapest oil you can buy at WalMart.

If you want your thrust bearing to last, use diesel-grade oil or a high-ZDDP racing oil....OR use a break-in additive in regular Mobil 1 oil.

 

[Dextrocardia]

I was thinking along the lines of something drivetrain related as well. I looked at my ball joints on the front and the lower is pretty much blown; so looks like I'll be ordering some new control arms in the near future. I believe the plugs and wires were changed by the last owner about a year ago, but they're bosch platinums :x, so maybe I should throw some NGK coppers back in there. It idles rock solid at 900 rpm but you never know. This is also my first turbocharged car so I'm still looking to learn what issues to look out for with a turbo. Other than a fuel filter, new plugs, and PCV valve what would be another good thing to check while I'm under the hood for a tune up?

I have had the same problem. Bosch wires on NGK plugs, my spark gap was stock and under a rich load, it would randomly jump through the plug boot inside the plug tube. It took a plug change to find.

Another thing to check, make sure the intake manifold is properly grounded. It holds the bulk of the high current electronics run by the ECU.

 

[Lemony]

I have had the same problem. Bosch wires on NGK plugs, my spark gap was stock and under a rich load, it would randomly jump through the plug boot inside the plug tube. It took a plug change to find.

Another thing to check, make sure the intake manifold is properly grounded. It holds the bulk of the high current electronics run by the ECU.

Ok I'll be sure to check that when I change the plugs Dextrocardia. Where does the intake manifold ground to? Also my CEL was on and pulled up P0420 (pretty common) P1400 and P0505. I cleared the codes last night and after driving for like fifteen minutes today and ten minutes last night my CEL hasn't come back on but I did a second gear pull and it still had that slight shudder around 3-3500 rpm. I'm looking into the codes right now, one has to do with the MAP sensor. I'm still in the process of looking for a digital factory service manual so I can get aquianted with this car , anybody out there have a PDF I can download?

 

[Boostdriven]

To add to this crankwalk theory, besides the heavy pressure plate and clutch adjustment I think some one this problem is driver related. Few things that you don't want to do, never down shift unless you absolutely have to, brakes are cheaper to replace then the engine. Never hold the clutch paddle in at stop lights or stop signs, never rest your foot on the clutch paddle as your driving. When I ride sometimes with some of my friends I've seen them sit at the stop light with their foot resting on the clutch paddle or even worse, have the car in gear and the clutch pressed in. When you spend money and build a car you probably want it to last a while so don't treat it like you're are the race track when you're driving to get yourself a burger

 

[Lemony]

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Okay I think I found the problem with the vibration/roughness when starting off in first gear and slippage when I hit boost. Is there supposed to be a cover over the lower portion of my transmission bell housing? That doesn't seen like a good idea otherwise.

 

[1990dsmkid]

yws there should be a metal cover plate there

 

[Lemony]

yws there should be a metal cover plate there

Do you know where i could get one? I've been searching and can't find one

 

[DSM_love_GST]

Probably JNZ Tuning or Miller auto parts

 

[Maroon4g]

Well apparently a fellow DSMer named jafro on youtube thought had crankwalk and for some reason decided to check it out closer he had the signs of crankwalk but the diagnosis was mainly the fact that untorqued transmission bolts and a certain bolt you need will cause a misalignment in the transmission and when you push the clutch in the pressure goes to the crank wrong causing the crank to tilt and twist and another factor is that the harmonic balancer needs to be upgraded as well for better rsults. Im bout to post the video.

[ame=http://youtu.be/hF8iCN7H7DY]7-Bolt Shortblock Failure - Full Diagnosis - YouTube[/ame]

 

[oh-b-1g]

While those things were mentioned as possible causes, if I remember correctly he ended up tracing the root cause to a missing oil journal in a stub shaft that was installed during balance shaft delete. But regarding the missing bolt issue, I had no idea it could mess up so much stuff. Its awesome that some one is smart enough and cares enough to post videos like these!