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internals galore `93 TSi AWD

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kpsc93TSi

10+ Year Contributor
63
0
Aug 22, 2009
hell, Texas
so here is my ideas for building up my internals seeing as there 100% stock:(

CYLINDER HEAD

Adjustable Cam Gears_______ HKS
Camshafts______HKS 272`s
Hydraulic Lifters______TOPLINE
Rocker Arms______TOPLINE
Valve Guides______FERREA
Valve Locks______FERREA
Valve Seals______FERREA
Valve Springs / Retainers_______SUPERTECH(DUAL)/supertech
Valves______SUPERTECH(standard)

TOTAL $2,199.01

maybe a port & pollish...idk (i know its a good idea)

ENGINE INTERNALS

Piston / Bore_____WISECO / 85mm
Crankshaft_____K1 LIGHTWEIGHT
Rods______EGALE
Bearings____KING

TOTAL $2,529.97

full parts total $4,728.98

install and tune ? less than or more that 2000? anyone know?
 
No real need to go with a different crank on this one. You can save a nice chunk of change that can be spent on a big turbo upgrade.. I have never heard of a stock crank failing..

I think you do some calling around you can get some better pricing.. Im pricing out my short block and it considerably lower than your but im going to a 2.4l crank and a full manley build...
 
the new crank is mostly for free-er revving(gettin` it in the 5 figure RPMS) but i see what your saying. and im shooting for a reliable(LOL yes i said reliable) 400 and 400... so i dont know if ill get anything bigger than and 18g si it stays verry streetable. but, i wana see if i can get there with my
E3B16G(that would be nice) im at 315 hp 326 ft/lb @22-23psi now...
 
Thats a lot of money on building the motor when the stock one can probably get you there reliably...even if it is a 7 bolt.

Do you have motor issues now? Good compression?

I have a built motor that I never needed to build, since I only have an 18g. But I had it apart and figured "while I was in there..." $4,000 later my motor can handle 700hp, but my turbo can only put out 400. ROFL If I would have known how strong the stocker was I could have saved a bunch of money. Granted, I am putting on an HX-35 next season, so I will need the built motor then.
 
Well its either an evo 3 16g or a big 16g.. It sounds like you got the ebay version(I had the same one and it took me to 12.60 and I dd my car.)

I would consider reading up on the holsets. I have peiced together a nice turbo combo..
WH1C-150, Tial 38mm-125, PR o2-220, BEP .55ar bolt on housing-250, lets say 50 for oiling,
Right around 800 bucks for the whole thing and i sold my old 16g for 175 so i made out pretty good..
 
No need to drop big money on a crankshaft, as stated above. If you want the rotating assembly to be lighter, get the stock crank balanced with an aluminum crank pulley and flywheel.

No need to port a 1G head- over 700hp has been made on an unported 1G head.
 
Well its either an evo 3 16g or a big 16g...

i thought it was the same turbo but with a larger wheel... it is the BIG 16g i just thought it was a evo 3 because it was the 16g. if i wasnt in iraq id take some pics and show you... i know it has the MHI info stamped on it or something ### the guy that tuned my car freaked when he saw it was real...LOL

*My 1Glazer
but ya so searously you think if i am not going over a 18G i dont really need to spend cash on internals? the reason i was thinking about it was so i can crank up the boost even more:) well you all are great help and thank you. if you have any more info please feel free to share it with me...

that hole dont need to port a 1g thing... totaly doesnt apply... the guy who owned my car before me had to put a new motor in the car so it now has a 1997 7bolt 4g63 heart not a 1993 7bolt 4g63 heart...
 
One thing to consider is with all the money you are spending on the block and head, you will need a pretty big fuel system upgrade. A stock build with good machine work can yield you 400/400 all day. It's the turbo/fuel/tune that is what is absolutely essential. You might consider an HX-40 turbo setup for your goals. It will hit over 400 much easier than a 16g and flows better in the mid and upper range I believe. Here's an example:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dyno-talk/346166-hx-40-powered-2g-hits-mustang-dyno.html

Good Luck!
 
*My 1Glazer
but ya so searously you think if i am not going over a 18G i dont really need to spend cash on internals? the reason i was thinking about it was so i can crank up the boost even more:) well you all are great help and thank you. if you have any more info please feel free to share it with me...

Its all about setting realistic goals. Some people wanna jump right to a 35R and put down 5-600hp and they know it. Some people say they only want 350-400 whp, but then then they quickly outgrow that, and keep upgrading. (me included)

I know myself pretty well and I figured that I would keep wanting more power year after year, so I built a forged motor right from the start even though I haven't really needed it for the last 2 years. I plan to put down 500-550whp in the spring, so having the forged motor was a good investment as long as it still in good shape internally.

How much do you think your goals will change over the next couple years? Plan accordingly...

400whp is pushing the limits of a stock 7bolt IMO. 350-400whp is probably where the 18g will perform on pump gas. If you run e85, pump & meth or race gas then you can get about 425, but 42-44lb/min airflow is really all it can do.

Well... unless spending all that the money isn't a big deal, but I figure money is always a factor in making these decisions.
 
i thought it was the same turbo but with a larger wheel... it is the BIG 16g i just thought it was a evo 3 because it was the 16g. if i wasnt in iraq id take some pics and show you... i know it has the MHI info stamped on it or something ### the guy that tuned my car freaked when he saw it was real...LOL
Why? It's not like they're not the most common upgrade turbo for our cars or anything.


...and for the record, the Big 16G and Evo III have nearly identical wheel specs. They both use a TD05H turbine, and the Evo III's compressor inducer is .010" larger than the Big 16G. That's the thickness of two sheets of notebook paper.
 
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