The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Installing Viscous Coupling Eliminator

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

eclpsegsx12

20+ Year Contributor
214
0
Feb 16, 2003
Tucson, Arizona
I have the coupling eliminator but i dont know where exactly it goes. Is it in the fifth gear housing of the tranny? And do i remove the t-case and driveshaft when putting the eliminator in? Thanks
 
Pull the cover from the passenger side of the tranny and the vc is the large round slug held on by a c clip. Remove the c clip and the vc slides off the shaft, but not easily. Mine require a litte force and a prybar to remove. You might need to remove the pass axle to gain access but the tc and other axles can stay in place.
 
so, i dont have to remove the driveshaft either? Thats awesome if its that easy!
 
Just wondering again but how exactly does it work??? I mean i know it wont engage the tcase so the rear wheels cant turn also but can you drive on it like that with the t-case and WHOLE driveshaft in? Doesnt mach V say to remove your rear driveshaft? But they also say you dont need to jack the car up to do it? Could someone explain more please
 
Heres a step by step.

1. remove the outer trans cover, passenger side.
2. remove the synchros and shift fork for 5th/reverse
3. remove the two nuts holding on the two exposed gears.
TIP - using a penny jammed in between the gears will allow you to get enough torque on the nuts to bust em loose.
4. remove the viscous coupler.
5. remove the center housing previously held on by the two gears and the VC.
6. grab on to the center diff and tug. Should fall out easily.
Install the VCE per the instructions and reassemble.
TIP - to get the 5th / reverse synchro disk to keep from falling out when you're reinstalling the outer cover, use a dab of silicone to glue it in place to keep it from moving. The first time you shift into fifth will take a lil force, but after that its fine.
Also, while you're at it, upgrade your trans oil with synchromesh yummyness.
 
sorry dude but u are doing way to much work for a vce all u have to do is replace the viscous with the vce
its as easy as slide it off and slide it ondont even think about taking anything else off
 
dsmcrazyspiff said:
sorry dude but u are doing way to much work for a vce all u have to do is replace the viscous with the vce
its as easy as slide it off and slide it ondont even think about taking anything else off


If you did only do the VCE you'd be an idiot. The weak link in the Eclipse AWD tranny is the cute little center differential. By eliminating the viscous coupler you put MORE stress on the center diff. Honestly, unless you're big into rally and need your AWD car to oversteer a little more, you don't need to do the VCE or spool, just an upgraded Center Diff, like the 4 spyder gear center diff from TRE.
 
thescamp said:
Heres a step by step.

1. remove the outer trans cover, passenger side.
2. remove the synchros and shift fork for 5th/reverse
3. remove the two nuts holding on the two exposed gears.
TIP - using a penny jammed in between the gears will allow you to get enough torque on the nuts to bust em loose.
4. remove the viscous coupler.
5. remove the center housing previously held on by the two gears and the VC.
6. grab on to the center diff and tug. Should fall out easily.
Install the VCE per the instructions and reassemble.
TIP - to get the 5th / reverse synchro disk to keep from falling out when you're reinstalling the outer cover, use a dab of silicone to glue it in place to keep it from moving. The first time you shift into fifth will take a lil force, but after that its fine.
Also, while you're at it, upgrade your trans oil with synchromesh yummyness.

Oops, these directions are only if you are installing a spool or new / upgraded center diff. Scratch steps 2, 3, 5 and 6. The tip still works tho, and the only thing holding on the VC is a snap ring.
 
Thanks guys. I thought it was easier than what you posted. Why is it that the driveshaft and t-case can still be connected? Im only using this to drive up to the dyno by my house and get it tuned and drive back. Thanks again
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top