Installed New Clutch- Now It Is Slipping

[fourgsixthree33]

95 Talon fwd. I pulled the trans twice to figure out why I couldnt shift into gear with the engine running. Replaced the master cylinder with an OEM master and replaced the slave cylinder with one from advance auto. After replacing a bunch of other things like the clutch fork, pivot ball, throw out bearing, it still wouldnt go into gear. I also shimmed the pivot ball.

I pulled the transmission again and removed the clutch. The clutch was broke as a spring popped out. So I installed an Exeddy clutch and pressure plate with around 1k miles on it. Put the car back together.

I had to deal with some wiring issues. Ended up frying my ECU and MPI Relay. Anyway, today I got it running. Goes into gear smoothly. Took it up the road and the clutch slips at 3500rpms in 3rd and 4th gear. I havent noticed any slipping in first and second.

About a dozen trial and error with bleeding the clutch and adjusting the master cylinder rod, finally I had no more slipping issues. Went up the road and back with no problems.

As I was down shifting to pull into the driveway, I couldnt get the car in 3rd gear so I coasted into the driveway, stopped, and tried to get it in gear but no luck. Bled the system again and took it up the road. It started slipping again.

I tried more bleeding and adjusting with no luck. Now a couple things i have noticed....if you adjust the master rod all the way out so there are no more threads in the rod, then go to push the fork into the slave cylinder, its not supposed to move. I did this and I was still able to push my fork into my slave cylinder. It also doesnt retract very fast if at all without pumping the pedal. This may or may bot be normal.

Another thing, when i pushed in the fork into the slave, I heard a squirting noise. Looked at the resivor for the master cylinder and I seen fluid leaking of the cap. Bad cap? I tried this again after some more bleeding and it doesnt do it any more. At least the last I checked.

I am hoping its something stupid like the cap or maybe a bad piece of shit no good advanced auto slave cylinder. What is your opinion?

 

[pauleyman]

You are supposed to be able to push the slave back in. This how a hydraulic clutch adjusts as the clutch itself wears. If you adjust it to where it can't that explains the slipping. The system will pump up and it's sort of like you are riding the clutch. Complete engagement can only happen if the slave it not pushing on the fork. Yes it sits there but it's not applying any pressure usually. You pushed it in so far you got fluid out of the master. What step height is the flywheel machined? If you don't know that could be a problem.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

You are supposed to be able to push the slave back in. This how a hydraulic clutch adjusts as the clutch itself wears. If you adjust it to where it can't that explains the slipping. The system will pump up and it's sort of like you are riding the clutch. Complete engagement can only happen if the slave it not pushing on the fork. Yes it sits there but it's not applying any pressure usually. You pushed it in so far you got fluid out of the master. What step height is the flywheel machined? If you don't know that could be a problem.

In Jafro's Youtube video on adjusting the master rod, he says if you turn the rod so no threads are showing, you will not be able to push the fork all the way into the slave. It will be rock solid. But, that is not the case for me. I can push mine in regardless of where the master adjustment is.

Flywheel was not touched. I inspected it and there were no hot spots anywhere.

Another thing, my pedal feels very very soft. On my old stock clutch, it was much stiffer/harder if that makes any sense.

 

[pauleyman]

Bleed it again or check the pedal assembly. I've seen the pedal itself crack and you don't get as much leverage on the master.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

I am having the same problem. I adjusted it, new act 2100, fork, pivot, slave and master, ss line. Still slipping at a mofo. I'm so fed up with it. I'm just seeing if there something that pops up that I havent tried.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Bleed it again or check the pedal assembly. I've seen the pedal itself crack and you don't get as much leverage on the master.

Did not see any cracks in the pedal itself.

I am having the same problem. I adjusted it, new act 2100, fork, pivot, slave and master, ss line. Still slipping at a mofo. I'm so fed up with it. I'm just seeing if there something that pops up that I havent tried.

Same here. Hoping someone is able to give some great advice so I can put the car back on the road until it breaks again

One more thing. Trying to remember everything that seemed odd to me. When I release the pedal, it comes up but not all the way. I can pull it up with my hand an inch or so.

 

[onefast2gdsm]

Step height for the flywheel probably isnt right for that clutch or you have a hudraulic issue

 

[fourgsixthree33]

I don't really know where to begin to look. Like I don't know what is the very first thing to do. I can't keep trying things and then hop in the car and go WOT to see if it still slips. I really don't want to screw this clutch up.

I guess I am going to put my master rod where I want it. I would like to keep it closer to the floor. (Like your GST was Chris aka onefast2gdsm). Then I am also going to look over the clutch line thoroughly. Next I am going to see if the axles are seated.

If this doesn't help anything, I am going to go get a new slave. Then...I will probably shoot myself .

Yet another thing I just remembered. When I first start the car, there is about 1-2 seconds worth of rattling coming from under the front of the car. After this 1-2 seconds, it goes away even when revving.

 

[Selling4G63TParts]

I had the same problem and ended up having to replace my clutch slave cylinder and master.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

I had the same problem and ended up having to replace my clutch slave cylinder and master.

Thank you. Hearing from others that had experienced this issue is huge. I already installed a new OEM master. Just need to try a slave.

 

[uummm]

Have you tried taking some of the shims out of the pivot ball? If there is too many it may be keeping pressure on your pressure plate (ie clutch not releasing all the way).

 

[pauleyman]

Just need to try a slave.

Don't confuse engagement and disengagement. If the clutch does not DISengage you could need a new slave so you'll be able to shift. You want the clutch to ENgage which doesn't have anything to do with the slave UNLESS you're over adjusted. If you can push the slave back into it's bore then you do not have a hydraulic issue concerning ENgagement. If the clutch is slipping under these conditions the problem lies in the clutch or flywheel itself.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Thanks for the replies. I was thinking the same thing on the shims. I used two shims but they were fairly thick washers. Very well could be too many thus causing my slipping issue. Anyone else have some insite on the shims?

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Found something out last night. I drove the car 250 miles total yesterday. I found out that if I launch and shift from gear to gear quickly, the clutch will slip. But if I push in the clutch, shift to neutral, push the clutch in again, then upshift, it will not spin. Though, this is still without the MBC so it is only running 10psi.

It seems almost as if the slave cylinder isn't fully retracting as fast as it should be.

 

[Twinturbo120]

Found something out last night. I drove the car 250 miles total yesterday. I found out that if I launch and shift from gear to gear quickly, the clutch will slip. But if I push in the clutch, shift to neutral, push the clutch in again, then upshift, it will not spin. Though, this is still without the MBC so it is only running 10psi.

It seems almost as if the slave cylinder isn't fully retracting as fast as it should be.

From the way you explained the pedal and now this, it's most likely the slave. Make sure to get an oem one and bleed it to hell.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Where does your pedal let out?

 

[Crash429]

I would say try another slave cylinder man, had the same problem a few years back on my Mazda, an it was a junk slave cylinder, exchanged it at the local auto parts store installed an bled the system an worked fine, a lot of new parts are faulty an junk before u even install them, just try exchanging it 1st an c if that works an if it does u wlnt b spending more cash on parts you dnt need

 

[pauleyman]

A clutch will slip when shifting quickly because you are still in the power band. Stay out of the power band and it might hold. I do not believe the problem is in the slave IF you can push it in by hand. Slaves don't retract, they are pushed back in via the fork. Since you can push yours in my guess is as far as hydraulics are concerned things are working as they should as far as ENgagement goes. Since we are talking about an engagement issue here not a disengagement issue. People keep telling you to get a slave but we are talking about engagement issues. If a slave releases...then it releases. Hell a leaking slave would release too but it damn sure couldn't disengage the clutch. If you have step height correct, didn't get any grease on anything then the only thing left I can see if the hydraulics being preloaded because of those shims. Shims are a bandaid to cover up something else. Just for reference when chasing down your disengagement problem were those OEM master and slave cylinders?

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Thanks for the replies guys!

Master is OEM. Slave is from Advanced Auto.

I am probably going to drive over to Advanced Auto tomorrow, exchange the slave cylinder right in the parking lot. It is warrantied so I won't be spending any money.

If that doesn't change anything, I will probably plan a weekend to drop the trans and remove the shims before spending money on another slave. I need an OEM one anyway, I know. But I too am leaving more towards the pivot ball being shimmed too much.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

If you can push the slave back in then the fork isn't keeping pressure on the pp. if you can push out by hand for sure the pp is pushing the fork all the way off. one shim isn't going to push the fork into the pp to the point of releasing pressure off the friction disk.
You need to adjust it so engagement is in the middle of pedal travel. If it slips then, your clutch setup has an issue in itself. Pp to weak or something. Thats all there is to it. If the fork completly releases pressure of the pp then the clutch setup is an issue.