install battery in trunk questions

[ivan98gst]

Hi guys, i know there is a couple of threads about this subject. The reason why i had to start this one is because the other ones had pics that where removed.

i am new to the dsm world, so i am not that knowledgible
these are the things i have forthe relocation of the battery to trunk
1. Optima red top battery
2.battery tray
3.hold down kit from pep boys
4.19 feet of 0 gauge cables

i need circuit breakers, how many? what size? where do i place them.
how do i connect the positive cable to the starter/ fuse box?
if u guys have step by step instructions that would be great! and pics would help thank you guys

 

[ivan98gst]

theses would do?

 

[98GSXtreme07]

Well, I know you already bought your kit but here's one for reference.

STM DSM BATTERY RELOCATION KIT

 

[ivan98gst]

so i should buy 2 200amp breakers
by any chance do u know the steps to do this mod?

 

[98GSXtreme07]

Well me, no. But as you said previously you have searched. So try searching to find how to do this properly.

 

[1gDSM4g63]

I would look into the JM Fabrications relocation kit first before you consider the trunk. You got to know your stuff if you do move your battery into the trunk. Some people I know with all the necessarily breakers, wires, etc... are still having issues and by no means they knew what they were doing as they are ASE and MECP certified technicians.

 

[98GSXtreme07]

Huh... Here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/294595-battery-relocation-w-diagram.html

Hope this helps!

Others:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/19070-battery-relocation-merged-3-8-a.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/146619-battery-relocation-alcoholism.html

 

[housegsx]

I was going to link you to a thread of mine but it was merged and now it's impossible to follow.

Here's the link to the merge. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/19070-battery-relocation-merged-3-8-a.html

 

[ivan98gst]

ok guys so this is where im at,
im going to mount the battery in the corner of the trunk where the cd changer use to go.
i have 0 ga. wires, do i need the distributer block?
i dont go to the track so i dont need a seald box but if i was to go i need to get a sealed box eaven though its a optima?

 

[98GSXtreme07]

In the last picture, is that a Hallman MBC just "chillen" there? WTF

 

[ivan98gst]

yess it is,
i didnt run it that way!
the guys who droped the engine in for me decided to justb put it there!!!

 

[Project2G]

Well, I know you already bought your kit but here's one for reference.

STM DSM BATTERY RELOCATION KIT

I have this kit I bought 7 months ago and it was a great kit. I have a yellow top battery. Go on there site and see what else you need.

 

[ivan98gst]

like i said you can alwways do it the getto way

i dont uderstand the way u are saying

 

[evileclipse909]

I only used 1 130amp cb mounted on the same panel right above the battery. I also mounted my battey in that same place. Up in the front I extended the 4 wires going to the fuse box with some 8g wire I had laying around and mounted the junction block on the firewall right over the car tag. You do not need to mount the optima in a box in order to race at the track. You however will need an externally mounted cut off switch. I wired mine to the negative side of the battery behind the liscence plate. You can few the I took of mine in my profile.

 

[ivan98gst]

thats what i did, i cant find breakers for 0 ga wires

 

[blacktopmenace]

If I'm not mistaken the 0 awg is overkill bro... the wires on ya battery should be like a 6 gauge.
0 gauge is rated is rated @ 245 amps, your starter should only draw 90, I think!! -- If I were you I'd cop some 6 or maybe 4 guage and run that instead... the terminations r smaller n easier to mount to a breaker. In fact the link 98GSX dropped looks str8 but I think even there the breaker is too high overload protection; 100 amps might cut it. I'd consult a shop homie!!

If I'm not mistaken, the 0 awg is overkill. The wires on the battery should be around 6 gauge. 0 gauge is rated at 245 amps. Your starter should only draw about 90. If I were you, I would use some 6 or 5 gauge and run that instead. The terminations are smaller and easier to mount to a breaker. In fact, the link 98GSX posted looks correct, but I think even there the breaker is too high of an overload protection; 100 amps might suffice. If you are unsure, consult a shop.

Quick correction>> "make sure thats 6 or 4 gauge man, you'd be hard pressed to find 5 gauge wire.... good luck!"

 

[blacktopmenace]

Heres a breaker too if you lookin....

Wire Terminals, Electrical Wire, & Electrical Supplies

 

[housegsx]

Or Welcome to Waytek Wire

The reason for using a larger gauge wire is to account for voltage drop over the longer wire.

 

[blacktopmenace]

On the real, the levels of IR drop you'll encounter are practically non-existent. IR=Vt x R1 Plug in the numbers and heres what you get....

6awg- .000395 ohms per ft @ 15 ft. for R1 equals approx. 0.005925 ohms
12 volts for Vt
IR=12 x 0.005925=0.0711

So, you lose 0.0711 of a volt approx. if my math is on point. Nothin the blink at kid!! But, whatever works....

 

[kristmen]

Wow, I need to start selling battery relocation kits. Those breakers can be had for $5 dollars each and you can get 20 foot of 4gauge for just over $20 dollars for GOOD stuff.

Forget using car audio 4 gauge. That wire is the cheapest overpriced crap made. Buy welding wire.

The copper strands inside of it are SO thin, that it is flexible enough to wrap around your hand even in 4 gauge with zero effort. Because it has more thin strands then say the stuff your local car audio place sells, it conducts better. More thinner strands conducts better then less larger strands.

https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:terms::PA

Now if you really want to see some good stuff, that Superflex is nice but it's $2.25 a foot. The $0.83 cent a foot red stuff works fine.

My whole install, start to end.

I ordered welding wire, I bought 3 of those breakers in 200amp because they were $4.75 each. Wire came, breakers came.

I disconnected my battery, I ripped out the tray and left the wires hanging. I got rid of the negative cables. I ran the 4ga wire under my floor carpet along the passenger side door from front to back. I drilled a hole, I ran the wire threw the firewall above the passenger side floor mat, just at the top of the floor carpet. I de-burred the hole so it wouldn't chew up the wire. I filled in around the wire with Permatex Ultra Gray.

I crimped on one of those gold 4ga wire terminals, $1.49 for a two pack at Wal-Mart, bought two packs. I ran a bolt threw that and threw the positive wiring at the engine bay, I put a nut on and secured the mess with zip ties so nothing could touch.

Next I went to the trunk. I cut that end of the wire to length and connected another gold terminal. I connected it to the breaker. I cut a 12~18 inch piece of the wire and crimped terminal connectors to each end and connected one to the other side of the breaker, then the other to the positive on the battery.

I cut a 3 foot chunk of the 4ga, this piece in black and crimped on terminals to both sides, connected one to the batteries negative, the other side to a back seat bolt. I flipped on the breaker and reset my car stereo.

Done. Took 20~30 minutes. Zero issues, did this 4 years ago.

Oh, I did use some of the left over black 4ga to make some grounding cables and I ran a couple heavy duty grounding cables in the engine bay and one from the exhaust to the body.

The wire you have is way over kill and you can get damn near the same resistance with higher strand, smaller gauge welding wire.

 

[98GSXtreme07]

^Pictures? I would like to see how it looks in your engine bay side.

 

[ivan98gst]

what about the engine bay side?
well i didnt use the fuse blocks but i took a pic of the battery in the trunk