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Innovate wideband

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overboosted1g

10+ Year Contributor
744
6
Jan 13, 2010
washington, Michigan
OK so I'm buying a wideband and I've narrowed my choices to either an innovate lc-1 or an innovate mtx-l. I've seen a bunch of reviews for the lc-1 with the DB gauge but not to many for the new mtx-l. My question is should I spend the extra money and get the mtx-l or is the lc1 just as good.

Sent from my HERO200 using Tapatalk
 
The reason you aren't seeing the reviews on the other is that it just came out recently. Personally, I say get the new one and do a proper product review on it.

One plus about the MTX-L is that everything is contained in the gauge, and doesn't have the extra box like the LC-1 has. However, this could also be a con depending on how deep the gauge is and where you plan to mount it.
 
I have mine mounted in the center vent with a boost gauge from autometer. The depth of these two gauges are the same. Warm up is about 10-20 seconds.
 
I have mine mounted in the center vent with a boost gauge from autometer. The depth of these two gauges are the same. Warm up is about 10-20 seconds.

I was also trying to decide between the two and almost set my mind on the LC-1 and a friend said "No get the AEM." He said the reason is the LC-1 (and I assume the MTX-L as well) requires that warm up and if you don't let it warm up you fry the sensor which is of course expensive to replace. And he said the AEM doesn't need to do that.

Is all this correct? Thoughts?
 
Yes, I believe the sensor starts warming up as soon as it sees power.

You have to take the sensor out of the exhaust every so often to open air calibrate it, yes. I believe their instructions say a 1-2 times a year for a normal car, more often if you race.

I believe you can get replacement sensors locally, although I've never had to or needed to do that yet.
 
I'd much Rather have a Sensor that "that has to be" calibrated then one that can not be... Or "comes" calibrated.

But in any event here from the Inovatte LC-1 Manual
 

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Oh that is very helpful. Thank you. Just to clarify though on warming up, from the sounds of it, is it OK to start the car immediately without waiting and drive? Or does that hurt the sensor?

EDIT: Well maybe I should read the manual first..

EDIT 2: I have remote start so I can let the car warm up a bit before driving. Would that pose an issue?

EDIT 3: (Last one promise) I cannot just connect the wideband to my existing O2 sensor right? The one through the O2 housing (or the rear?)? It says to connect after the turbo and before the cat which that would be but it is not a replacement for the stock O2 correct?
 
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It is recommended to let the sensor warm-up, NOT THE CAR. You will need to wire the LC-1 into a ignition source, many people use the fuel pump relay. So once you turn the key to the accessory position the LED will begin to flash, once it stops flashing & steadily lit (sensor warmed-up) you then start the car.

If you are asking if you can "plug" the WBO2 sensor wire into the factory O2 harness than NO. If you are asking if you can install/screw the WBO2 sensor into the stock O2 sensor housing location than YES. I personally have mine screwed into the factory O2 housing because you will have the highest degree of accuracy in this location for reading afr's. Some people feel this is too close to the exhaust outlet and can cause pre-mature failure of the O2 sensor because of over-heating. I have gone through one sensor with a led status indication of an "over-temp" but it lasted 15 months with about 5 tanks of leaded fuel ran through it as well. I have found Bosch replacement O2's for $45 so I'm not really worried about frying an O2 sensor once in a blue moon, I actually keep a spare.

Another benefit of the Innovate WBO2's is they target 2.5v for stoich (14.7 afr) which is excellent for engine management systems that target 2.5v for closed loop operation. They simply are packed full of features/programability that the other brands don't have for the same cost.

**EDIT: DIS-REGARD THE PORTION OF LETTING THE SENSOR WARM-UP PRIOR TO STARTING THE CAR. I'M INCORRECT
 
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I got my LC1 working today, great so far. Have a question though while I'm thinking of it for the people with the LC1. Were you successful in reprogramming the second output (yellow wire) for wideband instead of narrow band like it comes? I read in another thread that the guy suggested not messing with the LC1 firm ware because he tried to switch the output and ending up having to send the sensor module back to innovate to fix it, somehow he screwed it up beyond repair. I have left mine alone for now but I did run the wire into the passenger comp. so I would have it available for logging in the future.
 
^^You can't screw the module up unless he somehow hooked the second output wire up to a 12v source, that would probably cause a problem. I actually used & programmed the secondary output first just so I knew how to use the software and functionality of the LC-1. Very simple imo, I enjoy the fact that I have more resolution across a "useable" afr range vs other brands of wbo2's. Mine is programmed to read 10:1-18:1 from 0-5volts, I really don't see any reason to read under 10:1 afr or above 18:1, obviously you are too rich or lean at that point so I'm utilizing my 0-5volt range on only 8 points of afr vs 12 or more since most span from 7.5:1-22:1
 
Since I have remote start I was wondering what it does as far as the reason it is recommended to "warm up" the gauge. I just called Innovate Tech Support and they said "that is exactly what you should NOT do." You should just start the car not turn it to ACC for a little bit then start the car. And he said that is the same for all their products.

Just some helpful information for those who do warm it up or were curious.
 
Ive had my mtx-l for a while now with no issues. I'm using link and got everything to match perfect. Also I just start my car and when it's done warming up I drive off. You shouldn't really be just starting your car and taking off anyway. It's always good to let it warm up a bit.
 
Oh yeah I always let my car warm up before driving to let the oil circulate through the turbo. I just thought it would be annoying to wait to turn on the car for the gauge to warm up. But apparently you're not supposed to anyway.
 
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