Ingalls camber arm imitation (Raybestos) - 3SX control arm

[dikdiamond]

I found this on Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto and wondered if it was maybe remarked or just a flat out imitation. It looks like the old Smartarm from the VFaq. It's priced at $65.79 and I've found the Ingalls at Summit for $80.95,per arm. Think it would be worth trying out? I can't seem to find much info on it. More Information for SPICER/RAYBESTOS 6111102

I think I found a good deal on the Ingalls eBay Motors: INGALLS 90-94 ECLIPSE/TALON AWD FRONT & REAR CAMBER KIT (item 360128426210 end time Feb-10-09 14:36:34 PST)

$197.99 shipped,includes the front camber as well

Still curious,though,about those Raybestos arms.

 

[Icarus]

I have these on my car. They do the same job and they replace the inner bushing with a heim joint. 3kgt and 1G suspension is nearly identical. They're a good vendor and more affordable than that eBay link.Control Arms 3SX TT Camber - Mitsubishi 3000GT / Dodge Stealth

 

[Ludachris]

I have these on my car. They do the same job and they replace the inner bushing with a heim joint. 3kgt and 1G suspension is nearly identical. They're a good vendor and more affordable than that eBay link.Control Arms 3SX TT Camber#-#Mitsubishi 3000GT#/#Dodge Stealth

I was just going to recommend 3SX as well. I'll be adding their upper rear control arms to our Racing Guides here shortly. If you're going to replace the control arms, might as well get some performance pieces and replace the rubber bushings. Probably the best performance set of rear adjustable upper control arms you'll find, and these cost less than the Ingalls kits at $149.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[marcmsj]

I was just going to recommend 3SX as well. I'll be adding their upper rear control arms to our Racing Guides here shortly. If you're going to replace the control arms, might as well get some performance pieces without the rubber bushings.

So you're saying they work on 1g's? Any modifications required?

 

[toofast82]

I was just going to recommend 3SX as well. I'll be adding their upper rear control arms to our Racing Guides here shortly. If you're going to replace the control arms, might as well get some performance pieces without the rubber bushings.

Nice find guys! Does anyone have any pics installed on 1g?

 

[Icarus]

I will get some when I get home this afternoon. I've just been too lazy to crawl under my car for pictures

 

[Ludachris]

Nice find guys! Does anyone have any pics installed on 1g?

I haven't had a chance to install mine just yet. But will post a quick write-up when I do.

 

[Artago]

Anything like this available for the us 2G guys?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[mavisky]

Camber bolts are near worthless on 1g's, get plates and be done with it.

 

[Ludachris]

Camber bolts are near worthless on 1g's, get plates and be done with it.

No he's talking about the Ingalls rear upper control arm replacement, not the bolts for the front.

 

[tsiboosted]

Anything like this available for the us 2G guys?

Thanks,

Tom

I have not found anything like that for 2G's Tom. I haven't looked extremely haard yet. The only control arms I could even find for 2G's are the SPC upper control arms that RRE has. Lets you adjust the camber -2.5 to +3.5 and caster -1.25 to +1.25. But I have not found any for the rears as of yet. Maybe I jsut have not looked hard enough. Who knows....

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Icarus]

Ok here are the picts. Sorry for the poor quality it's dark and my camera is old.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

For removal. I think it was either a 17mm or 19mm for the all the nuts and bolts. Knocked the outside loose with a impact wrench separated it with a pickle fork. The inside nut/bolt is an eccentric camber bolt I couldn't tell which side was the nut, so do not over torque the wrong side or you could damage the camber bolt.

For installation. Grease the outside joint with a grease gun before install. I attached the inside with the camber bolt and adjusted it all the way in. This ensures no further inward movement is possible when under load. There is more than enough outward adjustability in the control arm. The outboard connection I just tightened the nut until I could insert the cotter pin and called it good.

I hope this helps anyone interested in this. I wanted to do a proper writeup but it was part of my EVO suspension install and was more concerned with getting all that work done in time and my car up and running again.

 

[Artago]

I have not found anything like that for 2G's Tom. I haven't looked extremely haard yet. The only control arms I could even find for 2G's are the SPC upper control arms that RRE has. Lets you adjust the camber -2.5 to +3.5 and caster -1.25 to +1.25. But I have not found any for the rears as of yet. Maybe I jsut have not looked hard enough. Who knows....

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Hey Eddie. I've actually been browsing this upper control arm for a while. I'm not sold yet, but if it works better then the alternatives then I'll probably pick up a set (when I get around to doing my suspension). Do you use these for road racing? If not, what do you use?

Tom

EDIT: Nevermind, I see that you use Ingalls. Any problems with them? I had a set on my old Talon and every time I hit a bump they would slip throwing off my alignment. It was a real pain.

 

[tsiboosted]

Hey Eddie. I've actually been browsing this upper control arm for a while. I'm not sold yet, but if it works better then the alternatives then I'll probably pick up a set (when I get around to doing my suspension). Do you use these for road racing? If not, what do you use?

Tom

EDIT: Nevermind, I see that you use Ingalls. Any problems with them? I had a set on my old Talon and every time I hit a bump they would slip throwing off my alignment. It was a real pain.

Tom - Yeah, I use the Ingalls kits right now. I have not had any issues yet with them. But I only track my car so I wouldnt hit as many bumps as most people that daily drive their cars. I also have been looking at those arms for a while but the price was always throwing me back to finding something else. But tax season is here and I am torn now to hold on to my money for new tires or go ahead and pick these arms up.

One thing I do and its just become habit after while is after every run I make I go over the car and nut and bolt it on the areas that take the most abuse. ie suspension, brakes etc. etc. to make sure nothing is loose. And I check the camber after every run as well to make sure it has not moved.

 

[Ludachris]

So you're saying they work on 1g's? Any modifications required?

I haven't test fitted my own yet, but I've talked to a couple people that have. Turns out the 3si rear suspension is very similar to our 1G AWD - some pieces being almost identical. In theory, you could probably swap out the rear brakes too, but I'm not sure how cost effective that would be.

 

[Icarus]

When my rear pads go out I am going to replace the whole thing with a 3kgt setup. I need to justify it somehow to the old lady The problems that I see are 4 bolts rears are required, an issue for earlier 1Gs. Also the e-brake cable will need to be swapped/spliced/adapted. The other parts should be easily adapted though. The rear subframe looks near identaical in design, just spaced more widely apart on the 3kgt. We already know the upper control arms are close enough to swap.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Damn, I was actually pricing out what materials it would cost me to start producing these and selling them to the DSM crowd. Looks like someone beat me to it!

 

[AndrewD5418]

Two hiem joints would be better!

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

I'll keep that in mind. I was thinking about using DOM tubing with some tube ends and Heim joints.

 

[dan catalyst]

i was thinking about building a rear camber kit like the ingalls when i cam across all the parts they use in te kit.now, i havent tried this yet, but i will soon and let everyone know.
here are the rod ends, the spacers seem a little wide(picture is with one spacer, but two are included) but could be cut down pretty pretty easy.
3/4" Rod End Kit For Tubular Lower
here is the swedged tube,again i dont know what length to order,but will figure it out this weekend.
SWEDGED STEEL TUBE, 3/4" THREAD
and here is the tie rod end,i have one of these from a hotrod project,and it looks exactly like the ingalls one,except the zerk fitting is on the end and not the side.
'48-'64 Ford Outer Tie Rods
also check these out for $28 each, they would need some spacers on the rod end side, but that couldnt be that hard to find.
IMCA Approved Tie Rod Assemblies
ill go ahead and guine pig these,,and find out what we need exactly and post back with pictures.stay tuned!

 

[99gst_racer]

Thanks for the info on the parts, dan catalyst. I got a queston, though. It seems that the thread on the lower stud of the tie rod end is 11/16" thread. It appears it would have to be 3/4" to work with those swedge tubes. Am I missing something?

 

[PIMking]

I just bought the DME kit from Extremepsi because I had to get a AFPR too. I just couldn't afford those right this moment. I will probably get them some time down the road but its just going to have to wait. now I have to get the front camber bolts. Since the KYB GR-2's dont have any way to adjust the camber.

 

[Kapok6]

coming back from the dead. I can;t see the pics from the 1G install. Has anyone else done this? I am considering getting these for my 91 AWD insead of the ingalls...