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In serious need of help, not sure what makes my car run for 5 seconds and shut off

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92tsi89

Probationary Member
6
0
Nov 2, 2009
Milford, Massachusetts
Alright, hello everyone who is reading this, i'm a newbie to the dsm forums, but not to cars or dsms. This however has got me in a real pickle.

I recently aquired a 1992 tsi AWD.
It's the 2.0 engine with automatic transmission.
It'll start, and try to idle and choke out and die.
I honestly think it's a fueling issue possibly fpr or pump.

I had a chip made for my 680cc injectors
and made it so the fuel pressure is set to 43 psi.
I'm running on stock pump and regulator however.
Do you think this issue has something to do with the fact i don't have an aftermarket pump or regulator?

Like I said it starts everytime, i can rev it to redline if i wanted, but after 5 seconds no matter if i floor the gas or i don't it'll die out at idle.

Mods are as follows.
680 cc injectors
MAF Translator GM
FMIC with MAF in the piping
Intake on turbo.
3" catless exhaust, tial 38mm WG
20G td05 turbo with custom manifold
wiseco pistons
eagle rods
ipt shift kit on automatic transmission
4500 stall converter
brian crower cams 280 280
brian crower springs and retainers

Had my chip made from Jeff at DSMchips.com
set my idle to 800 rpms, fuel pressure to 43 psi, no open loop, injector size set to 680cc's, and this is all on my stock fuel system

I'm thinking of all the possibilities, vaccuum pressure at idle seems normal for the 5 seconds it runs, my buddy and i think it's fuel issues. Any help please!?
 
I would pick up a 190 walbro fuel pump for sure. How does a 1g's fuel pressure that is stock at 37 psi go to 43 psi with just a chip? I think you should at least upgrade it to a 2g fuel regulator or go aftermarket with a built in gauge. Do you have a logger? Or wideband? Maybe your running too rich and it's flooding the motor out. Any CELs? Have you had your ECU tested? Might have blown a capicator.
 
Thanks for the reply
Jeff at DSM chips socketed it for eprom and everything i needed.
I don't have a logger or any type of software for that.

Believe it or not I didn't illuminate any engine lights.

Stock fuel was 37psi but Jeff suggested 43psi
Any place you know of that I could get a 190 and a regulator?

I've seen some on ebay but I'm not sure what to buy?
I had it all done by dsmchips.com
I just put in everything I wanted and Jeff took care of it.

The fueling is the only thing that's really stock on this car.?
 
Just search the Classifieds on here. 4g63 parts. You can pick up a walbro 190 lph fuel pump for aroun $60. An AFPR will cost you anywhere from $80 to $150 depending on brand and if it has a built in gauge. Do not go ebay with fuel. You want reliability. Anything that does not move is fine to go ebay (ie Radiators, FMIC, SMIC, Piping, Intake, and reputable brand name parts).

Be sure to check the part out sections too. Might be able to snag a whole fuel system for cheap.
 
I would pick up a 190 walbro fuel pump for sure. How does a 1g's fuel pressure that is stock at 37 psi go to 43 psi with just a chip? I think you should at least upgrade it to a 2g fuel regulator or go aftermarket with a built in gauge. Do you have a logger? Or wideband? Maybe your running too rich and it's flooding the motor out. Any CELs? Have you had your ECU tested? Might have blown a capicator.

He said it was automatic so the fuel presure would be 43 psi from factory,but anyway i dont think you have a fuel problem if you can rev it to redline,i woud try swapping out the mpi relay if you have a spare first.
 
But wouldnt a lack of fuel from a stock pump with big 680cc injectors cause it to shut off like it does after 5 seconds?

Not sure if the regulator is screwed up, i'd much rather just spend a small amount at a time you know?

Could it be anything else besides fuel?
And where is that fuse located??

Thanks for all the help everyone, I appreciate it.
 
So we've got...

1) Need bigger aftermarket pump 190 lph
2) mpi sensor
3) new FPR
4) Cam sensor.

It will rev up and try to idle at 800rpms.
I unplugged the IAC Valve for the hell of it, but it just revs up to 1300 rpms for 4 secs and dies.

I'm lost. :/

Any other ideas guys?
What could possibly do this?

My buddy is telling me Cam angle sensor/ cam shaft sensor makes alot of sense because its not calculating rotations of the cams making the engine confused as to whether its really running or not?

Idk seems plausible, runs for legit 5 seconds, sometimes 8 ha :/
 
I will look to see if i have a m.p.i fuse for you. Just in case. What really needs done is someone to listen to the pump and see if you here it shut off or run slugish. You know there is a small plug that will give the fuel pump power all the time i will go snap a picture of it. It is located directly behind the battery it is taped to the wiring loom by the ground terminal of the battery. I remove the tape and insert a piece of wire into the opening then i take a small aligator clip and attach it to the wire and the other end to the positive terminal of the battery. this will turn on the fuel pump and will not shut off. The car does not even need to be running. You will here it well with the car off. It is possible that the fuel filter is clogged as well. Here the photo's.






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Sounds like a cam sensor to me as well. The cam sensor tells the mpi relay to click the fuel pump on if it sees rotation from the engine. Try starting the car with the fuel pump trick posted above and see if it helps.

The weird part is that it starts up every time then fails every time... Typically a dead or dying sensor won't act like that, but I have seen stranger things I guess.
 
I decided to add a little more.
Firstly thank you everyone for all these suggestions

car is in New Hampshire currently, gutta get it trailored home since I live 80 miles from it and have taken 6 trips there so far, gas at $2.79 a gallon and a gas sucking Legacy GT LOL.

Anyways, back to the topic on hand, idk if it means anything or not.
The MAFT translator is installed in it, arrow faces away from the bumper and points towards firewall correct?
And if so, why is it I can start the car with it unplugged and it acts no differently than when it is plugged in?

Really makes me wonder if something is up with that?
Do i have the maft installed right, i didn't hook up white wire to CAM angle Sensor
Arrow points to firewall on the MAF... is the Maf malfunctioning?

I'm going to try all the tricks of the trade listed above and hopefully make some progress.
In the meantime I've got some waiting to do, and wondering about that maf... hmm. DSM's LOL
 
?...fuel filter...? Seen that also many times... Plugged filter fills slowly just enough to get the gas to the injectors, but when injectors open up and takes the demand, there isn't enough to replenish the injectors ....

..my .02 worth ...

-DSM
 
When it does start how's the idle? Is it smooth, rough, erratic? It sounds to me like it's getting fuel while it's cranking over but once it starts it's just running the fuel out of the lines and then stalls. You need to test the fuel pump like stated earlier and you also need a way to monitor the fuel pressure while it's running and stalling out. Testing the fuel pressure on the stock setup is kinda difficult though because there are no pressure fittings on the rail so you'd have to test it at the lines by the fuel filter. The best thing to do at this point would be to tow it to your garage and figure it out there. Driving 80 miles to diagnose a no start is kind of pointless as you've probably already spent more in gas driving back and forth then it would cost for the tow home. If you have tour own trailer just get it home and diagnose it from the comfort of your own garage.
 
I had the same happen to me and it ended up being one of the wires from the maf was broken, I would def check that first
 
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