I'm getting what feels like some severe drivetrain resistance

[Gleason]

Alright, ill get this info stated first.. My car has a front driver side bad wheel bearing, most likely a rusted hub assemlby, and i'm unsure of my tranny and diff fluid at this exact moment. [ waiting for a friend to get here before i jack up the car and check ]

I started my car this morning, and I really needed to rev when pulling my car out of my lawn [ driveway is supposed to get sealed, so i couldnt park on it last night]. Anyways, i started accelerating and my acceleration seemed VERY hampered. As if there was resistance in the drivetrain. I hit a stop sign, stopped , and then went off in first like i normally do, and as soon as the clutch grabbed fully, the rpms dropped quite a bit more than normal. It also sounds like my front driverside wheel was also making some wierd clunking noise, unless its the axle below my feet.

I'm just trying to figure out if it could be from the wheel bearing and a rusted hub assembly, or could it be an axle? or diff fluids?

The 'drivetrain resistance' went away after about 1-3 minutes of driving. I could still feel it somewhat, but nowheres near as bad as when i first started and drove the car. Thats why i am wondering if it could be from my diff and Tcase fluids?

Are there any good gear oils i can pick up at autozone/advanced auto that i wouldn't have to order online and wait for [ IE - the redline heavy gear oil ] ? . I want to fill it with some decent gear oil to hold me over for a week or so until i get some redline stuff orderd and at my door and have time to change fluids again.

 

[MyBeatGSX]

My car does the same thing minus the noises. When its cold it sometimes feels like I'm driving with the ebrake on (ok maybe not quite that bad) and its like it need to get into boost just to slowly accelerate it up to normal speed, until it warms up. But it does go away when it warms up. My trans fluid is fairly new BG syncro, not sure about the rest of the driveline fluids.

I never thought much of the problem because everything on the car including the gas pedel, shifter, etc feels stiff on cold mornings and it all goes away after a few minutes of driving.

 

[Gleason]

hhmmm I wonder if its common? When i had my 'resistance feeling' it was a fairly cold morning.

should be getting the fluids changed tonight in Tcase and rear diff if all goes well. I'll report back if i still have it in a future cold morning.

 

[jaredgsx]

replace your wheel bearings, they could be getting locked up.

 

[92awddsm]

Does the car try to slow when the clutch is pressed? If so, check the transfer case fluid. Thats a good sign that something isnt getting proper lubricant. Actually, if it was me, I would be out checking all my fluids instead of posting here about it.

 

[MyBeatGSX]

I'm pretty sure after 108k and a previous owner that didn't know the meaning of preventative maintainace (hey if it hasn't blown up it must be just fine, right?) I think its probably time to skip the check and just replace everything.

Any recommended brands or weights that are different than stock? I'm assuming the rear LSD needs a special fluid.

Not to get off topic, but since I mentioned the LSD.... Is the center diff a clutch or viscious type and whats the torque split like? My car seems to like the spin the front wheels in the rain, possibly related to a driveline fluid problem causing the drag?

 

[Gleason]

replace your wheel bearings, they could be getting locked up.

i am trying. called the place, they are ordering the part monday [ they arent open on sunday] and hopefully it gets done tuesday morning.

Does the car try to slow when the clutch is pressed? If so, check the transfer case fluid. Thats a good sign that something isnt getting proper lubricant. Actually, if it was me, I would be out checking all my fluids instead of posting here about it.

main reason why i posted, was because no one was home. I dont work under my car until at least someone else is around incase i happened to injure myself.

i had free time before someone could come over, and decided to just get some insight.

I'm pretty sure after 108k and a previous owner that didn't know the meaning of preventative maintainace (hey if it hasn't blown up it must be just fine, right?) I think its probably time to skip the check and just replace everything.

Any recommended brands or weights that are different than stock? I'm assuming the rear LSD needs a special fluid.

Not to get off topic, but since I mentioned the LSD.... Is the center diff a clutch or viscious type and whats the torque split like? My car seems to like the spin the front wheels in the rain, possibly related to a driveline fluid problem causing the drag?

Changed rear diff fluid last night. going to try and change Tcase fluid in a few minutes.

 

[92awddsm]

I'm pretty sure after 108k and a previous owner that didn't know the meaning of preventative maintainace (hey if it hasn't blown up it must be just fine, right?) I think its probably time to skip the check and just replace everything.

Any recommended brands or weights that are different than stock? I'm assuming the rear LSD needs a special fluid.

Not to get off topic, but since I mentioned the LSD.... Is the center diff a clutch or viscious type and whats the torque split like? My car seems to like the spin the front wheels in the rain, possibly related to a driveline fluid problem causing the drag?

After everything is "REPLACED", he could have bought a new car for the same amount. Have you priced a transfer case, rear diff, and wheel bearings for your car lately? If it needed them all, you would probably either sell it or let it sit for some time. That would defeat the purpose of having a dsm, you know, cheap horsepower.

And the center diff is neither clutch or vicious. Its just basically a 2 spider open diff. Split can be considered eithe 50/50 or variable, depending on if any wheel spin or which are spinning.

You suggestion on the full replacements are good but at the same time, kinda stupid. If you can afford to replace everything, you are either a die hard dsm'er or just have money to piss away. Chances are, if you just had money to piss away, you wouldnt have "the poor mans race car".

 

[Gleason]

After everything is "REPLACED", he could have bought a new car for the same amount. Have you priced a transfer case, rear diff, and wheel bearings for your car lately? If it needed them all, you would probably either sell it or let it sit for some time. That would defeat the purpose of having a dsm, you know, cheap horsepower.

And the center diff is neither clutch or vicious. Its just basically a 2 spider open diff. Split can be considered eithe 50/50 or variable, depending on if any wheel spin or which are spinning.

You suggestion on the full replacements are good but at the same time, kinda stupid. If you can afford to replace everything, you are either a die hard dsm'er or just have money to piss away. Chances are, if you just had money to piss away, you wouldnt have "the poor mans race car".

rear diff looks alright. some play, but i guess its somewhat normal on a 10year old car.

no idea on Tcase yet. I cant change fluid tonight, going to borrow moms jeep to take to work tomorrow, and then ill change Tcase fluid once i get home and actually have some ####ing free time. 40work hours a week + full college schedule = suckiness.

I am also going to look for signs of it leaking under the recall, if it is i am just going to go make chrysler replace it.

i got the car for a pretty cheap price [ 2700 ], and with new parts, brakes, and tires i think im around 4100ish[including buy price] so i don't think THAT bad so far. I am definatly considering selling it once it runs good, and then looking for a DSM not in any state that recieves snow.

I saw pictures of the bottom of a CA 96gsx and wow...it looked mint. Its above and beyond a night and difference from the underbody of my ####ed NY car.

 

[MyBeatGSX]

After everything is "REPLACED", he could have bought a new car for the same amount. Have you priced a transfer case, rear diff, and wheel bearings for your car lately? If it needed them all, you would probably either sell it or let it sit for some time. That would defeat the purpose of having a dsm, you know, cheap horsepower.

And the center diff is neither clutch or vicious. Its just basically a 2 spider open diff. Split can be considered eithe 50/50 or variable, depending on if any wheel spin or which are spinning.

You suggestion on the full replacements are good but at the same time, kinda stupid. If you can afford to replace everything, you are either a die hard dsm'er or just have money to piss away. Chances are, if you just had money to piss away, you wouldnt have "the poor mans race car".

Yea but maybe I don't mind pissing away my large supply of money on the poor man's race car instead of a rich man car because I'm a die hard DSMer.

I meant replace all the FLUIDS not the actual parts. I should have said it more clearly.

 

[Gleason]

I'd just like to give an update for future reference if anyone else has a problem similar to mine.

I changed my Tcase gear oil, and snapped these two pictures.

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Transfer case drainbolt/plug ^^^^^^^^ doesn't seem to be any metal on it

After i changed it [ didnt seem like all that much came out, maybe like .2 quarts or so ] ..the car still felt the same, 'jerking' from front to back.

I got the wheel bearing fixed the next day, and it now drives VERY well . Must have 'siezed' or something causing the front and back to 'fight'!?! maybe ?

Hopefully going next week to get my transfer case checked out for the leak recall. Supposedly done before, but thats what they said about my balljoint, and a few weeks ago my front passenger wheel fell off because of it. yay for chrysler footing the bill without fighting/trying to deny me.