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im about to lose my mind!!! HELP PLEASE!!!

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cics95talon

10+ Year Contributor
69
0
Dec 27, 2010
casa grande, Arizona
OK my talon does not have any overheating problems whatsoever and never has and still doesn't but my manifold and turbo glow red when i drive the car for about 10 miles. its not the waste-gate cause im running a wide open waste-gate at all times. so what could be cause them to be getting so damn hot? i also have brand new oem plugs and wires on it and its getting plenty of fuel and oil and coolant are flowing just fine... so what could it be. the new plugs were kinda white after i ran them for about ten miles so what does this mean??? what the hell is going wrong with my car cause im about to junk the bastard if it keeps giving me shit!!! someone please help me before i lose my damn mind!!!!:cry::banghead:
 
the guy that i got this car from said he put a walbro 255 in the car and i think he did but he told me a lot of things about the car that were bull****. so maybe that's why im not hitting fuel cut cause he did put it in. but he did put Brian crower 272/272 cams in it and arp pistons and rings so maybe all this has to do with it. idk but ill see what happens when i get the new actuator in and do the comp test...
 
i checked the timing with my actroncp7529 and its dead on. ive also checked plugs and the intire cooling system and ive checked my fuel pressure and its at 41.4psi through each injector. so i must be getting enough fuel. what tool do i need to do a compression test? and what else should i check cause i diagnosed the car and its not throughing any codes or anything so now what?

Im so angry Blinky beat me to saying it.. "how are you a mechanic for 4 years and NOT know how to do a compression test.."

you contradict yourself alot; dontcha buddy.. EVERYONE on here has given you plenty of USEFUL information to help you figure out whats wrong with your car.. WHY DON'T YOU; Go out and buy a wideband and save yourself alot of headaches and stop boostin 20psi without supporting mods..

thebut he did put Brian crower 272/272 cams in it and arp pistons and rings so maybe all this has to do with it. idk but ill see what happens when i get the new actuator in and do the comp test...

First Bro; you told us in earlier posts; THERE WAS NOTHING DONE TO THE BLOCK .. only the 272/272 cams in the head... And secondly; WTH are "ARP PISTONS AND RINGS"? please answer me that.. Do you mean "ARP HEAD STUDS (and/or) MAIN STUDS" ? because (correct me if im wrong everyone) "ARP PISTONS AND RINGS" do not exist.
 
Stop boosting 20 psi until you figure out why you aren't hitting fuel cut from it. Maybe a 2g is different with fuel cut, but on a 1g some people hit fuel cut with a 16g, intake, and exhaust at stock boost. Secondly a fuel pump is not going to prevent fuel cut. The ECU has no way of knowing you change anything in the fuel system. It's blind, it can't sense that. I'd still like to know how you are making any boost if you don't have a wastegate actuator off the car and the wastegate is just flapping open in the breeze.
 
Do you mean "ARP HEAD STUDS (and/or) MAIN STUDS" ? because (correct me if im wrong everyone) "ARP PISTONS AND RINGS" do not exist.

I brought that up back on the first page, post #10

I just looked at your profile and it says you've got a 16g along with that 3" exhaust. That sounds like a recipe for boost creep so back to my question, do you have a boost gauge and if so what boost are you running?

Never heard of ARP pistons, are you referring to ARP head studs? Lol!
 
you're definitely running lean like a hot pocket. A few possible causes might be:
Incorrectly Gapped spark plugs (or maybe you could try running colder heat range spark plugs)
Intake/Exhaust Leak (too much oxygen in the exhaust stream = everything is hotter, check your gaskets)
Bad O2 Sensor (will send a defective reading to the ECU which will cause incorrect timing)
Over-advanced ignition timing (Increases pressure in the cylinder, which leads to an increase in exhaust temps. one member stated it might be retarded timing which is the complete opposite-your knock sensor retards timing when it detects detonation)
 
like i said guys when i bought this car the guy told me a bunch of crap about this car so i don't even no what to think it has.. so what do i do then just junk the dang thing and get a new one or keep listening to you guys make me look stupid. forget everything i said and this stupid post that's turned into nothing but arguing and get back to my main question about my hot *** manifold.. so OK you guys gave me a lot of useful things to get so now point me in the direction of a nice wide band PLEASE!!!! i drive my car everyday so i no what its doing and what Ive said about the boost is actually happening but that's not what my ? has to do with>>>>>> wide band sight post please and what does a wide band do and what is a wide band and how in the **** is it going to help my blood red hot manifold stop glowing red and being normally hot again like it was before my actuator gave out?????????
 
Like stated before "I'm a 4 year mechanic and I know all this stuff...... that has nothing to do with cars" Any real mechanic has access to a compression tester and the knowledge on how to use it. They also can look at spark plugs and be able to tell how the engine's running in comparison to the color/visual of the electrode. A jiffy lube oil change "mechanic" is not a mechanic.

I think your injectors are fine, so don't throw money into injectors. Get a wideband to at least monitor your AFR's before even thinking of boosting. And figure out what internals you have because ARP makes engine hardware, NOT pistons and rings.

like i said guys when i bought this car the guy told me a bunch of crap about this car so i don't even no what to think it has.. so what do i do then just junk the dang thing and get a new one or keep listening to you guys make me look stupid. forget everything i said and this stupid post that's turned into nothing but arguing and get back to my main question about my hot *** manifold.. so OK you guys gave me a lot of useful things to get so now point me in the direction of a nice wide band PLEASE!!!! i drive my car everyday so i no what its doing and what Ive said about the boost is actually happening but that's not what my ? has to do with>>>>>> wide band sight post please and what does a wide band do and what is a wide band and how in the **** is it going to help my blood red hot manifold stop glowing red and being normally hot again like it was before my actuator gave out?????????

You have got to me kidding. :nono: Why don't you do some research instead of saying "do this for me and this for me" If you don't know what a wideband is/does you defintely shouldn't be working on cars. Dsm's especially. Also, just because you drive your car everyday does not mean that you know what your car is doing. Gauges and logging is how you know what your car is doing, you have neither.
 
tylere18 if your not going to help me then go away. look at my last post just direct me to where i can buy one.

never mind i found one.
 
like i said guys when i bought this car the guy told me a bunch of crap about this car so i don't even no what to think it has.. so what do i do then just junk the dang thing and get a new one or keep listening to you guys make me look stupid. forget everything i said and this stupid post that's turned into nothing but arguing and get back to my main question about my hot *** manifold.. so OK you guys gave me a lot of useful things to get so now point me in the direction of a nice wide band PLEASE!!!! i drive my car everyday so i no what its doing and what Ive said about the boost is actually happening but that's not what my ? has to do with>>>>>> wide band sight post please and what does a wide band do and what is a wide band and how in the **** is it going to help my blood red hot manifold stop glowing red and being normally hot again like it was before my actuator gave out?????????

All the wideband will do is tell you what your air fuel ratio (AFR) is. It will not fix anything by itself. However, besides a boost gauge, it is the best aftermarket gauge to have on a turbo/high performance vehicle.

A wideband uses a o2 sensor installed in the downpipe to monitor the AFR. This is displayed on the gauge and you can tell with just a glance if you are running stoich (the amount of air needed to completely burn the fuel, 14.7 for gasoline), rich (less then 14.7:1, more fuel/less air), or lean (higher then 14.7:1, more air/less fuel). Very helpful to keep your engine alive.

The standard price these days is $199 shipped for the AEM UEGO (which is a great, affordable wideband) which is a great price and has come down from what it used to be. Here are 2 great supporting vendors who carry it:

Punishment Racing your parts source for the Mitsubishi Evo & Eclipse, Eagle Talon and Laser
AEM Gauge-Type Wideband UEGO Controller - Modern Automotive Performance
 
THANK YOU VERY MUCH 9!'eclipseDOHC. thats the answer i was looking for. where can i give your profile a positive feedback at?
 
Bro, A wideband WILL HELP US determine WHY YOUR MANIFOLD IS RED!

You keep saying thats irrelivant to your manifold but i has all to do with it!

it will let us know if your running rich/lean..

If your running lean, Then we go from there.. if your fine. we can figure it out from there.

just chill. your dsm will be fine. i promise buddy.
 
Not sure if this has been touched on yet but the white burn marks on your plugs would indicate that you're running lean for some reason...either air is getting in somewhere or you're not running enough fuel. you might also want to make sure that you've got the exhaust cam timed correctly...especially if you're running two different profiles of cam where the exhaust has a longer duration...it's possible that your valves are staying open during the firing sequence...honestly...if any part of my engine starts glowing red hot I would be limping it to the nearest shop to have it checked out...or hooking it up to my laptop to check for A/F mixture problems, timing errors, or knocks...dont take speculation as a solution...you could end up throwing thousands of dollars in parts at the problem just to find out you've stretched a stud which woulda cost you 7 bucks to fix.
 
I would suggest until u read through the dsm mod path u should not touch your boost controller. not knowing what a wideband is or does is a serious problem when it comes to modding your turbo charged dd. also at your level of knowledge to these cars you should find a back up car if your gonna mod it. Not bashing at all cause im farly new to the dsm game myself and im on my second motor cause i thought i knew it all. mistakes cost money we all learn from em after the fact. Iv'e spent countless hours on dsmtuners filling my cup. save your motor and do the same.
 
First off, you're basically an oil change tech at best. As a mechanic i take offense to you calling yourself one when the following are happening-

You would rather throw money and hope you fix something than find the root problem
You dont know what a compression test or tester is or how to do one
You dont know what a wideband is but you've had turbo cars in the past? This tells me you buy your cars and dont know how to build them properly.

Oh, and personally i love this post-
ok look. i now how my car is supposed to run. i now all about fuel and compression and air fuel mixtures and boost and ecu and blah blah blah. the only time a turbo and manifold should glow is when the car is overheating and my car is not overheating so whats wrong with my car? and i no for fact its not fuel and its not cooling system and its not blockage in my system!!!
Because that statement is obviously incorrect. A manifold will run red without overheating if you get on the car hard or the timing is off or its running lean (fuel issue).... funny how things go back to those couple issues huh?

First thing you need to do is check the timing with a proper timing light and make sure all of your timing marks are lined up properly, setting the base timing will only help your car run better even if its not the issue. (report back what you find!!)

Have you done a boost leak test yet (if not, do one)? Have you pulled your plugs to read them yet? You should've changed them out for the correct plug by now anyways (the plug you listed is incorrect). What size are your injectors currently? Have you checked to see if they really are stock or otherwise (color and any numbers from them would help ID them)? When you say wide open wastegate, how did you accomplish this? Is the actuator completely removed with the flapper just hanging there or did you hook the wastegate hose to a straight boost reference? What makes you think your wastegate actuator is bad?

Answer and do all the things i have listed and let me know what you find... In the end, we're just trying to help you out, i may seem like a jerk now but if you just do what ive asked and answer me as completely as possible im sure we can help you figure out the issue(s).
 
OK heres my update. my check engine light came on so i diagnosed it and it said my crankshaft positioning sensor is going out... so can this be causing everything to happen like it is?
 
All I can Say is WOW this guy is a douche. Do what everyone has told you. The car is obviously running lean, my 8 yr old son knows more about dsms than this guy. I also cant believe eveyone is still trying to help him i just read through 3 pages of people all telling you to do the same thing. But he still continues to jump to different things that could possibly be wrong. If you dont know what YOUR DOING take it to a dsm shop or tuner shop that does know what they are DOING or sell it and buy a civic
 
OK heres my update. my check engine light came on so i diagnosed it and it said my crankshaft positioning sensor is going out... so can this be causing everything to happen like it is?

NO!!!! it is what everyone has been yelling at you. your running lean. you cant just imagine your not because its not a small problem and it will just go away sometime
 
get a new sensor but you still need to do everything else. best bet is to just take it to a shop. Most of them will do a FREE diagnostic and try to tell you what the hell is wrong with your car. thats how they get your business.
 
NO!!!! it is what everyone has been yelling at you. your running lean. you cant just imagine your not because its not a small problem and it will just go away sometime

I think what he was meaning to ask was could his bad crank sensor cause a timing issue therefore leading to a lean condition

But honestly guys, come on this is ridiculous it almost makes me ashamed to be on this site. YES AT THE BEGINING HE WAS BEING A DICK AND NOT LISTENING, but look as his situation I PROMISE everyone has been in his shoes pounding their head assuming everything else is ok without checking. He said some dumb things GET THE F*CK OVER IT! He is listening now. Either give him help or shut the f*ck up period.

OP Listen to their advice, after reading the whole thread id agree with thinking you're running lean. I also agree with you needing a wideband, i didnt know what a wideband was at one time too, but dont say you know eveything to impress us. This site is for helping people learn about their dsms. It would have helped if you were honest from the get go, but as long as you are now there is no reason while we cant all put our heads together and figure this out

So lets clear everything up, what tests have you done and what exactly are the results you got?:hmm:
 
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