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im about to lose my mind!!! HELP PLEASE!!!

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cics95talon

10+ Year Contributor
69
0
Dec 27, 2010
casa grande, Arizona
OK my talon does not have any overheating problems whatsoever and never has and still doesn't but my manifold and turbo glow red when i drive the car for about 10 miles. its not the waste-gate cause im running a wide open waste-gate at all times. so what could be cause them to be getting so damn hot? i also have brand new oem plugs and wires on it and its getting plenty of fuel and oil and coolant are flowing just fine... so what could it be. the new plugs were kinda white after i ran them for about ten miles so what does this mean??? what the hell is going wrong with my car cause im about to junk the bastard if it keeps giving me shit!!! someone please help me before i lose my damn mind!!!!:cry::banghead:
 
It is like he is waiting for an answer he WANTS to hear. Like: "thats 100% normal; why don't you turn the boost up to 25psi on that stock fuel system"

OP: you have not answered any of the questions. I am assuming that this is 10 minutes of hard driving since you said it:
"runs like a bat out of hell!!!"

A glowing manifold/turbine is normal under peroids of hard driving. However, in your case it does sound like it is running lean. You should think about turning the boost back down until you can upgrade the fuel system and get a logger/tuner/wideband.. like suggested.

I agree 100% Weve got another "knowitall" who wants clarification that what hes doing is correct. Everything hes said thus far has contradicted itself.

Wrong! OP you need to listen to the advice these guys are giving you. How long have you ran the car like this(at 20psi on the stock fuel system)?? Id be suprised if you havent messed anything up already.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OP- verify that ignition timing is set correctly. Retarded/low ignition timing will put more combustion heat into the exhaust manifold and turbo and less into the cooling system. This could cause your manifold to run hot enough to glow.

Also, make sure you don't have an exhaust restriction like a plugged or damaged catalytic converter.
 
where can i get some new fuel injectors and the fuel management system and fuel pump at for cheap cause im not made of money but i need my car.?
 
If you cant afford to buy what you need to support your 16g than why dont you go back to stock untill u can afford it...your looking at over a grand for the products you need and than you need a compitant tuner that "knows" what they are doing to tune your car.
 
I'd like to know how you're not hitting fuel cut at 20 psi on a 16g. A proper mods list in the profile can be a big help.
 
well everybody keeps saying i sounds like im running lean. i turned my boost down to 8psi and thats the lowest i can go... and ran it SOFTLY for 5 miles and the turbo wasnt glowing this time but the manifold was. i am running a wide open wastegate right now and so it doesent even go into boost at all untill 4500rpms. the reason im running a wide open wastegate is because im waiting for my new actuator to get here.
 
The 3" exhaust. is it muffler only? cat back? turbo back?

As for you going into boost at 45k. Why are you revving that high if you know you don't have a waste gate actuator? And how are you getting boost? Do you have a 14b turbine housing on the turbo? or smaller?

It sounds like (IF you had the rest of the mods) Boost creep. But before you wander that way, look into wideband and a cheap afc.
 
If your wastegate is open you shouldn't be making any where near 8 pound of boost. The only thing that should be happening is the turbo spinning just enough to help air move into the engine a tiny bit. So at this point it's beyond me how you went from 20 psi to 8 psi by adjusting a boost controller with no wastegate actuator. It's even more beyond me how you made 20 psi with the wastegate completely open, much less 8.
 
i was making 20lbs of boost when i had my acuater on. but now im making 8 with it wide open wastegate. and ill kick most of your cars in the dirt so dont say some people dont deserve there cars. i worked my ass off for 3 years to get this car and ive been a mechanic for 4 years so i have plenty of experiance. ive just never seen anything like this happen in my life. im telling you how its is right now. and if you dont believe me come drive it but dont be calling me a lier. if you want to help me stop being smart asses and help me but if not then go away please. im banging my head against a wall trying to do process of elimination and i cant figure it out. just tell me a couple things i can get that will help my cars manifold stop getting so damn hot!!! i apoligize for getting so upset but im so tempted to just roll the car out of my garage and leave it. i will try getting a wideband and a new fuel pump and a ajustable fuel pressure regulator but if all this doesnt work then what should i do.? i appreciate you guys input so much so please dont judge me and think im stupid cause im not. i had a turboed 240sx and supercharged trucks so i get the boost concept so dont worry about my boost. just tell me what to do about the to hot manifold........
 
Your right ramsack, its kind of hard to turn the boost down using a boost controller with no wastegate attached! He's probably building 8psi with no wastegate attached because he can't control boost using the wastegate with that 16g, its probably creeping to 20psi.

You don't need all that crap to support your 16g and you'd just be spending money on modifications when really you should be checking things first. Check your base ignition timing using a timing light, your a mechanic so you should know how using this write-up... Ignition Timing Check

To support your 16g at the minimum you need the following:
- SAFC, chip, or ECMlink so you can compensate for the injector size
- Wideband o2 sensor
- Evo VIII injectors
- Evo VIII fuel pump
- Fuel pump rewire

:dsm:
 
where can i get some new fuel injectors and the fuel management system and fuel pump at for cheap cause im not made of money but i need my car.?

A fuel management system? You wont even listen and half ass attempt to diagnose your car and your asking a question like that? Tell you what, buy yourself a nice aem ems ok and enjoy trying to tune. OR, better yet sell the car for its sake and use the money to get yourself a nice geo or a mustang or something. I mean come on man these guys have told you ten different things to check and have you even bothered checking even just one?
 
i checked the timing with my actroncp7529 and its dead on. ive also checked plugs and the intire cooling system and ive checked my fuel pressure and its at 41.4psi through each injector. so i must be getting enough fuel. what tool do i need to do a compression test? and what else should i check cause i diagnosed the car and its not throughing any codes or anything so now what?
 
Fuel pressure should be 43.5 psi, so there's a little bit of leanness. This is with the vacuum to the FPR unplugged, correct? A compression tester is just a gauge and a hose that threads into your spark plug holes, so all you need is the tools to remove and install spark plugs and a compression tester. They're really cheap, but low compression isn't going to pull timing or make your manifold glow red hot.
 
no i had the line still on the fuel pressure regulator

i have an inline high flow fuel filter so i plugged the gauge into there to test it. and yes i cut my old screw in fuel filter and ran my own fuel lines.
 
Im suprised you guys are still helping this guy, saying he can beat all your cars with 8psi now. i say let him blow his engine and let his 4 years of "training" rebuild his motor. Hey Op the people on here have alot of knowledge about DSM'S! so maybe you would want to open your mind that maybe you can learn something. if 5-6 people are telling you that your injectors are too small (and they are) maybe they just might be. Also dont tell people you can beat there car if you have to shut urs off after 10 mins cause your going to melt shit. p.s maybe you should supercharge your car that might be better (jokes)
 
ive ran 20 psi on stock 450's and man did it fly.... no fuel cut..... not to mention it never glowed red.... so its pretty comfusing... now you said youve been a mechanic for 4 years right? then how in the name of cheetos dont you know how and what to use to give a compression test to your car... something is wrong here...

I DID MANAGE TO MAKE 8PSI WITH MY ACTUATOR ARM OFF...
 
blinky619 thanks for understanding where im coming from. i just never leaned how to do a compression test. i do oil changes and tire changes and basic repairs all day no in dept engine work. and i have been listening to everyone cause i asked where i can get some good injectors for cheap.... look everyone thank you all so much for your help and i will try everything that has been said that i haven't tried already. it might take me awhile to get all the parts though but thanks.
 
blinky619 thanks for understanding where im coming from. i just never leaned how to do a compression test. i do oil changes and tire changes and basic repairs all day no in dept engine work. and i have been listening to everyone cause i asked where i can get some good injectors for cheap.... look everyone thank you all so much for your help and i will try everything that has been said that i haven't tried already. it might take me awhile to get all the parts though but thanks.

its pretty easy go to napa and ask for one and ill explain how to do it.
step 1 remove all the spark plugs
step 2 screw the tester in
step 3 turn the motor over
step 4 wright down the number


your not listening to everyone, everyone has been telling you to go check something on ## car and you just keep saying that its fine. we never said you need bigger injectors someone just said that might be the reason. it doesnt mean that it IS so if you dont have much money dont go buy cheap injectors (you get what you pay for) and if your really broke u will figure out how to fix the problem by doing what people have been telling you
 
check the ceramic around the electrodes on the spark plugs is should be coffee colored. keep the plugs in cylinder order if one is more white then the others try switching injectors around to see if the lean combustion follows. what grade fuel are u using. cause the higher octane the cooler it burns.
 
thanks alexbland. i will do the test tomorrow when i can get to my shop. i have tryied doing what everyone has told me to do and most things check out. im thinking its injectors though because they were at 41.4psi.

i used high test 91 octane fuel
 
thanks alexbland. i will do the test tomorrow when i can get to my shop. i have tryied doing what everyone has told me to do and most things check out. im thinking its injectors though because they were at 41.4psi.

i used high test 91 octane fuel

remember to let the motor turn over like 3-4 times for each test, ull smell gas its normal
 
With the car idling and the hose to the FPR unplugged it should be 43.5 psi. It seems way high if that was the pressure with the hose plugged in and the car idling. Wrong fuel pressure will not be injectors. The FPR is supposed to keep a constant fuel pressure no matter what the injectors are doing. It is still way beyond me how you're not hitting fuel cut at 20 psi.
 
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