If lines on crank pulley dont come into "the zone" when adjusting CAS then what?

[95EclipseGST]

I thought i had my car timed right but there were lighter white marks that i got confused with.So im adjusting my CAS to get the timing right after marking heavily the slots on crank pulley and it doesnt even come close to the marks coming up to the BTDC zone on the timing cover marks.So i have heard of flipping the CAS but are they meaning flipping it to the right position.I mean is there only one right position of the CAS or can it be flipped with no bad effects. Then im thinking was there an exact way the crank pulley was supposed to go on? I mean, i lined it up with the 4 bolt holes and put it on.If i took off crank pulley and rotated it...Would i get my timing marks in the zone? Im trying to understand this engine better and dont even have a clue how the car seems to have been running enough to drive ,if my timing is this far off. Would this have anything to do with me not being able to get any boost until very high rpms? Please help, This 6bolt swap is killing me and im very close to taking it to satan if i cant get it right this time around.PUllease help! "update" When i put the timing light on spark plug wire #2 and #3 i can see the white lines are at least visible.So i flip the CAS and the white lines didnt get any closer to even where i could see them.The only way i can see the white marks on the top side is when i hook the timing light to 2 and 3.What does this mean? I could swear that the timing as far as the belt and hydraulic tension is perfect.I even checked it after i ran the car and the dowel pins are at 12 o'clock with everything else in place. How in the hell would the car run without backfiring or anything if my timing is this far off.Were there marks when i was putting on the crank pulley to align?Like i say i just lined it up with the 4 bolts.F*ck Im going crazy and my summer is gone on this 6 bolt.Help Just went and did a compression test and its 180 compression across the board.Also the CAS does adjust timing cause you can hear the engine responding so i dont think its a bad CAS. Anyone???

 

[ADrewzki]

I tested my CAS for my 2g swap by doing the following. Take the CAS off the intake cam and leave the positive and ground hooked up to it. Put the key in and turn it to "on". DON'T start the engine. Then just use a voltmeter to measure the voltage coming off the crank and cam wires. Everytime it's supposed to spark you'll hear the injectors hum and the voltage will go to ~5Vdc. That's just another thing to rule out. When you timed it, did you ground the plug on the firewall near the battery. Chiltons (and various other threads) say to do so. Also, I've read that you can rotate the engine by hand so that cyl 1 is at TDC. That should correspond to 0 degress BTDC (before top dead center). You can make a small notch/mark/whatever there and try to time it that way. If it's running, it seems that your timing is ok within reason. Good luck.

 

[95EclipseGST]

Thank you so much for that info.A few more questions.One being that i bought this engine fully built already and it had 1200 miles on it. Its a 1g engine but i used my 2g crank pulley. I am getting ready to go look and see if maybe the marks are in a different place on the 1g.I was also looking at the 1g crank pulley and it seems the guy before me had marked it in a different spot than where the little marks are on on the crank pulley.Why would this happen? After building an engine/changing compression etc ...Would that cause the engine to run different as to where the timing mark should be on the crank pulley.And if i have the engine a TDC then mark right exactly on the crank pulley right where the timing cover says O BTDC .Is this right? Im going to see what i can find out right now. I looked at timing marks again and they are aligned.Anyone ever heard of this before? Remarking crank pulley at TDC? Thanks for your help, Travis

 

[ADrewzki]

Yeah, I did it just today. I've done the swap to a 1g block as well using the 2g pulley and I can feel my timing change while I'm driving. I think it may be due to knock but since I don't have my datalogger yet, who's to say for sure? Anyway, as I was saying, I went out there with a little bottle of white-out and put a little mark on the pulley when cyl 1 was at TDC. The little mark should line up with 0BTDC like I said before. It seemed to work fine for me this morning. Just remember to ground that plug on the firewall. Good luck.

 

[ADrewzki]

Thank you so much for that info.A few more questions.One being that i bought this engine fully built already and it had 1200 miles on it. Its a 1g engine but i used my 2g crank pulley. I am getting ready to go look and see if maybe the marks are in a different place on the 1g.I was also looking at the 1g crank pulley and it seems the guy before me had marked it in a different spot than where the little marks are on on the crank pulley.Why would this happen? After building an engine/changing compression etc ...Would that cause the engine to run different as to where the timing mark should be on the crank pulley.And if i have the engine a TDC then mark right exactly on the crank pulley right where the timing cover says O BTDC .Is this right? Im going to see what i can find out right now. I looked at timing marks again and they are aligned.Anyone ever heard of this before? Remarking crank pulley at TDC? Thanks for your help, Travis

Are the marks made by the guy 90 degrees off? Something like that would make sense because you can always mount the pulley off. I'm pretty sure that setting the timing should be the same as a 1g since we both do it using the CAS. Weird. Sorry I can't help you more.

 

[95EclipseGST]

I put the engine at tdc with dowel pins on the cams at 12 o'clock. Okay...If i have the engine in that position then i should be able to look and see that the tick marks on the crankpulley align with the " T " on the timing belt cover. Am i right in saying that? Okay so that wasnt the case...My tick marks were about 90 degrees off for some reason. " someone please help me to know why" SO , with the engine at TDC i marked the crankpulley at the "T" which would be the correct timing mark to go by. Well after marking it,I put the timing light to it and adjusted CAS and made sure it was aligned correct. Car was sounding a lot better and i adjusted TPS to correct volts.Everything going good.So i do a leak test at the turbo inlet and air was coming out of the BISS. So i adjusted idle and tried to seal it with RTV for a temp fix.Well i have another bigger leak that i couldnt tell where it was coming from.But it seemed to be right at the throttle body but not on top. My engine was at TDC when i did the leak test. So i have some sort of leak around the throttle body but buttoned back up the car and everything to be done with it for the night.Car was driveable but no good boost until 4500 rpm.Anyway go for a drive and something major was going on with my clutch pedal acting up intermittently. See this thread.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135934 Well "F" that other thread...Can you please tell me if it seems i did things right with this timing issue and why i had to mark the crankpulley at a different spot about 90 degrees off? Did i do right by having lined the engine at TDC and marked the crankpulley where the T on the timing belt cover is? I know this thread is long but i really need some inputs and some things straight about how things went down with marking this and all. I have a bigger issue now in the thread above that seems to top this one. Thanks for your time.I appreciate it, Travis

 

[ADrewzki]

I put the engine at tdc with dowel pins on the cams at 12 o'clock. Okay...If i have the engine in that position then i should be able to look and see that the tick marks on the crankpulley align with the " T " on the timing belt cover. Am i right in saying that? Okay so that wasnt the case...My tick marks were about 90 degrees off for some reason. " someone please help me to know why" SO , with the engine at TDC i marked the crankpulley at the "T" which would be the correct timing mark to go by. Well after marking it,I put the timing light to it and adjusted CAS and made sure it was aligned correct. Car was sounding a lot better and i adjusted TPS to correct volts.Everything going good.So i do a leak test at the turbo inlet and air was coming out of the BISS. So i adjusted idle and tried to seal it with RTV for a temp fix.Well i have another bigger leak that i couldnt tell where it was coming from.But it seemed to be right at the throttle body but not on top. My engine was at TDC when i did the leak test. So i have some sort of leak around the throttle body but buttoned back up the car and everything to be done with it for the night.Car was driveable but no good boost until 4500 rpm.Anyway go for a drive and something major was going on with my clutch pedal acting up intermittently. See this thread.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135934 Well "F" that other thread...Can you please tell me if it seems i did things right with this timing issue and why i had to mark the crankpulley at a different spot about 90 degrees off? Did i do right by having lined the engine at TDC and marked the crankpulley where the T on the timing belt cover is? I know this thread is long but i really need some inputs and some things straight about how things went down with marking this and all. I have a bigger issue now in the thread above that seems to top this one. Thanks for your time.I appreciate it, Travis

Basically your crank pulley is off by 90 degrees because it takes four bolts to put it on. Unlike the crank sprocket, the pulley isn't keyed so it can go on 90 degrees out either way or even 180 degrees out. Does that make sense? If you want the original marks to line up, you'll have to take the belts off, take off the pulley, and then put the pulley back on only turned 90 degrees. Just gotta fix your boost leak now. I'm surprised it idled well enough for you to time it.

 

[My96AWD]

did you swap your plug wires? you need to for the 1g in a 2g for a 95. i went throught the same thing when i did mine. also you dont have to do this but swaping your injector wires on your ecu.

 

[My96AWD]

Basically your crank pulley is off by 90 degrees because it takes four bolts to put it on. Unlike the crank sprocket, the pulley isn't keyed so it can go on 90 degrees out either way or even 180 degrees out. Does that make sense? If you want the original marks to line up, you'll have to take the belts off, take off the pulley, and then put the pulley back on only turned 90 degrees. Just gotta fix your boost leak now. I'm surprised it idled well enough for you to time it.

it is keyed and you can only put it on one way unless the alignment dowel is missing.

 

[95EclipseGST]

The crank pulley IS keyed and only goes on one way.Its the crank pulley off my 2g and its on this 1g engine.I dont think that makes a difference though i thought i would mention it. i swapped injector wires at the ecu and swapped the plug wires also.Checked and rechecked to make sure its the right way.

 

[ADrewzki]

The crank pulley IS keyed and only goes on one way.Its the crank pulley off my 2g and its on this 1g engine.I dont think that makes a difference though i thought i would mention it. i swapped injector wires at the ecu and swapped the plug wires also.Checked and rechecked to make sure its the right way.

The crank sprocket that holds the timing belt is keyed (and the balance shaft sprocket behind that). The pulley that sits on top of the sprocket is not keyed. Rather, it is held on by 4 bolts.

 

[95EclipseGST]

The crankpulley itself has 4 holes PLUS and extra little hole where a tiny dowel lines up.I can post a pic if you like.It only goes on in one position.

 

[ADrewzki]

The crankpulley itself has 4 holes PLUS and extra little hole where a tiny dowel lines up.I can post a pic if you like.It only goes on in one position.

Yeah, please do. I'll see if I can post mine as well because mine goes on any which way I choose. I'd like to see yours.

 

[95EclipseGST]

See the extra hole in between the 4 bolt holes? It only goes on that one way with the pin in it.On my 2g and 1g crankpulley.Also , That silver mark on there at the 2 o'clock position is not where the original timing mark is.I dont know why the guy before me had to do that either.What would cause this timing point to change on the crank pulley? What i did was got the engine at TDC and put a mark on the crankpulley at the "T" mark on the timing belt cover or the Zero position. So is this right? If you guys put your engine at TDC #1 cylinder with dowel pins on both camshafts at 12 o'clock position...Your factory tick mark on the crankpulley should be lined up with ZERO or the " T " on the timing belt cover.Does anyone know if this is a correct statment? Thanks for the inputs.i still cant figure out why i had to change the markings.Its a built 6bolt with 1g big rods/balanceshafts removed etc.i dont know if any of this would be a factor...Let me know what you guys think and about if your marks on the crankpulley line up when at TDC.Thanks

 

[Mike000]

See the extra hole in between the 4 bolt holes? It only goes on that one way with the pin in it.On my 2g and 1g crankpulley.Also , That silver mark on there at the 2 o'clock position is not where the original timing mark is.I dont know why the guy before me had to do that either.What would cause this timing point to change on the crank pulley? What i did was got the engine at TDC and put a mark on the crankpulley at the "T" mark on the timing belt cover or the Zero position. So is this right? If you guys put your engine at TDC #1 cylinder with dowel pins on both camshafts at 12 o'clock position...Your factory tick mark on the crankpulley should be lined up with ZERO or the " T " on the timing belt cover.Does anyone know if this is a correct statment? Thanks for the inputs.i still cant figure out why i had to change the markings.Its a built 6bolt with 1g big rods/balanceshafts removed etc.i dont know if any of this would be a factor...Let me know what you guys think and about if your marks on the crankpulley line up when at TDC.Thanks

Anyone got any input on this? I got the same problem...

 

[AWDPSI]

is it possible that the cas is 180 out. In other words there is like a little line on the end of the cas that goes into the head. Line up is 180degrees while line down is 180 degrees the other way. Look at vfaq to see which one is correct. Just make sure that is good.

Scott