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spaniel

Probationary Member
29
0
Dec 1, 2004
Dav, Iowa
I havnet made any mods to my 1995 Talon TSI. One of the first things i would like to do is to get a full exhaust system. Please help me out on this if you can. I do not want to spend a ton of money. I also do not want just a cat-back. I want the full thing. Here are the 2 things i think (if im right) is need for a full exhaust:

http://www.importboost.com/inc/pdetail?v=1&pid=1089 That is the downpipe

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33630&item=7938463517&rd=1 That is the Cat-back


I talked to someone and found out that that downpipe that i listed eliminates the catconverter. Would those be the only 2 pieces i need for a full exhaust system?
 
pull your intake pipe and look inside it, you will see it in there unless the previous owner took it out.. its huge and obvious, it starts where the blowoff valve inlet is. cut it down as close to the main tube as you can.. its the only thing in the intake pipe and it should be removed. took me 10 minutes with a dremel, file and big scissors to take my friends out, i went straight to a hardpipe on my car so i didnt do it to my own. it will make your bov louder
 
spaniel said:
Ic how it works now. Should i replace the fuel system at all?

Yes, but since you are only at the start of modding, the most you will want to do is upgrade your fuel pump to atleast a 190lph; or just re-wire the stocker..later on you'll probably want to upgrade injectors and you will then need a tuning device to control the extra fuel...for right now, this is all you need to start raising that 1/4 mile ET on a cheap budget:
-filter
-2.5" or 3" turbo-back
-boost guage
-MBC
-new UICP (from smic to TB)
-1G BOV
-190lph fuel pump
-porting on manifold and 02
That is a good start & will run you just over $1K if you get the right prices
- if you want to know what else you will need later on that or what you'll need for a bigger setup, just ask and I or the other people here will gladly help you out
 
Well as of right now my car is totally stock and has nothing done to it. If i start messing with the boost and start to raise it cant i crack the turbo?
 
fuel pump is not necessary until you upgrade your turbo- by that time you should be more familiar with the cars so dont worry about it now. i would suggest doing the rewire once you have a few more mods just to be safe and because its cheap, but at 18psi on the mods i listed earlier i was still running rich at wot on just a rewired stock pump. uicp and bov should be the first mods you do, before the mbc, before the boost gauge.. that peice of shit stock bov leaks like hell and will kill your turbo with ease if you arent very careful. 15 psi through the stock bov and uicp is about 18 or 19 pounds with a solid bov, and t25's die real quick if they are spun at those speeds. not to mention the turbo is much less efficient when its fighting the "safety" of the stock bov. you need one eventually anyway, and it can save your turbo, especially for a noob, so a bov should be a high priority, fuel pump shouldnt be of any concern to you now
 
Two things, have you checked out Vfaq is has an upgrade path and a bunch of good tech articles. Also the site that you are on now has a good upgrade path to look over. With the BOV make sure you can reculate.
 
THe only thing im affraid of is raising the PSI and having my turbo crack is all. I mean its a 1995 and it has 93,000 miles on it which i guess isnt like amazingly bad but its still a bit.
 
I would look into the greddy type-S; its proven, reliable and very popular with DSMers...to re-circulate the HKS bov you were looking at you will need the extra recirculation tube which doesn't come with BOV...Go look into Upper intercooler piping kits and then if you decide to go with the Type-S then look around the web for the best prices (Ebay has them for $150)
 
i agree, get a type s. you will never outgrow it, it is beyond proven for our cars, it recirculates withough having to buy a kit.. its the best bov for a dsm imo. a 1st gen bov is common too because they are cheap, but they can leak at higher pressures unless you crush them, which can cause problems, or mod them.. which brings the cost close to a type s anyway. the greddy is adjustable so you can push 25lbs through it and it wont open if you dont want it to
 
I figured I would check this thread to see how it progressed and all I have to say is

Holy Off-Topic Batman! OMG
 
Darksyne said:
I figured I would check this thread to see how it progressed and all I have to say is

Holy Off-Topic Batman! OMG

Hey! It is only off topic because his question was already answered and he had some new ones...Rather just answer all this guys questions at one time then make him have to make lots of new threads for little q's
 
kraka said:
Hey! It is only off topic because his question was already answered and he had some new ones...Rather just answer all this guys questions at one time then make him have to make lots of new threads for little q's

I wasn't complaining, I just read the last post and had to check the title a couple times
;)
 
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