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I need help please!

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CarTrader29

15+ Year Contributor
228
1
Nov 19, 2004
Brooklyn, New York
A friend checked my DSM that I just got. Everything seems ok with the motor. The only major problem that worries me is he just did the emmission removal mod my car and it seems to stall or want to stall compared to before when it was fine. I drive and stop at traffic or the light, the car starts missing slightly and feel like it wants to die. My friend got the info from this site http://www.taboospeedshop.com/emissions.htm he used the race setup so the fuel pressure solenoid and the evaporative purge solenoid arent on the car anymore. The charcoal canister is also not plug in. When I'm cruising its fine. Sometimes when I stop it feels like its going to stall or does stall. I dont understand why when all of that was removed the car wants to stall? I also put new spark plug wires, valve cover gasket, cleaned the TB, and put timing back to spec. Car idles great now but I still have the long cracking start problem. The car also still stalls. Is there a way to put those emissions stuff back on?? Can I just buy the hose at any auto store? I want to try using new hoses and replace the old ones and see if thats the problem but does the emissions removal acutally work on all 1G? If this shit dont work I'm going to put the emissions crap back on. Cuz I have a feeling thats why it keeps stalling cuz that shit wasnt doing that before untill the emissions stuff was taken out. Also could the car possibly be stalling cuz I dont have EGR block off plate yet? Does that have anything to do with this? Please help me out before I end up taking this to a shop and getting raped... :cry:
 
yes that could be it block the egr valve off and make sure u have all the vacum lines pluged up and they are not leaking
 
well those vacuum lines arent plugged up there all hosed up he did a U shape connection on them. What can I use to block the EGR? How does the EGR effect the car and make it stall.

BTW, the ISC was tested and is good...
 
well when the car is in drive the egr opens up to let ecuast gases recirculate into the engine to help with emissions especially Nox so when u took it off and not blocked it off its letting air get into the engine to make it stall
 
Finally fixed it! It was cuz the EGR wasnt blocked off I guess cuz once I did that it stopped stalling. Well, It actaully stalled again when I got home but that was cuz the #1 Spark plug wire popped out. Put it back on and went around the block, boosted and came around the corner and opened the hood. Popped out again. What the hell is making my #1 spark plug wiring pop out? This is annoying. No matter how tight I push down it seems to find a way to pop out again. So i'm not 100% yet that the EGR getting blocked fixed the stalling. :cry:
 
sre u sure the little metal clip is actually clipped on the spark plug when u put it on it may be damaged
 
thanks.... swapped the plugs and another set of wires and now the car doesnt pop out the spark plug wires but I havent driven it enough to see if I still have the stalling situation.
 
Sent my car to a dsm specialist. He told me something was wrong with the power transistor. He said a pin came off so he was playing with it and the car stalled out. Now he says the car is fixed and hasnt stalled out once. Can anyone confirm its a possibility? I hope its fixed since I drove an hour to leave my car there plus the money I'm going to pay him and the drive back not to mention the car I had to borrow.
 
Well got the car back and its doing the same shit. I'm so fukin pissed right now. I wasted $65.00 on a transistor that didnt do anything for the car. I also wasted 2 hours traveling back and fourth. Anyway have any ideas? :cry:
 
Have you data logged it yet? Have you cleaned out your intercooler? There might be some oil in it from the re-breather line if you still have that hooked up. How are your motor mounts? maybe CAS? dunno just throwin them out there.
mike :dsm:
 
I dont have a data logger. What I dont understand is before I removed the emissions it didnt stall out. Now after all that was removed it stalls out when at idle after driving about 30+ mins. What would the intercooler have to do with this? Motor mounts are fine. Whats the CAS?
 
did you block off the egr valve.??

also the cas = cam angle sensor. if you have already checked for boost leaks and all that then also check your ecu. usually time related issues to driving has something to do with the ecu..

good luck
 
EGR is blocked off. I dont think my friend test the ISC correctly so I'm about to go do it myself. I'll let you all know what happens. I think its the ISC but an intermittent failure.
 
OK I test the ISC. When cool its around 30 ohms all across. When the car is at operating temp the ISC test around 34 ohms all across. Now the first time I started the car without the ISC connected the car idled at about 900. I shut it off and started the car again and the car idled at about 1500 with a up and down idle like a vac. leak. The third time I started it it idled at around 1200. When I attempted to adjust the idle it wouldnt go less than 1200. I think that rules out the BISS Screw? It also rules out the ISC motor? Does that mean its my FIAV? Anymore other tests I can perform? I also reset the ecu to see if that worked but the weird thing is that before I reset the ecu my car idled around 850-900 rpm. After I reset it its at 750-800 is this normal? Also when I started to drive and stopped at a light the car sat at around 1200 rpm before it came back down to 750. I also let it idle for 15 mins and shut the car down before I took it for a test drive. I'm stumped and the car is going back into the shop if I dont find out what the hell is going on.
 
its a vacuum leak, your friend probably wan't very thorough (sp?). I had the same problem once, the egr was blocked off, so i thought. I made an egr blockoff plate and used mad silicone to plug it up..

Also, learn how to do a boost leak test. If someone recommends it, its a good idea they've been in your shoes before. Maybe when you took off all your shit for "race emissions delete", you left a clamp loose or damaged an intercooler hose. Food for thought.
 
If its a vaccum leak wouldnt the problem happen all the time and also weather the car is hot or cold?
 
also do I need to have a MBC when doing this mod? Here is what the setup should look like:

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My setup(because I dont have a MBC)

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Also i dont know if this matters but the BCS that was on the car had a broken nipple. I replaced it with a friends BCS but he said he didnt know if it was working. Whats the BCS function and could that be causing the car the shut down?
 
If an intercooler has oil sitting in the bottom of it, it will cause it to run funny. I dont think this is your problem. The BCS is a boost control solinoid. It does the same job your MBC or manual boost controler would do. It just does it to a preset spec.
mike :dsm:
 
well... figured out it was the injectors. Swapped them out for a good known set and booyah! no more stalling! :thumb:

Thanks everyone for trying to help me out.
 
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