I have fully rebuilt the motor and I am running into a problem now

[Locke]

Any things I can check to see if the ECU is bad?

Swap with a known good one.

I am not sure too sure the rings. The ones that came with Wiseco pistons. I had a shop do the build and assembly. We turned the crank manually and my mechanic said everything sounded like it was right on. I am not sure if you can tell by ear if things are seating correctly.

No rings are a perfect fit from the factory. As piston clearance rises, so will an unfiled ring gap as it expands. Rings have be filed specifically for each bore they will be placed in.

Rings take many miles to properly seat.

Do the compression test, and consider a leak down test as well. How high does your idle rest when warm?

 

[eclipsers-t]

How high does your idle rest when warm?

I assume you are referring to rpm's, which varies because it is not running correctly. Were able to stabalize the idle a little with the SAFC, which ran around 1000-1200. It does not want to stay at that range very long though.

I wouldn't think that, even though it takes a while for the piston rings to seat, it would make a rough idle and cause the car to run rich? Of course, I am not claiming to be an expert on it though.

I will see about doing a compression test and a leak down test.

 

[Locke]

With blingin' new rings against a fresh hone, you will see slightly lower compression, and likewise slightly less vacuum. But nothing like what you are describing. Rings with gaps aligned with each other would be worse. (I don't know how much, as I've never, nor known anybody to, line ring gaps up.)

What is the condition of the idle without the SAFC? Where does it sit, and is it erratic?

 

[eclipsers-t]

Without and sometimes with the SAFC the idle is erratic and all over. Such as dropping to 200 and jumping to 1500. It is very strange.

When I had the key turned to on the fuel pump started up and everything while we were listening to find the buzzing (ECU) and all of a sudden the fuel pump and everything glitched or like it burped and shut off and came back on. The car has done some interesting things lately. Not real sure what to think of it.

I hope that maybe just the ECU is bad on it.

Has anyone tried using the Mopar ECU for the Neon 420A on the Eclipse? Just a thought!

 

[Locke]

I am assuming this issue did not happen before you rebuilt the engine. You could try cleaning the IAC, but I am not seeing it as the culprit right now. Check that there is not a leak at the MAP sensor, and that the IAC is is not loosely fastened to the TB.

It is normal for the fuel pump to turn on, then shut itself off, when you first turn the key to on without starting the engine. It is unusual for it to turn on so quickly after turning off though. What is your fuel pressure like?

As stated, '95 ECU's do seem to go bad way more than other years. Could be. I don't think Mopar ECU's will work, I don't remember why.

Swap it if you know somebody with a known good ECU. Do the free tests (compression, FP, leak down) before you spend money on an ECU.

 

[XMasta19]

There is plenty to do still...you need to fully diagnose and troubleshoot the problem one step at a time, dont just jump all over, and defintely don't just start throwing money at random parts to fix it


Please do the compression test and post your numbers...

 

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

I had a problem kind of like what you having. It ended up being timing. I say use the dowl rod method to see exactly when ## pistion is at tdc, with you valve cover off so you can also use dowls in the cams to make sure there straight up.

 

[eclipsers-t]

We did have the valve cover off and had a rod down to see where the piston was. It all came out to be fine. I will have to do the compression test soon. I will let you all know once I get the numbers!

 

[XMasta19]

I will have to do the compression test soon. I will let you all know once I get the numbers!

We anxiously await the results...

 

[dr1665]

1. MECHANICAL TIMING.
2. FUEL TRIMS.
3. YOU DIDN'T NEED AN SAFC BEFORE - YOU SHOULDN'T NEED ONE NOW.

Something worth mentioning, here...

As someone else who runs the Crower 2 cams (albeit, not the turbo grind), the overlap in the profile is known to hav a nevgative affect on idle vacuum. Granted, the turbo grinds were specifically designed to pull some of that overlap out of the equation for forced induction applications, but there might still be a bit there, which will cause a downs posse 2GNT ECU (they really, truly suck) to just ram fuel in there at idle.

Tips I've come up with for this super-rich idle condition over the years:

1. The car is going to want to flood-out during low speed operations for the first couple days. Example: When you're backing out of a parking space. You'll back up, put the clutch in, and pffft. The fire goes out. As time goes on, the long- and short-term fuel trim values in the ECU will be better able to compensate for the reduced vacuum down low, but if everything else is fine, you should be fine within a couple weeks of driving.

2. It doesn't matter how "used to the cams" the ECU might be, if you lose the VSS, the engine will want to flood out every time you engage the clutch once up to operating temperature. It's the biggest reason, aside from expired tags, why my Talon hasn't been driven more than ten miles yet this year. The ECU likes to hold idle up a bit while the car is moving, but if you lose the VSS, the ECU thinks the car just stopped and goes right down to idle. Low vac = high fuel from the ECU.

Note: This does not mean to say that I think your cams are the problem. It's just to elaborate that, without outside tuning, those cams will result in things running really rich in the bottom end - especially if you have headwork done.

Note 2: I'd break that engine in without boost. At least for a couple days until you can tell it's running okay. Open up the WG so you make no boost and be sure to turn that fuel pressure down to stock levels.

I see no reason why your car shouldn't run just fine without SAFC unless A) timing is off or B) your fuel settings are just too rich down low for the reduced vacuum of those cams. Exhaust can be a bit on the bubbly side while compression braking and what not (turbo cars will do that), but you should not be sputtering and popping under acceleration like that.

 

[Blitzeclips]

but you should not be sputtering and popping under acceleration like that.

I agree. Have you checked the plug gaps lately?

 

[eclipsers-t]

We are going to do the compression test tomorrow evening.

What numbers can I expect to see with 8.8:1 pistons?

Thanks

 

[4UH8ERS]

We are going to do the compression test tomorrow evening.

What numbers can I expect to see with 8.8:1 pistons?

Thanks

about 185 in all cylinders would be good.

 

[eclipsers-t]

Compression Numbers

186, 185, 185, 187

 

[eclipsers-t]

I must have stumped everyone. I posted the numbers and the compression seems to be right on target!

ECU?

 

[4UH8ERS]

I must have stumped everyone. I posted the numbers and the compression seems to be right on target!

ECU?

Try to find someone to swap with you.

If thats not it try kicking it really hard.........................(j/k of course)

 

[eclipsers-t]

Yea, I have been trying to find someone to see if I could plug theirs up or find one at the junk yard. No luck yet!

How hard do I have to kick it?

 

[eclipsers-t]

Anyone just have one lying around? Not using it?

 

[4UH8ERS]

Anyone just have one lying around? Not using it?

You can call all mitsubishi here in arkansas, i think there a sponsor of this site. Anyway, I think they sell used ones for like $35 and if it doesnt work you can return it for a %50 refund.

 

[link16]

Your idle issue and vac issue is perhaps what I did. Did you forget to put the egr blockoff on the IM side? You used teh SAFC to calm it down but that is what my problem was, the fuel pressure is way too high for stock plugs, so I need to get better plugs and turn my fuel pressure down...that should fix all of your problems. If so than you are in the same boat as me.

 

[eclipsers-t]

link--are you talking about blocking it off on the intake manifold? I am not real sure what you are referring to.

Could you elaborate?

 

[XMasta19]

Getting an egr blockoff kit, and only blocking off one of the two sides...

 

[eclipsers-t]

Both sides are blocked off.

For a 95 NT ECU does it matter what type of transmission you have?

There is an automatic with an ECU at the junk yard!

 

[XMasta19]

They are different...

 

[eclipsers-t]

Thanks X