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I eliminated my rear O2 sensor today...

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Jezza

10+ Year Contributor
88
5
Feb 23, 2011
Appleton, Wisconsin
I thought I would share exactly how I did it.
*note* You would be modifying your vehicle in a way the factory never intended. If something goes wrong and you mess something up, I am in no way responsible.

First, the parts list: (all from Radio Shack)

(1) 3" x 6" project enclosure
(1) Universal perf board (cut it to fit the enclosure)
(1) 271-1134 1m Ohm resistor
(1) 272-1055 1.0 micro-farad metal film capacitor
(2) 271-133 50 ohm 10 watt resistors (These are two packs. You need 4 resistors total)

Step one:
Remove your driver's seat and the center console.

Step two:
Locate the wire for the O2 sensor under the carpet and follow it to where the connector is taped to the floor under the carpet. Disconnect the connector and remove your post-cat O2 sensor. Put a new grommet in the hole in the floor to keep the water out.

Step three:
Cut the harness off of the O2 sensor as close as possible to have as much wire to work with as you want.

Step four:
Build the O2 simulator. Make sure you solder all connections. None of this twisted wires and electrical tape crap. I used the diagram at vfaq and one I found on this site. Wire the four 271-133 resistors in parallel to the black wires. Wire the 271-1134 resistor and the 272-1055 capacitor in parallel to the blue and white wires. I used four resistors instead of three because it seemed that three was getting a little too hot. I drilled a few holes in the cover of the project box to allow air to circulate to keep everything cool inside.

The diagram from vfaq:
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Picture of wiring courtesy of BoBbOrAzE:
attachment.php


My finished simulator:
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Step five:
Plug in your new O2 simulator and enjoy cel-free motoring!

Oh yeah, Step six:
Reinstall your seat and center console.
 

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My downpipe eliminated my cat and my old sensor was so rusted into the former exhaust that it was unsalvageable. I had the choice to do this or buy a new sensor and hope the non-fouler trick would work. This was by far the cheaper of two evils.

The cost? Less than $12.
 
WTF would you do all this for? They sell 02 simulators for a reason for 1. For 2 if you want to get rid of it just unplug it and 9 out of 10 times you won't get a cel light. 3. If you have no cats on the car and still have the rear o2 you won't get check engine light. I never did for years.
And finally get a damn wideband and put it in the rear o2 location and wire it in.
 
O2 simulators cost about $50 and I'd have to wait for shipping. I had a cel from running with the sensor unplugged and this made it go away, all for $12 and about an hour of my time. I plan on a wideband when I decide to raise the boost.
 
Instead of bashing him why don't you appreciate what he did.

He is a relatively new member yet he took the time to do a write up on something and contribute to the site instead of cluttering it up with already answered questions. while yes many of us have no use for this write up someone may be happy he posted it.

Good job thats a pretty clean set up.
 
Instead of bashing him why don't you appreciate what he did.

He is a relatively new member yet he took the time to do a write up on something and contribute to the site instead of cluttering it up with already answered questions. while yes many of us have no use for this write up someone may be happy he posted it.

Good job thats a pretty clean set up.

:thumb: Thanks!
 
Click on the proper section (Electrical) and there is a button underneath just like you would start a new post. Then it will ask you to select the category again, do it and type it up and submit it.
 
i made one of these a few months ago-- same method w/o the board. im not sure if it was just REAL cold outside or what... but it got REAL hot and i saw smoke/steam coming out my box. it worked though, but got hotter than i imagined it would.

nice writeup though, and very clean looking item :)
 

Close. I modified his design a bit.

i made one of these a few months ago-- same method w/o the board. im not sure if it was just REAL cold outside or what... but it got REAL hot and i saw smoke/steam coming out my box. it worked though, but got hotter than i imagined it would.

nice writeup though, and very clean looking item :)

What resistors did you use? Since they are simulating the heater circuit, they are not an area to skimp on. Overkill here is best in my opinion. Mine gets warm, but not hot.
 
Last edited:
Close. I modified his design a bit.



What resistors did you use? Since they are simulating the heater circuit, they are not an area to skimp on. Overkill here is best in my opinion. Mine gets warm, but not hot.

it was the exact same setup used in the link posed by snowboarder-- and by hot i mean like id pick up the case and it would BURN my hand in like 7-10 sec :mad:
 
Did you use three or four resistors? That may be the difference in the heat.
 
Would this work on any car?

It should work on any car with a 4 wire sensor, but don't quote me on that. A 1 or 2 wire sensor should only need the small resistor and the capacitor. Some cars may have different signal tolerances though.
 
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