i broke something help me figure it out

[funguy]

i broke something @ the track

1. rear wheels skid, and lock when i do slow tiny radius turns
2. lots of clunks and thuds
3. newest symptom developed today, violent clutch like slipping. whenever i'm at a stop and load the car up to move, it does not want to move, it free revs and creeps slowly up to speed.

anyone have the same degree of symptoms when they blew the center diff? or could be be possible something worse?

any feedback is appreciated.

 

[twicks69]

Expect a center differential failure with more damage in the case. If you are hearing clunks and thuds, you have gear teeth bouncing around in the case, causing things to bind up, and mar everything in the case. You will need new everything, as there is likely little salvageable. If the case isn't leaking, you might be able to walk away without a destroyed transmission case.

Pony up for a complete rebuild or purchasing a brand new transmission ~$2600 minimum.

Sorry to tell you the bad news.

 

[twicks69]

You can order directly from Shep a brand new transmission "stock" or modified.

I would reccomend a tranny that includes a 4-spider center differential and the torrington bearing, along with the heavy duty 3/4 setup.

http://www.sheptrans.com/details.php?sid=38 ~3100-3200 shipped. Done.

 

[funguy]

i have actually looked into the shep stage 3 already. I'm not sure if my case is completely until it does it taken out. It shifts into every gear very nicely as if it is working as normal. Well, i do drive it still right now but i know its a no no. its my daily driver , so i can't do much of anything else. BOO.

have guys taken a look @ jacks transmission? I kinda like the premium built as it looks like it has evoIII 3rd and 4th gears as well. Can anyone chime in if they have a jacks transmission rebuild?

thanks.

 

[funguy]

also if i opt to buy a core from elsewhere, i was told i can only grab a 97-99 awd transmission? is this correct? or can i grab any 95-99 2g awd tranny? because i am having a heck of a time find cores.

 

[twicks69]

Cores are pretty much non-existent. You want a 97-99 trans only.

Your best bet would be either a rebuild, or new replacement (stock or modified), and give Shep your case as a core.

 

[funguy]

thank you very much for your answer. just what i needed to know. i guess i'll just end up buying a brand spanking new one from shep. as i believe i toasted my viscous coupling as well. i might as well just get a new one because with all the repair fee's it'll end up as expensive as a brand spanking new one from shep.

 

[twicks69]

When you pull the tranny out, take some pictures. I really would like to see how damaged it is.

I can give you in-depth tranny breakdown steps, and a link to a very good breakdown tech article.

It does take quite a few different tools, an air compressor, prybars, etc to properly disassemble it. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, just drain it WELL, and ship it to shep; maybe he can give you a core credit.

 

[funguy]

i'll try to take some pics or list what is broken. i won't be able to break down the transmission unfortunately as i don't have the right tools.

one more question, i'm going to be putting it on the dyno to tune as well. if i run a viscous coupler eliminator, can i just leave in there permanently? what are the side effects?

 

[twicks69]

You do NOT want to run a viscous coupler eliminator on the street -- you will be in for a world of hurt if you do.

They are made for dyno purposes only if you do not have an AWD dyno available.

Viscous coupler eliminators should ONLY be used on a dyno, after being properly installed. Proper installation directions are below:

To install and run a viscous coupler eliminator, you have to:

1: Put vehicle on lift or jack stands to gain access to transmission area.
2: Drain the transmission by removing the drain plug with a 24mm socket.
3: Using a 14mm gearwrench and 14mm short socket with 3/8" ratchet (or a good air ratchet), remove the 11 bolts attaching the end cover to the transmission.
4: Separate the end cover using a flathead screwdriver or small prybar -- it shouldn't be hard to separate, as the permatex gasket is the only thing holding it there.
5: When you remove the end cover, be ready to catch anything that falls out, as there is the 5th/reverse outer synchro that is mounted on the outside of the gear, and held in place by a wave spring that is keyed and installed on the inside mounting surface of the end cover.
6: Using a snapring pliers (one that has two flat edges for tips), remove the snapring that is holding on the viscous coupler.
7: Now, gently slide off the viscous coupler, and be careful to NOT LOSE the stainless steel detent ball that sits in a recess on the shaft. There are two detents on the shaft, and only 1 ball -- it doesn't matter which detent the ball is in, just as long as the ball is installed in the shaft -- that is the important part.
8: Now install the viscous coupler eliminator onto the shaft, and install the snap ring fully into the groove. If it is slightly loose, REPLACE the snap ring before going any further. So be prepared with an extra one or two before doing this project.
9: Now reinstall the 5th/reverse synchro if it has fallen off, using a dab of grease to hold it in place while you reinstall the end cover with the wave spring properly keyed into place.
10: Make sure that both mating surfaces are clean, and use an ultra-gray or ultra-black Permatex gasket material on the end cover gasket surface.
11: Place end cover back on, and reinstall the 11 bolts.
12: Refill transmission with 2.5 quarts of your preferred transmission gear oil, and go dyno. (I prefer Redline Lightweight Shockproof Gear Oil).

13: Disconnect your transfer case (5 bolts) http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224419 , and separate your transfer case from the driveshaft -- it should EASILY slide off. There will be some fluid drainage out of the drive shaft yoke, so have a rag handy. There are also a few holes in the driveshaft tunnel a few inches back from where the driveshaft yoke usually sits -- these holes are handy because you can slide a couple zip ties through the hole, making a loop, then you take a separate zip tie and loop it around the driveshaft and connect it through the zip tie loop you just made. DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN THE ZIP TIE TO THE DRIVESHAFT -- it needs slack so that it can rotate when you push the car forward onto the dyno.

When you are done dyno'ing, you have to redo these steps, and remove the viscous coupler eliminator, and reinstall your viscous coupler, and refill the transmission, along with reinstalling the transfer case back onto the driveshaft and transmission.

The whole process should take around an hour each way after doing it a few times. Be sure to plan more for your first time.

If you do not remove the viscous coupler eliminator, it will NOT be a good thing. I have seen them spin off the shaft while driving, and make a window in the end cover, leaving the eliminator lodged into the front passenger wheel. I have seen other destructive failures by keeping them in, and it is not designed for street use -- just dyno use.