I ate a valve.

[babyviper]

B/S belt snapped and took out the timing belt causing my motor to eat a valve. I have a hole in one of my pistins so I'm going to order some pistons and some bearings. My question is do I need to rehone if theres still crosshatrches on the block and also there is no scratches either. The other question is with all that pressure against the crank when it hit the valves, do i need to replace the main bolts or get the block checked out?

Brandon.

 

[GTM]

...
I have a hole in one of my pistins so I'm going to order some pistons and some bearings. My question is do I need to rehone if theres still crosshatrches on the block and also there is no scratches either. The other question is with all that pressure against the crank when it hit the valves, do i need to replace the main bolts or get the block checked out?

Brandon.

Sorry to read this. You should use a bead hone to deglaze the cylrs and get a new crosshatch pattern.

Depending on cash flow, skills, and tools you might want to check for a bent crank. It takes a lot of force to punch a hole in a piston so you could have destroyed the combustion chamber and needing a new head. Dents can be taken out with a peening hammer, if the seat was hit badly (valve head on edge) it may need replacing along with valve guides. Engine rpm at the time of failure plays a significant role in damage. There is a lot more but just needed to point out some of the factors involved.

I have never heard of replacing main bolts as a general course of repair but then I'm not a DSM expert.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[babyviper]

I'm not worried about the head I'll justt trash that but the onlyu thing Im worried about is the block. The engine ate a valve at idle or upon starting because the car was running bad then it stalled out/cut off then I tried to restart it and heard a bad noise after that I tore the head off and noticed that there was a hole in the piston. and indentations in all of the rest or the pistons. the hole was put ni the piston by the valve breaking off flipping upside down and puncturing a hole in the piston with the small pointed side not the flat side of the valve. O yeah let me let you know that this is on a 1990 gsx with a 6-bolt motor not my spyder.

 

[LaN-]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219422

look at the posts toward the bottom, the guy posted some links that might help you out

some people say to rehone the block others say dont.

i think alot of it has to do with what type of rings you plan on using when you put it back together.

All n All look at that and you'll figure it out

 

[babyviper]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219422

look at the posts toward the bottom, the guy posted some links that might help you out

some people say to rehone the block others say dont.

i think alot of it has to do with what type of rings you plan on using when you put it back together.

All n All look at that and you'll figure it out

I read that thread last week it helped me out a lot but the main question I have is about anything getting fked up from the pressure or should i just replace the pistons and bearing and call it a night.

 

[GTM]

I read that thread last week it helped me out a lot but the main question I have is about anything getting fked up from the pressure or should i just replace the pistons and bearing and call it a night.

It would be prudent to check for a bent crank and rods. The old pistons, ring, and rods can be used with the crank in the block. The block and pistons must be clean, use a straight edge and feeler gauges to measure piston height for each cylr. Anything with more than .05" variation is to be suspect though you should verify that number with factory specs. It would be best to determine this before ordering parts for it could make a difference from a cost standpoint.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[babyviper]

It would be prudent to check for a bent crank and rods. The old pistons, ring, and rods can be used with the crank in the block. The block and pistons must be clean, use a straight edge and feeler gauges to measure piston height for each cylr. Anything with more than .05" variation is to be suspect though you should verify that number with factory specs. It would be best to determine this before ordering parts for it could make a difference from a cost standpoint.

Cheers,
GTM

Thanks! That is exactly what i was looking for.

 

[babyviper]

Another question I had was should I get new bearing? If I do is it a drop in installation or should there be some machine work done to install new bearings?