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2G How to rewire fuel pump? (Bosch relay wiring diagram)

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98FWDSM

15+ Year Contributor
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Jul 27, 2003
ok, I am enclosing a picture of the relay that i have and i just wanted to make sure that i am gonna wire it correctly....first of all i dont have a harness so i was just gonna sauter the wires directly to the terminals, hopefully that will be ok? the fuse holder off of the positive terminal of the battery will connect to #30, the new bigger 10 gauge power wire will connect to #87, the old fuel pump power wire will connect to #85, and i will have a ground wire connected to #86....i am hoping this is all correct as i am about to do it all now :)

Thanks
Chris
 

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Take a look on the Vfaq...If there's nothing there....I'd try to troubleshoot/wire it using a multimeter..Good luck bro..dan
 
95WTSI said:
Sorry, but what is point of the rewire anyway?
It supposedly will give you a little better pump speed (and fuel pressure) and make it give a more steady speed (and pressure). Mostly, it puts-off installing a Walbro or Supra pump until you realize it doesn't really do much more than squat.

However, it does make for a good opportunity to sneak in a fuel pump cutoff switch someplace, perhaps enough to keep the car from getting stolen.
 
It supposedly will give you a little better pump speed (and fuel pressure) and make it give a more steady speed (and pressure). Mostly, it puts-off installing a Walbro or Supra pump until you realize it doesn't really do much more than squat.

However, it does make for a good opportunity to sneak in a fuel pump cutoff switch someplace, perhaps enough to keep the car from getting stolen.

So i am going to put in a Walbro 255 this weekend along with the Aero FPR do i need to rewire the pump or just hook it up to the stock stuff.
 
It supposedly will give you a little better pump speed (and fuel pressure) and make it give a more steady speed (and pressure). Mostly, it puts-off installing a Walbro or Supra pump until you realize it doesn't really do much more than squat.

However, it does make for a good opportunity to sneak in a fuel pump cutoff switch someplace, perhaps enough to keep the car from getting stolen.

thats my plans when i go to do this.. just the question is, where to put the "on/off" switch ROFL
 
The wiring before that is the problem to. By using a relay, it is a switch that will allow more current to pass, being activated by the stock wiring.
 
So you still need some sort of switch to send power to your fuel pump. A relay allows you to run thin guage wire from your switch to the relay, so when you switch your switch, it turns the relay one and allows current to pass through from your battery to your fuel pump.
 
I followed jakegaisser's tech article making some substitutions since my battery is relocated to the trunk. I ran 8ga all the way from the battery thru my fuse link to the relay. maybe all of three feet. I also ran the ground with 8ga. This I connected back to the same anchor bolt for the rear seatbelt that Jake did. I used crimp connectors that I heatshrink tubed. I couldn't find any red sheath 8ga wire around town so I picked up black 8ga wire and made red tips for it with red heat shrink tubing to keep everything straight. I was able to pass both new 8ga feed and ground wires thru the original opening on the rubber boot of the fuel pump cover. It worked just great. I have never in the past heard my fuel pump. Now I can hear it! I gotta admit I was a little nervous doing this mod. I just have a weird mental block when it comes to automotive wiring. After having done it, I have no idea why! I have read all the vfaqs on the fuel pump rewire and I chose to do mine like his. His tech article was very well written, laid out and it really helped. I printed it out and kept it with me while I was doing the rewire.:talon:
 

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Good stuff dude, glad to hear it worked well for you. Great job on the ground too, that is just as important as the power wire.
 
Sorry, but what is point of the rewire anyway?

I read about this someplace before I did my rewire the other day. Yes it is to get more current AND more voltage to the pump. The article I read explained how the pumps are tested at 14V, and how at a given pressure my Walbro 255 hp won't actually flow 255lph at only 11.1 volts. I tested the voltage at my Wally and sure enough 11.1 volts.

I ran an 8ga wire to my battery with a fuse holder, and put a relay under the seat, turned on by the original 11.1 volt supplyin' POS wire. I added an 8ga ground wire to match, and Viola, 13.26 volts at my pump.

So it does a little more than squat, and when I have TWO 4G63T engines running my current setup in my car, I may actually use 255lph of gasoline. LOL
 
I have a little bit different question for this. Everyone probably knows that we have [OFF>ACC>IGN>START] positions, but on 2G cars fuel pump starts working only on START, while almost every other car gives +12V to the fuel pump on IGNITION position, so that you can fill the system and then start...
> What do you think about making a rewiring setup in THIS WAY?
 
I have a little bit different question for this. Everyone probably knows that we have [OFF>ACC>IGN>START] positions, but on 2G cars fuel pump starts working only on START, while almost every other car gives +12V to the fuel pump on IGNITION position, so that you can fill the system and then start...
> What do you think about making a rewiring setup in THIS WAY?

Did you ever get a response? I think that is a great idea since my car doesn't want to start after its warmed up.
 
I have a little bit different question for this. Everyone probably knows that we have [OFF>ACC>IGN>START] positions, but on 2G cars fuel pump starts working only on START, while almost every other car gives +12V to the fuel pump on IGNITION position, so that you can fill the system and then start...
> What do you think about making a rewiring setup in THIS WAY?

I would like to know how to do this as well.
 
Change the trigger wire to a 12v key-on instead of the stock cas trigger. There you go guys.
 
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