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HOW TO : Re-thread your Greddy Type S BOV (pics)

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I doubt anyone will ever need to do this but since I suppose I'm a first, there might be others later.

OK so I stripped the threads on my Greddy Type S BOV because when I tried to tune it i turned the nut clockwise using a wrench instead of using an allen key to turn the stud instead. Still, there were some threads left that I could still use the bov at a fairly soft setting; still functional. Well on my lunch break, I usually go home to eat and on my way, there was a loud hissing sound and my idle was really low. Turns out the screw had flown off because the remaining threads didn't hold it.

So here is a HOW TO on rethreading your BOV so that you don't have to spend money on a new one!

ATTENTION : This is ONLY for a Greddy Type S BOV. You also must find a way to plug up the small hole inside the adjustment port while you work on it in order to prevent shards of metal falling in!! I also assume no responsibility for anyone damaging themselves or their equipment as a result of this "how to."

Tools you need:

safety goggles
1/4" drill bit
power drill : recommend AT LEAST a 12v ; It was real tough to do with my 12v
pliers
Permacoil thread repair kit (or something similar) : M6 x 1.0 Metric <- that measurement is what is important
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Q-tips : the more the better.
3-in-1 Multi Purpose Oil ; really you can use any oil, but types like motor oil is too thick.
M6x1.0 x 20 screw
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not all the tools are shown in the pic

STEP 1:
ightly coat the installed drill bit with oil all the way around. Don't worry if you use too much as it wont hurt.

STEP 2:
Secure the BOV down to a work table or something so that it won't twist when you are drilling. You can even use some wood, drill holes into it using the gasket as a template, and temporarily bolt the bov into the wood. Then you can stand on the ends of the wood to keep it still while you . . . .

STEP 3:
Put on your safety goggles and . . .

STEP 4:
Carefully drill out the remaining threads inside the bov. Try to keep as perpendicular to the BOV's plane as possible, though you will find the threads will somewhat aim you in the proper angle.

Be aware of the wetness of the drill and bov. You want to keep it lubricated so it doesnt heat up while drilling.

STEP 5:
soak a q-tip with just enough oil to moisten the entire tip, and turn the bov upside down so gravity will work with you and not against you. Use the q-tip and "screw" it in all the way and keep turning in the same direction as you pull out.

STEP 6:
repeat step 5 until it's clean inside.

STEP 7:
use the tapping bit to rethread the newly drilled hole; again, use the oil to wet the bit to make it easier.

GO SLOWLY, you don't want to rush this part. Turn a half turn, then back a quarter turn. Keep doing this while adding oil if you feel it is necessary, though it most likely will not be needed more than once. When you feel like you have gone in about a half an inch, back it out slowly going about a half a turn each time.

STEP 8:
repeat step 7 TWO more times minimum. Go three times if you still feel like it is cutting a fair amount. Use the q-tip method to clean the tapping bit and the inside of the bov between each repetition. The better it cuts the grooves in, the better your new threads will be.

STEP 9:
You have the option to either use the supplied plastic tool to help aim the coil or to just do without it. I tried using the plastic tool three times and broke three coils before the third one got stuck and broke inside the plastic tool, so I threw it away and just used the insertion tool by itself.

There is what is called a 'tang' on one side of the coil which is sorta like a tail and near it there is a notch on the coil where it will be broken off later. DO NOT BREAK IT OFF NOW OR YOU MIGHT AS WELL THROW THAT COIL AWAY.

The way I did it because the tool was mad stupid . . .

I used an oil dampened q-tip head to re-wet the new threads, and also wet the coil I was about to use. I then set the coil tang down on top of the bov and used my finger to start screwing it into the newly rethreaded hole. As soon as it bit, I used the insertion tool to continue screwing it in further. Keep going until the coil has gone in about 3/4 of the way in.

STEP 10:
take a skinny and durable object (i used a skinny drill bit) and while holding the bov upside down, break the tang off the coil by hammering the bit into the coil. More specifically, I made sure the bit was touching the tang, turned it upside down, and mashed down strong enough so that the tang broke. It will fall out fairly easily after that. Do not wait until the coil is in too far or else you will never get that tang out.

STEP 11:
Take your screw (new or the one that came with the bov) and start screwing it into its new home. As you do this, the coil will continue to go in further because of the oil that you had placed earlier . . . how smart! Dont' worry It wont keep going; as soon as the entire coil is inside the bov, it will stop following the screw. why? i dunno, but it just does. If it doesn't follow the screw for whatever reason, you can use the pliers and grab the coil at its closest point to the bov that isn't threaded in yet and push it in its general direction.

STEP 12:
Take a sigh of breath because you don't have to spend more money on a bov, give yourself a pat on the back and grab a beer. You're done :thumb:
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