2G how to install the ac compressor and ac tensioner pulley?

[randizzle420]

My car is a 95 eclipse gsx 5 speed that I bought with the entire ac removed from the engine bay. i'm trying to figure out how to install the ac tensioner pulley, compressor, and compressor bracket. I think as long as I can get these installed, the rest will be a piece of cake. I'm not sure what bolts I'll need or am missing but there's two bolts in the compressor and one bolt in the tensioner. No bolts on the bracket. I'm not even sure if these are the right parts but the part numbers should be visible in the pics. Is there a book that tells me what bolts I need or a thread that shows what bolts I'd need and how to install all this?

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I believe I figured out how to place the ac tensioner and bracket along with the compressor. I looked up the bracket part number and it is for a fwd turbo. Can I use this bracket? I'm confused because there is only 3 bolt holes on the engine to mount the bracket to. Do I have to remove the axle to be able to mount the 4th hole on the bracket or will it not work because the fwd bracket doesn't work with the awd axle bracket? My issue is that it looks like there are 4 bolts the bracket needs to be bolted into what is it the engine I believe. I don't have those 4 bolts and need to know which bolts to buy. Also I believe I'm missing the two bolts for the ac tensioner that screw into the bracket. I have two bolts that are attached to the compressor. Do I need more to bolt it to the bracket?

 

[waltah]

This may be your lucky day. I may be the current DSMTuners Expert on installing the A/C compressor in a '95 turbo car having just done it the past two days. ;-) The only issue may be that mine's a GS-T, though I don't see how that would make a difference.

Furthermore I have a complete set of parts handy because I have a parts car and did a mix-and-match that ended with a full set of leftovers. I'll post pictures tomorrow. The only issue I can see is that none of the parts in your pictures really looks just like the ones I was working with today. But that may not be meaningful.

You should be able to find a fourth hole in the block for mounting of the compressor bracket. They're in an 'almost square' pattern; the top passenger end hole is out of sight under the intake manifold.

I'm not sure the bracket in your picture is right but that's the side toward the engine so not the one I spend an hour feeling my way around the last two days. First thing to do is check the part numbers. If you search 'mitsubishi parts' you'll find a bunch of places that have catalogs you can throw a part number at to find out what it's supposed to be for. They are usually right but be sure to read the whole page as the summary is usually incomplete -- there's often a longer list down at the bottom.

I'll study this some tomorrow and try to post real info tomorrow night or next day. What you want to do is perfectly possible -- just a moderately tough driveway job. On the GS-T it can all be done from above -- no axle removal or anything. Took me about two hours to bolt it all in but I already had all the stuff in the way removed from taking out the old one -- figure another hour for that plus one more for general cussedness of doing one of these jobs for the first time.

Edit: This page has the parts info you need.

Condenser, Compressor & Lines for 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse | Mitsubishi Parts Warehouse

www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com

A complication is that the compressor listed is an 'MR' number. These seem to be 'replacement' designs -- not the one originally fitted to the cars, at least not the early cars -- so there could be one or more other numbers that would also work.

All the key parts seem to be the same for GS-T and GSX so your job should be just like mine.

 

[randizzle420]

This may be your lucky day. I may be the current DSMTuners Expert on installing the A/C compressor in a '95 turbo car having just done it the past two days. ;-) The only issue may be that mine's a GS-T, though I don't see how that would make a difference.

Furthermore I have a complete set of parts handy because I have a parts car and did a mix-and-match that ended with a full set of leftovers. I'll post pictures tomorrow. The only issue I can see is that none of the parts in your pictures really looks just like the ones I was working with today. But that may not be meaningful.

You should be able to find a fourth hole in the block for mounting of the compressor bracket. They're in an 'almost square' pattern; the top passenger end hole is out of sight under the intake manifold.

I'm not sure the bracket in your picture is right but that's the side toward the engine so not the one I spend an hour feeling my way around the last two days. First thing to do is check the part numbers. If you search 'mitsubishi parts' you'll find a bunch of places that have catalogs you can throw a part number at to find out what it's supposed to be for. They are usually right but be sure to read the whole page as the summary is usually incomplete -- there's often a longer list down at the bottom.

I'll study this some tomorrow and try to post real info tomorrow night or next day. What you want to do is perfectly possible -- just a moderately tough driveway job. On the GS-T it can all be done from above -- no axle removal or anything. Took me about two hours to bolt it all in but I already had all the stuff in the way removed from taking out the old one -- figure another hour for that plus one more for general cussedness of doing one of these jobs for the first time.

Edit: This page has the parts info you need.

Condenser, Compressor & Lines for 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse | Mitsubishi Parts Warehouse

www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com

A complication is that the compressor listed is an 'MR' number. These seem to be 'replacement' designs -- not the one originally fitted to the cars, at least not the early cars -- so there could be one or more other numbers that would also work.

All the key parts seem to be the same for GS-T and GSX so your job should be just like mine.

97 98 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.0L Turbo OEM A/C Compressor Mounting Bracket

Fit 1997 1998 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse (GST FWD, GSX AWD 2.0L Turbo 4G63T Convertible & Hatchback) Engine. mounting bolts included. MRZ01555 *Used OEM Condition. *Picture Shown Are The Actual Item You Receive. *Item Location: California, United States. *Item Removed From This Eclipse.

www.autopart3.com

Look at the part number. It's the same as my bracket. There are two different brackets maybe 3. I know 95-96 and 97-99 are different. Do you have AC lines? I'm in desperate need of a full set. Also, the tensioner looks correct. You sure that's not the right ac tensioner because it bolts right up to my bracket. Do you know if the AC bracket connects to the block first THEN the axle bracket goes ontop of the AC bracket? I believe my car has a spacer inbetween the axle bracket and block. I do not think a gs-t has that axle bracket because it's not awd like mine. My ac bracket connects to the axle bracket in some way on the right bottom bolt hole on the ac bracket

 

[waltah]

97 98 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.0L Turbo OEM A/C Compressor Mounting Bracket

Fit 1997 1998 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse (GST FWD, GSX AWD 2.0L Turbo 4G63T Convertible & Hatchback) Engine. mounting bolts included. MRZ01555 *Used OEM Condition. *Picture Shown Are The Actual Item You Receive. *Item Location: California, United States. *Item Removed From This Eclipse.

www.autopart3.com

Look at the part number. It's the same as my bracket. There are two different brackets maybe 3. I know 95-96 and 97-99 are different. Do you have AC lines? I'm in desperate need of a full set. Also, the tensioner looks correct. You sure that's not the right ac tensioner because it bolts right up to my bracket. Do you know if the AC bracket connects to the block first THEN the axle bracket goes ontop of the AC bracket? I believe my car has a spacer inbetween the axle bracket and block. I do not think a gs-t has that axle bracket because it's not awd like mine. My ac bracket connects to the axle bracket in some way on the right bottom bolt hole on the ac bracket

Okay, so maybe not so lucky after all. However there are a few things I'm pretty sure about.

1. The link I included above shows the parts I took off my car fitting both the 95 GS-T and GSX.

2. The compressor and bracket in your photo seem to be for the 94-95 Galant but may also fit the 97 & later Eclipse ... I didn't try to figure that out since I didn't see any sign that they fit the 95 Eclipse.

3. The parts I have aren't for sale -- I'm probably going to reinstall them on the parts car in the hope of one day getting it running. I'm sorry I was unclear about that.

4. I didn't realize you didn't have all the plumbing. There might be some differences between GS-T and GSX cars there -- I just don't know.

5. Unless I'm missing something important the parts you have aren't for your car. Of course I do miss important things, so ... could be.

Here are some pictures of the parts that came off my 95 GS-T

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Top of the compressor. The weird connector at the right is for the refrigerant temperature sensor -- the plastic cap is broken off. Notice the position of the dowels on the ports.

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The tensioner arm bolted to the compressor bracket. The short M10 bolts (pic below) go in the two bottom holes, the long ones in the top two. Because you're working under the overhanging top of the bracket and there are ridges around the heads the top two are ... difficult.

I could imagine some sort of axle hanger bolting on over the bottom two pads on this compressor bracket. Since that wouldn't be an A/C part it isn't shown in the diagrams at the link.

There's an A/C installation manual for the GS-T/GSX cars but I don't have a copy ... yet! If anyone has one and wants to swap for the manual for the RS & GS (420a) cars get in touch! These manuals are stronger on the issues in putting major parts in a car that doesn't have A/C so they're sometimes helpful.

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This shows how the compressor, compressor bracket, and tensioner arm are assembled when installed. The belt runs over the top of the tensioner arm then around the compressor pulley and down to the crank pulley and back up to the tensioner. You have to take the alternator belt off the crank pulley to put the A/C belt on but other than that it's not as bad a job as it looks.

When installing these parts I put the compressor down in the hole first and shoved it out of the way back under the manifold. Then I installed the bracket and pulled the compressor back to the right place. I then put in all the compressor bolts -- once it is up in place you cannot install the lower two. Then put the compressor up on the little tabs at the bottom of the bracket and start the top driver's end bolt. After that it''s pretty easy except for the tightening.

Notice the difference in the arrangement of the bolt, dowel, and port on each port compared to your compressor. On Mitsubishi cars in this era there is no way to interchange just parts of a system -- it's all or nothing -- due to dowels and similar fussiness at each of the connections. Trying to move a complete system from one car to another will work if the individual parts all work but whether you could (say) swap a complete '97 GSX system into a '95 car or not I have no clue.

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Unfortunately I can't find a Mitsubishi/DSM part number on the compressor -- just the MB Heavy Industries number shown here.

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The part number on the compressor bracket is MB946073.

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Thinking about the overall situation and assuming you already have the evaporator in place under the dash and the condenser in front of the radiator I would try to find a DSMer who has removed the system from a '95 GSX and is willing to sell you the complete kit, bolts, plumbing, and all. Even if you have all that, though, this is a tough job because once it's all installed you have to get it working and that takes at least semi-pro skills and tools. With everything having been open and exposed for a while all the parts except the compressor should be flushed with solvent and shop air to clean out not just old oil (in old cars this is usually a mixture of maybe not compatible oils) and plain old dirt. The evaporator really should be pulled, dismantled, and with the expansion valve out, flushed.

I'd be inclined to locate a professional who would do this work and deliver your parts kit to him since all the flushing is easier with the parts out of the car. You might even find one who can locate the 'kit' of parts. But even assuming he does just the easy job (not including the evaporator) probably 8 hours labor.

I had a closed system to start with so I didn't do the flushing and didn't have to install the plumbing ... 4 hours work for that. Another 4 or more to pull/clean the evaporator. I've found mouse nests, dead mice and there's always a ton of dirt in there. Sometimes it's easier to just replace the evaporator core than try to get it clean on the air side.

Unfortunately most people who could do a job like that wouldn't guarantee it -- there are likely things that are wrong the first time and must be re-done as with my attempt to just install a tensioner arm and pulley and charge up the system that came on my GS-T ... the compressor had a shaft seal leak so I had to pull the whole thing apart and replace the comp. Do I know that my system works now? Not really -- it holds a charge for a day, but for how much longer I don't know. Is the amount of oil in the system close enough? I donno ... we'll find out.

Lots of people would argue that if you're going to do this job the best way is to hand it to a professional with just the bolts and brackets and let him buy all the fancier parts -- compressor, evaporator, condenser -- new. I've used junk parts for most repairs on most cars I've driven but sometimes junk parts are just junk and that's both more likely and costlier on A/C systems than most other places because there's so much you can't see or easily test until it's all installed.

 

[randizzle420]

This may be your lucky day. I may be the current DSMTuners Expert on installing the A/C compressor in a '95 turbo car having just done it the past two days. ;-) The only issue may be that mine's a GS-T, though I don't see how that would make a difference.

Furthermore I have a complete set of parts handy because I have a parts car and did a mix-and-match that ended with a full set of leftovers. I'll post pictures tomorrow. The only issue I can see is that none of the parts in your pictures really looks just like the ones I was working with today. But that may not be meaningful.

You should be able to find a fourth hole in the block for mounting of the compressor bracket. They're in an 'almost square' pattern; the top passenger end hole is out of sight under the intake manifold.

I'm not sure the bracket in your picture is right but that's the side toward the engine so not the one I spend an hour feeling my way around the last two days. First thing to do is check the part numbers. If you search 'mitsubishi parts' you'll find a bunch of places that have catalogs you can throw a part number at to find out what it's supposed to be for. They are usually right but be sure to read the whole page as the summary is usually incomplete -- there's often a longer list down at the bottom.

I'll study this some tomorrow and try to post real info tomorrow night or next day. What you want to do is perfectly possible -- just a moderately tough driveway job. On the GS-T it can all be done from above -- no axle removal or anything. Took me about two hours to bolt it all in but I already had all the stuff in the way removed from taking out the old one -- figure another hour for that plus one more for general cussedness of doing one of these jobs for the first time.

Edit: This page has the parts info you need.

Condenser, Compressor & Lines for 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse | Mitsubishi Parts Warehouse

www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com

A complication is that the compressor listed is an 'MR' number. These seem to be 'replacement' designs -- not the one originally fitted to the cars, at least not the early cars -- so there could be one or more other numbers that would also work.

All the key parts seem to be the same for GS-T and GSX so your job should be just like mine.

Does this look like the complete set of lines? I have 5 lines total. I feel like I'm missing one possibly

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[waltah]

First of all, thank you! Trying to be sure about those lines I took the picture in my hand and went out and studied my car with a flashlight. Doing that I looked at the A/C plumbing from an angle I hadn't before and saw what looked like dirt trapped by oil on the connections to the evaporator -- you can see these by looking under the battery tray from the passenger side. Sure enough my UV flashlight showed a bright yellow-green glow there -- another leak. So weather permitting, I will fix that (replace the o-rings) tomorrow.

That place gets leaks when someone takes out the evaporator to clean it and does not replace the o-rings when he reinstalls. The Mitsu black o-rings age badly and tend to stick and tear when you pull out a pipe -- I have had it happen at that same joint before in other cars.

You will need to replace all the o-rings as you do your install. Check each for fit before you do the assembly -- it should feel a bit snug because you squash the ring a bit as they seal on the sides. Use a bit of compressor oil on each one as you put it on. O-ring kits often have two of the same internal diameter but different thicknesses and only one of those thicknesses will not leak.

You can get the oil and o-ring kits at auto parts places like Autozone.

I've done the best study of your set of pipes that I can and as near as I can tell, they're the same as on my car. I wish I could be really sure but a two dimensional picture of a three dimensional pipe plus the fact that I can't see all of most of them in the car, some of yours were likely bent a little getting them out, and there could be minor differences from changes in manufacturing procedures -- it's just not a sure thing. But I think they're okay.

If you try the fit of the compressor connections on your compressor you'll see what I mean about 'wrong compressor.' That's the two fittings closest to the hose ends on the two pipes that are partly hose.

There are five pieces of pipe to hook up four system parts -- compressor, condenser, dryer, evaporator -- and two of those pieces connect to each other to form one pipe. You have all the pieces.

Plug up the ends of those pipes to keep them clean. Unless they were just removed from a closed system they should be flushed out with A/C cleaning solvent -- you can get that at the auto parts places too -- and blown out with shop air. Basically you need a high enough air pressure to operate an air wrench -- not a little inflate-your-tire home rig.

The condenser should be cleaned the same way. For that you need to get out both old oil and dirt.

 

[randizzle420]

First of all, thank you! Trying to be sure about those lines I took the picture in my hand and went out and studied my car with a flashlight. Doing that I looked at the A/C plumbing from an angle I hadn't before and saw what looked like dirt trapped by oil on the connections to the evaporator -- you can see these by looking under the battery tray from the passenger side. Sure enough my UV flashlight showed a bright yellow-green glow there -- another leak. So weather permitting, I will fix that (replace the o-rings) tomorrow.

That place gets leaks when someone takes out the evaporator to clean it and does not replace the o-rings when he reinstalls. The Mitsu black o-rings age badly and tend to stick and tear when you pull out a pipe -- I have had it happen at that same joint before in other cars.

You will need to replace all the o-rings as you do your install. Check each for fit before you do the assembly -- it should feel a bit snug because you squash the ring a bit as they seal on the sides. Use a bit of compressor oil on each one as you put it on. O-ring kits often have two of the same internal diameter but different thicknesses and only one of those thicknesses will not leak.

You can get the oil and o-ring kits at auto parts places like Autozone.

I've done the best study of your set of pipes that I can and as near as I can tell, they're the same as on my car. I wish I could be really sure but a two dimensional picture of a three dimensional pipe plus the fact that I can't see all of most of them in the car, some of yours were likely bent a little getting them out, and there could be minor differences from changes in manufacturing procedures -- it's just not a sure thing. But I think they're okay.

If you try the fit of the compressor connections on your compressor you'll see what I mean about 'wrong compressor.' That's the two fittings closest to the hose ends on the two pipes that are partly hose.

There are five pieces of pipe to hook up four system parts -- compressor, condenser, dryer, evaporator -- and two of those pieces connect to each other to form one pipe. You have all the pieces.

Plug up the ends of those pipes to keep them clean. Unless they were just removed from a closed system they should be flushed out with A/C cleaning solvent -- you can get that at the auto parts places too -- and blown out with shop air. Basically you need a high enough air pressure to operate an air wrench -- not a little inflate-your=tire home rig.

The condenser should be cleaned the same way. For that you need to get out both old oil and dirt.

I believe the 2nd line in the picture from the left is the wrong one. I think the rest are correct but I'm missing the line that connects to the evaporator box to the compressor that has the port to fill it with refrigerant. The dude who sold it to me ghosted me after I asked about it =( but I'm looking for another hose. After I find that hose I can start installing the ac hopefully. Right now my car is just rotting cuz I live in the dessert and if you don't have AC then you'll literally die.

 

[randizzle420]

First of all, thank you! Trying to be sure about those lines I took the picture in my hand and went out and studied my car with a flashlight. Doing that I looked at the A/C plumbing from an angle I hadn't before and saw what looked like dirt trapped by oil on the connections to the evaporator -- you can see these by looking under the battery tray from the passenger side. Sure enough my UV flashlight showed a bright yellow-green glow there -- another leak. So weather permitting, I will fix that (replace the o-rings) tomorrow.

That place gets leaks when someone takes out the evaporator to clean it and does not replace the o-rings when he reinstalls. The Mitsu black o-rings age badly and tend to stick and tear when you pull out a pipe -- I have had it happen at that same joint before in other cars.

You will need to replace all the o-rings as you do your install. Check each for fit before you do the assembly -- it should feel a bit snug because you squash the ring a bit as they seal on the sides. Use a bit of compressor oil on each one as you put it on. O-ring kits often have two of the same internal diameter but different thicknesses and only one of those thicknesses will not leak.

You can get the oil and o-ring kits at auto parts places like Autozone.

I've done the best study of your set of pipes that I can and as near as I can tell, they're the same as on my car. I wish I could be really sure but a two dimensional picture of a three dimensional pipe plus the fact that I can't see all of most of them in the car, some of yours were likely bent a little getting them out, and there could be minor differences from changes in manufacturing procedures -- it's just not a sure thing. But I think they're okay.

If you try the fit of the compressor connections on your compressor you'll see what I mean about 'wrong compressor.' That's the two fittings closest to the hose ends on the two pipes that are partly hose.

There are five pieces of pipe to hook up four system parts -- compressor, condenser, dryer, evaporator -- and two of those pieces connect to each other to form one pipe. You have all the pieces.

Plug up the ends of those pipes to keep them clean. Unless they were just removed from a closed system they should be flushed out with A/C cleaning solvent -- you can get that at the auto parts places too -- and blown out with shop air. Basically you need a high enough air pressure to operate an air wrench -- not a little inflate-your=tire home rig.

The condenser should be cleaned the same way. For that you need to get out both old oil and dirt.

I'm trying to figure out if I'm supposed to remove the axle bracket to install the ac bracket on the awd trims. Does the ac bracket act as a spacer??

 

[AWD-Tony]

I'm trying to figure out if I'm supposed to remove the axle bracket to install the ac bracket on the awd trims. Does the ac bracket act as a spacer??

Yes it does for one of the bolts for the carrier. Check to see if there’s a broken bolt there. If left out without using washers to take up the gap, it will snap the bolt.

 

[randizzle420]

Yes it does for one of the bolts for the carrier. Check to see if there’s a broken bolt there. If left out without using washers to take up the gap, it will snap the bolt.

it doesn't look broken. There is a nut inbetween the block and the axle bracket. I'm guessing the nut is acting as a spacer. You guys wouldn't happen to know the bolt sizes and length to bolt down the AC bracket to the block? I also need bolt sizes to bolt the compressor to the AC bracket, and the two bolt sizes to bolt down the AC tensioner to the AC bracket? I tried to look on parts websites but yeah it doesn't tell me anything about bolts

 

[AWD-Tony]

Can’t find it for some reason. This is the 1g version but there’s a 2g version

1G - What Size is that Bolt, Nut, Stud, Fastener? (1G version)

Many of us are aware of the fantastic You must be registered to see element. article that delicately details and catalogs many of the fasteners, nuts, bolts, etc., used in a 2G FWD vehicle. While most of those can be assumed to fit a 2G AWD without much of a hiccup, it is a bit of a leap to...

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[randizzle420]

Can’t find it for some reason. This is the 1g version but there’s a 2g version

1G - What Size is that Bolt, Nut, Stud, Fastener? (1G version)

Many of us are aware of the fantastic You must be registered to see element. article that delicately details and catalogs many of the fasteners, nuts, bolts, etc., used in a 2G FWD vehicle. While most of those can be assumed to fit a 2G AWD without much of a hiccup, it is a bit of a leap to...

www.dsmtuners.com

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-size-is-that-bolt-screw-fastener.304059/

Found it. Only issue I have is it says there's only 3 bolts for the AC tensioner when there is 4. The one for the pulley, two that bolt the tensioner into the bracket, then there is one bolt at the very top that is a long bolt. I have the long bolt at the top of the tensioner. I'm wondering if you know if the two bolts that bolt the tensioner into the AC bracket are two different lengths or the same length? On the guide it says that the length of one is 20 mm and the other is 25 mm. I'm wondering if they just forgot to include the top bolt? Also on the evaporator inlet do you know what the two bolt sizes are that connect the two AC lines to it? The bolts connect the same way like on the compressor but the bolt sizes are different. Atleast on the high lines they use a smaller bolt than the two bolts on the compressor ac lines

 

[waltah]

I believe the 2nd line in the picture from the left is the wrong one. I think the rest are correct but I'm missing the line that connects to the evaporator box to the compressor that has the port to fill it with refrigerant.

If there's no suction service fitting then that's not the correct hose. I thought it was hidden by the angle at which the picture was taken.

EBay has suction hoses by the dozen that claim to be for 95 Eclipse but I didn't see the right one -- MB899043 -- with the suction service fitting at the compressor connection. What they have either has no fitting or one in the middle of the hose where it would be completely un-reachable on our cars.

The last diagram on the page here is correct for our cars:

Condenser, Compressor & Lines for 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse | Mitsubishi Parts Warehouse

www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com

There are Mitsu compressors with the service fitting on the compressor. I've got 4g64 cars that have them so it could be that the 96 Spyder (with 4g64) uses the hose you got. The hose with the service fitting in the center might be for non-turbo (420a) Eclipse.

Locating the service fitting at the compressor on our cars is a poor design choice -- it's way down in there, not easy to reach and you're closer to the belt than is wise -- turn that engine off before hooking/unhooking. Because the 420a engine is turned around the suction hose is in a much better place.

I'm trying to figure out if I'm supposed to remove the axle bracket to install the ac bracket on the awd trims. Does the ac bracket act as a spacer??

The shop manual doesn't mention the axle bracket at all. The procedure for remove/replace A/C compressor is just remove stuff that's in the way from above, unhook the electrical and refrigerant connectors, unbolt the compressor, and remove the compressor bracket. Usually they tell you if there's something else that has to be done first.

The compressor bracket goes on the engine: Does the axle bracket also go there?

 

[waltah]

Found it. Only issue I have is it says there's only 3 bolts for the AC tensioner when there is 4. The one for the pulley, two that bolt the tensioner into the bracket, then there is one bolt at the very top that is a long bolt. I have the long bolt at the top of the tensioner. I'm wondering if you know if the two bolts that bolt the tensioner into the AC bracket are two different lengths or the same length? On the guide it says that the length of one is 20 mm and the other is 25 mm. I'm wondering if they just forgot to include the top bolt? Also on the evaporator inlet do you know what the two bolt sizes are that connect the two AC lines to it?

I think they count the pulley bolt as part of the tensioner assembly. I'll check the lengths of all those bolts tomorrow provided the weather clears so I can unhook the suction line at the evaporator to replace the o-rings.

 

[randizzle420]

I think they count the pulley bolt as part of the tensioner assembly. I'll check the lengths of all those bolts tomorrow provided the weather clears so I can unhook the suction line at the evaporator to replace the o-rings.

Thanks. I just ordered the suction line (the one I'm missing) from performance part out. Looks like I'll have everything. The only thing I gotta buy is the condensor and dryer but I can buy those new. I'll probably end up installing everything including putting new orings on then ask an AC shop to fill it or do whatever to get it working.

 

[waltah]

Thanks. I just ordered the suction line (the one I'm missing) from performance part out. Looks like I'll have everything. The only thing I gotta buy is the condensor and dryer but I can buy those new. I'll probably end up installing everything including putting new orings on then ask an AC shop to fill it or do whatever to get it working.

Sounds like a good plan.

While you're waiting for parts I would consider removing and cleaning the evaporator. It must blow strongly which is unlikely with 27 years of dirt. This is a bit of work -- several hours to remove, disassemble, clean, and reinstall -- but will definitely pay off in better performance and right now you don't have to recharge the system after it's done.

Because the various controls -- thermistors and expansion valve -- regulate the evaporator temperature (if it gets too cold it will freeze up and you have no cooling) the more air you blow over it, the more cooling it's capable of delivering. Air cut in half by dirt, only half the size A/C unit in your car ...

Said another way, if less air is flowing, the controls will reduce the amount of refrigerant that's supplied and boiled away to cool things.

Without exception on my five DSMs I've started the evaporator cleaning process with a shop vac. Well ... except when I started by scooping out a dead mouse. Those things get filthy.

Also you'll be able to inspect the blower. I found one with the plastic wheel half eaten -- by mice, I assume -- and they too can be dirty enough to reduce air flow. Pine needles, bits of leaves ...

An A/C shop would probably be happy to do all this but the price is pretty steep -- several hours of their labor.

The instructions for remove/disassemble are in the shop manual that's downloadable on DSMT. Take it out, open the box up, take out the core, and clean. Just notice (or better yet, take pictures) of where the various sensors and wires go as you disassemble the thing. There are A/C coil spray-on cleaning solutions that'll help -- Lowes and similar places have those -- or you can get them online. Then I use a pressure washer very gently (so as not to bend the fins) to wash the coil from both sides. Or -- if it's badly clogged and/or corroded, replace the core with a new one.

Any sign of oil in there is likely to mean a refrigerant leak.

Taking out the evaporator will let you check on the drain hose. If it clogs up then you'll get water standing in the evaporator box. This will cause a musty smell, will very likely mean condensation on the outside of the box which will drip on the passenger side floorboards, and may get to the point where you actually get a leak.

The drain nipple on the back of the box is usually where the clog forms but the hose itself can also have problems.

Be sure the refrigerant connections are well plugged when you wash the thing. Water in an A/C system is a real problem: At best it fills up your dryer, if the dryer doesn't handle it you get 'comes on cold but then blows warm air' (expansion valve freezes up inside) and possibly corrosion.

Good luck with it and keep us informed. I'll post some bolt lengths in a day or so

 

[randizzle420]

Sounds like a good plan.

While you're waiting for parts I would consider removing and cleaning the evaporator. It must blow strongly which is unlikely with 27 years of dirt. This is a bit of work -- several hours to remove, disassemble, clean, and reinstall -- but will definitely pay off in better performance and right now you don't have to recharge the system after it's done.

Because the various controls -- thermistors and expansion valve -- regulate the evaporator temperature (if it gets too cold it will freeze up and you have no cooling) the more air you blow over it, the more cooling it's capable of delivering. Air cut in half by dirt, only half the size A/C unit in your car ...

Said another way, if less air is flowing, the controls will reduce the amount of refrigerant that's supplied and boiled away to cool things.

Without exception on my five DSMs I've started the evaporator cleaning process with a shop vac. Well ... except when I started by scooping out a dead mouse. Those things get filthy.

Also you'll be able to inspect the blower. I found one with the plastic wheel half eaten -- by mice, I assume -- and they too can be dirty enough to reduce air flow. Pine needles, bits of leaves ...

An A/C shop would probably be happy to do all this but the price is pretty steep -- several hours of their labor.

The instructions for remove/disassemble are in the shop manual that's downloadable on DSMT. Take it out, open the box up, take out the core, and clean. Just notice (or better yet, take pictures) of where the various sensors and wires go as you disassemble the thing. There are A/C coil spray-on cleaning solutions that'll help -- Lowes and similar places have those -- or you can get them online. Then I use a pressure washer very gently (so as not to bend the fins) to wash the coil from both sides. Or -- if it's badly clogged and/or corroded, replace the core with a new one.

Any sign of oil in there is likely to mean a refrigerant leak.

Taking out the evaporator will let you check on the drain hose. If it clogs up then you'll get water standing in the evaporator box. This will cause a musty smell, will very likely mean condensation on the outside of the box which will drip on the passenger side floorboards, and may get to the point where you actually get a leak.

The drain nipple on the back of the box is usually where the clog forms but the hose itself can also have problems.

Be sure the refrigerant connections are well plugged when you wash the thing. Water in an A/C system is a real problem: At best it fills up your dryer, if the dryer doesn't handle it you get 'comes on cold but then blows warm air' (expansion valve freezes up inside) and possibly corrosion.

Good luck with it and keep us informed. I'll post some bolt lengths in a day or so

Thanks I'll get to it when I can. My car runs and drives but AC is crucial here cuz I live in the dessert. You will literally die without AC no cap. After AC is done I'm going to get the car wrapped. Possibly wrapped chrome. I should probably make a build page on it

 

[randizzle420]

Sounds like a good plan.

While you're waiting for parts I would consider removing and cleaning the evaporator. It must blow strongly which is unlikely with 27 years of dirt. This is a bit of work -- several hours to remove, disassemble, clean, and reinstall -- but will definitely pay off in better performance and right now you don't have to recharge the system after it's done.

Because the various controls -- thermistors and expansion valve -- regulate the evaporator temperature (if it gets too cold it will freeze up and you have no cooling) the more air you blow over it, the more cooling it's capable of delivering. Air cut in half by dirt, only half the size A/C unit in your car ...

Said another way, if less air is flowing, the controls will reduce the amount of refrigerant that's supplied and boiled away to cool things.

Without exception on my five DSMs I've started the evaporator cleaning process with a shop vac. Well ... except when I started by scooping out a dead mouse. Those things get filthy.

Also you'll be able to inspect the blower. I found one with the plastic wheel half eaten -- by mice, I assume -- and they too can be dirty enough to reduce air flow. Pine needles, bits of leaves ...

An A/C shop would probably be happy to do all this but the price is pretty steep -- several hours of their labor.

The instructions for remove/disassemble are in the shop manual that's downloadable on DSMT. Take it out, open the box up, take out the core, and clean. Just notice (or better yet, take pictures) of where the various sensors and wires go as you disassemble the thing. There are A/C coil spray-on cleaning solutions that'll help -- Lowes and similar places have those -- or you can get them online. Then I use a pressure washer very gently (so as not to bend the fins) to wash the coil from both sides. Or -- if it's badly clogged and/or corroded, replace the core with a new one.

Any sign of oil in there is likely to mean a refrigerant leak.

Taking out the evaporator will let you check on the drain hose. If it clogs up then you'll get water standing in the evaporator box. This will cause a musty smell, will very likely mean condensation on the outside of the box which will drip on the passenger side floorboards, and may get to the point where you actually get a leak.

The drain nipple on the back of the box is usually where the clog forms but the hose itself can also have problems.

Be sure the refrigerant connections are well plugged when you wash the thing. Water in an A/C system is a real problem: At best it fills up your dryer, if the dryer doesn't handle it you get 'comes on cold but then blows warm air' (expansion valve freezes up inside) and possibly corrosion.

Good luck with it and keep us informed. I'll post some bolt lengths in a day or so

ever figure out those bolt lengths for the two bolts that attach the AC tensioner to the AC bracket?