BogusSVO
10+ Year Contributor
- 5,891
- 318
- Jul 1, 2009
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Pensacola,
Florida
What Happens to a head in a machine shop
First Not all shops have the same equipment and the procedures from one shop to the next can and will differ.
Some shops cater to domestics and others imports or even diesels.
Some shops will view everything as a "stock" rebuilds.
So....
The most important thing to know is the shop you use and the equipment they will use.
The subject head is a Mitsubishi 4G63 7 Bolt
The first thing that should happen is the machinist looks at the head. Checking for the obvious damage, broken bolts, stripped bolt holes, bent valves, ect.
At this point it is up to you as the customer, inform the shop what you want done, such as...
1) Pressure test for cracks
2) Valve job
3) Surface
4) Guide work
5) Any performance work wanted
Also now is the time to speak about who will provide what parts, valves, seals, guides, springs, ect.
Now the shop should be able to give you, the customer, an approximate estimate of what the parts and labor will cost.
You as the customer have the choice to agree, or go somewhere else.
Now that your head is at the machine shop, and you have agreed to have the work done.
The first thing to happen is the head will be disassembled.
The tools needed are
Wire basket for small parts springs, valves, ect
Small container for valve locks
Valve lock release tool (socket method)
Hammer
10mm socket
12mm socket
12mm socket
Ratchet
5.5mm allen bit socket or wrench
Pocket magnet
Long reach needle nose pliers w/45* bend
Impact gun (not pictured)
Cam gears come off first, use impact with the 17mm socket
Next remove the cam tower caps, use impact or ratchet w/12mm socket.
Start at the ends working towards the center
Once the cam caps are removed, lift the cams out.
Next lift the roller followers out
Now you can remove the HLA's
Now remove the oil spliter
Now remove any other small bolts
This is a "heat tab" Most machine shops use them.
The center will slide down at 240-250* and totally dissolve at 260*
Next is to remove the valve train.
Yes the same method that a lot of DIY people use are used in a machine shop.
Use a basket and a paint cap, have a pocket magnet handy too.
Have your "tool" and hammer ready to go
Place the tool on the spring retainer and give it a firm whack.
The locks will stay in the tool and release the retainer and spring.
Place the retainers and spring in the basket
Fish the valve locks out of the head casting with the pocket magnet.
Place the valve locks in the paint can cap.
Now remove the spring seats with the pocket magnet and place in the spring basket to be cleaned.
First Not all shops have the same equipment and the procedures from one shop to the next can and will differ.
Some shops cater to domestics and others imports or even diesels.
Some shops will view everything as a "stock" rebuilds.
So....
The most important thing to know is the shop you use and the equipment they will use.
The subject head is a Mitsubishi 4G63 7 Bolt
The first thing that should happen is the machinist looks at the head. Checking for the obvious damage, broken bolts, stripped bolt holes, bent valves, ect.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
At this point it is up to you as the customer, inform the shop what you want done, such as...
1) Pressure test for cracks
2) Valve job
3) Surface
4) Guide work
5) Any performance work wanted
Also now is the time to speak about who will provide what parts, valves, seals, guides, springs, ect.
Now the shop should be able to give you, the customer, an approximate estimate of what the parts and labor will cost.
You as the customer have the choice to agree, or go somewhere else.
Now that your head is at the machine shop, and you have agreed to have the work done.
The first thing to happen is the head will be disassembled.
The tools needed are
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Wire basket for small parts springs, valves, ect
Small container for valve locks
Valve lock release tool (socket method)
Hammer
10mm socket
12mm socket
12mm socket
Ratchet
5.5mm allen bit socket or wrench
Pocket magnet
Long reach needle nose pliers w/45* bend
Impact gun (not pictured)
Cam gears come off first, use impact with the 17mm socket
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Next remove the cam tower caps, use impact or ratchet w/12mm socket.
Start at the ends working towards the center
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Once the cam caps are removed, lift the cams out.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Next lift the roller followers out
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now you can remove the HLA's
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now remove the oil spliter
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now remove any other small bolts
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This is a "heat tab" Most machine shops use them.
The center will slide down at 240-250* and totally dissolve at 260*
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Next is to remove the valve train.
Yes the same method that a lot of DIY people use are used in a machine shop.
Use a basket and a paint cap, have a pocket magnet handy too.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Have your "tool" and hammer ready to go
Place the tool on the spring retainer and give it a firm whack.
The locks will stay in the tool and release the retainer and spring.
Place the retainers and spring in the basket
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Fish the valve locks out of the head casting with the pocket magnet.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Place the valve locks in the paint can cap.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now remove the spring seats with the pocket magnet and place in the spring basket to be cleaned.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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