How to check for crank/piston/rod damage when motor is out?

[Night devil]

Hey guys, just curious about some things here. My buddy have 2 shortblocks in his garage, and he wants to know if theres any damage on any of them before he drops one of them in his car. The blocks are both 7 bolt.
For the first shortblock, it spins very easy, like mint. We pushed down all pistons and no play, so no worries about the rod knock. But, if we push the crankshaft in and out, it plays a bit. I know it should play a bit, but is there any hints, any tool to check if this is a normal play?
For the second block, and I do not know why its only on the second piston (have been seeing this problem twice within a week), If we push down the piston, it plays like there's no bearing . Just for my knowledge is there a way it can be fixed, or have to go to the machine shop, clean the crankshaft and rods and get new sets of rod and main bearings?
Thanks for all of your help guys

I read somewhere it has to be between 0.02 to 0.07, does anyone know a name of the tool or a link for it?

 

[Dsmkauai]

Check this link out for some answers
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/450429-bogussvo-how-links-other-info.html

 

[BogusSVO]

To check for crankshaft endplay you need a magnetic base and a dial indicator max spec is .0098 (.010 for easy math)

If you have a rod that feels like there is no bearing, that is a spun rod, and a good chance it is black/burnt the rod. depending on how bad the rod spun the crank may be able to be ground.

 

[Night devil]

Check this link out for some answers
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/450429-bogussvo-how-links-other-info.html

Thank you for link. Learned things did not know about.

To check for crankshaft endplay you need a magnetic base and a dial indicator max spec is .0098 (.010 for easy math)

If you have a rod that feels like there is no bearing, that is a spun rod, and a good chance it is black/burnt the rod. depending on how bad the rod spun the crank may be able to be ground.

Thank you, just couple things I need to know before I start working on this.
1) is there a brand name you advice me to use? Or any will do the job?
2) should I put the pin for the tool on the crankshaft on the timing side? And push the flywheel in, to see where it stops?
3) what should be the readings between to know the results?
Looked on youtube getting a good idea on how to use it.
And for the spun rod, yes it is , but just curious why the second piston. This is the second time i seen spun rod in the second piston only within a week.
4) what do you advice me to do for the spun rod block?
Thanks for the help

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

I spun a bearing, then I popped open the oil pump and where the gears are at it is completely trashed. If a turbo was mounted on that engine it is most likely contaminated. I've gone through this motor twice and now I'm replacing EVERYTHING. I got new pump, rebuilding the turbo, new oil lines just to be safe, trying to figure out if cleaning the lifters will be enough or not risk it and replace them as well. Sucks, but got to do what you got to do.

 

[Dsmkauai]

^^ what are you taking about bro?? What does that have to do with the o.p. question? Thread jacker make your own dude!! Oh I kinda see your explaining what happen to you before. Man you guys need to learn to type better. I'm on a stinking iPhone and can write clear sentences, so not sure what the excuse is.

 

[Night devil]

I spun a bearing, the I popped open the oil pump and where the gears are at it is completely trashed, If a turbo was mounted on that engine it is most likely its contaminated. I've gone through my motor twice and now I'm replacing EVERYTHING, got new pump, rebuilding turbo, new oil lines just to be safe, trying to figure out if cleaning the lifters will be enough or not risk it and replace them as well. Sucks, but got to do what you got to do.

The problem is that his motor was rebuilt 35k miles ago. Everything was running smooth and amazing, till the day where he changed the turbo. Three days after, kind of weird incident but, we took out the motor to change the clutch and water pump. It's alot easier for us when the motor is out of the car. Changed waterpump and clutch and dropped it back in. Started the car,and loud knock. We did not hear any of that noise before. Tool oil pan and spark plugs off. Saw little metal in oil pan. Turned crankshaff and second piston only drops down. When I do my builds I honestly change everything.

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

The problem is that his motor was rebuilt 35k miles ago. Everything was running smooth and amazing, till the day where he changed the turbo. Three days after, kind of weird incident but, we took out the motor to change the clutch and water pump. It's alot easier for us when the motor is out of the car. Changed waterpump and clutch and dropped it back in. Started the car,and loud knock. We did not hear any of that noise before. Tool oil pan and spark plugs off. Saw little metal in oil pan. Turned crankshaff and second piston only drops down. When I do my builds I honestly change everything.

This was on the second motor he has? Was the turbo new or used? Like I said either replace or clean everything as best as you can, makes sure the rod isn't out of round.

@Dsmkauai, My bad it was late, and I guess I was more tired than I thought. At least he understood what I was saying and my post contributed to the O.P. I fixed it a little. I accidently put 'the' instead of "then" and I had an extra "its". Oh well.

 

[BogusSVO]

For doing a endplay check, a cheap one will do, fo as often as you will use it.

Yes, the dial indicator tip will be on the front of the crank, then with a pry bar shove the crank back towards the flywheel, then zero the indicator, then shove the crank towards the front of the engine.

You want .003 or more, but less than .010

The spun bearing block needs to be fully disassembled, and cleaned out perfectly.

 

[Night devil]

Gotcha, thank you so much. Been very helpful

This was on the second motor he has? Was the turbo new or used? Like I said either replace or clean everything as best as you can, makes sure the rod isn't out of round.

@Dsmkauai, My bad it was late, and I guess I was more tired than I thought. At least he understood what I was saying and my post contributed to the O.P. I fixed it a little. I accidently put 'the' instead of "then" and I had an extra "its". Oh well.

Yes, that was the second motor he had. It was running amazing till like 3 days after he changed the turbo. The water pump started to leak and clutch was bad. Therefore, we took out the motor to fix the leak and change clutch. We put back the motor, started the car and damn loud knock was and hardley kept the car running and idled so bad. Checked compression was good on all. Thought of a retainer slipped off. Took the valvecover off, everything was in place. Took oil pan off saw little chip metals. Then, took out all sparkplugs push down on pistons, only piston 2 droped down. So most likely as you said before, the turbo could be contaminated. Its just weird it happened right after we put the motor back in. Where it was not doing that when we took the motor out. We did not take anything off other than timing and changed the clutch. Took the motor out, piston 2 was playing in and out bad. Took the head to machine shop, its still great, so timing was good not even a tooth off. Plus I don't think timing problems would do that. Unless im wrong.