How many negative cables?

[v8s_are_slow]

Have a 98 GS-T and it's been awhile since I've messed with 2g's. I've only found one so far but is there one or two negative cables? My battery light is on and the battery and alternator have been tested and both check out good. Was hoping maybe it was something as simple as a cable not being hooked up. I dunno. Any help appreciated.

 

[95redturboawd]

Yeah there are two. I've been having trouble with my battery too. I think part of the problem was that the clamps on the posts of the battery were not tight enough. Is your battery dying after you let the car sit for a while?

 

[snowborder714]

One ground goes to the top starter bolt and the other to the body right behind the negative terminal.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Well, there's nothing on the body. Kinda figured there should be something there. But there's not. The other wire goes to the harness but can't remember if anything is going to the starter or not. I'll have to look when I have the time. Hoping the previous owner didn't screw something up since he was obviously an idiot. He replaced the 10 amp fuses with 30 amp fuses for the radio and the gauge cluster. The lights don't work on the cluster, the radio doesn't work, and the headlights don't go off when I turn them off unless I pull the fuse under the hood. Crossing my fingers that he didn't totally screw something up in there.

 

[DSM1G90]

(I've heard and seen) that if you have more connecting points for the negative cable (like one 4gauge cable on each strut bolt, connection to the transmission, frame of the ALT, et.al.) - just spread that negative connection around, you'll get tonnage better of even power to the system than just the two points.

I've got 3 connections: body, transmission, and INT manifold...and should add more.

replaced the 10 amp fuses with 30 amp fuses

...brother! Asking for a car fire right there ... what a moron-he doesn't deserve to own a vehicle. Just do your best in getting the electrical back to stock so you won't go up in flames.

-DSM

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Yeah man, I'm scrambling right now cause on the 20th, it'll be my only mode of transportation and I work a butt load of hours. Yay. Sure there's other fuses that are too big as well. I'm definitely doing some work to this car.

 

[dustinmp3]

a ground strap can cause that as well check and make sure all cables are tight and that their is no broken cables or half broken wires.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Well, posted this on my local forum but figured it needed to go here as well. I appreciate the help guys and the comment about the cables made me think to look at them which I believe is gonna be my major problem. Anyway, here's what I posted on my local forum...

Okay, I don't know anything else to say about the previous owner of my car other than to say he's a dumbass. Complete and total IDIOT!!! I swear I'm so sick and tired of getting cars that have terrible work done to them. This car is no exception. I mean the guy has painted the freakin calipers yellow (my car is green) and didn't even bother to tape anything off. Sprayed the calipers, the rotors, studs, etc. I'm gonna have to change out the calipers and rotors eventually cause it looks like ass.

Then, there's the 3 gauge pillar with cheap ass gauges and the guy couldn't even hook them up. Just bundled up the wires and left them dangling. Wait, he did hook up the ground wire. Glad he had the stock pillar in the back. I pulled the pillar and gauges out and replaced it with the stock pillar until I can get something that actually looks good to replace it with.

The moron put some aftermarket tweaters in the doors where the triangle plastic piece goes that covers the bolts for the rear view mirrors. They're not even fastened down so they just dangle there and if I don't watch it, I'll close the door and they get caught between the door and the dash. So gonna have to yank them out before they damage something.

The radio and gauge cluster lights don't work. Go figure that there's 30 amp fuses in the place of the 10 amp fuses so hoping nothing is fried.

And to top it off, the battery light had been flickering and I was trying to figure out the cause. Tested the battery, it was good. Mike hooked me up with an alternator so I swapped it out, and then the battery light came on and was solid. Took that alternator and the one that was originally on the car and had them tested. Both were good. So what was causing the issue??? Well, this moron decided to replace the "top post" battery that comes stock in these cars with a "side post" battery and had to change out the terminals. And this is what I found...

Never really looked at the wiring. Just assumed he did the job properly so didn't give it a second thought. What was I thinking? Look at the awesome "clear" electrical tape he has on there!!!

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Wait a minute, he didn't even crimp the connectors. He just twisted up the wires, shoved them in the connectors, and then put tape around everything so it wasn't even tight and this live wire was barely even in there.

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Upon further inspection, after cutting away the REAL electrical tape around the harness (funny how he can use electrical tape around this part though), this is what I found. Cut the 4 power wires, spliced them into 2 wires, which all he did was twist the wires and that was it, and then twisted the 2 wires into one as you see in the previous picture.

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Can't believe there's people out there that are literally this f'ing stupid that work on cars. Hope there's nothing else that I find. And hope this fixes my problem once I correct the issue. Hoping the car will be up and running soon. Just pissed off at the previous owner and had to vent some. Enjoy.

 

[snowborder714]

WOW!!

Well, at least you found that out before something major happened.

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

Don't feel bad the previous owner of my car took a completely stock 99 gsx with only 60k on the chassis, and ripped it apart b/c he was planning on Twin turboing it.....When I got the car the fenders hood front bumper were all off...driveshaft off...Both axles cut...sway bar end links cut....All 4 calipers painted a blue....the entire engine/chassis harness was taken out of the car...

Wiring was a nightmare....There were like 5 switches tied into everything....where were red boat lights behind the rear tires....and blue lights behind the rear bumper....all the fuses were pulled...those 4 white wires were cut...(2 go to the alt fuse and 2 go to the main fuse box...btw)

The crank was sold from the motor, sold the exhaust, and entire intake system...I've been fixing the previous owners mistakes and I finally got mine running at least...still got a few dumb wires to mess with (got a battery drain...)but at least it moves under its own power...

 

[Achelea]

I was always taught that the fuses are there to protect the wiring. Mostly cause it's easy to replace fuses and equipment, but a PITA to replace wire.

I'm glad my car wasn't THAT Ghetto rigged. Only thing I found was Zipties holding the air filter can over the filter.

On that note, I've had to create my own ghetto rigging. Ever have a bolt that is too long and you need something thick to act as a washer til you get a shorter bolt?

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Well, I went up to my parent's today and yanked some parts off the parts car. The gauge cluster and cut off the harness under the hood so that I'd have the stock wiring to be able to solder back onto the wires that the dumbass cut as well as have extra fuses. Also used the cutting torch to cut the bolts out of the frame that I needed for the awd swap (dang, was it hot outside with the addition of flames). Also grabbed the calipers and rotors so that I can eventually get rid of the crappy looking yellow ones. Hope to have it running this week and knock out all the major problems on this car. Sure am glad I have a parts car laying around. Although now there's nothing left that's of any use. I stripped the hell out of that car.