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How easy is a Clutch job?

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Itzallstock

15+ Year Contributor
244
1
May 19, 2004
Millbrook, Illinois
I have 105,000 on the original clutch. It now slips when i try and accel more. Rpm's increase ground speed does not. I have done clutch's in ford pick up and and in ford explorers. They have all been rear wheel drive. Will I have what i takes to do a clutch job on my laser? Has anybody actally done this hand on? I am thinking of taking on the project. Would it be wise to replace my rusted out flex pip down there too?
Thanks
Ben
 
If you have done it on other vehicles it wont be bad at all. Just find a faq on the internet to walk you thru it, makes it real easy. I would say the hardest part for me was lifting the tranny up and putting it back into place, (i couldn't pick it up so I had my friend pick it up off the floor for me and slide it back on). The flex pipe... well I wouldn't worry about it if you are planning on installing exhaust later down the road.
 
yeah, its not too difficult but it would be wise to get a friend or someone to help you...they are a bi*** to lift back up and slide on
 
DevilSperm said:
yeah, its not too difficult but it would be wise to get a friend or someone to help you...they are a bi*** to lift back up and slide on

Agreed. I did mine in two days with the help of my father. I almost replaced my brothers clutch as well. He has the 1.8 N/T. It was MUCH easier than mine (being AWD and all). If you've done clutches before, it should be a breeze.
 
I accepted the feat. I have the wheel off and the hub nut. Thanks to a donation from a IR Impact wrench that is the biggest I have ever seen! Anyway, i have the steering linkage off and I cannot get the spline of the shaft off the wheel assym. I pull it and it goes almost all the way out but then shoots forward again. The rubber boot seal is acting like a spring. Should i be placing a big socket around the threads and hitting the ring part of the bearing behind it? My manual is for shiz. I have the rotor and cailper off as well....
Thanks
-Ben
 
Have you unbolted the shock mounting from the lower control arm? If not, that helps alot. And also I would sugest doing the passengers side first, becuase the drivers will not come out first for some reason. Any other Q's?
 
Ok, here is where i stand now. I have the speed cabke off, the shifter cable brackets off, the starter off, the 2 drive shafts away from the hub. I am ready to un bolt the trans. Few things...... Do i need to remove the big plastic trim piece so that I can slide the trans out? How do i remove the shafts from the tranny? I have the wheel ends done on both sides but cant get them out of the tranny.....................THANKS!!!!
_BEN :thumb:
 
you will have to pull that plastic shroud out of the way at very least, removong it would be alot less headaches, comes off easy

as for the axles, sometimes they sieze themselves on and are really a pain to get off. use a pry bar, if you dont have one then go buy a craftsmen set. i say that because we have bent brand new pry bars before trying to get an axel out of the trans. my 93 was that way, with alot of rust, bent a pry bar getting one axel out.
hell, my buddy snapped one axel shaft off inside the trans, and bent the splines of the other so badly we had to take the axel appart, and the trans out, to get enough leverage with the bar to get it out. but eventually, it will come out.
if its seized on really bad, you can get the trans out with the axels in, if you disassemble then at the joint closest to the trans, but its far from the easist way to get the trans out. but this would require to you rebuild, or replace the axels. rebuilding isnt hard, just need to buy new boots.
but working it out with a pry bar should do the trick. i have seen alot of the problems you encouter doing this, since my buddy goes through driveline parts like they are free on his fwd tsi. we have had the trans out of it close to a dozen times in the last 15 months, FYI for next time, you can leave the brakes completly assembled and on the car. unbolt the shock from the lower control arm, and unbolt the upper arm so the wheel assembly can be moved around, then move it to one side, and just pull the axel from the hub. saves alot of time that way
 
Thanks guys. All went well. BUT the clutch wont disengage. I am sure i need a longer rod. I did not take any hyd, hoses off. The plate was a differnt pitch then the stock one i pulled. Where can i get a bigger rod?????? :thumb:
 
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