Hopes and Dreams for 10's

[dsmchiz]

This is my list of parts that I am thinking about purchasing starting next spring / summer.

My Dream in the next couple years:

Top Secret NRS Spec 2.1L longblock (SBR)
AEM EMS
COIL ON PLUG (If needed)
SBR GT35r
950 cc fuel Injectors
Snow Performance boost cooler kit
Cast Exhaust Manifold (7cm gasket) w/ tial wastgate
SBR Heat Shield
SBR 1 gen race front mount intercooler kit (3 in pipe)
Axles (Drive Shaft Shop)
Drive shaft (Drive Shaft Shop)
Clutch (exedy or act)
Flywheel (same as clutch)
Suspension of some sort
Stage 4 Shep Trans
Brake rotors and pads

I already have:

Maf translator 3" Mas Air Sensor
50mm tial bov,
3" Bud's custom "turbo-back" Exhaust
Wallbero 255
Denso Radiator with 2 12" fans
Magnus Manifold w/ velocity stacks
Aeromative Fuel Pressure Regulator

I have already ran a 12.78 with a 1.67 60' before the magnus manifold and fuel pressure regulator. I want to be able to run tens and dyno at least 650 awhp. I know its big goals and big dreams (many people want these numbers) but I have had my dsm for 5 years and now i think its time to start my full upgrade, my car has 160,000 miles on it and its starting to break a little (thats an understatement) . It may take me awhile to do this but if i am going to do it i want to do it right (even if its one peice at a time).

I want a consistent car that will be reliable, basically meaning i dont want to spend all this cash and then break it within the first couple runs. I want to be able to bracket race and every now and then race in some of the king of street competitions we have here in northern texas. I have been bracket racing since i got the car 5 yrs ago but have not had the power to compete in the King of Street.

What am i missing from the list above? I have been looking at several long blocks and I know some dont think that the 2.1 liter is the way to go to reach my goals.

What is your opinions? I have been reading a couple threads about this block and it seems kinda fifty fifty on if i should do this or go with a different stroker.

I have some time before i get the money i need for this, but i want to have my ducks in a row (cause it is a big investment).

Am I going over board to reach my goals?

Is there a less expensive way to achieve this goal and still be reliable?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
I know you guys get questions like this all the time but i have done quite a bit of research and finally decided what i think would be a good set up (but i could be way way off)
Thanks again
Chad

 

[SBstar]

hmm suggestions
Forget the SBR35R and go with a full Garrett setup with tubular manifold. Just stick with the 2.0 and have it built, Buschur is my favorite and Magnus builds good motors, I'd stay away from SBR you can do your own searching as to why. So I suggest a Buschur Stage 3 and a real GT35R turbo.

 

[Ultimatedsm]

Huge TURBO, HUGE Fuel supply, Lots of tuning, super beefed out drivetrain and a deep pocket for all the parts you will be breaking. Your parts you have listed can get you into the 10's, but your driving skill might get you into the 12's.

 

[JayRolla]

Go with a FP turbo

 

[brute]

Get either full Garrett turbo and a T3 or T4 manifold to match or get a Forced Performance turbo. And I'd suggest just getting forged internals on the 2.0L or go full stroker. I'm still pretty weary about the 2.1L. And I don't think you should buy the upgraded axles and driveshaft until you need them. You'd just be spending money for no reason at that point. Make sure you keep a lot of money on the side because stuff is going to break a lot. It's not if, stuff is definitely going to break.

 

[chicagoavenger]

Okay so you want to hit 10's first you need a to get a rebuilt racing engine and beef up all the internals, then get a bigger turbo probably 20g or something bigger or maybe the t28 if you want to be more stealth. Then you would need to get a big FMIC, make sure your car can breath and you know the rest if you read tech guide. O ya if you want to even hit 10's you have to have fuel management and some sort of system like DSMlink. Good luck

Don't listen to this guy a T-28 to run 10's? You gotta be kidding a rebuilt racing engine who wants a used rebuilt motor or did you mean a built motor for racing?

 

[fourreGsixty3]

www.turbobygarrett.com, get a true garrett GT35R ball bearing turbo.
I would get a tubular exhast manifold with a flange to match the turbos flange. As for the WG, 38mm, or 44mm, Tail will be good, 44mm, is probably more for you if you will be racing it more then a couple times per month. If you dont want a tubulat get a cast manifold from SBR that will have a flange to bolt the 35R up to, but get something with higher then stock flow capabilities. Also either wrap the manifold, or put a heat shield on it if the manifold allows for it.

As far as your engine, it all depends on what you want, do you want a high reving motor? If so go with a fully built 2.0, and upgrade the valvetrain if you will be shifting past 7500rpm(stock can valvetrain can do 7500 all day, but past that and your playing a time game as to when something will go), if you want a more TQ then go with a 2.3 or 2.4 set-up, but with the 2.3, and 2.4 itrs not advised to rev it past stock because of wear on the cyl. walls, not sure about the 2.1L with reving capabilities becaused it is a relitively new strocker to come out.
As for the clutch I would go with an ACT 2900, more TQ holding then the 2600, and same pedal pressure as the 2100. Jake (evil_eagle) had or still has this clutch, and he has 600+hp.
Get the coil on plug set-up, it gives better voltage to the plugs for better spark. A shep stage 4 or TRE full race trans, both are great.
Go meth injection so you can be running higher octane gas daily will still fulling up at the local 7/11.

Dont expect 10s or 650awhp, these are very high goals, go look at evil_eagles profile, he just broke into the 9s, but his list will give you a good idea of what is needed for your goals, also for running 10s you will need lots of power if you want to run with a full interior, and slicks set to 12-15psi is a must.

As for suspension you have many choices...ground controls, hotbits, tein's, jic's, ect, ect... the list goes on, but for sub 11.99 1320s NDRA says you need a rollcage, I would say go custom job to follow the contores of the interior, pre fabed ones that are put in all together are fine but be careful because rollcages are ment for racing purposes, and in a crash on the road without a helmet the rollcage becomes a hazard to your head.

Dustin

 

[dsmchiz]

thanks for all the posts. And thank you fourreGsixty3 you have some great info thank you for taking the time ill have to look into all that.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Oh yeah and I fgorgot the two most important things you will need...a good tune with a DSMLink, halltech, AEM EMS, ect... and lots of seat time, have seen some buddies of mine running 11s on 400hp cars(generalized for the perpose that you dont need exact hp #s), and a kid that had 1100+hp in a mustang ran 11s as well, because he just built it up, and had so seat time to practice, so the moral of this story is....it doesnt matter how much power you have because with out a good tune, and lots of seat time you wont break 12s.

Dustin

 

[dsmsucks]

Get either full Garrett turbo and a T3 or T4 manifold to match or get a Forced Performance turbo. And I'd suggest just getting forged internals on the 2.0L or go full stroker. I'm still pretty weary about the 2.1L. And I don't think you should buy the upgraded axles and driveshaft until you need them. You'd just be spending money for no reason at that point. Make sure you keep a lot of money on the side because stuff is going to break a lot. It's not if, stuff is definitely going to break.

Not trying to be a ass but I need to understand something!! What stuff would break The stuff that is listed should be able to withstand abuse. Thats the part of the reason for upgrading isnt it?
thanks
rep points

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Any time you start diving into high powered cars, stuff breaks, axles, clutches go, belts, pretty much anything on a car can breal when shooting for skt high boost and power. The driveshaft could go, the tranny could go, the read end, nothing is assured not to break.
I also agree with Derek(brute) that you shouldnt get axles or a driveshaft just yet, with proper technique OEM axles can take that power, and hell they are cheap to buy, you might lose 40$ if you break one, might as well learn technique out of the hole on stock axles so its cheaper then breaking a 500$ axle because your not use to the power and how to properly launch it. I would upgrade the driveshaft with a driveshaftshop aluminum one when the stock one breaks or is on its way out.
EDIT: Oh yeah 1 more thing...actually probably more but get cams that will compliment your set-up. I.E.:if you get a 2.3 or 2.4L stroker get a set of cams like FP 3s, with a lobe of 104*, you will pin cams that are ment for 2.0s, if you go the 2.0L route then get a set or 272s, 264/272, or 280s, I would get them from DKS they are the same as HKS but way less.

Dustin

 

[92awddsm]

Upgrade the fuel pump. You will be running the 255 on the ragged edge. If you are going all out, get an aeromotive a100 and upgrade the fuel lines also.

I also have to agree with everyone else, go full garrett. If you must keep the 7cm manifold, get a fp turbo setup. Their bolt on turbine housing flows better than most any other bolt on housing you will find.

 

[Black94DSM]

Upgrade the fuel pump. You will be running the 255 on the ragged edge. If you are going all out, get an aeromotive a100 and upgrade the fuel lines also.

I also have to agree with everyone else, go full garrett. If you must keep the 7cm manifold, get a fp turbo setup. Their bolt on turbine housing flows better than most any other bolt on housing you will find.

I know its a mistake, but you ment an Aeromotive A1000, not an A100.

 

[92awddsm]

I know its a mistake, but you ment an Aeromotive A1000, not an A100.

Yes, I meant a1000. I guess I missed that last zero. Thanks for catching that.

 

[thekellbeast]

If you want to go cheaper than the Aeromotive, I've seen custom setups with dual intake Walbro 255hp's, or one in tank and another one in line externally mounted. Two wallies is a lot cheaper than an aeromotive.

 

[666boltgsx]

hmm suggestions
Forget the SBR35R and go with a full Garrett setup with tubular manifold. Just stick with the 2.0 and have it built, Buschur is my favorite and Magnus builds good motors, I'd stay away from SBR you can do your own searching as to why. So I suggest a Buschur Stage 3 and a real GT35R turbo.

i agree stay with the 2.0block. my buddy dyno a 650awh 2g with a real gt35r and a built 2.0block.

.020 ross
272cams
crower rods
arp everything
alien auto t3 mani
and lil ods and ends

 

[dsmchiz]

Ill prob stick with the 2.0 seems like it would be quite reliable. Thanks for all the suggestions. I didnt even think of upgrading the pump again. I just assumed the wally 255 would be fine. I have looked at FP for there cams, but would it be better to run the 272's or go with the fp2x cams. There are alot of threads about that too . Lots of people on both sides that have experience with them.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Both HKS 272s and FP 2s are great cams, it all comes down to personal preference. Go looking through threads on them, and see what people say...you may want to think about comp cams 200s if sticking with a 2.0, also try a 264/272 set-up for HKSs.

Dustin

 

[JayRolla]

Why does everyone say go full garret. The mitsu housing turbos lay down some good power also and you can mount it to a stocker mani.

 

[MMM]

You do not need a Shepard Racing Stage 4 trans to get into the tens reliably if you can drive decently...

 

[fourreGsixty3]

You do not need a Shepard Racing Stage 4 trans to get into the tens reliably if you can drive decently...

Yes, but do you want things snapping under the power that is being produced? Or would you like everything to work as it should? Im sure a shep stage II or III would work fine, but whats a few hundred more dollars.

Dustin

 

[thekellbeast]

Why does everyone say go full garret. The mitsu housing turbos lay down some good power also and you can mount it to a stocker mani.

The mitsu housing is good for the mitsu turbo's, but when it comes to garrett turbo's, true garret housings are better than hybrid housings. The fact that the exhaust housing must be a "bolt on" restricts it severely. If you're going that far, just upgrade the manifold once, and do it right. Go full garrett, and you will have a much larger selection of turbos to choose from.

 

[somguywitblueye]

wow...is it really true tat dsm parts break easily once uve strarted running 12's?

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Its not just DSMs its any car with huge power and its not the times your running its the power that you are putting through it. He is looking to get 650whp, so you can see where that kind of power will break stuff.

Dustin

 

[dsmchiz]

I have been racing the car hard for 5 years and just recently started having prob with stuff breaking. Its all about how you drive the car. But when i get to the 600 awhp range I dont want to have stuff just snap under the first couple runs. I know things will break but I would definatley hope it would not be on the very first run .