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home made sheet metal intake

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Very true on the cast material. Either way baking it helps cook out some of the impureities before welding.

To an extent... That is actually why I prefer to gas weld cast seams. It's just a b!tch to do. I can gas weld pretty damn good, and pushing a pool on cast evenly over any distance requires a hell of a lot of concentration. If you go through and blow out a hole, it's worse than with wire. A dime size hole would be best case scenario if you stop the second it happens.
 
yea, i guess with no way to super heat and burn off the oils/residues and other mineral impurities home cast would be a pot metal like alloy (picturing breaking a huffy brand handbrake lever as a kid LOL )

at least i have one milled out, wish there was some way to use it to make cuttin out a few more easier or faster.

Man, i'm losing it though, I did some parts machining tonight for a customer build and by damni went and cleaned up afterwards (and then went shop cleaning crazy) and at the end forgot where i put the brand new parts i made :(

Oh well, after some sleep i'll look again LOL
 
WTF

You... LOST.... a paying project?? Damn TG... How big of a shop do you have? Am I going to be jealous? LOL

Your analogy to the Huffy hand brake is EXACTLY right. That is what most backyard scientists such as myself are dealing with. Remember, I don't have a materials margin to budget on, so I'm on scrounge duty... Scurrying like a shifty little ninja through piles of junk to get raw materials. I never know the quality of pot aluminum, so I always assume it is as weak as I have ever seen it be.
 
WTF

You... LOST.... a paying project?? Damn TG... How big of a shop do you have? Am I going to be jealous? LOL

Your analogy to the Huffy hand brake is EXACTLY right. That is what most backyard scientists such as myself are dealing with. Remember, I don't have a materials margin to budget on, so I'm on scrounge duty... Scurrying like a shifty little ninja through piles of junk to get raw materials. I never know the quality of pot aluminum, so I always assume it is as weak as I have ever seen it be.

I use to share 9500 sq/ft with my old metal supplier ( i was always there anyway and he always was contracting TIG work to me and i just moved in and payed rent through working and money combined, this was back when i was back in my marriage before i left her and had to take on all the bills myself and the doctorsmade me quit my construction business (tried to get my employees to be able to handle running it but they were always scared of high ladders and such and i'd go do the work and my physical condition finally deteriorated to where i just couldn't risk being paralyzed for a job/paycheck. Plus the owner of the metal supermarket got cancer and went on a "end of my life crisis of not paying bills buying a new corvette and more LOL he deserved it thugh, was a great guy

NOW, i have half a 2 car wide, by 1.5 deep garage and a storage unit for tools i don't use often and don'thave room for crammed in this little space..

The parts i lost were just little billet brackets to hold these fresh air tubes that are aftermarket into the '69 karmann ghia coupe i'm restoring from ground up.. Oh and a batter bar that's milled billet too
 
Because it's "text lingo" or teen style abreviation.. it's to keep this from looking like a highschool car club when people get carried away with that crap :D also You're in the form of u r is sensored and a lot of others

Found my parts :D also started a new project today, friend is building a nice CB200 (old honda motorcycle) for his woman to learn on and I couldn't see her riding old mechanical disk breaks so i decided to machine some brackets to allow the use of 4 pot, tokico radial mount calipers off a 600RR alongwith drillingand venting the OEM disk to allow gasses to escape.. it won't interfere with my SMIM build because i'm in need of materials anyway rihg tnow
 
I've heard that cylinder head aluminum is great for casting. It shouldn't be that hard to find a bad Honda block

No, they aren't hard to find... But a block IS hard to chop up small enough for my tiny homemade fire brick furnace with out the right tools. A big band saw or something like that would be needed. Aluminum fouls blades and gums up grinders so fast, you have to have the right stuff to work with it,and none of my current tools are capable of cutting up an engine block. That is an excellent suggestion for sourcing high quality stock though. :thumb:
 
No, they aren't hard to find... But a block IS hard to chop up small enough for my tiny homemade fire brick furnace with out the right tools. A big band saw or something like that would be needed. Aluminum fouls blades and gums up grinders so fast, you have to have the right stuff to work with it,and none of my current tools are capable of cutting up an engine block. That is an excellent suggestion for sourcing high quality stock though. :thumb:

That's why man invented sledge hammers :hellyeah:
 
That's why man invented sledge hammers :hellyeah:

You have a good point there. Hadn't thought of just smashing it. Probably could if you hit it on the thinest part of the cylinder wall... I may have to try that. :D

I have tweaked that initial concept drawing some, using short radius 90's at the bottom. It definently made it skinnier, and less likely to interfere with the firewall. It shortened it some also, but I also made the last forks 30 degrees instead of 45, so that added some length back on. Will post it and another idea I had soon.
 
You have a good point there. Hadn't thought of just smashing it. Probably could if you hit it on the thinest part of the cylinder wall... I may have to try that. :D

I have tweaked that initial concept drawing some, using short radius 90's at the bottom. It definently made it skinnier, and less likely to interfere with the firewall. It shortened it some also, but I also made the last forks 30 degrees instead of 45, so that added some length back on. Will post it and another idea I had soon.


Why not just use short radius U-bends? Here is what I had in mind. My paint skills aren't the greatest so no making fun LOL


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I'm no scientist, but wouldn't longer runners create more drag than short runners. Also everyone always tries to have as little IC piping as possible. Isn't this going the opposite way?
 
It is a short radius U bend, it's just easier to find 90's.

Yes and no to it going against what is said about intake length. Yes it is longer, pipe surface drag would be more because of that, but it is also increasing air velocity and potential flow volume (at least in theory) through smoothing the pathway and preventing dead space. Since I haven't seen anything like it run so far, we don't know exactly how it will behave. The longer runners and smooth, fast flow should make for more low end torque, in theory.

It is an attempt to also make the pipe itself an inline plenum.
 
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<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/1/3/0/6/8/7/intake.jpg" alt="Intake" />

Starting to compact it. Look at the dimensions and check on your car. I think that's getting closer. The 90 1.5" runner may need to be mitered back some to get an angle over the starter and compressor that will work. I'm working on getting a dimensional rendering of a complete 4g63 motor... that'd make this kind of thing easy to do quickly.

What I am worried about with this is as it compacts down to a usable size, the air flow starts favoring #1 & #2 pistons. That could be countered with an internal baffle for the most part, but at the cost of air speed and ease of fabrication.
 
No no test results yet im hoping for something soon it seems to be my biggest hurdle at the moment. Hopefully something soon. Im getting really excited with all the feedback and compliments its getting me pretty pumped up to hear something.
 
Looking at the 2g manifold and the dimensions of that drawn piece above, it's basically the same delivery, just with a smoother track... I just walked outside and looked like a weirdo with a set of calipers, goofing around under my hood, in the parking lot in front of the administration building. LOL

Sparky, would you have any problem fabricating those elipse transitions and pinching them down in the middle to match the contour of the 2 2" pipes side by side as close as possible?
 
Nope no problem making it all come together I would just need a segmented drawing of lengths of straight sections and tubing size and bend degrees.
 
Of course. You'll get a fully detailed shop drawing. It'll have full bill of materials and all the info for each piece. I'll probably do a clamshell flat plate layout for those transitions. Doing technical drawings for fabrication is what I do for a living. :D

I would like to get some physics simulating software and flow test the piece before sending it. I have a feeling I am over looking something with this simple of a design...

Did that change make it small enough to fit a 1g engine bay? I do not have 1 handy I can measure from.
 
I will take a check tomorrow after I finish up some other fab probjects im working on. As far as connecting it to the head flange I will probably weld stubs to the flange to allow for smooth transition from round to square the 1g should be interesting because of how large they are compared to the 2g
 
Should it prove worth making, I'll include bell mouth dimensional info so the end of that 90 can be cornered out some for the transition. I want it as progressive as space will allow.
 
I will take a check tomorrow after I finish up some other fab probjects im working on. As far as connecting it to the head flange I will probably weld stubs to the flange to allow for smooth transition from round to square the 1g should be interesting because of how large they are compared to the 2g

As long as I have dimensionally correct information of what size the 1g port is, i can give you detailed bend/roll angles for perfect square to round transitions. That's something I have to do quite frequently. Even the fillet isn't difficult to include. The bend lines just have to draw back to a center point longer than the actual piece and it will form a natural fillet. :sneaky:
 
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