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Home Built Active Toe Eliminators - PICS

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Kevin Doe

20+ Year Contributor
78
0
May 13, 2003
Cincinnati, Ohio
Here is a quick writeup of my homebuilt active toe eliminators. Here is what I did. I took the trailing arms off the car. I wire wheel'd off the rubber as much as I could, so it would not interfere with the welding. Cut two washers in half. Welded them in place. The washers are 3" OD - 1.25" ID. Here are some pics since everyone always wants to see pics.

Stock trailing arm end link with leftover GVR4 4 wheel steering crap.
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Rubber removed with wire wheel.
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Washer cut and welded in place with a MIG machine.
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Kevin
 
Thanks for the pictorial/writeup there Kevin. I'm doing the exact same thing, but it's pretty cold up here, so I just have to wait for a little bit of warm weather to get everything off the car first! I'd definitely be interested in hearing if you can feel any noticable difference when driving, etc. now?
 
Just installed them today. Here are some installed pics.

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I set the toe to the factory 'zero' markings, but to my eye, it looks to be toe'd in. I havn't drove it yet. I won't have an alignment done till the car gets out of the body shop (got rearended on friday). I'll reply when I get the car back and aligned. Oh, I also get some new wheels and tires, so I'll get it aligned with those on there too.

Kevin
 
I'd say they are castings, not forgings. But, no I do not think that is necessary. I welded in about 4 stages to keep the temperature of the endlink from getting too hot and melting the rubber bushings.

The weld around the endlink is non-critical compared to the weld around the trailing arm. The weld around the edge of the washers holds the arm centered, and the weld around the inside of the washer isn't really even needed. Just think about it and it will be apparent why. I did it just for the hell of it.

I guess you could heat it all with a torch to red hot, and then let is slowly cool to stress relieve it, but I don't think that is necessary.

Kevin
 
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