Holset Turbos

[Maglin]

Sure thing. I'm planning on installing this weekend if it isn't snowing out. I throw up some pics. I'm not saying it's easy. And yes the actuator needs some massaging to work but it's not that difficult. That pic you posted is basicly what I'm doing just a little cleaner (I hope). And for the guy who's wastegate arm kepts falling off ensure once you have it positioned correctly that you use some red locktite on it and you shouldn't have a problem.

Oh yeah. I didn't say it's easy nor perfect. It's a large compressor housing. Do you have an exhaust manifold spacer installed? If it's the same for me them I'll just rotate it towards the block some and get me a Elbow matted to a v-band coupler so it's easier to move the IC piping forward. Anyways. We'll see how it goes.

 

[bigtim-x]

I bought my own hx35, and then bought the bullseye housing. I had to grind the lip down alittle bite, worked fine. No popping off yet.Made a custom filter today. I noticed an increase in performance.

 

[defrag010]

I'm not trying to be nice, I'm trying to figure out why nobody put any thought into this piece before they decided to sell it, and make sure people know what they are getting into before they buy it. What exactly can you tell us about the mutts?

I'm not going to have my car down so you can fix something you shouldn't have let go past whatever quality control you have.

Like I said before, I'm not paying that much for a turbo that nobody has any info on but you. Who else could have info? Well I could, if I ever get the damn thing on. Anyone who has one could. Has no one privately bought one of these and dyno'd their car? Plenty of people have dyno info for Greens besides Forced Performance. That's because they WORK, and that makes people a bit more willing to pay the money for them, and then they can take them to the dyno.

What would be the point of buying your HOUSING and then buying a TURBO to go along with it? If the housing doesn't work, DON'T SELL IT. Sell the complete turbos all day long if they work as advertised (again, yet to be seen.)

wow, what the #### are you expecting here? Bullseye is just selling a turbine housing that will allot a turbo from a Cummins diesel truck to be bolted to our manifold. Do you honestly think that a turbo from a completely different application is going to bolt on and just fit? Use some common sense, buddy.

The reason no one else has dyno numbers is because we are cheap asses and only a handful of people actually have these turbos. What do you expect? The Holset/DSM process is just getting started, you gotta give it some time to see some results. Forced performance has the reputation for making good turbos, which is why people will buy turbos from them when they don't even know the damn specs for the thing. For a company that won't tell you the specs on their turbos, they sure sell alot. I bet if FP came out with a new "Secret" turbo, and only had One of their cars dyno 500 whp one single time, there would be tons of DSM people buying that turbo from them without even knowing what it is. Last time I checked, Bullseye performance Wasn't Forced performance, so I don't see why you are throwing the hissy fit and expecting the same thing.

Just use some common sense, everyone else who is putting holset turbos on thier DSM's have realized that it is a DIY project and will take some fab work. Give it time and more people will be putting down solid dyno numbers. Everything that has needed to be known about these turbos (compressor maps, specs, DYNO numbers, etc) has been said in this thread.

Personally, I'd rather buy a turbo for 100$, a housing for 220$, make my own feed/return lines and actuator mount, and have a big ass turbo rather than spending 1000$ for one that I can just bolt on and get the same results.

 

[monotalonawd]

All that talk about the fitment problems... I'm not so sure about my Holset project now!

At least, does the Bullseye exhaust housing clear the engine block with a 2g exh. manifold? I don't want to use a spacer and have another source of potential leak! As for the rest (comp. housing clocking, oil fittings, downpipe), I can live with that.

Bigtim-x, do you use an exhaust manifold spacer? I suppose it's a 2g manifold that we see pictured!

 

[starion87]

I've been reading this post faithfully, and was part of the reason I desided to go with the Holset turbo. I've been impressed with the turbo on the 2.0's and Ford 2.3's

I am running a hy-35 on my Mitsu Starion, 2.6L. I thought I would tell you all about it, even though I'm not on a 2.0L.

Like has been said, it's a DIY deal. Also as defrag010 stated, I too rather spend a lot less $$ for a DIY setup! Infact you can make a header for less $$ than $220, for those of you who have the tools.

For my setup, I made a header for my car. The stock manifold wasn't cutting it and it wasn't setup for a t3 flange. My total cost are less than $100 for a nice header, including downpipe, bung and flanges.

I don't have dyno numbers, nor will I for awhile. I just finished getting the setup on the car this week and have about 40 miles on it. Our long stroke 2.6's aren't usually high HP cars, but they are high torque cars. I'm running it on my stock (crappy) TBI setup, just to see how it is. I have a multiport to go on, with a MegaSquirt. On the TBI, it's impressive considering how restrictive the TBI setup is. I have the MBC set to 12psi and I see 12psi between 2800-2900rpms. I'm sure the MPI will lower that too. I went with the hy-35 instead of the hx-35, because I figured the smaller housing would spool better. I'm going to swap out springs in my MBC, I have a soft in now. I noticed the stiffer sping help spool up alot better on the old 12a turbo. I will let the MS control boost once I get it installed. This turbo barely has lag on my car. It's comparible to the small 320cfm 12a for spoolup, yet its so much bigger.

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This was not a job for your average DIY'r either. It took alot of work to make it work, but well worth it. I'm excited to get to the point with the MPI where I can start running atleast 20psi or more.

Shawn

 

[joeym4130]

BRAVO on the Starion Shawn! Very nice

Did you know you can remove that silencer on the Holset housing? I just found that out, over on the dodge forums, if you didn't know, ( i have a feeling you did though haha) It sounds louder, and i'm a dork for loud turbos....I smile everytime I hear a Ram .. PSHHHHHHHHHH


I have a HX-35 for my car, that I'm working on....won't start that until this summer... and I'm waiting hopefully to see that others have gotten them comfortable in the engine bay, without mangling the water pipe. I wonder what the SBR mani + a spacer would do.. I don't know how thick the SBR manifold is, if that would space it out too much.. I cant wait to try though

 

[starion87]

BRAVO on the Starion Shawn! Very nice

Did you know you can remove that silencer on the Holset housing? I just found that out, over on the dodge forums, if you didn't know, ( i have a feeling you did though haha) It sounds louder, and i'm a dork for loud turbos....I smile everytime I hear a Ram .. PSHHHHHHHHHH

Thanks, I'm really impressed with it for sure! Yes, I had it out when the turbo wasn't on the car. Then I put it back on. I drove it a little yesterday and the day before with it on. So this morning right before work, I pulled out the snap ring and took it out. It sounds way better. My 12a actully was loud being a small turbo. The Holset is nice and loud now with the ring in. I love the sound of the turbo!

Thanks man,

Shawn

 

[boxer]

ok just a few questions, as I have been reading this thread like a harry potter book for the last few hours, and now have devoured it all, happy that it is still alive and well. Thank you for all those who have contributed much information, and helped in the evolution of the performance world.

joeym4130- what is the silencer you are talking about?

David from Bullsey(or anyone else)- can i get a list of part numbers that contain the ported shrowd? or map width enhancement as holset calls it?

and also, maybe it would be a good idea for someone to make a post with ACTUAL facts and experiences they have encountered such as,

1. what modifications were needed to get the turbo in the car and totally running?
2. performance as well as spool up
3. part number and housings used
4. source of turbo (where it was purchased)
5. for how much $

and maybe whatever else you feel like telling us about the turbo.

The thing is, with this thread, it has LOTS ofinformation, but also lots of speculation, and having just read it all Im not sure what is or isnt true about it.

and the last thing is, to that one guy who said that he was running 35 psi, on pump, how could you have escaped unscathed for saying that you ran cali piss pump 91 and 35 psi boost with no knock? Is that what you were infact claiming?

 

[joeym4130]

The silencer is the little ring that covers up the 'Map width enhancement' grooves

this is how it looks when it's in:

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And then removed.

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Some people have gotten confused thinking these are two different compressor housings.

 

[boxer]

very interesting thanks for the quick reply. ive heard the ported shrouds, or MWE make for slower spool but flow more efficiently.

I am going to be putting oen of these turbos on my 2.4 liter WRX. Im undecided between the hy35 and HX with the bullsey housing. Also, Might want to try the 40 in the future, but not till i know the 35s will actually spool. You see, and not to thread jack, but the WRX has a hrd time spooling turbos due to short stroke/slow piston speed, really long header runners, and a poor flowing head design. We spool a stage 3 .63 a/r housing at about 5000-5300 RPMs where as you guys would see full boost alot sooner. Anyways, I have more displacement, compression, head flow, ported headers ect, in order to get that thing to spool. I saw full boost with this set up on a P trim t62-1 at about 5500 in second gear. Has anyone on here had any experience with P trim turbine wheels? I was using a .58 a/r housing. Anyways, maybe someone still subscribing to this thread can give some insight.???

Thanks!

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

and also, maybe it would be a good idea for someone to make a post with ACTUAL facts and experiences they have encountered such as,

1. what modifications were needed to get the turbo in the car and totally running?
2. performance as well as spool up
3. part number and housings used
4. source of turbo (where it was purchased)
5. for how much $

Those things are usually done by the vendor. However.... well, this is where I bow out.

and the last thing is, to that one guy who said that he was running 35 psi, on pump, how could you have escaped unscathed for saying that you ran cali piss pump 91 and 35 psi boost with no knock? Is that what you were infact claiming?

It might be possible to run that much boost, on pump gas, if you dropped your timing down to nothing, and ran some sort of water/alky injection.

 

[starion87]

and also, maybe it would be a good idea for someone to make a post with ACTUAL facts and experiences they have encountered such as,

1. what modifications were needed to get the turbo in the car and totally running?
2. performance as well as spool up
3. part number and housings used
4. source of turbo (where it was purchased)
5. for how much $

OK, I can answer some of these, even though I'm not running it on a DSM.

1. Mine was differnt than the DSM guys
2. I'm on a TBI, soon to be MPI on my Starion, with a HY-35. Spoolup is great, I'm seeing 12psi by 2800rpms. I'm sure I would see more if I cranked up the boost. I'm a little afraid to as of now on my setup. Once the MPI is on, it will be different. I deffinately notice more power on this turbo at less boost than my old 12a turbo.
3. Mine was straight off a cummings diesel. It was off a 2002 and was hy-35.
4. Off a diesel forum, but I lost the link.
5. $180 plus shipping....well worth it! Cheaper than some "lesser" turbos.

Shawn

 

[hellotbone]

Being really big into the diesel trucks myself these guys make the best HX40 out there able to stand 40 PSI and spool like a HY35. The B1 Bomber is what I run on my truck at 60 PSI is hauls some air.

http://www.piersdiesel.com/DodgeTurbos.htm

 

[MattGVR4]

wow, what the #### are you expecting here? Bullseye is just selling a turbine housing that will allot a turbo from a Cummins diesel truck to be bolted to our manifold. Do you honestly think that a turbo from a completely different application is going to bolt on and just fit? Use some common sense, buddy.

The reason no one else has dyno numbers is because we are cheap asses and only a handful of people actually have these turbos. What do you expect? The Holset/DSM process is just getting started, you gotta give it some time to see some results. Forced performance has the reputation for making good turbos, which is why people will buy turbos from them when they don't even know the damn specs for the thing. For a company that won't tell you the specs on their turbos, they sure sell alot. I bet if FP came out with a new "Secret" turbo, and only had One of their cars dyno 500 whp one single time, there would be tons of DSM people buying that turbo from them without even knowing what it is. Last time I checked, Bullseye performance Wasn't Forced performance, so I don't see why you are throwing the hissy fit and expecting the same thing.

Just use some common sense, everyone else who is putting holset turbos on thier DSM's have realized that it is a DIY project and will take some fab work. Give it time and more people will be putting down solid dyno numbers. Everything that has needed to be known about these turbos (compressor maps, specs, DYNO numbers, etc) has been said in this thread.

Personally, I'd rather buy a turbo for 100$, a housing for 220$, make my own feed/return lines and actuator mount, and have a big ass turbo rather than spending 1000$ for one that I can just bolt on and get the same results.

It's not nearly as people are thinking it is. That's a problem. (A problem if you want to keep customers coming back, I guess you could just change your business name). I can't count the number of people around here who want to do this and are planning to purchase the housing, but there's no way in hell 80% of them could get one of these to work on their car without extensive help. It would be far from worth their time and money paying somone to modify it to work correctly. It's not that it needs major modification. It's that people think it doesn't. The item is not what people think it is. I don't care what I have to do, just don't sell it as something other than it is.

As far as a bolt on CTD turbo, here's a comment straight from the guy who is selling them: "Where does is say that you could buy our housing and a stock Holset turbo from a Dodge Cummins Diesel pickup truck is going to just mount up without any additional modifications or adjustments?"

The point is that these things aren't proven, the housings have a major issue, and people need to understand what they are buying before they do it. A little more time "engineering" could have made this housing a lot better.

 

[MattGVR4]

I'll answer questions here to keep posts semi on topic.

The housing bolts up fine and needs no work to fit the manifold/block. I have heard of the older housings making you slot your O2 sensor housing to get the bolts in.

The water pipe will need extensive bashing if you point the outlet up, which is neccesary in my case.

I paid $130 for my housing and $150 for my HX35, off a 2002 6 speed Dodge Cummins pickup. Late model automatic Dodge turbos are HYs.

I used a stock Dodge actuator, but had to weld a bracket onto the compressor housing and cut and weld the actuator arm as shown in a previous pic.

I am taking oil off the head with a -4 line.

I have a brass 45 degree hose barb in the bottom of the turbo center section (which I tapped 1/2" NPT) to get the oil line away from the motor mount. The barb needed to be ground to get the turbo in the car. I have a piece of 5/8" hose between that and a cut stock 1G oil drain line.

I didn't do any specific tests, but I get 10 pounds somewhere between 4000 and 4500rpm in 5th. I was running 26ish pounds the other day (some race gas and methanol in the tank) with no knock (only 10ish degrees of timing) and it seemed to pull pretty damn hard, but again no numbers yet. I can easily hit fuel cut with stock fuel pressure and 550s tuned for 5-10 counts of knock on pump gas at 19 psi. I will be going to the track hopefully this weekend to see what I can get out of it.

 

[unlikely hero]

I'll answer questions here to keep posts semi on topic.

The water pipe will need extensive bashing if you point the outlet up, which is neccesary in my case.

You'll need to bash the waterpipe either way. My SBR manifold helped but still had to bash it with the outlet down.
=Jason-

 

[MattGVR4]

By extensively I mean to the point of bending it so much that not much water can flow through (not a big deal IMHO), but to the point where you might crack the pipe because the whole thing (the part that goes back toward the heater core starts bending in, and bending it back may cause it to crack.

 

[monotalonawd]

I'll answer questions here to keep posts semi on topic.

The housing bolts up fine and needs no work to fit the manifold/block.

Thanks a lot, MattGVR4! That's what I needed to know.

 

[joeracer321]

By extensively I mean to the point of bending it so much that not much water can flow through (not a big deal IMHO), but to the point where you might crack the pipe because the whole thing (the part that goes back toward the heater core starts bending in, and bending it back may cause it to crack.

That is false, if you look at pictures that I posted earlier in the thread, the install was a tight fit but I only needed to "dimple" the water pipe ever so slightly to get the compressor cover to fit, this is with a tubular header which locates the turbo in the stock location. Hope that helps for the rest of you guys looking into the Holset turbos.

 

[DJpHGotBanned]

I've seens some "stock location" turbo manifolds before that are close but not perfect. Maybe that's your case? I dont question it at all and you very well might have a very well made manifold, but I thought I'd throw it out for discussion.

My real question is this. Have any of you had trouble finding the shroud ported HX35s? I look on ebay all the time and the years look correct and everything but the inlets have the 3 support legs running from the outter to the inner inlet, but dont look ported through.. or there is another where there is a tiny dark gap, but you cant see the 3 supports.

Examples:
The unported inlet

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(from bullseye)

The dark gapped inlet
1996 Dodge Ram 2500. Engine was 5.9L
ASSY: 3534919
SERIAL: c0697875
CUST: 3534920-0-12/5
MODEL: HX35W

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(from ebay)

I could be looking a the totally wrong thing. This is what I'm looking for:

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(from Bullseye)

 

[aero_sallee]

The ebay one has the silencer ring installed. You just need to remove the snap ring and pull the ring out, the MWE groove is under there. The other one has the port in there also. Its just a small groove at the bottom of the port there. You can barely see it in the first picture.

 

[joeracer321]

For those interested in a Hybrid Holset check this out.

 

[MattGVR4]

That is false, if you look at pictures that I posted earlier in the thread, the install was a tight fit but I only needed to "dimple" the water pipe ever so slightly to get the compressor cover to fit, this is with a tubular header which locates the turbo in the stock location. Hope that helps for the rest of you guys looking into the Holset turbos.

I wouldn't post it if it were BS, but thanks for trying

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That hardly looks like a "dimple" to me.

This is an HX35 from a later Dodge (which many of you have or are intending to get) on a GVR4. The late Dodges have the wastegate actuator on the compressor housing, the older ones off the exhaust housing. The compressor MUST point up on this car. The wastegate mounting tabs must be ground off as well as you can see.

That said, my turbo is for sale. Complete with -4 AN oil feed line, oil drain line, compressor outlet (needed for these turbos), internal gate, as you see it setup in the pics. I could even throw in the already modified water pipe. All the bugs worked out, works flawlessly. Ready to bolt on and drive, no other parts needed. Ran 107mph on pump gas in my heavy Galant. $750.

 

[joeracer321]

I wouldn't post it if it were BS, but thanks for trying

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That hardly looks like a "dimple" to me.

This is an HX35 from a later Dodge (which many of you have or are intending to get because they are $150 on diesel classifieds boards) on a GVR4. The late Dodges have the wastegate actuator on the compressor housing, the older ones off the exhaust housing. The compressor MUST point up on this car. The wastegate mounting tabs must be ground off as well as you can see.

Since you seem to have your turbo mounted and clocked in a unique position, this could be causing the interference with the water pipe. For those that use the Bullseye Power Holset turbo that I carry, you should not have much if any interference.

 

[MattGVR4]

May want to make sure yours works on a GVR4, it says on your site that it will.