Holset HX35 on my SR20.....

[dsm-onster]

That would put you at about 3800rpms with the .63 a/r housing with the gt2871r. Some 4g63 guys report that spool speed with the fp3052 which is a gt30r with the large a/r fp turbine housing. Your cams could be a bit more aggressive than the typical 272-style upgrade cams to which us dsm guys are accustomed. Or your longblock could have less VE at spool rpms than the 4g63.

I have the compressor off and would like some advice on removing and clocking the turbine housing? I have seen people saying it can be a pain. Using PB blaster, rubber mallet, and even a chisel. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

I had to use a chisel too. And a prybar as a chisel. The only advice is not to do too much on one side. A turbo has very close tolerances and you can have the turbine housing bind against the turbine wheel and bend/chip a blade or bend the shaft if you pry it off crooked.

 

[Ceddy]

I have the compressor off and would like some advice on removing and clocking the turbine housing? I have seen people saying it can be a pain. Using PB blaster, rubber mallet, and even a chisel. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151516935-post701.html

Easiest way to get the turbine housing off without damaging anything.

 

[dsm-onster]

I completely forgot about that method! I even book marked it in my holset stuff .

 

[rampridersrider]

I bought the same downpipe flange for mine as well. From the same guy too. Cept without the set screw to hold the flapper shut as mine is just getting welded shut.

 

[SR20drag]

I don't think the SR head flows as good as the 4g63. I know the SR flows 220cfm stock compared to 260cfm for a stock B18 Honda. Any idea what a 4g63 flows. Also another variable to consider is the T2 flange on the GT2871 is no where near the size of the mitsu exhaust flange. I have been told that a ported 2G manifold flows about like a T3 tubular on the SR? I know my megan T2 tubular was very restrictive on my SR, even with the .86 housing the manifold was the bottleneck.

 

[dsm-onster]

I don't think the hole on the manifold outlet and turbine inlet has much to do with the flow. You want to keep velocity up and unless there's an increase in area from the inlet to further into the scroll, I doubt you'll see much difference swapping flanges, if it were possible.

And "ain't no way" the stock dsm manifold flows anywhere near as much as a tubular. Unless your only options are manifolds with VERY poorly designed collectors and an overabundance of bends (more than a typical tubular dsm manifold.

Flow number comparisions only count when you're swapping between heads on the same bench and with the same flowbench user. With that said, the 4g63 head does seam to flow very well, comparable to honda heads for the most part. But they come from the factory with TERRIBLE cam profiles and AWEFUL piston shape. The 4g63 could get away with much higher compression of the pistons were simply designed like a honda piston with more squish zone.

 

[SR20drag]

Question... Torque specs for the HX35 CHRA to turbine housing bolts??? I used the longer bolts from the turbine outlet and 2 deep well 1/4" drive sockets to "lift" the CHRA from the housing and it worked great. No lube and about 30 minutes being careful not to wedge the shaft and it came right out. Thanx for the idea. Now that I have it clocked for my top mount SR setup I need the torque specs for reassembly.

Also, you suggested rounding the divider on the turbine inlet and radius the edges out to a T3 gasket for a smooth transition into the housing. No on the knife edge, correct.

I removed all my old GT2871 setup today and I'm ready for my manifold which should be here tomorrow. I have all my parts except for the fab work on my hot pipe and down pipe. I think I will get to do a couple weeks of street tuning in February before I go on the Dyno the 1st week of March.

 

[dsm-onster]

Question... Torque specs for the HX35 CHRA to turbine housing bolts???

Holset Torque Specs

Also, you suggested rounding the divider on the turbine inlet and radius the edges out to a T3 gasket for a smooth transition into the housing. No on the knife edge, correct.

I recommend flat out porting the edges. Don't cut too far into the reccesses for the inlet bolts. And I recommend radiusing (rounding) the divider. Knife edging actually creates turbulance because it causes the fluid to shear and a difference in striking angle (which may be just from a difference in volume flow over the edge) give an inconsistant velocity. Eddies can develop. Radiusing gives the fluid a smooth path to travel no matter the angle of incidence.

 

[Morphius]

I have been reading the holset tech threads for 3 weeks and I must say I have gotten the majority of my useful info from you and morphius.

Well, about the only credit I can take is being the one that kept the threads organized. DSM-onster has done an awesome job, as well as a good number of others here in the community on continueing to contribute and help make the threads what they are. Credit is given where credit is due. The http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...-results-only-complete-installed-systems.html thread is the most condensed with just core info that has been unearthed. Along with individual posts by members here that have installed complete systems and some dyno or data logs to share results.

Best of luck in your adventure. Let us know how it pans out.

 

[SR20drag]

Got my turbo clocked, 12cm2 housing ported and divider radiused, and mounted to the manifold for mock up of my down pipe. It is VERY close to my BMC and I will have to go with a 2.5" down pipe. It should be fine with the external gate. It will go back to 3" after about 18". I don't see anything else being a problem YET. It clears the hood and fits pretty good. Here are some pics of the mock up on my SR....

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[Talon2139]

WoW! My cousin has a S13 coupe (92?) with the SR swap, and you have his dream engine! Great work, and +1 on the engine bay!

 

[dsm-onster]

Nice dent

I'm ticked for you.

 

[SR20drag]

Yeah it sucks, but at least the compressor inlet will cover it up. Notice how I turned the v band compressor outlet down on a belt sander to 2.5", leaving a little lip for seal. I also ported the turbine like you suggested. Thanx for the tip.

 

[SR20drag]

I have my car at my buddies exhaust shop and we will be welding up the DP and my o2 bung tomorrow and I will be firing up my build. All I'm waiting on is a turbine heat blanket(the picture will show you why) and installing my new intake manifold and I will be ready for the dyno this weekend. I am a little worried about the flow potential of my log manifold, but if i don't get the results i want(425-450whp <28psi on 110) I will go peak boost equal length mani with my 12cm2 housing and I should be good. I think my only weak link is the cheap log. Everything else in my build is ready. I ran high 11's@116 with 345whp on a GT2871R so I should be a little faster with about 100 more whp in my 2600lb S13!!! Here are some pics of my setup up to this point......

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This is why I need the heat blanket and DEI wrap for the DP!!

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This is my new ISIS intake mani that will be going on this weekend to help handle the extra flow of the HX35

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If I get the intake on during the week I will be on the dyno this Friday. If not it will be next week on the dyno. Until then I will be getting a feel for it at 13psi(they sent me a .9bar spring)

 

[dsm-onster]

Beautiful!

You're log manifold with the 12cm^2 turbine housing should actually flow more than the 12cm^2 housing with a divided runner manifold meant to isolate the pulses. If you need more flow, you're best bet would be a tubular manifold (non-divided runner design) with the 12cm^2 hosuing. Or if you want a twinscroll/divided-runner setup. Get an 18cm^2 turbine housing from a blown hoslet h1c and use that turbine housing. The pulses will see VERY small volutes when they see each side individually if you use the 12cm^2 housing and divided the runners.

 

[need2boostpsi]

if he is using an undivided T3 with his holset, wouldn't it be wise to port the 12^cm housing to a knife edge in the middle of the T4 inlet, or would that be a waste of time?

 

[dsm-onster]

You mean t3 right?

Yes. I'm sure I already mentioned to radius the divider. Knife-edging doesn't help flow as much an takes more time to do.

Knife-edging encourages eddies after the flow division: the principle used by the karmen vortex mass flow sensor us mitsu guys have. Airflow can't actually curl around except at VERY high velocity, but it does cause more scrubbing on the inside surface of the housing on the divider; which is a loss. And as well at different velocities, you'll see DRASTICALLY different scrubbing losses on one side or the other. Since airflow likes to travel the path of least resistance, this makes the aiflow quite unstable across the division and overall flow is reduced.

PTE sells a turbo-manifold gasket that has a radiused divider molded into it so that save the housing from ruining it if later you want a true divided runner setup down the road.

 

[need2boostpsi]

You mean t3 right?

Yes. I'm sure I already mentioned to radius the divider. Knife-edging doesn't help flow as much an takes more time to do.

Knife-edging encourages eddies after the flow division: the principle used by the karmen vortex mass flow sensor us mitsu guys have. Airflow can't actually curl around except at VERY high velocity, but it does cause more scrubbing on the inside surface of the housing on the divider; which is a loss. And as well at different velocities, you'll see DRASTICALLY different scrubbing losses on one side or the other. Since airflow likes to travel the path of least resistance, this makes the aiflow quite unstable across the division and overall flow is reduced.

PTE sells a turbo-manifold gasket that has a radiused divider molded into it so that save the housing from ruining it if later you want a true divided runner setup down the road.

I see,
well i have installed a Direct Mitsu bolt-on hx35 7-blade, i plan on going with the 12^cm housing for alll out flow while still having some sanity. the bolt on housing spools almost to easy for me, just barely getting into the gas i can hit full boost then my EWG comes open and it's loud. and yes i meant t3, it's to early for me.

 

[dsm-onster]

You're not the first I've heard say the bolton hx35 spool actually too fast. Surprisingly that same turbo I've seen log 47lb/min at 28psi by 6500rpms with stock cams, stock 2.0L, stock intake and exhaust manifolds over on the link forums.

 

[Morphius]

This is why I need the heat blanket and DEI wrap for the DP!!

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Speaking from experience having done extensive thermal testing at an OEM with hyrdualic clutch systems and working with the fuel guys, you WILL need more than a thermal blanket and wrap for your exhaust. Your brake lines will be boiling. By the looks of the clearance, I'd put a guestimate that your lines will be running in the 600-800 degree range. I'd stongly suggest you put some sort of aluminum heat shield to protect you booster/brake system.

That stainless braided line... is that coolant? You're going to need something there too.

Overall, pretty cool.

 

[SR20drag]

I got it running today and it is going to be a beast!!! I have one problem. I must have my WG vacuum wrong because it is over boosting and the WG isn't opening at all. I have a .9bar(13psi) spring and I did a 3rd gear pull and it climbed to well past 20psi and PULLED LIKE A TRAIN!! It definately spools quicker than my old GT2871R with the .86 ar housing. I know that sounds impossible but trust me it does. I only pulled past 15psi at half throttle in 3rd 3-4 times and brought it home to figure out my WG problems. I have the pressure source on the compressor outlet going to the side port on the tial WG and the top port on the WG open to the air. From this diagram http://www.tialmedia.com/documents/w3_tial_wginstall.pdf that is the way I understood it. Please let me know what I did wrong. This is my first external gate so please be easy on the noob. Morphius, I will be making an aluminum shield at work before I go to the dyno this weekend. Thanks for the help. I'm doing everything I can to keep the heat down on my braking system. Here are some pice of the DP and my heat blanket and wrap job.

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The braided line is the oil return from my PCV system. The other line goes to my catch can.

 

[UGOT8UP]

That is a bad ass setup I need to get my ass in gear and get mine installed and ship dsm-onster his, I'll get it to ya....be patient with me.

 

[SR20drag]

This was the source of my over boosting. Have any of you holset guys ever seen anything like this? I assume it was used to run 35-40psi on the truck this turbo came off of.

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[toofast82]

Correct, that's look like the fittings they sell for the compressor housings to increase the boost for the trucks
Can you give us insight as to what rpm its spooling for you,etc?

 

[dsm-onster]

Thanx for your follow up SR20 guy . I always like to see someones direct comparison impression of any turbo. Afterall in the end, we do all this work for how it feels.

That is a bad ass setup I need to get my ass in gear and get mine installed and ship dsm-onster his, I'll get it to ya....be patient with me.

What! get moving! I need something to swap to after I max out the big h1c.